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Fruits  and  Vegetables 

UNDER  GLASS 


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FRUITS  AND  VEGETABLES 
UNDER  GLASS 


WILLIAM  TURNER 


FRUITS  AND  VEGETABLES 
UNDER  GLASS 


APPLES,  APRICOTS,    CHERRIES,    FIGS,    GRAPES, 

MELONS,    PEACHES   AND    NECTARINES, 

PEARS,  PINEAPPLES,  PLUMS, 

STRAWBERRIES 


ASPARAGUS,  BEANS,  BEETS,  CARROTS,  CHICORY, 

CAULIFLOWERS,  CUCUMBERS,  LETTUCE, 

xMUSHROOMS,  RADISHES,  RHUBARB, 

SEA   KALE,   TOMATOES 


By 
WILLIAM    TURNER 


1912 
A.  T.  DE  LA  MARE  PRINTING  AND  PUBLISHING  COMPANY 


Copyright,  1912,  by 

A.  T.  De  L,\  Mare  Ptg.  &  Pub.  Co.,  Ltd. 

New  York 

All  rights  reserved 


FORE\\ORD 


FOREWORD 


A  FEW  years  ago  I  contributed  some  articles  on  fruit  culture  under  glass 
to  The  Florists'  Exchange.  These  were  very  favorably  received,  and 
it  was  even  suggested  to  me  that  I  should  collect  all  my  material  on 
this  subject  and  put  it  into  book  form.  But  at  that  time  I  realized  that  I  still 
lacked  experience  in  many  of  the  details  of  that  pursuit  which  were  absolutely 
necessary  to  the  successful  culture  of  the  several  fruits  it  is  possible  and  profitable 
to  raise  under  glass. 

The  encouragement  I  then  received  has,  however,  induced  me  at  this  later 
time,  and  after  more  extended  experience,  to  now  attempt  to  carry  out  an  under- 
taking which,  even  well  into  its  beginning,  seemed  a  Herculean  task.  But,  strange 
to  say,  as  I  began  to  make  progress  the  more  deeply  I  became  interested.  It 
was  to  me  a  relaxation  from  other  duties,  and  I  have  found  the  preparation  of 
the  subject  matter  very  companionable.  Progress  has  been  slow,  as  the  writing 
could  be  done  at  night  only,  after  the  more  pressing  duties  of  the  day  had  received 
attention. 

There  are  many  well-known  fruit  growers  throughout  this  country  who 
raise  excellent  crops  and  who  are  thoroughly  familiar  with  the  art  of  bringing 
fruit  under  glass  to  the  highest  state  of  perfection;  such  men  need  no  instruc- 
tion from  me.  My  sole  motive  in  publishing  this  work  is  to  give  information 
to  the  less  fortunate  of  my  brethren,  those  who  have  not  had  the  opportunity 
to  learn  all  the  details  necessary  to  the  successful  cultivation  of  all  kinds  ot 
indoor  fruit. 

If  this  book  will  prove  of  assistance  to  the  inexperienced  and  to  the  be- 
ginner to  the  extent  of  imparting  new  life  and  energy  to  this  important  branch 
of  our  profession,  I  shall  feel  repaid  a  hundredfold  for  the  time  and  labor  it  has 
cost  me.  I  know  there  is  a  great  and  growing  field  for  this  work,  and  I  would 
say  to  all  gardeners  (young  and  old),  located  in  establishments  where  there  is 
glass  to  any  extent  but  no  fruit:  Introduce  some  pot  fruit,  but  grow  It  well;  it 
may  be  the  means  of  adding  a  fruit  range  to  the  establishment.  There  is  no 
better  spender  in  the  world  than  the  American  employer,  provided  that  returns 
are  in  sight,  namely,  fruit  of  a  higher  grade  than  can  be  produced  or  obtained 
in  the  open  market. 

I  have  endeavored  to  discard  theory  and  to  give  nothing  but  solid  facts 
and  information  which,  I  may  say,  it  has  taken  me  many  years  of  close  experi- 
ence to  collect  and  apply.  But  I  now  feel  sure  of  my  ground — for  the  greater 
part  of  mv  life  has  been  spent  among  hothouse  fruit.     I  do  not  take  any  credit  to 

71765 


12  FRUITS  AND  VEGETABLES  UNDER  GLASS 

myself  for  whatever  knowledge  I  may  have  gained  in  the  course  of  this  pursuit; 
rather  would  I  call  it  my  good  fortune  to  liave  i:)een  kept  in  close  touch  witii 
fruit  forcing  for  so  many  years. 

It  has  also  been  my  privilege  to  work  under  liberal  employers.  This  lias 
been  of  great  advantage  in  enabling  me  to  gain  valuable  information  in  the 
way  of  testing  many  new  fruits  which  have  been  brought  to  my  notice. 

I  have  tried  to  present  all  my  facts  in  such  a  way  that  those  who  follow 
closely  the  methods  here  detailed,  and  which  I  have  found  successful,  can  achieve 
similar  results. 

Do  not  hesitate  on  the  plea  of  inexperience.  Plunge  fearlessly  (using  your 
good  common  sense,  be  it  understood)  mto  this  new  line  of  work  and  success 
will  follow.  Growing  fruits  and  vegetables  out  of  season  is  a  fascinating  occupa- 
tion, and  time  flies  all  too  fast  when  we  become  interested  in  that  pursuit. 

I  have  been  waiting  for  several  years  in  the  hope  that  some  man  better 
qualified  than  I  am  would  come  forward  to  discuss  this  important  subject  with 
a  more  fluent  pen.  It  will  be  noticed  that  my  method  of  culture  varies  slightly 
from  that  recommended  by  European  writers  on  the  subject,  particularly  during 
the  Summer,  when  it  is  advisable  to  give  more  air  to  the  plants,  especially  when 
dispensing  with  artificial  heat,  for  at  this  season  too  close  an  atmosphere  en- 
courages mildew  and  kindred  diseases.  I  have  endeavored  to  explain  all  details 
so  far  as  my  knowledge  and  experience  enabled  me  to  do  so. 

My  aim  from  beginning  to  end  has  been  to  present  cultural  information 
so  plainly  that  any  grower  may,  without  previous  experience,  follow  m\  in- 
structions with  an  assurance  of  reasonable  success.  I  also  extend  my  sincere 
thanks  to  the  Lord  &  Burnham  Company  for  courtesies  shown  in  furnishing 
me  with  diagrams  for  fruithouse  construction,  etc.,  also  for  the  photograph  of 
pot  Grape  vine  in  fruit,  which  I  appreciate  highly.  The  other  photographs 
I  myself  have  taken.  And  last,  but  not  least,  my  thanks  and  sincere  appre- 
ciation are  due  to  A.  T.  De  La  Mare,  president  of  the  A.  T.  De  La  Mare  Printing 
and  Publishing  Company,  Ltd.,  for  his  kindly  assistance  in  bringing  my  manu- 
script   into   presentable    form. 

WM.  TURNLR. 
Oceanic,  N.  J.,  1912. 


[Situated  similarly  to  Mr.  Turner,  and  in  the  midst  of  more  than  ordinarily 
pressing  duties,  some  delay  since  the  receipt  of  Mr.  Turner's  manuscript  has 
been  occasioned  in  the  presentation  of  this  book,  for  which  I  hereby  offer  my 
apologies.  Advantage  was  taken  of  a  recent  vacation,  made  necessary  as  a 
respite  from  overwork,  to  take  up  the  preparation  of  Mr.  Turner's  manuscript. 
It  has  been  a  pleasant  and  a  fascinating  task,  with  my  thoughts  constantly 
dwelling  on  the  author's  juicy,  luscious  fruits. — A.  T.   D.] 


CONTENTS 


FRUITS  UNDER  GLASS 


Chapter 
I 
II 
III 
IV 
V 
VI 
VII 

vin 

IX 

X 

XI 

XII 

XIII 

XIV 

XV 

XVI 

XVII 

XVIII 

XIX 

XX 

XXI 

XXII 

XXIII 

XXIV 

XXV 

XXVI 

XXVII 

XXVIII 

XXIX 

XXX 


Page 

History  of  the  Grape  Vine 17 

Houses  Best  Adapted  for  Growing  Grapes 20 

The  Various  Systems  of  Propagation 22 

Vine  Borders 29 

Cultural  Directions 37 

Planting  Young  Vines 43 

Methods  of  Pruning  the  Vine 4^ 

Disbudding,  Pinching  or  Stopping  the  Shoots,  Setting  the  Fruit 53 


Grape  Thinning 59 

Commercial  Grape  Culture 65 

Varieties  of  Grapes  Best  Adapted  for  Early  and  Late  Use 67 

Insects  and  Diseases 74 

Keeping  Qualities  of  Grapes — Storing,  Packing,  Exhibition So 

Grape  Vines  Cultivated  in  Pots 85 

Peaches  and  Nectarines 91 

Thinning  the  Fruit,  Gathering  the  Peaches  and  Nectarines  When  Ripe 107 

Diseases  and  Insect  Pests  That  Affect  Peaches  and  Nectarines 

Selection  of  Varieties  for  Forcing  Purposes 

Pot  Fruit  Culture  and  Its  Advantages 

Pot  Fruit — Cultural  Directions  and  Feeding 

Pot  Fruit — Pinching  the  Shoot,  Thinning  the  Fruit 

Pot  Fruit — Troublesome  Diseases  and  Insect  Pests 

Pot  Fruit— Treatment  of  Trees  After  the  Fruit   is  Gathered 

Varieties  of  Fruit  Adapted  for  Orchardhouse  Work 

Fig  Culture  in  a  Separate  House 

Melon-Growing  in  the  House 

Melons — General  Culture 172 

Strawberries  as  Pot  Fruit 179 

Secrets  of  Success  in  Strawberry  Culture 185 

The  Hothouse  Pineapple 191 


VEGETABLES  UNDER  GLASS 


XXXII 

Cauliflower 

213 

XXXIII 

Radishes 

XXXV 

Cucumbers 

226 

XXXVI 

Mushrooms 

233 

XXXVII 

Rhubarb 

XXXVIII 

.    . 240 

XXXIX 

243 

XL 

Sea  Kale  and  Chicorv 

248 

14  FRUITS  AND  VEGETABLES  UNDER  GLASS 

ILLUSTRATIONS  p,^. 

Grape  Muscat  of  Alexandria 1 8 

Ground  Plan  for  Early,  Medium  and  Late  Grapery 21 

Grape  Gros  Colman 23 

Grape  Gros  Maroc 35 

Grape  Black  Hamburg 28 

Section  of  Grapery 31 

Grape  Lady  Hutt 36 

Grape  Barbarossa 39 

Grape  Vines  Just  Coming  into  Leaf 42 

A  Grape  Vine  Three  Months  Old 44 

A  Grape  Vine  Eye  Just  Rooted 46 

A  Grape  Vine  Showing  Method  of  Pruning 49 

Grape  Alicante 55 

Grape  No.  i — Before  Thinning 58 

Grape  No.  2 — After  Thinning 60 

Grape  No.  3 — Same  as  Nos.  i  and  2  Taken  Nine  or  Ten  Weeks  Later 62 

Grape  Madresfield  Court 64 

Grape  Black  Hamburg 71 

Grape  Vine,  30-40  Years  Old,  of  the  Variety  Gros  Guillaume 73 

Grape  Muscat  of  Alexandria 77 

Grape  Representing  Method  of  Pot  Culture 87 

Peach  Trees  in  Blossom 93 

Section  of  Peach-house 95 

Peach  Peregrine 98 

Peach  Bellegarde 100 

Nectarine  Spencer I02 

Nectarine  Advance 103 

Peach  Bellegarde. 108 

Nectarine  Early  Rivers in 

Nectarine  Newton 115 

Peach  Thomas  Rivers 117 

Peach  Noblesse 120 

Peach  Goshawk 123 

Peach  Peregrine 125 

Peach  Thomas  Rivers 125 

Section  of  House  for  Pot  Fruit 130 

Pear  Princess 135 

Plum  Denniston  Superb 140 

Pear  Mme.  Treyve 143 

Plum  Denniston  Superb 147 

Pear  Beurre  Hardy 150 

Plum  Oullin's  Golden i  52 

Plum  Mallard 153 

Plum  Czar I  54 

Pear  Pitmaston  Duchess 155 

Pear  Conference 1 56 

Fig  Bourjassotte  Grise 161 

Fig  Negro  Largo , 165. 

Muskmelon,  Sutton's  Emerald  Gem 168 

Muskmelon,  Turner's  Seedling 171 

Muskmelon  Superb 176- 

Strawberry    Sharpless 181 

Strawberry  Pride  of  Red  Bank .  186 

Pineapple  Queen igj 

Pineapple,  Smooth-Leaf  Cayenne .197 


Lettuce  May  King 206- 

Lettuce  Ideal 2 1 1 

Cauliflower  Snowball 214. 

Tomato  The  Rochford 223', 

Cucumber  Improved  Telegraph 229 

Crop  of  Mushrooms  One  Month  After  Bed  Was  Spawned  with  Pure  Culture  Spawn 232 

Asparagus 241 

Carrots 244 

Beets 245 

Bean  Black  Valentine 246. 


FRUITS  UNDER  GLASS 


HISTORY     OF    THE    GRAPE    VINE 


CHAPTER    I 


HISTORY   OF    THE    GRAPE   VINE 

IN  telling  the  story  of  the  Grape  vine  there  is  nothing  new  to  recount;  it 
belongs  to  ancient  history.  The  Grape  is  mentioned  in  the  early  chap- 
ters of  the  Bible,  from  which  we  learn  that  it  was  held  in  high  esteem 
by  the  peoples  of  antiquity  as  well  as  of  later  times,  who  prized  not  only  the 
fruit  itself  but  as  well  the  wine  extracted  from  it.  According  to  the  early  writers, 
the  vine,  Vitis  vinifera.  was  cultivated  in  Asia  and  Egypt,  in  Greece,  Italy,  and 
other  parts  of  southern  Europe,  and  later  in  France.  It  is  even  said  that  the 
Romans  attempted  its  cultivation  in  Britain  during  their  occupancy  of  that 
land,  though  with  poor  success.  This  shows  that  the  warm  air  of  Italy  is  better 
adapted  to  its  successful  cultivation  than  is  the  damp  and  moist  climate  of 
England. 

Vineyards  are  mentioned  by  Bede  (before  731  A.  D.)  as  existing  in  several 
parts  of  Britain.  Even  the  monasteries  were  not  complete  without  their  vine- 
yards. More  has  probably  been  written  concerning  the  Grape  vine  than  of 
any  other  fruit.  It  is  disappointing,  however,  in  looking  over  the  references 
to  it,  to  find  so  few  records  of  value  as  to  its  actual  history.  Take,  for  instance, 
the  Muscat  of  Alexandria,  one  of  the  oldest  known  Grapes,  and  still  without 
a  peer  when  properly  handled;  how  interesting  it  would  be  to  know  the  true 
early  history  of  such  a  magnificent  fruit!  Many  varieties  have  been  disseminated 
during  the  past  three  score  years,  yet,  if  I  were  asked  to  name  the  two  best 
varieties  of  Grapes,  1  should  unhesitatingly  say  Black  Hamburg  and  Muscat 
of  Alexandria.  The  latter  variety  has  gone  under  many  differing  names,  and 
so-called  improved  varieties  have  been  tried  in  years  gone  by.  Even  the  much 
discussed  Canon  Hall  Muscat  was  thought,  and  not  so  long  ago,  to  be  an  im- 
provement, and  such  it  would  undoubtedly  have  been  but  for  the  fact  that  it 
was  almost  impossible  to  secure  from  it  a  good  set.  Thus,  this  varietj-  was 
weighed  in  the  balance  and  found  wanting.  Strange  to  say,  several  of  the  leading 
varieties  of  cur  Grapes  of  today  were  not  recognized  at  their  true  value  until 
some  years  after  they  were  first  tested  or  raised  from  seed.  Foster's  Seedling  was 
originated  about  1835,  but  it  was  not  grown  to  any  extent  until  twenty-five 
years  later;  then,  howe\er,  it  became  popular  so  quickly  that  it  was  found  in  nearly 
every  establishment  growing  Grapes  on  any  scale.  Gros  Maroc  was  introduced 
about  1855,  from  the  vineyards  of  M.  Vibert  of  Angers,  but  it  remained  com- 
paratively unknown  for  a  number  of  years  and  until  T.  F.  Rivers  received  a 


D.  H.  HILL  U^'=?ARY 

North  ';f  -     '"        •     ''^S,* 


FRUITS    AND    \EGF,TABI.nS    L'NDP.R    GLASS 


Grape  Muscat   oh  Alexandria 

Thf  finest  of  ;ill  liothouse  Grapes.  Wherever  a  white  Grape  is  in  dcni; 
should  have  preference  over  all  others.  Berries  and  bunches  are  large,  will 
bunches  hanpinf;  on  the  vines  a  considerable  time  after  beins:  ripe. 


HISTORY     OF    THE    GRAPE    VINE  19 

first-class  certificate  for  an  exhibit  tiiereof  from  tiie  Royal  Horticultural  Society 
of  Great  Britain;  then  its  popularity  became  established;  from  that  time  on 
it  has  graced  many  an  exhibition  and  often  carried  off  the  highest  honors  for 
black  Grapes.  While  it  has  not  an  extra  rich  flavor,  it  is  popular  on  account 
of  its  appearance,  the  size  of  the  berry,  its  finish,  and  it  is  also  an  easy  doer. 

The  same  may  be  said  of  Gros  Colman.  The  early  history  of  this  Grape 
is  not  very  clear.  Mr.  Thomson  of  Scotland  was  the  first  to  recognize  the  possi- 
bilities of  this  variety  for  growing  on  a  large  scale  for  the  market.  Thomson 
&  Sons,  Clovenfords,  Scotland,  have  made  their  name  known  far  and  wide 
through  their  success  with  Gros  Colman  as  a  late-keeping  Grape,  and  today 
more  Grapes  of  this  variety,  for  a  late  fruit,  are  probably  grown  than  of  any 
other. 

Under  favorable  circumstances  the  \ine  will  Vivf  to  a  great  age.  There 
are  records  of  vines  five  hundred  years  old.  The  celebrated  vine  at  Hampton 
Court,  England,  was  planted  in  1769  and  is  still  bearing  annually  a  large  number 
of  medium-sized  bunches.  This  is  proof  sufficient  that  the  Grape  vine  will  reach 
a  good  old  age  provided  it  is  well  cared  for. 

It  is  only  during  the  past  fifty  years  or  so  that  the  Grape  \"ine  has  occupied 
so  much  space  under  glass,  and  its  cultivation  today  does  not  vary  to  any  great 
extent  from  that  practiced  years  ago.  In  my  younger  days  I  have  seen  some 
very  old-fashioned  graperies,  where  the  vines  were  planted  outside  and  brought 
in  through  crevices  in  the  wall,  there  being  no  inside  border  at  all.  Good  Grapes 
may  be  grown  in  this  way  for  Midseason,  but  for  early  forcing  or  for  late  growth 
it  is  very  unsatisfactory.  However,  going  back  twenty-fi\e  to  thirty  years,  we 
find  some  magnificent  specimens  of  Grapes,  and  we  have  records  of  bunches 
of  great  weight,  such  as  Trebbiano,  weighing  26  pounds;  W  hite  Nice,  25  pounds; 
Gros  Guillaume,  commonK  known  as  Barbarossa,  23  pounds;  Black  Ham- 
burg, 21  pounds.  Such  record  weights  are  surely  of  interest  to  look  back  upon, 
and  we  can  truly  say  that  the  men  who  grew  those  bunches  have  left  these 
records  as  a  monument  to  their  skill  in  the  cultivation  of  Grapes  under  glass. 
Records  equal  to  these  will  not  easily  be  eclipsed. 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


CHAPTER     II 

HOUSES    BEST    ADAPTED    EOR    GROWING   GRAPES 

THE  advances  made  in  recent  years  in  greenhouse  construction  is  simply 
marvelous.  A  few  years  ago  we  thcugiit  they  had  reached  perfection 
and  that  it  would  be  almost  impossible  to  better  them.  But  improve- 
ments have  continued  since  then,  so  that  it  now  seems  to  me  that  the  profes- 
sional builder  will  have  to  exercise  considerable  ingenuity  before  he  can  im- 
prove upon  existing  types.  We,  as  growers  of  forced  fruits,  appreciate  the 
good  work  which  has  been  done  along  these  lines,  and  the  growers  throughout 
the  country  are  fully  aware  of  the  benefits  they  have  deri\ed  from  this  source. 
I  may  safely  say  that  greenhouses,  such  as  are  now  erected  in  America,  have 
not  their  equal  anywhere  in  the  world  for  strength,  durability,  and  light.  The 
greenhouse  constructor  is  surely  the  grower's  best  friend. 

Fruit  has  been  grown  in  different  kinds  of  structures.  \'ears  ago  the  leanto 
house  was  much  in  favor,  and  it  is  still  very  satisfactory  for  climates  not  sub- 
ject to  extremes  of  temperature,  especially  for  early  forcing,  when  facing  south. 
In  such  a  house  the  desired  temperature  is  easily  maintained.  But  when  ex- 
tremes of  temperature  have  to  be  reckoned  with  the  even  span  is  the  ideal  house 
for  fruit  culture.  Either  a  curvilinear  or  a  straight  roof  may  be  adopted.  One 
point  in  favor  of  the  curvilinear  root  for  private  establishments  is  that  it  gives 
the  range  a  neater  appearance,  in  agreeable  contrast  to  that  of  the  commercial 
greenhouse.  As  to  the  width,  a  house  25  feet  widt  is  just  right,  and  it  should 
certainly  net  exceed  30  feet.  Let  your  fruithouses  run,  if  possible,  north  and 
south.  Complete  ventilation  must  be  provided,  both  for  top  and  bottom,  as 
free  circulation  of  air  is  necessary  both  when  ripening  up  the  fruit  and  the  wood. 
Admitting  that  the  greenhouse  constructor  has  reduced  the  building  of 
these  houses  to  a  science,  with  a  thorough  understanding  of  all  the  requirements 
of  an  ideal  fruithouse,  I  do  not  need  to  go  into  any  details  along  these  lines. 
Still,  a  word  in  regard  to  location  will  be  permissible.  Greater  success  is  to  be 
looked  for  by  selecting  an  elevation  rather  than  low  ground.  Where  fruithouses 
arc  on  low  ground  thc\  need  close  attention,  as  the  fruit  in  them  i^  more  subject 
to  mildew  and  kindred  diseases.  The  ideal  range  will  be  set  on  an  elevation 
and  protected  from  the  north  winds  or,  if  there  exists  no  natural  protection,  a 
planting  can  be  made  for  the  purpose  of  furnishing  a  windbreak  that  w  ill  assume 
an  adequate  size  in  a  few  years. 

As  to  heating,  either  steam  or  hot  water  nia\   be  used,  but  fruithouses  are 
generally   equipped   with   a    hot    water  system;    I,    myself,   decidedly   prefer  the 


HOUSES   BEST   ADAPTED    FOR   GROWING   GRAPES  2, 

latter.     There  is  an  attribute  in  connection  with  a  hot  water  s\stem  w  iiicii  gi\es 
off  a  mild  heat,  whereas  the  steam  seems  harsh  and  fiery. 

In  installing  the  piping  to  give  the  desired  temperature  it  is  much  better 
to  overpipe  a  house  than  to  underpipe  it,  but  this  need  not  overheat  the  house, 
for,  under  most  conditions,  the  desired  temperature  can  be  easily  maintained. 


EARLY   GRAPERY 
25x33' 4" 

MEDIUM    GRAPERY 
2  5X33-4" 

LATE    GRAPERN 
25x33-4" 

J            III                    1       II    ill 

1 

illlllllllillllilllllllilllliilillil 

This  represents  the  ^ruuiid  plan  In]  three  cumpartments,  e.ca  span  house,  with  shit  walk 
in  the  center,  fur  Grape  I'urcing — early,  midseason  and  late — which,  for  ordinary  private  use, 
should  be  sufficient.  Still,  if  desired,  these  compartments  may  be  extended  to  any  length  according 
to  demands,  although  I  would  not  advocate  having  the  grapery  more  than  25  feet  in  width. 
Then,  by  having  the  vines  planted  each  side  of  the  house,  it  will  allow  space,  for  training  up  the 
permanent  rods  on  each  side,  of  2^  or  25  feet,  which  is  a  sufficient  length.  Three  compartments 
are  absolutely  necessary  where  a  continuous  supply  is  desired — say,  from  May  ist  to  January 
1st.  Neither  would  there  be  anything  gained  by  having  more,  as  this  would  be  found  to  cover 
the  season  thoroughly.  The  same  plan  w-ould  be  ideal  for  a  Peach  house,  only  have  the  walk 
around  the  sides  instead  of  in  the  center,  and  plant  the  trees'crosswlse  of  the  house,  using  trellises 
for  that  purpose,  about  6  feet  apart. 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


CHAPTER     III 


THE   VARIOUS    SYSTEMS    OF    PROPAGATION 

Propagation  by  Layering — Propagation  by  Seed — Cross   Fertilization — 
Propagation  by   Inarching — Propagation  by  Grafting 

THE  Grape  vine  may  be  easily  propagated  and,  with  the  proper  iaciii- 
ties  at  command,  there  will  be  very  little  trouble,  as  a  rule,  in  raising 
young  plants.  There  are  different  methods  in  vogue,  such  as  by  cut- 
tings, layering  and  eyes. 

Fruit  experts  have  held  for  many  years  that  the  plants  propagated  from 
the  eyes  are  the  most  satisfactory  in  every  respect.  It  should  be  borne  in  mind, 
however,  that  in  order  to  get  the  best  results,  it  is  absolutely  necessary  that  the 
stock  selected  for  this  purpose  be  thoroughly  ripened  wood.  Although  the  effect 
of  using  unripe  wood  may  not  be  evident  when  the  young  plants  are  first  rooted, 
yet  it  will  appear  later.  If  two  batches'  were  put  in  at  the  same  time,  one  with 
the  wood  thoroughly  ripened  and  the  other  with  unripened  wood,  both  batches 
would  probably  root  equally  well,  but  the  ripened  wood,  doubtless,  would  grow- 
away  from  the  other,  and  make  much  better  plants  before  the  end  of  the  season. 
To  the  unobservant  the  vines,  when  dormant,  may  all  look  ripe.  Yet  there  is 
a  wide  difference.  Some  w^ood  w^ll  cut  pithy  and  soft,  and  this  is  very  undesir- 
able, while  the  wood  that  cuts  hard,  or  almost  like  dried  wood,  is  ideal  stock  for 
raising  vigorous  plants.  This  may  seem  a  point  of  small  importance;  never- 
theless, the  very  best  is  none  too  good  for  future  purposes,  and  the  end  in  view 
should  not  be  lost  sight  of. 

The  question  has  often  been  asked:  When  is  the  best  time  to  propagate 
young  vines.'  I  should  say  from  the  middle  to  the  end  of  January,  and  this 
for  two  reasons:  in  the  first  place,  it  gives  one  a  good  season  in  which  to  grow 
the  canes;  in  the  second  place,  by  the  time  they  are  rooted,  the  days  are  some- 
what longer,  a  circumstance  which  promotes  the  growth.  Whereas,  if  the 
plants  are  started  earlier,  they  run  the  lisk  of  having  their  growth  checked  during 
the  dark  days  of  Winter.  The  result  would  be  a  stunted  cane  only  fit  for  the 
rubbish  pile. 

As  stated,  select  the  most  perfect,  plump  eves,  leaving  about  half  an  inch 
of  wood  on  each  side  of  the  eye.  A  slight  incision  may  be  made  on  the  side  opposite 
the  eye,  a  little  below  the  bark;  this,  however,  is  not  necessary,  for  the  wood  will 
callus  below  the  eye  as  the  bud   progresses,  and  the  roots  will  follow.      Where 


THFl  XARIOl'S  SYSTEMS  OF  PROPAGATION 


24  FRUITS    AND    VEGFTABIFS    UNDER    GLASS 

a  large  quantity  ol'  A'incs  is  to  be  raised  I'rum  eyes,  tiiese  may  be  laid  in  Hats, 
a  couple  of  inches  apart,  first  half  filling  the  flat  with  soil;  then  a  coat  of  sharp 
sand  is  spread  on  top  and  the  eyes  are  pressed  down  until  the  bud  is  level  with 
the  sand.  This  method  economizes  space,  but  it  has  one  serious  drawback 
in  that  the  vines  are  disturbed  after  they  have  started  to  root;  as  well, 
the  first  roots  made  by  the  vines  are  not  fibrous,  but  straight  and  smooth 
and  very  easily  broken. 

The  most  successful  way,  and  the  one  to  be  recommended,  is  tlie  follow  ing: 
Take  3-inch  pots,  fill  them  partly  with  broken  sod  and  spread  about  one  inch  oi 
sand  on  top.  Insert  one  eye  in  each  pot,  pressing  the  eve  down  into  the  sand 
until  the  bud  is  level  with  the  sand.  These  pots  may  be  put  into  the  propagating 
house  where  there  is  bottom  heat  of  about  -5',  with  about  -o  top, 
setting  them  in  some  material  that  will  pre\ent  their  drying  out  too  often. 
They  must  be  kept  moist  all  the  time,  but  do  not  saturate  them.  The  most 
critical  time,  or  the  danger  point,  is  just  as  the  bud  is  beginning  to  leaf  out. 
Too  much  water  lodging  around  at  this  period  is  apt  to  cause  decay.  But, 
after  the  root  action  iKecomes  good,  there  is  less  danger.  As  the  pots  get 
fairly  well  filled  with  roots,  a  shift  is  in  order  into  5-inch  pots,  still  using 
bottom  heat  for  a  time. 

When  the  weather  gets  warmer  the  plants  ma>-  be  removed  from  the  bottom 
heat  and  grown  through  the  Summer  months  in  a  moist,  even  temperature; 
about  80°  by  day  and  70°  by  night  is  the  ideal  temperature  for  them. 
If  everything  has  gone  well  they  should  be  good,  strong  canes  in  g-inch  pots 
by  the  Fall,  making  good  material  for  planting  into  the  borders  for  fruiting, 
either  in  the  Fall  or  in  the  following  Spring,  as  will  be  explained  later. 

PROPAGATION    B^'    LA\'ER1NG 

I  have  seen  excellent  results  obtained  by  merely  rooting  young  vines  and 
planting  them  at  once  in  the  Grape  border  at  the  proper  distance  for  fruiting 
canes.  Through  this  method,  very  strong,  vigorous  canes  were  grown  the 
same  season.  I  think,  however,  that  better  success  is  likely  to  be  obtained  by 
growing  the  canes  in  pots  for  one  season,  for  in  selecting  one-year  canes,  one  would 
naturally  desire  to  have  them  of  uniform  size,  whereas,  if  the  newly  rooted  green 
vines  are  planted,  some  may  grow  away  more  vigorously  than  others,  thus  gi\ing 
the  canes  a  somewhat  une\cn  appearance. 

PROPAGATION    B^'    INARCHING 

Inarching  is  worthy  of  mention.  In  a  grapery  containing  vines  which 
are  strong  and  healthy  although  of  an  undesirable  variety,  it  is  an  easy  operation 
to  inarch  other  varieties  thereon.  The  most  feasible  way  in  which  to  earr\ 
out  this  work  is  to  raise  the  varieties  desired  in  pots  and  to  inarch  them  on  tlie 
varieties  to  be  discarded  when  large  enough.  Well  grown  one-year  canes  will 
answer  the  purpose.  When  starting  up  a  grapery  with  the  view  to  inarching, 
the  stock  destined  for  this  operation  may  be  brought  into  the  same   house  a 

D.   H.   HILL   LIBRARY 
North  Cai-ol.na  Sccto  College 


THE    VARIOUS    SYSTEMS    OF    PROPAGATION 


Grape   Gros    Maroc 
A  black  vinous  Grape,  producing  handsome  bunches  with  extremely  large  berries.      On 
finest  Grapes  in  appearance,  but  somewhat  deficient  in  flavor. 


26  FRUI'lS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

week  or  ten  days  later.  If  the  pots  are  brought  in  at  the  time  when  the  house 
is  started  they  are  very  habie  to  begin  to  grow  before  the  vines  which  are  planted 
in  the  border.  This  is  due  to  the  fact  that  the  one  batch  has  its  roots  down  in 
the  cool  earth,  whereas  the  plants  in  the  pots  are  in  a  congenial,  warm  atmosphere. 
When  the  young  growth  is  about  a  foot  long,  or,  at  least,  while  the  wood  is 
still  soft,  select  one  of  the  side  shoots,  as  near  the  bottom  of  the  old  cane  as  pos- 
sible, bring  the  green  shoot  of  the  cion  down  to  the  growing  shoot  of  the  stock; 
befoie  uniting  them  make  a  slight  cut  on  each  shoot  a  trifle  deeper  than  the  bark, 
where  the  two  shoots  will  be  joined  and  tie  the  two  together,  as  in  grafting. 
Trv  to  have  both  shoots  of  about  the  same  size.  As  soon  as  the  cion  has  united 
with  the  stock,  begin  to  cut  it  away  from  its  own  roots,  and  keep  the  stock  pinched 
back  by  degrees  so  as  to  give  strength  and  vigor  to  the  cion.  When  the  latter 
has  been  fully  started  it  usually  grows  very  fast. 

PROPAGATION    B^'   GRAETING 

Vines  also  may  be  grafted,  but  this  is  a  rather  difficult  operation  on  account 
of  their  nature.  If  grafted  when  the  vine  is  dormant  no  union  will  take  place. 
The  most  favorable  time  for  this  operation  is  after  the  first  flow  of  sap  has  passed, 
or  about  the  time  when  the  vines  are  in  bloom.  However,  I  need  not  go  into 
the  details  of  this  subject,  as  vines  are  not  grafted  to  any  extent  now. 

PROPAGATION   B\-   SEED— CROSS-FERTILIZATION 

Propagation  by  seed  is  worthy  of  notice,  although  thic  method  is  seldom 
resorted  to  since  the  vine  is  easily  increased  otherwise  by  propagation.  While 
we  have  some  excellent  material  for  the  early  and  Midsummer  varieties,  our 
late-keeping  varieties  leave,  unfortunately,  much  to  be  desired;  they  lack  that 
rich  Muscat  flavor  demanded  of  a  first-class  Grape.  What  an  achievement  it 
would  be  could  we  but  infuse  some  of  theMuscat  blood  into  our  vinous  and  Sweet- 
water varieties,  and  still  preserve  the  keeping  qualities  of  a  Gros  Colman  or  a 
Barbarossa!  But  it  seems,  unfortunately,  that  when  a  seedling  with  a  distinct 
Muscat  flavor  is  raised  there  always  accompanies  it  a  thin  skin  and  poor  keeping 
qualities  for  late  ure.  As  an  instance  of  this  character,  note  Madresfield  Court, 
one  of  the  finest  of  all  the  black  Muscats.  This  noble  variety  was  obtained 
by  crossing  Muscat  of  Alexandria  with  Black  Morocco;  it  derived  itr  color  from 
the  vinous  variety  Morocco  and  its  rich  flavor  from  the  Muscat. 

The  sole  purpose  of  raising  vines  from  seed  is  to  obtain  new  or  impro\ed 
varieties.  But  if  seed  is  taken  at  haphazard  the  chances  for  any  real  progress 
arc  slight.  The  variety  would  probably  only  reproduce  itself  or,  more  than 
likely,  would  degenerate.  The  object  to  be  attained  is  through  cross-fertiliza- 
tion and  close  attention  is  required  to  handle  this  operation  successfully.  When 
the  cap  is  thrown  ofT  and  the  anthers  are  exposed  to  the  light  and  air,  then,  if 
Nature  is  allowed  to  do  her  work,  self-fertilization  will  be  accomplished  in  a 
short  time.  To  cross  fertilize  one  variety  with  another,  means  must  be  taken 
in  advance  of  the  natural  development  so  that  self-fertilization  cannot  be  efTccted. 
To  o\ercome  this,  select,  a  day  or  so  previous  to  the  opening  of  the  first  flowers. 


THE  VARIOUS  S>STEMS  OF  PROPAGATION  2- 

the  bunch  in  which  is  intended  to  he  the  female  or  seed-bearinfi  parent.  Cut 
away  or  thin  down  to,  say,  a  couple  of  dozen  flowers,  then  protect  this  bunch 
against  the  attacks  of  insects,  which  may  be  accomplished  by  using  a  thin  muslin 
bag.  It  will  be  necessary  to  examine  these  flowers  closely.  Just  before  the  cap 
is  ready  to  be  thrown  off, remove  it  with  a  pair  of  fine-pointed  scissors  and  imme- 
diately cut  away  the  stamens.  This  is  an  operation  requiring  care  and  patience. 
When  the  stamens  are  cut  off,  the  pollen  of  the  sort  selected  for  the  male  parent 
can  be  applied.  Experimenters  will  have  theii  own  preferences  as  to  the  choice 
of  a  male  parent.  The  pollen  should  be  applied  with  a  very  small  camel's  hair 
brush  to  the  stigma  of  the  prepared  flower.  As  a  precaution  against  any  other 
pollen  coming  in  contact  with  the  bunch  under  operation  it  would  be  well  to 
enclose  the  flowers  operated  upon  in  a  loose  muslin  bag.  This  process  will 
probably  have  to  be  repeated  several  times,  or  until  the  entire  bunch  or  all  the 
flowers  have  been  fertilized.   When  the  berries  are  set,  remove  the  muslin  bag. 

Hybridizers  have  their  own  pets  to  select  from  for  the  seed-bearing  plant. 
A  fairly  safe  guide  to  follow,  which  holds  good  for  all  other  kinds  of  reproduction, 
is  to  select  a  plant  of  vigorous  constitution  for  the  seed  bearer.  An  ideal  seed 
bearer  would  be  a  good  Muscat-flavored  Grape,  with  the  constitution  of  Gros 
Maroc  or  an  Alicante.  The  hybridizer  whc  succeeds  along  these  lines  will  leave 
a  name  behind  him.  While  advocating  this  operation,  I  realize  that  it  is  a  slow 
and  uncertain  one.  Yet  there  is  pleasure  and  excitement  in  watching  the  devel- 
opment of  a  tiny  seedling.  We  know  we  have  succeeded  in  raising  a  seedling, 
but  what  will  it  turn  out  to  be.^  And  it  is  the  uncertainty  in  the  raising  of  seed- 
lings of  flower  or  of  fruit  which  stimulates  our  interest  and  excitement. 

Raising  Grapes  from  seed  is  a  somewhat  tedious  procefs,  and  for  that 
reason  comparatively  little  hybridizing  is  being  done  It  takes  two  to  three 
years  from  the  time  that  the  seed  is  sown  until  you  may  reap  your  reward  or 
giieve  over  your  failuie  if  the  plant  does  not  fulfill  your  expectations.  There 
has  been  many  a  rejoicing  over  successful  introductions,  and  also  much  disap- 
pointment over  plants  that  did  not  come  up  to  the  standard  set.  The  thing 
to  do  is  to  take  the  issues  as  they  come,  and  to  swallow  the  bitter  witli  the  sweet, 
although  the  bitter  may  be  hard  to  digest  at  times. 

If  you  have  decided  to  try  youi  luck  in  raising  seedling  Grapes  it  wcnild 
be  well  to  devote  a  small  house  to  that  purpose,  for,  if  the  seedlings  are  set  out 
in  a  border  the  second  season,  they  make  better  headway  and  in  fact  cause  less 
trouble  than  if  kept  in  pots.  It  is  not  advisable  tc  keep  the  Grape  seed  any 
length  of  time  before  sewing,  as  it  does  not  hold  its  germinating  power  as  long  as 
manv  other  seeds  do.  But  Giapes  are  readily  raised  from  seed  and  do  not  take 
very  long  to  come  up,  especially  where  thev  have  bottom  heat.  The  best  time  for 
planting  is  near  the  end  of  January.  Sow  the  seed  thinly  in  a  small  flat  or  pan. 
When  the  young  plants  have  become  large  enough  to  handle  transfer  them  to 
small  pots  and  keep  them  growing  in  a  moist,  even  temperature.  Repot  them 
during  the  season  when  necessary.  It  is  poor  policy  to  allow  them  to  become  pot- 
bound.  If  everything  goes  well  the  first  season  they  will  probably  fruit  the  third 
season.  If  you  give  your  seedlings  the  best  of  treatment  and  meet  with  fair 
success  the  fruit  will  repay  you  for   your  labor  by  its  quality  and  abundance. 


28  FRUITS    AND    X'EGFTABI.F.S    UNDER    GLASS 


A  black  Sweetwater  Grape,  ex 
keeping.     One 


selul  black  Grapes 


VINE    BORDERS 


CHAPTER    IV 


VINE    BORDERS 

Draining  a  Border—  Fertilizer  for  the  Border — 
Watering — Root  Actiox 

THERE  lias  been  much  discussion  in  the  last  few  years  as  to  the  correct 
construction  of  bordeis,  and  this  certainly  is  a  subject  requiring  care- 
ful consideration  and  good  judgment,  for  on  it  depends  the  success 
or  failure  of  the  undertaking.  We  know  from  long  experience  that  excellent 
Grapes  have  been  grown  from  outside  borders  only.  These  have,  howe\cr, 
been  discarded  for  years  in  favor  of  a  combination  border,  that  is,  a  border 
both  inside  and  outside.  So  far,  especially  here  in  the  United  States,  the  inside 
border  has  been  generally  used  on  account  of  the  great  advantages  it  presents. 
In  a  private  establishment  it  gives  the  surroundings  a  much  neater  appearance 
by  doing  away  with  the  unsightly  outside  grapery  border.  Still,  I  have  no  desire 
to  discredit  the  outside  border,  but  it  is  not  necessary  to  make  it  as  wide  as 
is  oftentimes  done;  a  width  of  eight  feet  is  quite  sufficient,  and  such  a  structure 
could  easily  be  protected  against  the  inclemencies  of  the  Winter  through  the 
use  of  a  layer  of  leaves  one  foot  thick,  with  a  sprinkling  of  coarse  manure  on  top 
to  keep  the  leaves  from  blowing  away.  Leaves  are  one  of  the  best  protections 
against  frost  and  a  sure  means  of  preventing  the  freezing  of  the  soil. 

We  must  furthermore  consider  the  location.  If  the  graperies  are  on  low 
ground,  confine  the  borders  wholly  to  the  inside.  But  in  selecting  a  location 
for  fruithouses  it  is  much  better  to  have  them  on  somewhat  elevated  ground, 
as  this  largely  avoids  the  danger  of  what  I  will  term  waterlogged  bottoms,  which 
locations  are  most  undesirable.  While  Grape  vines  imperatively  call  for  an 
ample  supply  of  moisture  at  their  roots  in  the  growing  season,  with  this  there 
must  be  perfect  drainage,  or  everything  will  go  wrong  in  spite  of  the  best  of  care 
they  may  receive  otherwise.  Where  the  drainage  is  faulty  the  appearance  and 
color  of  the  Grapes  are  bound  to  suffer. 

When  there  is  a  border  both  inside  and  outside,  openings  or  arches  are 
left  in  the  masonry,  and  it  is  a  curious  fact  to  note  that  the  roots  inside  work 
their  way  out,  especially  where  the  outside  has  been  prepared  with  the  same  care 
as  the  inside.  There  is  something  about  the  free,  outdoor  atmosphere  which 
is  most  congenial  to  plant  life.  You  will  very  seldom  find  a  dcca\ed  root  on  the 
outside,  but  only  vigorous,  working  roots,  while  on  the  inside  man\  of  the  small 


30 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


working  roots  often  decay  wlien  thcv  are  at  rest.  1  have  t)bservecl  this  more 
than  once.  But  when  the  roots  have  the  benelit  of  both  tire  inside  and  the  out- 
side, the  vines  will  keep  in  a  healthy,  vigorous  condition  much  longer  than  when 
confined  wholly  inside.  Much  may  be  said  both  for  and  against  such  an  arrange- 
ment. For  very  early  forcing  this  method  has  its  drawbacks — the  many  roots 
outside  are  like  cold  feet,  so  to  speak,  but  for  Midseason  and  early  Fall  I  strongly 
recommend  a  border  of  about  eight  feet  outside.  W  hile  such  a  border  is  not  neces- 
sary— fruit  men  generally  throughout  this  country  being  assured  that  inside 
borders  are  a  success — yet  I  may  say,  without  fear  of  contradiction,  that  when 
the  roots  are  confined  wholly  inside  the  borders  require  much  closer  attention 
as  to  watering,  feeding,  etc.,  and,  generally  speaking,  more  cultural  skill  in  ordei 
to  produce  the  best  results.  Another  important  fact  to  note  is,  that  the  \-ines  will 
retain  their  vigor  from  five  to  ten  years  longer  with  the  additional  eight  feet  of 
outside  border.  But  this  outside  border  must  receive  the  same  care  as  the  inside, 
in  the  way  of  feeding  and  watering  when  necessary.  When  the  vines  have  to 
depend  wholly  on  the  inside  for  their  sustenance  for  a  period  of  from  ten  to  twelve 
years,  it  would  pay  to  renew  them  with  strong  one-year-old  canes.  After  a 
vine  begins  to  lose  its  vigor,  it  should  l^c  rcmo\ed,  the  border  renewed  w  ith  fresh 
soil,  and  a  new  start  made. 

The  Grape  is  a  robust,  strong  vine  when  grown  under  favorable  conditions. 
A  vine  in  the  open  ground,  where  Nature  has  full  sway,  will  grow  luxuriously, 
especially  if  set  cut  on  well  drained  land,  but  if  planted  on  a  spot  with  imperfect 
drainage  its  growth  will  be  poor  and  its  life  a  struggle  for  existence.  This  is  a 
fairly  good  lesson  to  guide  us  in  the  making  of  a  border.  If  the  vine  will  flourish 
in  well  drained  soil  in  the  open  ground  the  fact  becomes  very  evident  that  good 
drainage  is  vital  to  its  perfect  development.  Before  proceeding  further,  I  want 
to  make  sure  of  being  thoroughly  understood  in  regard  to  my  opinion  of  outside 
borders;  for  very  early  forcing  I  do  not  approve  of  them. 

DRAINING  A    BORDER 

The  first  and  most  important  subject  to  be  taken  up  is  that  of  drainage. 
In  some  locations  the  natural  drainage  is  so  perfect  that  it  is  not  necessary 
to  incur  any  expense  on  that  account.  But  where  there  is  the  least  doubt, 
then  by  all  means  resort  to  artificial  drains.  I  will  give  instructions  here  for 
draining  a  border.  In  the  first  place,  provide  for  an  outlet  for  the  water  that 
may  collect  in  the  bottom.  Here  we  see  the  advantage  of  having  the  fruit- 
house  on  an  elevation,  as  the  water  can  then  be  carried  off  with  less  expense. 
The  soil  must  be  excavated  at  least  four  feet  below  the  level  of  the  grapery. 
Then  lay  a  tile  drain  down  the  center  of  the  house,  or  houses,  as  the  case  may 
be,  preferably  a  three  or  four-inch  drain.  Give  this  drain  just  enough  fall  the 
entire  length  of  the  houses  to  carry  olT  the  water,  and  leave  openings  20  or 
25  feet  apart  for  catching  it.  The  concreting  of  the  bottom  depends  to  a 
certain  extent  on  circumstances.  On  a  ccld,  clayey  subsoil,  a  rough  concrete 
would  be  ad\isable  in  order  to  pre\ent  the  roots  from  penetrating  below;  the 
center   should  be  about  six  inches  lower  than  the   side    so    that  there  ma\    be  no 


VINE    BORDERS 


32  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

lodgment  of  water.  All  these  directions  refer  to  a  span  roof  fruithouse,  but  the 
same  principles  may  be  applied  to  a  leanto  or  to  a  three-fourths  span,  only  in 
this  latter  case  the  drain  would  be  along  the  front  instead  of  in  the  center. 
About  15  inches  of  drainage  above  this  in  the  center,  tapering  off  to  nine 
inches  at  the  side,  would  make  a  level  bottom.  It  is  immaterial  what  kind 
of  drainage  is  used;  broken  brickbats  are  good  for  the  purpose,  with  a  thin 
layer  of  oyster  shells  on  top,  if  available,  although  this  is  not  absolutely  neces- 
sary. The  main  obiect  is  to  finish  the  conduit  off  with  some  material  that  will 
prevent  the  soil  from  washing  through  and  clogging  up  the  channel.  From  the 
drainage  to  the  surface  of  the  border  there  should  be  from  two  and  one-half 
to  three  feet  for  soil,  and  then,  to  make  the  drainage  doubly  secure,  place  a 
tough  sod,  if  it  can  be  secured,  laid  grass  side  down  over  the  drainage  be- 
fore any  loose  soil  is  put  in.  One  may  then  rest  assured  tliat  there  will  net 
be  much  danger  of  poor,  clogged  drainage. 

The  Grape  vine  wdll  thrive  in  many  differing  kinds  of  soil,  though  that  best 
adapted  to  a  vigorous  growth  is  a  fairly  heavy  loam.  A  good  rose  soil  is  all 
right  for  the  grapery.  If  you  have  pasture  land  at  command  containing  good, 
loamy,  virgin  soil  you  may  consider  yourself  fortunate,  for  this  sod  land  is  ideal 
and  lasting.  Some  of  the  most  successful  borders  in  past  years  have  been  made 
with  such  sod  land  laid  into  the  border,  grass  side  down,  without  chopping  or 
breaking  the  sod  more  than  necessary.  The  object  in  using  all  sod  only  is  that 
the  soil  will  last  and  keep  in  a  sweet,  healthy  condition  much  longer  than  ordi- 
nary soil.  Moreover,  the  fibrous  roots  of  the  sod  are  of  much  benefit  and  the  roots 
seem  to  revel  in  it. 

If  we  consider  that  the  success  of  the  years  to  come  depends  upon  this 
preliminary  work  we  readily  realize  that  the  best  of  material  to  be  had  is  none 
too  good  for  the  purpose.  While  these  small  details  may  seem  expensi^•e  to  the 
inexperienced  fruit  grower,  they  are,  nevertheless,  important  factors  toward  pro- 
ducing fruit  of  the  first  quality.  We  will  then  ha\'e  the  satisfaction  of  knowing 
that  the  coal  bill  is  not  higher  for  a  good  crop  of  fruit  than  for  a  poor  one,  and 
that  it  will  not  cost  any  more  labor  to  produce  the  one  than  the  other.  There- 
fore, taking  everything  into  consideration,  I  venture  to  say,  that  money  spent 
on  good  constructive  work  at  the  outset  is  capital  well  invested,  paving  the  way 
to  future  success,  and  the  eventual  returns  will  more  than  repay  for  the  outlay, 
provided  the  borders  get  the  proper  care. 

FERTILIZER    FOR   TME   BORDER 

All  vine  borders  must  be  enriched  with  some  kind  of  manure,  though  no 
hard  and  fast  lines  can  be  laid  down  in  this  respect.  Some  soils  will  take  more 
than  others  to  good  advantage.  But  more  vine  borders  have  probably  been 
damaged  by  overfeeding  than  otherwise.  In  a  border  made  as  described,  the 
vines  will  make  a  rapid  and  luxurious  growth  for  a  year  or  so  with  little  or  no 
manure  added. 

Now  the  question  arises  as  to  the  fertilizing  ingredients  best  adapted  to 
promoting  the  health,  vigor  and  fruit-bearing  qualities  of  the  vines.  Farm- 
vard  manure  has  been  used  more  or  less  for  enriching  the  soil,  though  it  is  a 


VINE  BORDERS  33 

well-known  fact  that  it  deca\s  rapidly;  its  virtue  is  soon  lost  and  it  cannot  be 
recommended  as  an  enduring  manure.  But  as  a  top  dressing,  later  on,  when 
the  vines  are  established,  its  influence  is  remarkable,  either  as  a  surface  dressing 
or  applied  in  liquid  form.  I  have  often  thought,  in  my  work  of  fruit  growing, 
what  a  great  advantage  it  would  be  to  us  if  we  knew  exactly  what  our  soils  were 
composed  of,  for  they  vary  considerably  in  their  composition.  If  all  soils  were 
of  the  same  nature  it  would  be  an  easy  matter  to  say  how  much  to  apply  of  this 
or  that  so  as  to  get  the  best  results. 

Each  and  every  grower  must  feel  his  own  road  to  success  as  to  the  quantity 
of  manure,  feitilizers,  etc.,  he  shall  apply.  The  quantities  recommended  here  shall 
be  small.  I  have  found  through  many  years  of  practical  experience  that  it  is  much 
easier  to  add  than  to  take  away.  I  mean  by  this  that,  as  the  vines  get  thoroughly 
established  after  a  year  or  so,  and  the  roots  are  active,  great  results  may  be  ob- 
tained b}'  systematic  surface  feeding,  not  too  heavy  at  one  time,  as  this  may  burn 
the  roots,  but  by  feeding  often  and  lightly.  This  question  of  feeding  and  en- 
riching the  soil  is  such  a  fundamental  one  and  so  necessary  to  success  that  a 
book  could  be  written  on  that  one  subject  alone.  No  grower  will  be  successful 
to  any  extent  unless  he  makes  a  thorough  study  of  this  important  question  of 
feeding.  There  is  an  old  saying,  that  plants  cannot  talk,  and  this  is  true  in  a 
way,  but  the  close  observer  can  easily  tell  when  the  plant  has  had  all  that  is  good 
for  it.  The  foliage  is  one  of  the  most  expressive  factors  in  plant  life.  All  suc- 
cessful, up-to-date  growers  make  a  careful  study  of  the  foliage  and  its  condition 
and  are  greatly  influenced  thereby.  It  should  have  good  substance  and  feel 
leathery  to  the  touch;  but,  should  it  begin  to  feel  brittle,  then  one  must  be  quick 
to  diminish  the  feeding.  There  are  times  when  our  foliage  has  been  very  unsatis- 
factory through  some  error  of  treatment,  maybe  poor  root  action.  Under  these 
conditions  beware  of  overfeeding.  In  order  to  produce  good  fruit  the  foliage 
must  be  perfect,  every  vein  showing  up  distinctly,  then  the  fruit  will  hnish  up 
accordingly.  But,  as  I  have  previously  remarked,  it  would  be  interesting  for 
this  important  work  to  know  just  what  the  soil  should  contain,  as,  with  this 
knowledge,   we  could  then  supply  the  deficiencies. 

We  do  know,  however,  that  in  order  to  grow  the  Grape  vine  and  fruit  it  suc- 
cessfully, there  must  be  more  or  less  potash  in  the  soil,  according  to  its  nature. 
This  can  be  applied  in  the  form  of  nitrate  of  potash  or  as  hardwood  ashes.  When 
we  have  a  border  which  contains  phosphoric  acid,  potash  and  nitrogen,  we  have 
a  combination  of  food  elements  that  should  prove  satisfactory  for  the  well-being 
of  the  vine.  Bone,  which  contains  phosphate  of  lime,  is  one  of  the  most  val- 
uable fertilizers  for  the  Grape  border,  especially  toward  the  bottom.  Use  half- 
inch  bone  for  this  purpose,  the  lasting  qualities  of  which  are  well  known,  and  in 
the  proportion  of  one  part  of  bone  to  fifty  parts  of  soil,  with  a  sprinkling  of 
potash,  according  to  the  condition  of  the  soil;  the  roots  will  receive 
benefit  from  this  mixture  for  years  to  come.  If  a  good  quality  of  hardwood 
ashes  can  be  procured,  they  may  be  used  to  advantage  for  supplying  the  desired 
amount  of  potash,  taking  about  one-third  less  than  of  the  bone;  the  best  obtain- 
able should  be  secured. 

These  are  all  the  food  elements  necessary  to  put  into  the  lower  part  of  the 


34  FRIMTS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

borcliT,  but  a  great  deal  depends  on  the  nature  ul"  the  siiil.  It  i^' an  easy  matter 
to  prescribe  the  best  soil  lor  the  purpose,  but  unfortunately  the  ideal  is  not  al- 
ways at  hand  though  the  deficiencies  can  be  met  to  some  extent.  Should  the 
soil  be  heavy,  add  a  few  loads  of  old  brick  or  lime  rubbish,  say  at  the  rate  of  one 
load  to  twenty  of  soil  or  anything  to  cause  root  action.  Charcoal  refuse  will 
answer  the  same  purpose.  As  we  near  the  surface  of  the  border  manures  of 
quicker  action  should  be  applied,  such  as  a  fine  grade  of  bone.  1  will  recom- 
mend for  this  purpose  a  complete  fertilizer  for  fruit  under  glass,  which  was 
compounded  a  number  ol  years  ago  by  Mr.  Thomson  of  Chnenfords,  Scotland, 
and  which  still  stands  pre-eminent  as  one  of  the  best  cheniical  fertili'cr^  for  all 
stone  fruit.  1  am  informed,  on  good  authority  that  Tli()nis<in's  \ine  manure 
is  used  more  and  more  every  year  for  fiuit  growing  under  glass.  The  gardener 
who  once  gives  this  manure  a  fair  trial  will  always  thereafter  carry  a  few  bags 
on  hand.  This  may  seem  a  somewhat  strong  recommendation  to  any  one  who 
has  never  used  it,  but  I  can  safely  say  that  Thomson's  manure  is  gaining  new 
friends  ds'cry  year.  Therefore,  a  few  bags  of  it,  for  the  surface,  is  money  well 
invested.  Mix  a  bag  of  1 12  pounds  with  four  wagon  loads  of  soil;  this  should  be 
ample  for  the  top  to  give  the  vines  a  good  start.  But  it  is  onlv  after  the  vines 
are  well  established  that  one  begins  to  value  this  manure  at  its  true  worth 
as  a  top  dressing.  The  vines  need  e\er\'  season  a  light  top  dressing  of  soil 
and  manure.  About  two  pounds  of  vine  manure  to  tiie  square  >ard  will 
give  to  the  surface  roots  something  to  work  on.  Another  light  applica- 
tion may  be  given  after  the  Grapes  are  thinned  out,  if  the  vine  roots  be 
near  the  surface.  Mix  a  little  fine  soil  with  it  and,  in  every  case,  give 
the  border  a  moderate  watering  after  applying  the  dressing.  Should 
the  border  require  a  thorough  soaking,  this  may  be  done  a  day  or  two  before 
the  top  dressing  is  given,  as  a  light  watering  is  preferable  after  appl>'ing 
Thomson's  manure. 

As  I  have  previously  noted,  no  set  rules  can  be  laid  dow  n  for  feeding.  When 
the  vines  depend  wholly  upon  the  inside  border  the\  require  feeding  oftener  than 
w^hen  they  also  have  the  run  of  an  outside  border.  And,  aga'n,  as  the  border 
gets  full  of  roots,  they  will  naturally  require  more  food. 

There  may  be  differences  of  opinion  as  to  the  best  \\a\  of  making  a  border, 
that  is,  whether  the  whole  amount  of  soil  should  be  put  in  at  once,  or  whether 
the  border  should  be  built  up  in  sections,  about  four  feet  wide  to  commence 
with,  and  adding  thereto  as  the  roots  penetrate  through  until  the  border  is 
filled.  This  method  will  work  successfully.  But  as,  in  our  climate,  the 
evaporation  is  rapid  during  the  Spring  and  Summer  months,  this  narrov\  I. order 
requires  water  so  often  that  I  prefer  to  build  the  whole  at  once.  With  perfect 
drainage  and  care  in  watering  during  the  first  season  there  is  not  much  clanger 
of  souring  the  b(jrder. 

As  time  goes  on  and  the  vines  become  thoroughly  established,  the  border 
must  be  overhauled  each  season  before  starting  up  the  house.  A  plentiful 
supply  of  working  roots  near  the  surface  being  desirable,  all  the  loose  soil  should 
be  removed  and  a  top  dressing  applied  which  should  consist  of  about  half  soil 
and   half  rich   farmyard  manure  with  a  light  sprinkling  of  Thomson's   manure 


VINE    BORDERS  35 

and  bonemeal.    This  \\ill  put  tlu'  bt)rdcr  in  good  shape,  and  iiothintr  nioix'  m  the 
\va\'  of  feeding  will  be  needed  until  the  Grapes  are  tliinned. 

WATERING 

It  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  when  the  vines  are  at  rest  the  border  should 
be  allowed  to  get  fairly  dry.  Under  these  conditions  it  is  surprising  to  note  the 
amount  of  water  which  is  required  to  saturate  the  soil  all  through.  Watering 
plays  a  most  important  part  in  the  successful  finishing  up  of  the  crop,  just  as 
much  so  as  does  systematic  feeding.  If  the  vines  suffer  for  want  of  moisture  at 
their  roots  at  any  time  during  their  period  of  active  growth,  the  result  will  be  an 
unsatisfactory  finish,  and  probably  some  of  the  stems  of  the  berries  will  dry  up 
or  get  into  the  condition  known  as  "shanking."  This  serious  trouble  is  brought 
on  through  careless  w-atering,  imperfect  drainage,  careless  airing,  etc.;  more 
often  by  too  dry  a  border  than  through  an  oversupply  of  water,  for  it  will  bear 
repeating  that  Grapes  must  have  abundance  of  moisture  at  their  roots  while  they 
are  in  active  growth  or  at  least  until  they  begin  to  color.  Then  it  is  advisable 
to  withhold  water  somewhat.  The  vines  will  much  appreciate  a  thorough 
soaking  at  their  roots  just  as  they  begin  their  second  swelling;  this  will  be  after 
they  have  completed  their  stoning  period;  at  that  stage  they  should  get  this 
watering  and,  if  necessary,  a  good  feed  as  well.  Liberal  treatment  at  this  stage 
will  considerably  increase  the  size  of  the  berry.  If  this  watering  will  carry  the 
crop  along  until  the  fruit  is  colored,  so  much  the  better,  as  I  do  not  appro\e  of 
heavy  watermg  now,  if  it  can  be  avoided.  The  grower  who  allows  his  Iruit  to 
color  between  waterings  will  get  decidedly  the  best  finish  and,  without  perfect 
finish,  color  and  bloom,  all  our  efforts  will  yield  but  medium  results.  The  expe- 
rienced fruit  grower  takes  much  greater  pride  in  the  color  and  bloom  of  his 
Grapes  than  in  large  bunches;  if  the  two  first  are  lacking,  we  have  erred  some- 
where in  our  work. 

RCX)T   AcmON 

Perfect  root  action  must  be  maintained  to  the  end  that  a  perfect  crop  be 
secured.  If  we  find  no  working  roots  near  the  surface  on  examining  the  border 
a  few  years  after'  having  planted  the  vines,  then  there  is  something  wrong, 
especially  if  the  vines  are  confined  to  inside  borders  only.  It  would  then  be  well 
to  look  for  the  cause  and  remedy  the  evil.  If  we  dig  down  we  shall  probably 
find  only  long,  bare  roots,  instead  of  the  mass  of  fibrous  roots  so  desirable  for 
obtaining  the  best  results,  though  there  may  be  a  few  fibrous  roots  at  the  ter- 
minal ends.  After  clearing  away  the  old  soil  and  renewing  it  with  a  fresh,  open 
soil,  these  roots  may  be  brought  a  little  nearer  to  the  surface  before  covering 
the.m  up  again.  If  there  are  no  fibrous  roots,  with  a  sharp  knife,  cut  nicks  here 
and  there  along  the  bare  roots,  and  young  fibrous  or  feeding  roots  will  develop 
as  a  result  of  those  cuts.  This  operation  should  be  performed  in  the  early  Fall, 
after  the  season's  wood  is  ripened  up,  but  before  the  leaves  drop,  as  then  the 
roots  will  get  a  slight  start.  In  any  case,  the  old  roots  will  callus  where  these 
nicks  are  made,  and  will  be  ready  to  send  out  fibrous  roots  in  the  Spring,  or 
whenever  the  heat  is  turned  on  in  the  house. 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


Grape  Lady   Hutt 
V  new  introductuin.     A  white  Sweetwater  Grape  of  robust  grow  th  and  good  quality. 
Valuable  for  a  late  grapery  as  its  keeping  qualities  are  excellent. 


CULTURAL    DIRECTIONS 


CHAPTER    V 

CULTURAL    DIRECTIONS 
Airing  the  House 

THERE  has  probably  been  more  written  concerning  the  Grape  vine  than 
about  any  other  fruit.  Different  growers  have,  from  time  to  time 
within  the  last  one  hundred  years,  given  valuable  information  and 
cultural  directions,  so  that  it  might  seem  as  if  very  nearly  the  last  word  had 
been  said  as  to  the  wonderful  possibilities  of  the  vine  in  northern  latitudes. 

Where  the  climatic  conditions  are  not  favorable  to  outdoor  culture,  the 
consumer  must  depend  almost  wholly  upon  the  hothouse  product.  But  that 
is  not  the  case  in  this  country,  with  its  wonderful  and  varied  temperatures. 
In  the  United  States  fruits  of  all  kinds  can  be  and  are  produced  outdoors-  even 
in  the  northern  sections.  Splendid  crops  of  Grapes  are  grown  there,  and  the 
same  fruit  that  comes  up  from  the  south  is  well  known.  In  this  land  of  plenty, 
which  Nature  has  showered  with  her  products,  I  hardly  expect  to  see  indoor 
Grape  growing  carried  out  on  any  scale  as  a  commercial  enterprise,  as  the  out- 
door competition  from  all  over  the  country  has  a  tendency  to  militate  against 
its  successful  operation  from  the  money  point  of  view. 

In  Great  Britain  different  conditions  obtain.  There  mammoth  establish- 
ments have  sprung  up  within  easy  distance  of  the  English  metropolis  during 
the  last  thirty  or  forty  years.  The  largest  growers  are  probably  the  Rochfords, 
who  have  nearly  fifty  acres  under  glass,  about  one-half  of  which  is  devoted  to 
the  culture  of  Grapes  for  the  London  market.  This  establishment  alone  produces 
hundreds  of  tons  of  Grapes  every  year.  A  few  years  ago  I  had  the  pleasure  of 
^•isiting  this  wonderful  plant  and  the  sight  was  a  bewildering  one. 

Rapid  advance  has  been  made  here  in  recent  years  in  the  cultivation  of 
hothouse  Grapes  in  private  establishments,  and  the  greater  number  of  the  new 
ranges  now  set  up  include  provision  for  the  production  of  fruit  under  glass.  This 
is  not  surprising  in  view  of  the  high  class  of  fruit  that  can  be  grown  in  this  way. 
There  is,  furthermore,  as  an  incentive,  the  pleasure  our  employers  deri\e  from 
the  products  of  their  own  greenhouses.  Grapes  under  glass,  if  properly  handled 
and  finished  to  the  highest  state  of  perfection,  are  incomparably  superior  to  the 
outdoor  fruit,  for  we  have  all  the  factors  toward  bringing  about  the  best  results, 
such  as  heat,  moisture,  etc.,  and,  above  all,  there  are  no  storms  to  damage  the 
fruit,  so  that  a  bunch  of  Grapes  perfect  in  finish  and  without  a  flaw  may  be  sent 
to  the    dining  table,  and    this  the    millionaire  owner  of  the  house  appreciates. 


38  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

Grape  s^rowing  under  jjlass  is  not  such  an  cxpensixe  lu\ur\  as  it  niiglit  seem 
to  tlic  uninitiated.  Naturally,  it  costs  a  little  more  to  produce  extra  early  fruit; 
still  it  is  this  same  early  fruit  that  is  so  highly  prized.  Some  people  still  ha\e 
the  opinion  that  fruit  grown  under  glass  is  of  interior  quality,  but  the  rich  men 
are  waking  up  to  the  fact  that  Grapes  produced  in  their  own  home  greenhouses 
are  unexcelled  for  beauty  of  appearance  and  richness  of  llavor,  as  they  are  allowed 
to  remain  on  the  \ine  until  fully  matured,  and  are  sent  to  the  table  within  an 
liour  after  being  cut  from  the  \ine.  1  ha\e  heard  it  argued  more  than  once:  \\  lu' 
go  to  the  expense  of  growing  fruit  under  glass  \-ourself,  w  hen  sou  can  purchase 
it  so  cheaply  in  the  open  market.^  But  those  who  ask  such  questions  do  not 
really   know   the   hothouse   product. 

Taking  up  now  the  culture  of  the  Grape  vine  from  the  time  that  the  house 
is  started  until  the  Grapes  are  ripe,  we  are  confronted  with  many  details.  In 
the  first  place,  it  must  be  understood  that  newly  planted  vines  should  not  be 
started  up  until  about  the  first  of  March,  for  so  doing  any  earlier  would  simply 
be  a  waste  of  coal  and  as  well  would  injure  the  young  vines.  It  is  best  to  accli- 
matize the  vines  gradually  to  the  forcing  process.  After  they  have  been  forced 
a  few  seasons,  they  can,  if  necessary,  be  started  in  the  middle  of  December,  and 
with  the  temperatures  that  I  will  give  later  ripe  Grapes  may  be  had  at  any  time 
from  the  ist  to  the  loth  of  May. 

Three  compartments  are  required  for  a  continuous  succession  of  fruit  through- 
out the  season,  one  each  for  early,  midseason  and  late  vaiieties.  With  such  fa- 
cilities at  command  there  should  be  a  steady  supply  of  Giapes  for  at  least  eight 
months  out  of  the  twelve.  If  we  have  our  three  compartments,  the  early  house 
should  be  started  in  the  middle  of  December,  the  midseason  house  in  the  first 
week  of  February,  and  the  late  house  the  first  of  April.  I  recommend  a  mod- 
erate temperature  when  first  starting  a  house,  especially  in  Midwinter,  when 
the  sap  ii  very  sluggish.  It  takes  some  patience  to  go  into  the  house  day  after 
day  and  see  no  apparent  change,  yet  we  are  gradually  acclimatizing  our  ^•ines  to 
their  season's  work,  although  it  takes  a  month  to  detect  the  mo\e.  Under 
these  conditions  beware  of  rushing  on  too  much  heat. 

The  method  I  have  followed  for  many  years  with  success  sufficient  to  recom- 
mend it  is  to  start  w^ith  a  temperature  of  45°  to  50°  at  night,  with  a  rise  of  10° 
during  the  day,  rising  five  degrees  every  twelve  or  fourteen  days  until  65°  is 
reached  at  night  and  75°  by  day.  This  will  be  sufficient  to  carry  the  vines  until 
they  begin  to  bloom.  Then  a  temperature  of  "0°  by  night  and  of  80°  by  day 
is  in  order;  from  this  time  on  nothing  will  be  gained  by  further  raising  the 
temperature. 

AIRING   THE    HOUSE 

At  the  same  time  the  house  should  be  aired.  While  this  mav  seem  a  simple 
operation  to  the  inexperienced,  much  depends  on  the  \\a\  ol  doing  it.  The 
hothouse  plant  is  subject  to  catching  cold  if  not  kept  in  a  fairly  steady  tem- 
perature. The  man  in  charge  of  a  grapery  must  watch  the  airing  very  closely, 
particularly  in  the  Spring  months;  and  the  only  man  adapted  for  this  work  is 


CULTL'RAL  DIRI  OKIN'; 


Grape  Barbaros'^a 


of  this  Grape  is  improved 
er  it  is  ripe. 


40  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

the  one  who  loves  his  calling.  Careless  airing  causes  no  end  of  trouble.  1 
think  that  red  spider  is  more  often  the  result  of  careless  airing  than  of  dryness 
of  the  atmosphere,  though  both  cause  the  spread  of  this  destructive  insect. 

There  are  many  details  to  be  remembered  under  this  head  of  airing,  all  of 
which  must  be  attended  to  in  order  to  grow  and  finish  up  a  house  of  Grapes 
successfully.  During  the  early  forcing,  the  night  temperature  is  regulated  by 
artificial  heat.  Then  the  day  temperature  will  be  from  io°  to  15°  higher,  ac- 
cording to  the  state  of  the  weather.  In  clear  weather  the  day  temperature 
will  naturally  reach  the  higher  mark.  Still,  it  is  not  advisable  to  wait  in  the 
morning  until  the  thermometer  registers  the  day  temperature,  but  put  a  crack 
of  air  on  when  the  temperature  has  risen  about  five  degrees,  gradually  increasing 
as  the  temperature  goes  up.  There  is  one  principle  which  must  be  borne  in 
mind  when  airing,  namely,  never  admit  air  to  the  extent  of  dropping  the  tem- 
perature suddenly.  The  air  should  gradually  be  put  on  and  also  be  gradually 
reduced  so  as  to  have  always  a  fairly  steady  temperatuic.  As  long  as  there  is 
fire  heat  in  the  house  we  can  close  down  so  that  the  temperature  will  rise  a  few- 
degrees,  but  after  the  artificial  heat  is  suspended,  which  will  probably  be  in 
the  early  part  of  June,  leave  a  crack  of  air  on,  for  if  a  house  is  closed  tight, 
with  no  fire  heat  on,  the  condensation  is  too  great,  and  this  may  give  rise  to  mil- 
dew. Mildew  IS  very  destructive  in  a  grapery,  especially  at  that  stage  when 
the  berries  are  small;  the  fungus  seems  to  attack  the  bunches  more  readily  than 
the  foliage,  and  serious  trouble  will  result  when  they  have  become  infested. 
As  the  berries  start  to  swell  they  are  liable  to  crack,  and  as  all  the  split  berries 
must  he  cut  out,  considerable  loss  might  result.  With  fire  heat  it  is  a  good  plan 
to  close  the  grapery  cari\-  in  tiie  afternoon,  allowing  the  temperature  to  e\en  go 
up  to  85°.  When  the  artificial  heat  is  cut  ofi',  howe\er,  then  mildew  will  spread 
very  rap'dly  in  a  tightly  closed  grapery;  but  if  you  always  leave  on  an  inch  or 
so  of  air,  after  the  fires  are  dispensed  with,  that  fungus  can  more  easily  be  kept 
down.  There  must  be  plenty  of  moisture  during  the  day.  Vines  like  a  moist, 
humid  atmosphere. 

From  the  time  a  grapery  is  started  until  the  shoots  are  an  inch  long,  the\ 
may  be  sprayed  to  good  advantage  three  or  lour  times  a  day,  then  twice  a  day 
until  the  Grapes  begin  to  bloom.  After  this  period  it  is  not  necessary  to  spray 
any  more.  If  the  vines  are  sprayed  between  the  time  of  thinning  up  and  color- 
ing, the  berries  may  get  disfigured  with  the  water  lodging  on  them.  The  same 
moisture  and  atmospheric  conditions  can  be  maintained  by  dampening  down  the 
border,  the  walks,  and  the  ends  of  the  houses  or  any  free  space  that  can  be 
sprinkled,  but  keep  the  water  off  the  berries  if  you  want  perfect  finish.  Any 
one  in  the  habit  of'-'spraying  up  to  the  coloring  period  may  think  that  the  red 
spicier  would  now  ha^^e  a  chance  to  get  in  its  deadl\  work,  hut  this  need  nut 
be  if  you  keep  an  even,  moist  temperature.  It  it  the  sudden  changes  in  the 
temperature,  whether  it  be  high  or  low,  which  encourage  the  spread  of  insect 
life.  But  should  the  red  spider  make  its  appearance,  it  must  be  checked 
at  once  and  there  is  nothing  better  for  this  purpose  than  a  light  dusting  with 
powdered  sulphur.  Red  spider  does  not  thri\e  under  this  simple  treatment, 
and  it  should  be  applied  as  soon  as  the  pest  is  detected. 


CULTURAL    DIRECTIONS  41 

Airing  plays  a  prominent  part  in  eventual  success  or  failure.  Grapes  re- 
quire as  much  skill  when  they  begin  to  color  as  at  any  other  time  during  their 
growing  season.  If  they  receive  a  check  from  any  cause  at  this  stage  of  their 
development  they  will  not  finish  up  to  perfection.  It  is  not  wise  to  water  the 
border  at  this  time  if  it  can  be  avoided.  But  this  depends  entirely  on  the  nature 
of  the  soil,  some  soils  drymg  out  much  more  quickly  than  others.  If  a  border 
receives  a  thorough  soaking  when  the  berries  commence  their  last  swelling  it 
ought  to  carry  them  over  their  coloring.  It  is  the  aim  of  fruit  men  to  get  intense 
color  and  finish.  Furthermore,  Grapes  that  color  up  with  perfect  finish  will 
hang  on  the  vmes  after  they  are  ripe  much  longer  than  Grapes  that  ha\c  not 
colored  up  properly. 

Airing  at  this  stage  is  an  important  factor  in  the  coloring  process.  Let  up 
somewhat  on  the  moisture,  keep  a  little  more  bracing  atmosphere.  Start  in 
with  a  small  crack  of  air  on  the  bottom  vents  and  gradually  increase.  The  \ines 
should  have  all  the  fresh  air  possible,  providing  that  the  temperature  is  some- 
where between  75°  and  80°  by  day  and  6,"°  and  70°  at  night.  Bottom  air  should 
not  be  used  at  any  time  through  the  Summer  until  the  Grapes  start  to  color 
for  it  causes  too  dry  an  atmosphere  and  the  l^erries  do  not  seem  to  swell  away 
so  freely. 

It  is  important  to  obser\e  here  that  when  the  border  is  well  iilled  with 
roots,  the  vines  should  receive  their  two  main  feedings, the  first  after  the  Grapes 
are  thinned  and  the  second  as  they  commence  their  second  swelling,  after  com- 
pleting their  stoning  period. 


I-RUITS    AND    \  l-Cl-TABLl-5    l^NDliH    GLASS 


PLANTING    ^'OUNG    VINES 


CHAPTER     V I 

PLANTING    YOUNG    VINES 
Plants  Rooted  from   Eves — A  Correct  Trelli 


VINES  may  be  planted  eitiier  in  the  Fall  or  in  the  early  Sprino;,  accorclino; 
to  circumstances.  I  prefer  the  early  Fall,  as  then  a  little  root  action 
will  take  place,  especially  if  the  vines  are  planted  about  the  end  of 
October  or  the  first  week  in  November.  If  neither  the  houses  nor  the  borders 
are  ready  to  receive  them  at  that  time  it  is  best  to  wait  until  the  turn  of  the 
season,  which  will  be  about  the  first  of  February.  Inquiries  have  come  to  me  at 
different  times  on  the  subject,  and  I  have  always  recommended  early  Fall  plant- 
ing. There  is,  however,  quite  a  difference  of  opinion  as  to  just  the  best  time  and 
some  of  my  correspondents  have  not  been  able  to  understand  the  object  of 
planting  in  the  Fall  and  letting  the  vines  rest  seemingly  dormant  for  months. 
My  opinion  is,  that  of  two  plantings,  one  made  in  the  early  Fall  and  the  other 
about  the  first  of  February,  the  former  would  come  away  the  stronger  of  the  two. 
Such  a  trial  would  be  a  fair  test  of  the  two  methods. 

Canes  which  have  been  grown  one  year  in  pots  and  thoroughly  ripened  are 
the  best  for  planting  in  the  border.  Still,  there  is  a  great  diflerence  in  the  stock. 
I  have  seen  so-called  one-year-old  canes  that  I  would  not  plant  at  any  price. 
Get  the  best  canes  obtainable  and  cut  them  back  to  within  two  feet.  If  they  are 
good,  strong  canes  they  will  be  in  about  nine-inch  pots  and  fairly  well  matted 
with  roots.  These  roots  must  be  carefully  disentangled,  preserving  all  the 
fibrous  roots.  The  safest  way  is  to  knock  them  out  of  the  pots  the  evening 
before  planting  and  to  place  the  balls  in  a  tub  of  water;  the  soil  will  have  fallen 
away  by  the  following  morning  and  the  roots  may  then  be  easily  straightened 
out.  Spread  the  roots  on  the  border  and  co\er  them  with  about  three  inches 
ot  soil.  A  mulch  of  farm\ard  manure  may  be  put  around  the  vines  to  prevent 
evaporation.  Gi\-e  them  a  light  watering  first  to  settle  the  soil  around  the  roots, 
but  do  not  saturate  them.  They  may  be  planted  one  inch  lower  than  they  were 
when  growing  in  the  pot.  Allowing  the  ball  of  earth  to  be  thus  dissolved  may 
seem  rough  treatment,  but  if  you  plant  your  vines  with  the  ball  of  earth  as  they 
are  taken  out  of  the  pot  \ou  will  live  to  regret  it,  for  they  will  make  but  a  poor 
attempt  to  grow.  Another  fact  to  be  considered  when  planting  in  a  newly  made 
border  is  that  it  will  probably  subside  somewhat;  so,  if  the  vines  are  tied  at  all, 
thev  should  be  tied  loosely  so  as  to  allow  for  this  subsidence. 


FRLITS    AND    \  FGI-TABl  i:S    L'NDFR    GLASS 


A  Grape  Vine  Thkuu   Months  Ol 


PLANTING    ^■OUNG    \INES  45 

PLANTS    ROOTED    FROM    EVES 

Another  method  of  planting  wliich  lias  proxecl  successful,  although  it  is  not 
used  to  the  same  extent  as  planting  the  ripened  canes,  may  interest  the  grower 
who  has  a  propagating  house  at  his  command.  This  method  consists  in  plant- 
ing young,  growing  vines.  Root  them  from  eyes  at  the  end  of  January,  grow 
them  along  in  bottom  heat,  pot  on  when  necessary,  up  to  about  six-inch  pots; 
this  will  be  at  the  beginning  or  the  middle  of  May,  if  they  ha^•e  done  well; 
they  may  now  be  set  into  their  permanent  place  in  the  border.  The  only  differ- 
ence between  planting  the  green  vines  and  the  ripened  vines  is  that  the  former 
are  planted  without  having  their  roots  disturbed.  As  these  roots  are  not  pot- 
bound  they  will,  if  the  soil  is  firmed  gently  around  the  ball,  start  off  without  a 
check.     I  ha\  e  seen  wonderful  canes  produced  in  one  season  by  this  method. 

As  to  the  distance  between  the  canes — these  are  generally  planted  b.\-  the 
one  rod  (single  stem)  system.  But  I  have  seen  excellent  results  obtained  when 
two  rods  are  allowed  to  come  away  from  each  plant.  Under  these  circumstances 
they  should  be  planted  eight  feet  apart.  But  it  is  preferable  to  confine  each 
plant  to  one  rod.  The  distance  apart  should  not  be  less  than  four  feet  and  it  is 
better  to  allow  a  little  more.  There  is  nothing  to  be  gained  by  overcrowding, 
and  if  we  consider  that  the  side  shoots  extend,  as  a  rule,  over  two  feet,  we  can 
readily  understand  why  fully  fpur  feet  is  required.  In  a  small  grapery  it  is 
desirable  to  set  as  many  rods  as  possible,  so  as  to  get  the  greatest  returns  out  of 
the  space,  but  if  planted  closer  than  I  recommend,  it  will  be  found  a  poor  propo- 
sition when  it  is  all  too  late  to  make  a  change 

If  the  grapery  is  to  be  a  span  roof  house,  plant  the  vines  as  near  the  wall 
as  possible  on  each  side,  at  a  distance  of  four  feet  or  a  trifle  over,  according 
as  the  space  will  work  out;  for  instance,  for  a  house  50  feet  in  length,  24  canes 
would  be  needed,  12  on  each  side. 

A   CORRECT   TRELLIS 

The  trellis  is  another  quite  important  matter  to  be  considered.  Green- 
house builders  are  apt  to  miscalculate  the  wiring  of  the  house  in  that  the.\-  do 
not  leave  sufficient  space  below  the  glass.  There  should  be  ample  allowance  for 
a  good  circulation  of  air  between  the  foliage  and  the  glass,  otherwise  there  is 
danger  of  burning  from  the  hot  rays  of  the  sun.  There  is  nothing  more  unsightly 
in  a  grapery  than  burnt  foliage,  aside  from  the  serious  damage  incurred.  The 
wires  for  training  the  vines  must  be  from  18  to  20  inches  away  from  the  glass  for 
a  fair  circulation.  It  is  in  the  Spring  and  the  early  Summer,  or  when  there  is 
not  much  air  in  the  house,  that  there  is  danger  of  the  foliage  being  caught  by  the 
hot  rays  of  the  sun.  And,  moreover,  if  the  vines  are  trained  too  near  the  glass, 
ideal  conditions  are  furnished  for  the  spread  of  red  spider,  and  there  Is  nothing 
that  fruit  men  dread  so  much  as  this  pest. 

It  is  a  simple  matter  to  adjust  the  wires  for  training  the  shoots.  Usuallx 
angle  iron  is  run  horizontally  between  the  rafters  as  a  support.  Strong  screw 
eyes,  18  inches  in  length,  may  be  screwed  into  this  angle  iron,  say,  about  one 
foot  apart.     Then  run  wires  perpendicularly;    these  should  first  be  secured  to 


46  FRUITS    AND    \  EGETABl.ES    UNDER    GLASS 

the  cell  plate,  then  passed  throuiih  the  screw  eyes  up  one  side  and  down  the 
other  and  fastened  again  to  the  cell  plate.  The  wires  should  be  a  foot  apart  all 
through  the  house.  No  cross  wiring  is  required  for  a  <>;raper\ .  This,  of  course, 
explains  wiring  for  a  span  roof  house. 


METHODS   OF    PRUNING    THE    VINE 


CHAPTER     VII 


METHODS   OF    PRUNING   THE   VINE 

Treatment  of  ^'oung  Canes— The  Short  Spur    System-The   Long    Rod 
System— Tying   the  Vines — Adventitious  or   Aerial   Roots — 
Keeping   the  Frlit   Healthy 

CORRECT  methods  of  pruning  are  highly  important  for  ultimate  success, 
and  the  first  study  in  this  connection  is  the  condition  of  the  wood. 
Many  a  fruithouse  is  practically  left  to  care  for  itself  after  the  season's 
crop  has  been  gathered.  But  this  is  wrong,  for  the  grapery  must  have  the  same 
care  afterward  as  to  watering  and  spraying  as  was  given  while  the  crop  was 
maturing.  New  fruit  buds  have  to  form  after  the  crop  has  been  gathered,  and 
these  cannot  mature  perfectly  if  neglected  in  any  way.  The  border  should,  of 
course,  be  gradually  dried  off  toward  the  Fall,  bearing  in  mind  that  the  follow- 
ing season's  crop  depends  entirely  on  the  condition  of  this  season's  well  ripened 
wood.  If  the  wood  be  imperfectly  ripened  the  results  will  be  unsatisfactory, 
whether  the  \ines  are  treated  for  the  long  rod  system  or  for  the  spur  system  of 
pruning. 

There  is  a  diflerence  of  opinion  as  to  the  amount  of  frost  which  should  be 
allowed  in  a  grapery.  All  fruit  trees  are  benefited  by  receiving  a  certain  amount 
thereof,  and  I  should  recommend  from  lo  to  15  degrees  of  frost,  providing  the 
wood  has  been  thoroughly  ripened  up;  but  in  very  severe  weather  it  is  advisable 
to  turn  on  the  heat  on  one  side  of  the  house,  leaving  the  pipes  emptj'  on  the  other 
side,  if  the  heating  system  will  allow  of  this.  All  heating  systems  should  be 
arranged  with  a  view  to  such  partial  heating,  and  all  piping  in  fruithouses  should 
by  so  placed  that  the  water  can  be  drained  off  in  the  Fall  without  interfering 
with  any  other  part  of  the  range. 

TREATMENT   OF   'lOUNG   CANES~THE   SHORT  SPUR    S>STEM 

Ha\ing  explained  the  importance  of  fully  ripened  wood  to  work  on,  I  will 
now  pass  to  the  subject  of  young  canes.  The  newly  planted  \ines  should  be 
cut  down  to  about  one  foot  above  the  soil.  These  canes  will  naturally  ha\e 
made  a  strong,  vigorous  growth  the  first  season,  reaching  perhaps  to  the  top  oi 
the  house.  It  will,  to  the  uninitiated,  appear  quite  a  sacrifice  or  even  a  waste 
of  apparently  good  stock  to  prune  them  back  to  four  or  five  feet  from  where  they 


4.S  FRUITS    AND    VHGtrrABLHS    UNDER    GLASS 

were  cut  before,  but  this  operation  will  more  tiian  pay  in  the  long  run,  as  it 
will  lay  the  foundation  of  the  vine  for  all  its  lifetime,  especially  with  regard  to 
the  spur  system,  which  is  the  best  all-around  and  most  generally  employed. 
The  long  rod  system  can  be  recommended  only  for  shy  setting  varieties  or  in 
cases  where  a  few  large  bunches  are  the  aim.  If  the  canes  have  made  an  excellent 
growth  the  first  season,  four  or  five  feet  of  the  new  growth  may  be  left.  There 
should  not  be  more  growth  left  than  will  break  away  strong  and  even.  General 
conditions  and  the  vigor  of  the  plant  should  govern  this  cutting,  as  this  is  the 
tmie  when  the  spurs  will  be  formed  for  another  season.  If  we  can  arrange  it 
so  that  our  spurs  will  be  at  an  even  distance  on  each  side  of  the  cane,  namely, 
about  \y  inches  apart,  and  we  allow  another  four  or  five  feet  of  new  wood  to 
remain  each  year,  until  we  have  the  desired  length  of  cane,  it  should  take  about 
four  years,  if  the  vines  make  a  good  growth  each  year,  for  the  \ine  to  reach  the 
top.     That  is  for  the  spurred  system. 

The  mode  of  bearing  of  the  Grape  vine  is  different  from  that  of  many  other 
kinds  of  fruit  trees.  With  the  majority  of  fruiting  trees  we  can  tell  in  the  Fall 
what  the  prospect  will  be  for  the  coming  season,  as  regards  a  plentiful  supply 
of  fruiting  wood,  but  with  the  vine  it  is  entirely  a  matter  of  conjecture,  for  the 
bunches  will  spring  from  the  young  wood,  sometimes  one  on  a  shoot,  and  again 
as  many  as  three  on  the  same  shoot,  according  to  its  condition  and  vigor. 

While  the  Grape  vine  will  submit  to  almost  any  kind  of  training  desired, 
the  straight  rod  system  is  the  best,  that  is,  allowing  one  rod  to  a  plant.  I  have 
seen  as  many  as  two  or  three  canes  taken  up  from  the  same  root,  training  each 
cane  apart  so  that  the  one  plant  would  cover  a  space  of  about  12  feet  if  three 
shoots  were  taken  up.  But  this  is  not  done  to  an\-  extent  now  and  it  has  no 
advantage  over  the  single  rod  system. 

The  Grape  vine  will  stand  hard  pruning,  especially  when  the  wood  is  well 
ripened,  but  careless  pruning  will  destroy  a  vine  in  a  few  years  if  too  much  of 
the  young  wood  is  left  on.  Such  treatment  will  result  in  long,  ungainly  spurs, 
w^hich  are  very  undesirable.  The  shorter  the  distance  which  the  sap  has  to  travel 
along  the  spurs  the  better.  And  we  must  resort  to  close  pruning  if  we  want  to 
keep  our  spurs  close  to  the  main  stem.  The  object  of  pruning  is  to  produce 
vigor.  In  leaving  two  or  three  buds,  the  terminal  will  come  away  the  strongest 
and  maybe  the  eyes  at  the  back  would  stay  dormant.  Prune  hard  back,  for 
one  well  developed  bud  is  all  that  is  necessary  for  each  spur.  For  by  pruning 
back  to  the  seeming  one  good  eye,  probably  one  or  more  eyes  will  develop  and 
come   away  in    case   of  accident   to    the  one  intended. 

The  Grape  vine  produces,  as  a  rule,  more  bunch  than  is  ad\isable  to  be 
left  on  unless,  for  some  reason,  a  certain  variety  is  shy  in  showing  bunches. 
Some  varieties  will  occasionally  show  queer  streaks.  For  instance,  I  have  seen 
a  Barbarossa  vine  show  bunch  freely  in  some  parts,  and  again  nearly  absolute 
refuse  in  other  places,  or  showing  perhaps  only  two  or  three  bunches  on  a  vine, 
although  otherwise  perfectly  healthy  and  vigorous.  In  a  case  of  this  kind  it 
is  well  to  use  more  potash  on  the  border  and  less  of  other  manure,  as  potash 
promotes  the  fruit  bearing  qualities  of  the  vine. 

The  photograph  shown  on  opposite  page  represents  a  \  inc  about  ten  years  old. 


METHODS    OF    PRUNING    THE    VINE 


A  Grape  Vine,  Showing  -Mei 


50  FRUITS    AND    \  CGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

showing  plaiiil\  the  iiit'tliocl  of  pruning  Iriini  year  to  year,  on  the  spur  system. 
U  such  a  vine  had  not  been  pruned  well  back  each  year  to  one  well  developed 
bud  the  spurs  would  have  been  long  and  ungainly;  the  failure  to  prune  back 
is  also  of  disadvantage  to  the  development  of  the  vine,  for  long  spurred  vines 
will  produce  but  ordinary  Grapes.  Without  doubt,  it  takes  considerable  nerve 
to  cut  a  vine  back  in  this  manner,  for  it  seems  as  though  we  were  leaving  but 
small  possibilities  for  the  production  of  fruit  for  the  following  season. 

To  follow  up  this  method  of  pruning  successfully  it  is  absolutely  necessary 
that  the  wood  be  thoroughly  ripened.  The  practical  fruit  grower  will  know, 
when  pruning,  if  the  wood  is  in  good  shape.  The  test  is  that  the  cuts  in  well 
ripened  wood  will  dry  up  at  once  and  will  look  almost  like  old  wounds  in  a  few- 
hours.  But  should  there  be  a  watery  fluid,  or  what  is  termed  bleeding,  we 
realize  at  once  that  the  wood  has  not  ripened  up  fully.  While  this  bleeding 
will  not  kill  the  vine  it  will  weaken  the  buds  considerably.  However,  as  a 
preventive,  even  when  there  are  no  signs  at  all  of  bleeding,  it  is  well  to  put  some- 
thing on  the  cuts  to  close  up  the  pores.  There  is  a  styptic  preparation  sold  by 
seedsmen,  but  brown  shellac  will  answ-er  the  same  purpose.  Unfortunately, 
when  a  vine  once  begins  to  bleed,  neither  of  these  preparations  will  remedy 
the  evil.  This  trouble  will  generally  be  most  noticeable  when  starting  a  house, 
for  when  the  first  sap  begins  to  flow  large  quantities  of  water  are  taken  up  through 
the  roots,  and  the  probabilities  are  that  the  evil  will  not  be  adjusted  until  the 
canes  commence  to  break  into  growth,  which  action  will,  of  course,  furnish  an 
outlet  for  the  surplus  sap.  But  this  bleeding  will.  In  any  case,  weaken  the  vine 
considerably,  and  fruit  men  will  guard  against  this  e\'il  as  much  as  possible. 
The  best  preventive  is  ripe  wood. 

The  question  naturally  follows:  What  is  the  correct  method  of  securing 
ripe  wood.^  To  which  we  make  answer:  By  keeping  on  all  the  air  possible  after 
the  fruit  is  gathered,  both  top  and  bottom,  gradually  drying  off  the  borders 
as  the  foliage  begins  to  ripen,  and  if  the  vines  can  be  given  a  few  degrees  of 
frost  before  they  are  started  again  for  another  crop  it  will  benefit  them.  Give 
them  treatment  as  near  as  possible  to  that  of  Nature.  Do  not  allow  the  frost 
to  penetrate  at  haphazard,  but  give  them  eight  to  ten  degrees.  To  ripen  by 
coddling   will    produce    poor   results. 

A  grapery  for  late  use,  w-hich  would  be  started  about  the  first  of  April, 
must  be  pruned  long  before  that  date,  otherwise  there  will  be  serious  trouble. 
By  that  time  the  sap  will  be  in  action  and,  even  with  ripe  wood,  serious  bleeding 
would  follow.  Indoor  Grapes  should  not  be  pruned  later  than  the  middle  of 
February  or,  better  still,  a  week  or  so  earlier.  This  refers,  of  course,  to  late 
houses. 

THE    LONG    ROD   S^■STEM 

The  long  rod  system,  is,  as  I  have  said,  not  used  to  any  extent,  but  if  e.xtra 
large  bunches  are  desired  they  may  be  produced  through  this  system,  and  it 
may  also  be  applied  to  varieties  that  are  shy  fruiting.  I  have  in  mind  a  notable 
variety  which  is  not  grown  much  in  this  country,  so  far  as  I  know,  namely,  the 
Duke  of  Buccleuch,  w-hich  has  berries  considerably  larger  than  those  of  Gros 


METHODS    OF    PRUNING    THE    VINE  51 

Colman.  The  finest  bunches  of  this  variety  I  have  ever  seen  were  produced 
by  the  long  rod  method.  Any  other  variety  which  is  shy  in  producing 
bunches  may  be  treated  in  the  same  way. 

In  the  long  rod  system  the  principle  is  to  employ  one  long  cane  as  the 
fruiting  vine,  allowing  another  strong  shoot  to  come  away  from  the  base,  train- 
ing it  up  for  the  following  year's  fruiting  cane.  The  cane  that  produced  the  crop 
of  fruit  is  cut  away  in  the  Fall  and  the  new  one  takes  its  place.  Thus  all  the 
two-year-old  wood  is  dispensed  with.  This  method  is  much  better  suited  for  a 
short  span  house  than  for  a  large  one.  Many  years  ago  this  style  of  treatment 
was  much  in  vogue,  but  experience  has  shown  that  the  spur  treatment  of  prun- 
ing is  the  most  simple  and  will  yield  a  much  heavier  weight  of  Grapes,  although 
the  bunches  may  not  be  as  large  individually  as  those  obtained  by  the  long  rod 
system  of  pruning.  And,  moreover,  so  much  is  lost  as  to  number  of  bunches 
that  the  odds  are  considerably  in  favor  of  the  system  now  used.  Still,  if  you  have 
a  variety  which  is  not  satisfactory  under  the  spur  system,  by  all  means  try  the 
long  rod. 

TYING   THE   VINES 

Young  vines  should  not  be  tied  into  position  before  a  house  is  started,  as 
the  sap  is  liable  to  rush  away  too  freely  toward  the  terminal  buds.  They  may  be 
tied  loosely  along  the  side  of  trellises,  or  they  may  be  tied  half  way  up  in  posi- 
tion and  the  tops  bent  over  and  secured  to  a  stake  in  the  border,  the  object  of 
this  being  to  check  the  sap  somewhat,  so  that  all  the  eyes  will  break  even.  After 
these  difficulties  have  been  surmounted  the  canes  should  be  tied  up  in  their  per- 
manent position  for,  if  the  top  shoots  are  allowed  to  take  the  lead,  they  will  do 
so  at  the  expense  of  the  bottom.  It  is  not  necessary  to  bend  the  canes  down  as 
the  vines  get  larger,  especially  if  they  are  given  a  fair  amount  of  time;  in  other 
words,  do  not  rush  them  with  too  high  a  temperature. 

ADVENTITIOUS   OR  AERIAL   ROOTS 

Much  has  been  said  and  written  from  time  to  time  with  regard  to  aerial 
roots  and  their  cause,  that  is,  roots  produced  all  the  way  up  the  vine  stem. 
This  has  been  attributed  variously  to  the  make  up  of  the  border,' to  imperfect 
root  action,  to  cold,  and  to  poor  drainage,  which  I  have  not  the  least  doubt 
would  bring  about  these  aerial  roots.  I  have  also  seen  them  along  the  stems 
of  vines  that  were  started  early  in  the  season,  w-hile  a  later  house  would  be 
entirely  free  of  them.  The  make  up  of  the  border  and  the  drainage  were  the 
same  in  both  houses,  proving  clearly  that  close  atmospheric  conditions  are 
favorable  to  the  growth  of  air  roots.  When  more  ventilation  is  used  in  late 
Spring  they  perish  and  no  harm  is  seemingly  done  by  their  appearance  when 
they  have  been  brought  on  by  too  close  an  atmosphere. 

In  general,  it  is  impossible  to  give  much  air  during  January  and  February. 
But  should  air  roots  appear  to  any  extent  in  the  late  graperies  where  there  is 
plenty  of  ventilation,  then  there  surely  is  something  quite  wrong.  There  is 
either  poor  root  action,  or  the  roots  are  down  in  a  cold  bottom,  or  both  of  these 


52  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

conditions  oijtain  togetiu-r.  But  when  these  are  present  in  very  early  graperies 
I  am  convinced  that  the  adventitious  roots  are  due  to  atmospheric  causes,  and 
the  blame  should  not  be  put  upon  poor  root  action,  cold  feet,  or  any  other  cause 
outside  of  the  close  atmosphere,  and  for  this  there  is  no  remedy  until  the  warm 
weather  comes  in  the  Spring. 

KEEPING  THE    FRUIT   HEALTLH 

The  housekeeper  is  generally  gauged  by  her  cleanliness  and  orderliness 
and,  similarly,  the  fruit  man.  We  may  produce  fine  bunches  of  Grapes,  but  if 
we  are  negligent  in  keeping  our  houses  clean,  a  fine  bunch  of  Grapes  will  not 
offset  the  insects,  mealy  bug  and  red  spider,  which  \\c  fail  to  keep  down.  To 
maintain  clean  houses  requires  the  most  constant  care.  Insect  pests  can  \ery 
easily  be  carried  into  a  grapery,  but  it  is  not  so  easy  to  eradicate  them  when 
once  they  get  a  foothold.  One  should  be  very  cautious  in  allowing  the  man  who 
has  charge  of  the  fruithouses  to  work  in  the  planthouses,  if  it  can  be  avoided, 
as  tlie  fruithouse  may  easily  become  infected  in  this  way  with  undesirable 
tenants.  Once  they  get  in  Tand  the>-  like  the  atmosphere),  they  will  spread 
rapidly. 

All  fruithouses  should  be  thoroughly-  cleaned  before  starting  them  up, 
even  if  they  already  seem  to  be  clean.  Prevention  is  the  best  cure.  Clean  also 
all  the  loose  bark  from  the  \  ines,  for  if  this  is  allowed  to  remain  on  it  may 
become  a  lodging  place  for  insects.  Do  not,  however,  strip  the  vines  too  much, 
but  pull  away  only  the  loose  bark  that  will  rub  off  easily;  it  will  not  hurt  the 
rod  and  may  save  much  trouble  later.  For  it  certainly  is  difficult  to  eradicate 
these  pests  when  the  vines  are  in  active  growth.  It  is  also  a  good  plan  to  wash 
the  \ines  with  a  solution  of  whale  oil  soap  or  Gishurst's  Compound,  using 
enough  to  make  a  good  lather.  If  these  precautions  are  taken,  the  house  washed 
down,  and  all  the  loose  soil  on  the  border  removed  before  putting  on  the  top 
dressing,  whether  there  are  signs  of  noxious  insects  or  not,  there  is  no  reason  why 
the  grapehouse  and  the  Grapes  to  be  borne  therein  should  not  be  perfectly 
clean.  Aside  from  the  unpleasantness,  Grapes  will  not  keep  for  any  length  of 
time  with  mealy  bug  on  the  bunches,  nor  will  they  finish  up  satisfactorily  .  There- 
fore it  pays  to  be  on  guard  against  all  these  evils  and  to  fight  the  cause  before 
the  enemy  has  had  time  to  enter,  for  the  chances  are  all  in  faxor  of  the  bug  w  hen 
once  he  gets  into  the  bunch. 


DISBUDDING.   PINCHING  SHOOTS,   SETTING  THE  FRUIT 


CHAPTER    VIII 


DISBUDDING.    PINCHING    OR   STOPPING    THE    SHOOTS- 
SETTING  THE    FRUIT 

Pinching  or  Stopping  the  Shoots— Setting  the  Fruit— Red  Spider 

AT  this  stage  the  fruitliouse  becomes  interesting,  for  when  the  vines  once 
Z— \  break  into  growth  they  make  rapid  progress;  so  fast  do  they  come 
along  that  one  can  almost  see  them  grow.  If  everything  goes  well, 
the  fruit  man  is  generally  from  this  time  on  in  his  glory,  watching  the  develop- 
ment of  the  buds.  When  the  bunches  make  their  appearance  and  come  up  to 
or  beyond  expectation  the  work  is  an  alluring  one,  and  the  man  with  a  love  for 
his  calling  will  never  tire  of  attending  to  all  the  details  that  go  toward  bringing 
the  crop  along  successfully.  And  as  we  all  rejoice  more  over  a  perfect  crop  than 
a  poor  one,  it  behooves  us  to  keep  our  grapehouses  in  the  best  possible  condi- 
tion. It  may  seem  a  paradox  to  say  that  it  is  easier  to  produce  a  good  crop 
than  a  poor  one.  The  secret  of  success  lies  in  keeping  the  vines  up  to  full  vigor, 
and  to  accomplish  this  calls  for  good  judgment,  particularly  in  feeding,  for 
when  a  vine  once  loses  its  vitality  it  becomes  a  difficult  problem  to  produce 
first-class  fruit. 

You  take  a  certain  pride  in  showing  \isitors  through  a  range  of  fruit- 
houses  when  they  are  in  the  pink  of  health.  To  note  the  different  houses  as  they 
come  along  in  rotation,  when  one  is  thoroughly  interested  in  this  line  ol  work, 
is  a  pleasure  which  increases  with  each  succeeding  year. 

Attention  to  manj'  and  varied  details  is  required  to  carry  the  work  to  a 
successful  issue.  Disbudding  is  one  of  the  first  operations  to  be  attended  to 
after  the  vines  break  into  growth.  While  it  may  seem  a  simple  operation,  the 
man  who  has  this  work  in  charge  should  understand  all  the  rudiments  of  fruit 
culture  under  glass,  and  particularly  as  applied  to  young  vines.  All  shoots 
not  necessary  may  be  rubbed  ofl".  In  the  young  vines  the  shoots  should  be  left 
as  near  15  or  16  inches  apart  as  may  be,  allowing  for  the  natural  distribution 
of  the  buds  along  the  cane.  As  this  preliminary  work  determines  the  forma- 
tion of  the  spurs  for  many  years  to  come,  it  should  be  entrusted  only  to  a  careful 
man,  one  who  takes  a  real  interest  in  his  work.  If  he  can  manage  to  arrange  it  so 
that  the  spurs  will  average  about  15  inches  apart  on  each  side  of  the  cane,  he  will 
come  pretty  close  to  the  mark,  allowing  one  shoot  to  each  spur.  The  leading  or 
terminal  shoot  should  be  taken  care  of  when  but  a  few   inches  in  length.     Tie 


54  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

it  to  the  wire  lor  support,  lor  tlicsc  shoots  are  apt  to  snap  oil  wlicn  \cry  Muincr, 
and  that  would  naturally  disfigure  and  weaken  them;  we  like  to  see  this  leading 
shoot  make  a  good,  strong  growth,  which  means  stronger  shoots  from  this  lead 
the  following  year.  For  spur  shoots  the  best  time  for  disbudding  is  when  they 
are  about  an  inch  long.  Sometimes  three  or  four  shoots  come  away  at  a  spur; 
under  these  conditions  do  not  take  all  the  surplus  shoots  away  at  one  time, 
but  disbud  down  to  two  shoots,  then  wait  a  day  before  removing  the  other  But 
disbud  to  one  shoot  before  they  get  far  advanced,  as  then  the  full  strength  is 
concentrated  in  the  remaining  shoot.  After  the  house  is  disbudded  to  the 
proper  number  of  shoots,  the  remaining  ones  must  be  handled  carefully,  for  the 
young  shoots  of  the  Grape  vine  are  exceedingly  brittle  and,  when  they  are  growing 
strong,  in  careless  hands  irremediable  destruction  may  be  done.  If  a  shoot  is 
snapped  from  a  spur  it  may  easily  cause  the  loss  of  the  spur.  While  such  a  loss 
may  not  stand  in  the  way  of  a  full  crop,  still  it  means  a  disfigurement  which 
should  be  avoided. 

When  the  shoots  are  disbudded,  they  must  be  tied,  and  this  operation  of 
bringing  them  into  position  requires  as  good  judgment  as  that  of  disbudding. 
The  shoots  naturally  draw  away  toward  the  glass  when  left  to  themselves.  Yet 
they  should  not  be  tied  too  soon.  Allow  them  to  run  until  they  get  near  to  the 
glass,  but  keep  them  away  from  it,  otherwise  the  foliage  is  apt  to  get  damaged. 
Bring  the  shoots  down  to  the  trellis  by  degrees,  and  take  your  time  in  securing 
them  to  their  permanent  positions,  for  when  they  are  a  little  older  they  will  be 
firmer  at  the  base  and  not  so  liable  to  snap.  While  the  shoots  are  being  brought 
down,  the  men  working  in  the  fruithouse  should  be  instructed  to  be  cautious 
in  going  through,  and  not  to  slam  the  doors,  a  bad  habit  that  is  often  found  among 
them  and  of  which  they  should  be  broken.  A  sudden  jar  will  cause  a  vibration 
overhead  which  would  be  liable  to  snap  off  the  shoots  if  they  are  very  brittle. 
The  men  can  work  just  as  fast  with  less  noise.  When  all  the  shoots  are  tied 
down  evenly  the  house  has  a  neat  appearance. 

Shoots  are  sometimes  tied  straight  out,  on  what  is  called  horizontal  train- 
ing. I  do  not  recommend  this  method.  It  is  better  to  have  the  shoots  inclined 
slightly  upward,  the  terminal  ends  being  a  trifle  higher  than  the  base;  this  is  a 
more  natural  position.  A  training  at  an  angle  between  the  horizontal  and  the 
oblique  is  a  good  medium  between  the  two.  Aside  from  the  better  appearance, 
this  angle  is  more  favorable  to  their  growth  than  the  horizontal  position,  especi- 
ally  so    for    weak    growino:   \arietics. 

PINCHING   OR   STOPPING  THE   SHOOTS 

As  regards  pinching  or  stopping  the  shoots,  it  has  been  generally  recom- 
mended to  stop  the  shoots  at  the  first  or  second  joint  beyond  the  bunch.  But 
at  times  the  bunch  will  appear  much  nearer  to  the  main  cane,  and  you  must 
use  your  judgment  whether  to  stop  them  at  one,  two,  or  three  joints  beyond 
the  bunch.  The  shoots  should  be  left  long  enough  so  that  when  full}-  developed 
there  will  be  foliage  sufficient  to  cover  the  entire  roof  or  trellis  without  crowding. 
Bear  in  mind  that  one  perfectly  clc\cloped  leaf  will  count  more  than  two  poor 


DISBUDDING,  PINC:ilING  SHOOTS,  SETTING  THE  FRUIT  55 

ones.  But  perfect  foliage  is  impossible  with  o\  ererowdini;;.  A  fairly  safe 
method  to  follow  is  to  pinch  at  the  second  or  third  leaf,  and  if  the  shoot  is  later 
on  found  to  be  too  long,  another  leaf  can  easily  be  pinched  back.  However, 
it  is  best  to  do  this  while  the  wood  is  still  soft;  the  length  required  may  be  easily 
ascertained. 

Shortly  after  the  shoot  has  been  stopped,  side  shoots  will  appear  along  the 
new  wood,  commonly  designated  as  laterals;  as  soon  as  these  appear  they  should 
be  pinched  at  the  first  leaf.  This  operation  will  have  to  be  repeated  several 
times  throughout  the  season,  according  to  the  thriftiness  of  the  growth,  stopping 


Grape  Alicante 


nous  Grape,  best  ad.-ipted  for  I 
Merit,  third  r;i 


56  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABl  ES    UNDER    GLASS 

at  the  next  leaf,  and  so  on.  Tlie  leading  slioot  sliould  not  be  so  treated  when 
needed  for  the  purpose  of  extending  the  length  of  the  rod,  but  it  should  be  allowed 
to  grow  until  it  begins  to  crowd  into  other  foliage;  then  it  will  be  necessary 
to  pinch  it  and  also  to  stop  the  lateral  growths.  Much  pinching  as  the  Grapes 
begin  to  color  is  not  advisable,  this  being  one  of  the  most  critical  periods  in 
their  culture;  the  least  check  at  this  stage  may  be  productive  of  unfinished  fruit 
and  a  deficiency  of  color.  Fortunately,  just  about  this  period,  the  vines  do 
not  as  a  rule  make  much  surplus  young  growth.  If  the  laterals  are  gone  over 
immediately  before  they  begin  to  color  it  will  carry  them  until  the  coloring  is 
complete.  Then  again,  some  varieties  arc  liable  to  produce  split  berries  at  this 
time  if  a  few  laterals  are  allowed  to  remain  of  a  variety  which  are  subject  to  this 
trouble.  Madresfield  Court,  for  example,  must  be  treated  very  carefully  at 
this  juncture  or  there  will  be  split  berries,  and  this  practically  means  ruination 
to  the  bunch,  as  all  the  split  berries  must  be  cut  out. 

SETTING  THE    FRUIT 

In  regard  to  setting  the  fruit,  the  general  method  of  treating  Grapes  under 
glass  here  is  very  similar  to  that  practiced  in  other  countries  and  climates.  But 
we  have  to  make  some  allowance  for  our  dry  atmosphere  as  against  a  more  moist, 
humid  climate.  I  remember  growing  Grapes  in  a  very  moist  climate,  where 
little  or  no  water  was  allowed  on  the  border  during  the  flowering  period  of  the 
vines.  But  it  is  different  here,  and  we  can  secure  a  better  set  by  damping  down 
the  house  lightly  once  every  bright  day,  even  the  Muscat  house,  provided  the 
atmosphere  is  dry  toward  night.  In  comparing  the  practice  of  Grape  culture 
in  the  eastern  United  States  with  that  of  other  countries,  I  have  maintained 
for  many  years  that  we  must  watch  our  conditions  here  more  closely,  for  the 
simple  reason  that  generally  no  fire  heat  is  used  after  the  first  week  in  June, 
our  temperatures  after  that  date  being  too  high  to  require  artificial  heat.  So, 
as  I  have  said  before,  we  cannot  close  up  the  same  as  with  fire  heat,  on  account 
of  the  danger  of  mildew.  As  soon  as  the  fire  heat  is  dispensed  with,  about  an 
inch  of  air  should  be  left  on  at  all  times.  Or,  before  the  fires  are  shut  down, 
leave  a  crack  of  air  on  to  accustom  the  vines  to  the  air  treatment.  While  Grapes 
like  a  humid  atmosphere,  the  condensation  is  too  great  when  the  house  is  closed 
up  tight  with  no  fire  heat. 

Some  varieties  will  set  much  more  readily  than  others.  It  is  discouraging, 
to  say  the  least,  after  the  Grapes  have  passed  their  blooming  period,  to  see 
certain  varieties  swell  away  uneven,  which  will,  in  this  case,  mean  seedless 
berries  to  a  certain  extent,  and  this  may  become  a  serious  matter  when  there 
are  not  enough  perfectly  fertilized  berries  to  fill  out  the  bunch.  Seedless  berries 
at  their  best  are  small  in  size  and  they  are  liable  to  shrivel  up  or  fall  ofi',  so 
they  are  not  worth  counting  on  at   all. 

Weather  conditions  are  an  important  factor  at  the  llowering  period.  We 
are  all  anxious  to  have  bright  sunshine,  or  at  least  some  sunny  weather  while 
the  vines  are  in  blossom,  even  if  it  lasts  only  from  ten  to  twelve  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  thus  allowing  the  pollen  to  distribute  itself.     Then;   must  also  be  a 


DISBUDDING,    PINCHING    SHOOTS.  SETTING  THE  FRUIT  --,7 

good  bracing  atmospliere,  for  tlie  pollen  cannot  dry  properly  in  a  close,  humid 
air.  A  little  air  should  therefore  be  admitted  e\en  on  dark,  cloudy  days.  This 
can  be  regulated  according  to  the  weather.  If  it  is  cold  outside,  a  little  extra 
heat  will  counterbalance  the  crack  of  air. 

The  pollen  should  be  in  condition  around  ele\en  or  twcKe  o'clock,  noon, 
so  that  a  gentle  tap  of  the  bunch  will  send  it  Hying  in  all  directions.  If  the 
bunch  is  tapped  gently  with  the  fingers  around  mid-day  and  no  pollen  distrib- 
utes itself,  this  ma\  not  affect  results  materially  for  that  day,  but  if  it  occurs 
two  or  three  days  in  succession  then  look  out  for  seedless  berries.  This  applies 
particularly  to  the  Muscats. 

White  Muscats  are  the  finest  of  all  the  hothouse  Grapes.  They  require 
close  attention  during  the  season  of  setting  their  fruit.  The  best  and  most 
successful  way  to  manage  is  to  see  that  the  pollen  gets  dry,  then  each  day,  or 
while  they  are  in  bloom,  go  over  each  bunch  about  mid-day,  separate  and  gi\e 
a  gentle  tap  with  the  fingers.  I  prefer  this  treatment  to  that  of  a  camel's  hair 
brush,  for  the  Grape  vine  flower  is  so  delicate  that  through  its  use  one  is  apt 
to  damage  the  stigmas  or  pistil.  If  a  little  air  is  used  on  the  house,  with  extra 
heat  in  the  pipes,  if  necessary,  a  good,  substantial  set  may  be  obtained  under 
this  treatment,  and  the  seedless  berries  will  be  brought  down  to  the  minimum. 
With  very  free  setting  varieties,  such  as  Black  Hamburg,  a  gentle  shake  of  the 
rod  is  sufficient.  Most  of  the  %arieties  will  set  admirably  in  a  temperature  of 
65°  by  night  and  75°  by  day,  but  Muscats  do  better  with  five  degrees  higher. 

When  the  weather  is  clear  and  the  pollen  has  been  distributed,  the  border 
may  be  slightly  dampened  so  that  it  will  dry  up  before  night.  I  have  followed 
these  methods  now  for  many  years  with  good  success.  It  has  been  the  custom 
with  many  fruit  growers  after  the  fruit  is  all  set  and  has  begun  to  swell  away 
to  spray  the  foliage  again,  both  morning  and  evening,  on  every  clear  day  until 
the  fruit  begins  to  color.  This  is  not  at  all  necessary,  and  may  disfigure  the 
berries  more  or  less;  when  there  is  lime  or  iron  in  the  water,  as  is  often  likel\- 
to  be  the  case,  the  disfigurement  ma\'  be  serious. 

RED   SPIDER 

There  should  be  very  little  danger  of  red  spider  if  the  house  has  recei\ed 
the  proper  care  as  to  damping  down  and  the  keeping  up  of  a  fairly  steady  tem- 
perature, but  if  the  crop  receives  a  check  through  too  much  or  insufficient  heat 
we  are  preparing  the  way  for  an  attack  of  red  spider  and  other  diseases.  In 
growing  Grapes  under  glass  we  cannot  control  the  sun  any  more  than  when 
Nature  takes  care  of  them,  but  we  can  anticipate,  to  a  certain  extent,  the  factors 
making  for  desirable  growth,  as  to  correct  temperature,  moisture,  etc.,  and  if 
we  supply  these  as  needed,  we  may  well  feel  assured  of  satisfactory  results. 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


No.   1-Beiore  Ti 


GRAPE    THINNING 


CHAPTER     IX 


GRAPE    THINNING 

THE  operation  of  thinning  the  Grapes  is  one  requiring  experience  and 
good  judgment.  Before  starting  this  operation  it  is  advisable  to  take 
into  consideration  the  number  of  bunches  it  is  desired  to  carry  on  each 
rod,  as  the  vine  will,  in  general,  produce  many  more  bunches  than  it  should  be 
allowed  to  carry.  \\  hiie  a  vine  in  full  vigor,  would,  if  untouched,  produce  enor- 
mous crops  for  a  few  years,  its  life  would  be  of  short  duration,  and  its  strength 
would  become  exhausted  beyond  the  hope  of  recuperation.  So  it  becomes 
expensive,  in  the  long  run,  to  leave  on  too  heavy  a  crop.  It  is  better  <ind  decid- 
edly more  economical  to  carry  a  fair  average  crop  each  year. 

It  is  impossible  to  state  exactly  how  many  bunches  would  constitute  such 
a  crop,  for  what  would  be  a  fair  crop  for  one  grapery  would  be  an  over-crop  for 
another.  It  all  depends  on  the  conditions.  A  grapery  in  full  \'igor  is  in  con- 
dition to  carry  a  heavier  crop  than  one  of  medium  \igor.  The  bunches,  also, 
often  vary  considerably  in  size,  and  this  factor  must  also  be  taken  into  account. 
I  realize  full  well  that  it  takes  nerve  and  knowledge  to  go  into  a  grapery,  before 
commencing  to  thin  the  berries,  and  to  cut  away  all  the  surplus  bunches,  but 
it  is  imperative  that  this  should  be  done  before  the  thinning  is  started,  it  is 
very  hard  to  estimate  the  weight  of  the  Grapes,  too,  as  the  bunches  do  not  show 
up  to  advantage.  I  admit  that  it  has  the  appearance  of  making  a  great  sacrifice 
to  cut  down  to  the  proper  weight,  especially  if  we  have  to  prune  away  promising 
bunches,  but  it  is  not  safe  to  leave  more  Grapes  on  the  cane  than  can  be  properly 
finished,  and  this  ()\erl6ad  is  not  apt  to  be  detected  b\  the  uninitiated  until 
they  begin  to  color. 

Many  a  promising  house  has  shown  up  well  until  the  coloring  period,  and 
has  then  fallen  off  because  the  grower  had  not  had  sufficient  experience  and 
decision  to  cut  away  his  surplus  bunches.  It  is  too  late  to  do  this  after  the 
Grapes  have  reached  the  coloring  stage,  for  then  the  mischief  has  been  done. 
Overcropping  is  not  always  the  cause  for  Grapes  not  coloring;  neglect  in  many 
another  way  will  bring  about  the  same  result.  But  overcropping  is  a  serious 
cause  and  we  cannot  expect  highly  finished  fruit  under  those  conditions. 

I  will  state  that,  in  a  general  way,  the  crop  in  a  span  roof  house  about  25 
feet  wide,  with  the  vines  in  a  thrifty,  healthy  condition  and  the  rods  fully  grown, 
if  running  from  25  to  30  pounds  to  the  rod,  would  constitute  a  good  average. 
While  this  may  seem  to  some  a  low  ratio,  yet,  for  private  use,  one  perfectly 
finished  bunch  will  count  more  than  two  poor  ones. 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


GRAPE    THINNING  bi 

Grape  thinning  should  be  begun  as  soon  as  tlie  berries  are  known  to  lia\e 
set  perfectlx ,  which  will  be  when  they  are  about  the  size  of  small  peas.  As  a 
test,  if  a  few  bunches  are  thinned  and  the  work  then  stopped  for  some  days, 
the  bunches  so  thinned  will  be  noticeabI>'  ahead  of  the  others,  thus  showing 
plainly,  in  addition,  the  advantage  of  early  thinning. 

Grape  thinning  is  tedious  work,  and  requires  considerable  practice  before 
it  can  be  done  with  speed.  The  younger  the  man  when  he  begins  this  work 
the  more  readily  will  he  be  able  to  grasp  the  required  experience.  A  novice 
looking  at  a  bunch  just  after  thinning,  when  it  appears  to  be  a  mere  skeleton, 
may  think  that  too  many  berries  have  been  cut  away.  A  beginner  seldom 
cuts  out  enough  berries  at  one  thinning,  while  the  experienced  cutter  will  be 
able  to  gauge  the  bunch  the  first  time. 

Then,  again,  there  are  differences  in  varieties;  some  having  short,  stiff 
stems,  such  as  the  close  clustered  varieties  Black  Alicante  and  Gros  Colman. 
Varieties  of  those  types  require  more  thinning  than  others  which  carry  longer 
fruit  stems,  such  as  Barbarossa.  Sufficient  berries  should  be  thinned  out  so  that 
each  individual  berry  has  room  in  which  to  develop  fully.  At  the  same  time, 
the  bunch,  when  fully  ripe  and  cut  from  the  vine,  should  retain  its  natural  shape 
just  as  it  did  when  hanging  on  the  vine.  There  is  nothing  more  disappointing 
than  to  have  the  bunches  spread  apart.  Experience  is  here  the  best  teacher  and 
the  close  observer  will  soon  be  able  to  figure  out  this  important  branch  of  the  art. 

Grape  thinning,  though  tedious,  is  interesting.  The  bunch  must  not  be 
handled  or,  at  least,  the  berries  must  not  be  touched  with  the  lingers.  The 
correct  way  is  to  hold  the  scissors  in  one  hand  and  a  small  stick  in  the  other, 
either  a  straight  stick  or  one  with  a  small  crotch  at  the  end,  so  that  the  parts 
of  the  bunch  can  be  held  more  securely  in  thinning.  The  inexperienced  oper- 
ator who  may  happen  to  be  assigned  to  this  work  side  bj'  side  with  an  expert 
who  has  been  doing  it  for  years,  should  not  strive  to  keep  up  with  the  latter  if 
he  wants  to  thin  his  bunches  to  the  best  advantage,  but  should  rather  go  slow 
at  first.     Speed  will  come  only  from  practice. 

It  is  sometimes  desirable  to  tie  heavy  shouldered  bunches,  and  this 
should  be  done  with  a  small  piece  of  raffia  fastened  to  the  largest  shoulders  and 
eased  up  to  the  cross  wires.  This  may  be  done  before  commencing  to  thin,  as 
it  is  then  easier  to  operate  around  the  bunch,  but  it  is  necessary  only  with  extra 
large  shouldered  fruit.  The  photographs  will  explain  this  work  and  give  a 
good  idea  as  to  how  it  should  be  manipulated. 

An  expert  thinner  can  go  roughly  o\er  such  free  setting  varieties  as  Black 
Hamburg,  Foster's  Seedling,  Alicante,  and  others  of  this  type,  at  first  cutting 
two  or  three  berries  at  a  time,  after  which  he  ma\-  adjust  the  bunch  and  thin 
the  rest  out.  The  main  object  should  be  to  cut  away  the  majority  of  the  berries 
that  are  on  the  inside,  also  all  the  small  berries  or  those  which  appear  to  be 
imperfectly  set;  and  then  to  thin  the  rest  down  to  the  correct  space.  Endea\or 
to  make  the  first  thinning  the  first  and  last,  but  usually  the  bunches  have  to 
be  gone  over  for  a  second  thinning.  W  hile  it  may  seem  a  waste  of  time  to  go 
over  the  work  again,  e\en  an  expert  ma\-  miss  his  calculations  and  find  it  necessary 
to  repeat  the  operation. 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


Grape  Foster's  Seedling 

No.  :i— Same  Bunch  as  Nos.   1  and  2,  Taken  Nine  or  Tfn  Weeks  Later 

White  SwcctwatiT  Grape,  well   adapted  for  early   forcing  or  midseason.  producing  bunches 

larger  than  Buckland  S.veetwater;  otherwise,  quality  is  the  same. 


GRAPE    THINNING 


('i 


Tliere  is  a  wide  dinVrencc  among  the  varieties  as  to  tiie  size  of  their  iaerries. 
Gros  Maroc  and  Gros  Colman  want  more  space  in  which  to  develop  their  berries 
than  does  Black  Hamburg,  and  tiie  latter  again  wants  more  space  than  a  Fron- 
tignan.  For  these  reasons  it  is  essential  that  the  Grape  thinner  become  tiior- 
oughly  familiar  with  the  peculiarities  of  each  variety  under  his  charge.  A  good 
idea  is  to  leave  the  bunch  a  little  thicker  on  the  top  than  below,  as  the  shoulders 
have  a  chance  to  raise  up  somewhat,  but  leave  sufficient  berries  to  close  the 
stem  properly.     This  makes  a  more  perfect  finish  than  bare  shoulders. 

The  photographs  will  illustrate  the  instructions,  as  I  have  laid  them  down. 
No.  I  shows  a  bunch  before  thinning;  No.  2  is  the  same  bunch  a  few  moments 
later;  No.  3  is  the  same  bunch  taken  nine  or  ten  weeks  later,  when  fully  ma- 
tured. Each  berry  was  given  space  sufficient  to  dc\-elop  to  its  full  size,  and 
the  bunch  will  retain  its  perfect  shape  when  cut  from  the  vine. 

In  this  work  of  thinning,  the  obiect  to  be  borne  in  mind  is  to  thin  so  as 
to  allow  for  the  full  de\elopment  of  the  berries,  but  not  so  much  so  that  the 
bunch  will  lose  its  shape  after  being  cut. 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


■mm 


Grape  NL\dresfield  Court 

One  of  the  very  best  Black  Muscats.     Merit,  first  class.     Excellent  yarietx  for  either  early  or 

midseason,  producinsi;  large,  oval-shaped  berries 


COMMERCIAL    GRAPE    CULTURE 


CHAPTER     X 


COMMERCIAL  GRAPE  CULTURE 

IN  ct)untries  wliere  (lutdoor  fruit  is  not  oxcrabunclant ,  commercial  Grape 
growing  has  reached  enormous  proportions  and    mammotii  establishments 

have  sprung  up  to  supply  the  demands  of  the  large  towns  and  surrounding 
districts.  But  in  the  United  States  circumstances  are  different.  Here  we  have 
plentiful  supplies  from  the  South,  where  the  climate  is  so  well  adapted  for  the 
production  of  Grapes,  as  well  as  for  many  other  fruits.  The  Northern  grown 
Grapes  also  flood  the  markets  in  late  Fall.  I  am  well  aware  that  these  are  not 
hothouse  products,  but,  nevertheless,  they  all  help  to  keep  down  prices  to  the 
point  where  there  would  not  be  much  profit  for  the  commercial  grower.  If 
Grapes  could  be  produced  commercially  in  late  Fall  and  held  over  on  the  vines 
(as  they  are  in  climates  where  the  temperatures  are  not  so  fluctuating  or  ex- 
treme) say  till  February  and  March,  when  fruit — or  at  least  Grapes — are  scarce, 
there  might  be  some  encouragement  to  embark  in  commercial  Grape  culture. 
Unfortunately,  however,  owing  to  our  extreme  climatic  changes.  Grapes  cannot 
be  kept  in  first-class  condition  after  about  the  end  of  December;  and  even  at 
that  they  would  have  to  be  the  very  latest  keeping  kinds,  although,  if  I  were 
going  to  make  a  venture  commercially,  I  would  rely  principally  upon  the  early 
varieties.  With  abundance  of  light  and  sunshine,  we  have  unquestionably 
favorable  conditions  for  early  forcing  which  would  enable  us  to  get  fruit  ready 
before  the  glut  came  from  the  South.  By  starting  a  grapery,  say  ist  of  De- 
cember, ripe  Grapes  (such  as  Black  Hamburg,  which  would  be  the  best  for  that 
purpose)  may  be  ready  for  market  by  the  end  of  April. 

It  must  be  borne  in  mind,  also,  that  Grapes  can  be  produced  on  a  large 
scale  at  less  cost  than  when  grown  in  small  quantities.  Ideal  conditions  fcr 
successful  Grape  culture  would  be  a  depth  of  a  couple  of  feet  of  good,  loamy 
soil,  with  a  gravelly  subsoil  to  ensure  good  drainage.  It  would  then  not  be 
necessary  to  prepare  the  border — simply  build  the  grapery  and  trench  over  the 
soil,  adding,  in  doing  so,  a  fair  coat  of  bonemeal;  then  plant  the  vines.  It  would 
be  folly  to  follow  out  this  plan  unless  good  drainage  was  assured;  but  where 
circumstances  are  entirely  favorable  it  would  effect  a  great  saving  of  time,  labor 
and  money.  True,  a  year  or  so  would  elapse  before  many  Grapes  could  be 
gathered,  but  the  commercial  Grape  grower  would  utilize  the  space  in  the  mean- 
while to  bring  in  returns  by  producing  Tomatoes,  with  little  or  no  harm  to  the 
border.      I  am  strongly  of  the  opinion  that  very  early  forced  Grapes  would  be 


66  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

a  better  pa\ing  proposition  than  late  kinds,  for  two  reasons:  A  large  quantity 
of  hothouse  Grapes  are  imported  in  late  Fall  and  through  the  Winter  months, 
the  Europeans,  with  the  advantage,  especially  in  late  Winter,  of  a  more  even 
climatic  temperature,  being  able  to  keep  them  in  better  condition;  while  another 
factor  in  their  favor  is  the  much  cheaper  labor,  which  climinishcs  the  cost  ol 
production. 

It  is  not  my  desire  to  discourage  this  enterprising  and  interesting  occu- 
pation— far  from  it.  Neither  would  I  feel  justified  in  misleading  anyone  to  this 
undertaking.  There  would,  no  doubt,  be  a  brisk  demand  for  well  finished  Grapes 
at  fashionable  seaside  resorts  during  the  season,  for  there  is  no  Grape  that  would 
sell  better  in  the  Summer  and  Fall  months  than  the  Muscat  of  Alexandria,  with 
its  rich  Muscat  flavor  and  general  high  quality.  Then,  for  a  late  Grape  for 
commercial  purposes,  Gros  Colman  is  by  all  odds  preferable  to  any  other,  bearing 
a  handsome  bunch  with  massive  berries.  Other  varieties  might  be  suggested, 
but  there  are  none  that  would  yield  greater  returns  than  those  mentioned. 

A  word  may  be  said  with  regard  to  packing.  Careless  packing  often  results 
in  sadly  disfigured  fruit.  There  is  no  better  receptacle  than  a  bosket  with  an 
open  top,  say  one  which  will  hold  lo  to  12  lbs.  of  Grapes.  Place  some  soft  ma- 
terial on  the  bottom;  then  Ime  with  wax  paper,  folding  it  over  the  fruit  when 
packed,  and  over  all  tie  securely  a  piece  of  strong,  double  paper  which  will  serve 
as  a  lid,  with  the  projecting  handle  as  a  protection  from  damage  during  express- 
age.  By  proper  attention  to  these  details  the  grower  will  reap  his  reward  in  an 
enviable  leputation  and  a  better  demand  for  his  products. 


GRAPES    BEST    ADAPTED    FOR    EARL\-    AND    LATE    USE 


CHAPTER    XI 


VARIETIES  OF  GRAPES  BEST  ADAPTED  FOR  EARLY  AND 
LATE  USE 

Best  Varieties  for  Pot  Vines — Sweetwater  Grapes — Vinous  Group 

THERE  is  an  abundance  of  varieties  to  select  from,  over  one  hundred 
having  been  mentioned  by  different  writers.  I  will  here  give  merely 
a  selection  of  those  which  I  have  found  to  be  the  best  and  most  reliable. 
It  is  absolutely  necessary  to  be  familiar  with  the  quality,  productiveness, 
finish,  etc.,  of  all  the  different  varieties  and  to  fully  understand  all  their  pecu- 
liarities before  full  confidence  can  be  placed  in  them.  I  have  had  more  or  less 
personal  experience  with  most  of  those  that  I  shall  recommend  and  any  careful 
grower  can  handle  them  successfully  and  determine  for  himself  their  good  and 
bad  points.  It  is  easy  enough  to  set  down  a  long  list  of  fruit,  but  then  the  ques- 
tion arises  of  discarding  the  inferior. 

It  is  impossible  for  anyone  to  attempt  to  grow  at  one  time  all  the  varieties 
which  I  am  about  to  describe.  In  a  private  establishment  where  Grapes  are 
grown  only  for  the  table,  twelve  to  fourteen  varieties,  properly  selected,  are 
ample  for  all  purposes,  from  the  early  to  the  late.  This,  again,  depends  on  the 
taste  of  the  owner  or  the  market  demand.  Some  families  may  want  a  large 
variety,  while  others  may  be  satisfied  with  one  sort  if  it  can  be  made  to  last 
through  the  season,  as,  for  instance,  Muscat  of  Alexandria.  But  this  noble 
Grape  is,  unfortunately,  not  a  good  keeper  for  late  use,  and  we,  therefore,  have 
to  resort  to  the  thicker  skinned  kinds.  But  where  Grapes  are  grown  to  any 
extent,  or  where  there  are  three  compartments,  one  each  for  early,  midseason 
and  late  varieties,  all  of  the  midseason  houses  can  well  be  devoted  to  Muscat 
Grapes.  Muscat  of  Alexandria  seems  to  thrive  best  in  a  house  by  itself.  Madres- 
field  Court  Black  Muscat  will  do  splendidly  in  the  early  house,  and  also  in  the 
late  one,  but  it  cannot  lic  depended  upon  to  hang  for  any  length  of  time  after 
it  is  ripe. 

It  is  when  compiling  a  list  of  fruit  for  this  work  that  we  realize  the  wonder- 
ful stability  of  some  of  the  oldest  varieties.  While  new  introductions  are  sent 
out  from  time  to  time,  nothing  has  appeared  to  supersede  the  old  standbys, 
Black  Hamburg  and  Muscat  of  Alexandria.  They  are  as  pre-eminent  today  as 
they  were  in  the  years  long  gone  by.  However,  there  is  a  comparatively  new 
Grape  which  is  making  a  bid  for  popularity,  although  I  ha\'e  not  had  any  expe- 


f)!S  FRUITS  AND  VEGETABLES  UNDER  GLASS 

ricnce  with  it  as  \et.  This  is  a  bhici<  Muscat,  Prince  of  Wales,  said  to  be  an 
excellent  late  keeper  and,  if  so,  there  will  be  room  for  it.  The  improvements 
made  in  the  varieties  of  hothouse  Grapes  are  not  so  far  ad\'anced  as  those  made 
with  other  fruits,  such  as  the  Peach  and  the  Nectarine,  although  valuable  work 
has  been  done  in  this  direction.  Unavailing  attempts  have  been  made  to  eclipse 
Black  Hamburg  and  Muscat  of  Alexandria,  but  the  name  of  the  hybridizer 
who  succeeds  in  surpassing  either  of  these  two  varieties  will  live  throughout 
the  ages. 

My  list  of  Grapes  comprises  varieties  for  early,  midseason  and  late  houses. 
While  it  is  not  necessary  to  have  just  the  quantity  named  in  the  early  and  late 
house,  all  mentioned  will  be  found  adapted  for  the  seasons  recommended.  If 
there  is  but  one  house,  the  selection  for  the  early  house  will  answer  the  purpose, 
perhaps  adding  Muscat  of  Alexandria  and  Gros  Colman. 

The  Early  House. — Black  Hamburg,  Appley  Towers,  Madresfield  Court, 
Foster's  Seedling,  Buckland  Sweetwater,  Royton  Muscat. 

Midseason    House. — Muscat    of   Alexandria. 

Lale  House. — Black  Alicante,  Alnwick  Seedling,  Gros  Guillaume,  com- 
monly known  as  Barbarossa,  Gros  Maroc,  Gros  Colman,  Madresfield  Court, 
Lady  Hutt,  and  if  an  extra  large  bunch  of  white  Grape  is  needed  for  late  use, 
Trebbiano  may  be  added.  This  latter  sort  is  an  excellent  keeper;  but  aside  from 
this  qualification  and  its  large  bunches,  Trebbiano  may  be  classed  as  second  or 
third  rate;    it  may  be  impro\ed  somewhat  by  allowing  it  to  hang  on  the  \ine. 

BEST    VARIETIES    FOR    POT   VINES 

While  quite  a  numl^er  of  the  free  setting  kinds  will  be  found  adaptable 
to  the  pot  treatment  for  fruiting  purposes,  there  are  in  particular  two  or  three 
kinds  which  can  be  handled  with  the  greatest  certainty  of  success.  Black 
Hamburg  is  an  ideal  variety  for  pots,  a  good,  clean  grower  which  presents  no 
difTiculty  whatever  in  securing  a  good  stand  and,  above  all,  it  will  finish  up  to 
perfection  with  decent  treatment.  It  must,  therefore,  head  our  list.  Others 
are  Royal  Muscadine,  Foster's  Seedling,  Madresfield  Court  and  Gros  Colman. 

The  following  list  of  Grapes  may  be  valuable.  I  have  thought  it  best  to 
divide  them  into  three  groups,  namely,  Muscat  varieties,  Sweetwater  varieties 
and  vinous  varieties,  with  a  short  description  of  each.  I  will  repeat  that  it  is 
not  advisable  to  try  too  many  kinds,  but  rather  to  make  a  selection  of  those 
adapted  to  the  different  purposes.  In  compiling  and  grouping  the  list,  I  have 
purposely  discarded  many  sorts,  as  it  would  but  cause  confusion  to  name  all  the 
known  kinds  which  have  been  mentioned  from  time  to  time.  Opinions  may  differ 
as  to  the  value  of  my  list,  but  such  as  I  ha\e  included  are  sufficient  for  all  prac- 
tical purposes  and,  according  to  my  experience,  the  \ery  best  and  most  relial^lc 
for  growing  under  glass. 

MUSCAT    GRAPES 

Muscat  oj  Ale.xandria. — This  Grape  is  well  known  for  its  excellent  qualities, 
both  by  the  grower  and  the  consumer.  The  latter,  especially,  will  always  appre- 
ciate the  high  standard  of  excellence  of  this  noble  Grape.     It  should  be  one  of 


GRAPES    BEST    ADAPTED    FOR    EARL'l     AND    LATE    USE  6,, 

the  leading  kinds  produced  where  there  is  any  pretence  at  Grape  culture. 
Strange  to  say,  it  is  one  of  the  oldest  varieties  and  still  the  best  of  its  class.  There 
have  been  a  number  of  so-called  improved  varieties  begotten  from  it,  but,  so 
far  as  I  know,  Muscat  of  Alexandria  is  in  a  class  by  itself.  While  there  is  no 
Grape  that  will  respond  better  to  good  treatment,  careless  management  will 
surely  bring  on  failure.  This  Grape  may  be  grown  fairly  successfully  in  an  early 
mixed  house,  but  the  best  results  will  be  obtained  by  giving  it  a  house  to  itself, 
for  it  requires  a  longer  season  than  many  other  varieties  before  the  fruit  is  ready 
for  use;    it  also  needs  a  somewhat  higher  temperature,  especially  while  ripening. 

Canon  Hall  Muscat. — If  this  variety  could  be  generally  grown  success- 
full>,  it  would  undoubtedly  be  eagerly  sought  after.  It  is  rich  in  flavor,  the 
berries  are  very  large  and  of  a  deep  amber  color  when  ripe.  But  probably  not 
one  in  twenty  growers  will  make  a  success  of  it.  It  seems  almost  impossible 
to  secure  a  satisfactory  set  and  it  is,  therefore,  disappointing.  While  I  admit 
the  excellent  qualities  of  this  Grape,  I  cannot  recommend  it  highly  because  of 
its  deficiencies  in  setting. 

Bou'ood  Muscat. — This  is  a  variety  of  Muscat  of  Alexandria,  requiring  the 
same  care  and  treatment.  There  is  no  great  difference  noticeable  when  seeing 
them  growing  side  by  side,  although  the  berries  may  be  a  trifle  rounder. 

Royton  Muscat. — This  is  an  excellent  variety  of  Muscat  of  Alexandria, 
with  large,  oval  berries.  It  was  introduced  many  years  ago  and  is  worthy  of 
mention  here.  While  it  has  all  the  good  qualities  of  Muscat  of  Alexandria, 
and  will  grow  well  in  association  with  this  latter,  it  can  be  raised  more  suc- 
cessfully in  a  mixed  house  than  Muscat  of  Alexandria,  its  nature  being  a  trifle 
hardier. 

Madresfield  Court  Black  Muscat. — This  is  one  of  the  very  best  of  the  black 
Muscats  and,  when  well  done,  is  a  truly  noble  Grape,  possessing  large  berries. 
It  has  graced  many  an  exhibition  board  and  has  carried  off  high  honors.  It  has 
stood  the  test  for  at  least  forty  or  fifty  years  and  is  still  one  of  the  leaders  in  its 
class.  Though  it  is  a  Muscat  Grape  it  does  not  require  strong  heat.  Just  as 
good  results  may  be  obtained  with  it  in  a  late  house  as  in  an  early  one.  The 
secret  of  success  is  not  to  allow  any  condensation  to  lodge  on  the  berries  when 
they  begin  to  color,  or  split  berries  will  surely  come,  disappointing  the  grower. 

Mrs.  Pince  Black  Muscat. — This  sort  is  valuable  for  its  late  keeping  qualities; 
it  also  thrives  in  a  late  house,  as  it  does  not  require  a  strong  heat  to  bring  it  up 
to  its  best  form.  It  sets  freely  and  is,  generally  speaking,  a  good  cropper.  Its 
weakest  point  lies  in  its  coloring  qualities,  for  it  seldom  colors  up  satisfactorily. 
Otherwise,  it  is  a  distinct  Muscat  Grape. 

Muscat  Hamburg. — This  variety  has  been  largely  grown  for  many  years. 
It  is  a  bit  difficult  to  handle,  that  is,  in  finishing  up  to  perfection.  In  the  first 
place,  its  setting  qualities  are  not  of  the  best,  for  it  often  produces  a  number 
of  seedless  berries;  then,  again,  it  is  at  times  weak  in  color  and  subject  to  shank- 
ing in  many  places.  It  is  not  altogether  desirable  for  our  climate,  but  for  a  grower 
who  can  finish  it  up  perfectly  it  is  wortiiy  of  a  place.  Some  of  the  best  and  most 
perfect  bunches  produced  ha\e  probably  been  from  vines  grafted  on  Black 
Hamburg. 


70  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

Primi-  of  Wales.— This  is  a  comparatively  new  variety.  Wiiile  I  have  had 
no  personal  experience  with  it  tlie  reports  from  across  the  Atlantic  arc  in  high 
praise  of  the  new  Black  Muscat,  as  a  free  cropper,  easy  doer  and,  above  all,  an 
excellent  keeper. 

SWEETWATER   GRAPES 

Black  Hamburg,  like  Muscat  of  Alexandria,  really  needs  no  special  men- 
tion, being  so  well  known.  It  will  respond  to  any  reasonable  treatment  and  is 
not  nearly  so  exacting  in  this  respect  as  the  Muscat.  Black  Hamburg  is  the 
friend  of  the  amateur  as  well  as  of  the  skilled  grower.  It  will  adapt  itself  to  early, 
midseason  or  late  houses,  but  it  cannot  be  kept  long  in  good  condition  after 
becoming  ripe.  More  of  this  variety  is  probably  grown  throughout  this  country 
than  of  any  other  Grape,  and  it  can  be  relied  upon  to  give  satisfaction  in  every 
respect  as  a  free  cropper,  free  setter,  and  easy  doer. 

Black  Prince. — While  this  variety  cannot  compare  with  Black  Hamburg, 
it  is  still  a  comparatively  easy  Grape  to  grow  and  color  up.  It  ripens  perhaps 
a  little  in  advance  of  Black  Hamburg.     It  is  not  grown  to  any  extent. 

Buckland  Sweetwater. — This  is  a  round,  white  Grape,  ripening  at  the  same 
time  as  Black  Hamburg.  It  is  largely  grown  for  early  use.  At  its  best  the 
berries  are  fairly  large.  While  this  Grape  will  hang  for  some  time  after  ripening 
its  quality  will  be  injured  if  it  is  allowed  to  hang  too  long,  and  the  quality  at 
its  best  is  none  too  good. 

Foster's  Seedling. — This  is  a  strong,  robust  grower  and  an  extremely  free 
setting  white  Grape.  It  is  a  seedling  from  the  Sweetwater  and  apparently 
of  stronger  constitution.  It  can  be  allowed  to  hang  longer  than  the  Sweet- 
water. 

Royal  Muscadine  {White). — This  is  a  free  setting  Grape  with  medium  sized 
berries.  It  is  very  well  adapted  for  early  forcing.  The  bunches  will  hang  for  a 
considerable  time  after  ripening,  a  desirable  quality,  especiall\-  where  there  is 
only  one  grapery. 

Golden  Hamburg. — The  name  itself  would  denote  an  excellent  \ariety  and 
it  was  grown  to  some  extent  in  former  years.  But  the  quality  is  nothing  extra, 
and  it  should  not  be  allowed  to  hang  long  after  being  ripe;  it  is  a  variety  of  no 
great   merit. 

Ladv  Hutt.—  T\us  is  a  late  white  Grape,  adniiraiily  adapted  lor  that  pur- 
pose. It  can  be  held  in  good  condition  until  Christmas  or  the  New  ^ear.  It 
is  a  strong,  vigorous  grower  and  a  free  setter.  The  berries  are  of  medium  size 
and  will  improve  in  flavor  if  left  hanging  on  the  vine  for  some  time  after  ripening. 
Duke  of  Buccleuch. — This  is  one  of  the  largest  berried  Grapes  in  existence 
and,  when  well  done,  is  of  noble  appearance.  But,  unfortunately,  this  variety 
is  very  often  practically  a  failure;  being  a  very  thin  skinned  Grape  it  will  spot 
easily  and  then  begin  to  decay.  Consequently,  it  cannot  be  kept  in  good  condi- 
tion any  length  of  time  after  ripening.  I  have  seen  this  Grape  at  its  best  when 
growing  with  Black  Hamburg.  The  most  perfect  bunches  will  be  found  on  the 
young  wood;    therefore  the  long  rod  system  is  the  best  for  it. 


GRAPES    BEST    ADAPTED    FOR    EARLY    AND    LATE    USE 


CRAi>r  Bi  \rK  Hamrirg 


72  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

VINOUS  GRAPES 

Alicante  (Black). — Formerly  this  was  acknowledged  to  be  the  standard 
!ate  Grape  for  both  private  and  commercial  purposes,  but  in  recent  years  Gros 
Colman  has  outstripped  it  in  favor.  It  is  a  Grape  of  easy  culture,  with  large, 
massive  bunches,  of  excellent  color  and  heavy  bloom.  It  is  an  ideal  variety 
for  exhibition  purposes,  but  the  flavor  at  its  best  is  only  third  rate. 

Alnwick  Seedling. — This  is  valuable  as  a  late  Grape.  Its  keeping  qualities 
are  of  the  best  and  the  bunches  very  handsome. 

Appley  Towers. — This  variety  makes  a  good  companion  to  grow  with 
Black  Hamburg,  as  it  thrives  under  the  same  treatment.  As  it  takes  longer 
to  ripen  its  fruit,  it  is  in  good  form  by  the  time  Black  Hamburg  is  used  up. 
While  it  is  classed  as  a  late  grower  I  can  secure  better  results  with  it  in  the  early 
house  than  in  the  late.  This  Grape  will  hang  for  a  considerable  time  without 
shriveling.  It  requires  thinning  out  fairly  well  in  order  to  allow-  the  berries  to 
expand  to  their  full  size,  which  is  above  the  average. 

Barbarossa,  or  Gros  Guillaume. — This  variety  is  noted  for  its  large,  massive 
bunches.  A  well  finished  bunch  of  Barbarossa  is  a  fine  sight.  Still,  Barbarossa 
has  a  serious  fault:  it  will  at  times  absolutely  refuse  to  show  fruit  while  other- 
wise perfectly  healthy;  on  this  account  it  is  not  advisable  to  plant  more  than 
a  cane  or  so. 

Gros  Maroc. — This  is  a  \  cry  easy  doer  and  is  recognized  everywhere  as  an 
excellent  variety.  The  berries  are  nearly  as  large  as  those  of  Gros  Colman,  but 
cannot  be  kept  so  long  in  good  condition.  With  its  intense  black  and  heavj- 
bloom,  Gros  Maroc  makes  a  picture  for  the  dinner  table  not  easily  forgotten. 

Gros  Colman. — This  is  the  standard  black  Grape  today  for  late  work.  It 
requires  no  particular  treatment,  being  what  one  may  aptly  term  an  every 
man's  Grape.  It  is  a  strong  grower  and  always  full  of  bunches.  It  should  not 
be  started  up  later  than  the  first  of  April  if  it  is  intended  to  finish  up  before  the 
short  days  set  in,  for  it  takes  a  longer  season  to  color  than  do  some  of  the  others. 
Lady  Downs. — Like  Alicante,  this  variety  has  been  relegated  to  the  rear 
in  favor  of  Gros  Colman.  While  it  has  excellent  keeping  qualities  it  is  subject 
to  scalding  under  our  hot  sun,  which  is  a  point  to  its  disad\antage. 

Raisin  de  Calabra. — A  round  white  Grape  of  rather  poor  quality,  but  a 
good  keeper. 

Trehhiano. — This  white  Grape  is  suitable  for  those  growers  who  want  an 
extra  large  bunch  for  late  use.  An  old  acquaintance  of  mine  in  Scotland  once 
produced  a  bunch  weighing  twenty-six  pounds. 

Tokay. — Has  large  white  berries  of  tender  flesh  and  fair  qualitx',  borne  on 
large  bunches.  It  requires  a  fair  amount  of  heat  to  bring  it  up  to  its  l^est.  It 
is  no  longer  widely  grown. 

FroiUisnan  Varieties. — The  Frontignans  were  grown  years  ago.  While 
the  flavor  is  all  that  could  be  desired,  the  berries  and  bunches  are  small  and 
this,  no  doubt,  is  the  reason  why  it  has  been  discarded  to  a  certain  extent.  Its 
tendency  to  shanking  or  shriveling  also  causes  the  grower  considerable  annoy- 
ance. But  the  flavor  of  the  Frontignan  \arieties  is  pleasant.  Grizzly  Frontig- 
nan,  White   Frontignan,  and  Auvergne  Frontignan  are  probably  the  best. 


GRAPES  BEST  ADAPTED  FOR  EARLY  AND  LATE  USE         -3 

Among  the  new  Grapes,  Milton  Constable,  Diamond  Jubilee  and  Lad\ 
Hastings  are  making  bids  for  supremacy'.  The\'  will  have  to  stand  the  test 
of  time  and  experience.  I  pass  no  iudgment  upon  them,  as  I  ha\e  not  had  them 
under  observation. 

Some  five  or  six  years  ago  a  \  ery  uncommon  condition  was  noted  here  in 
a  bunch  of  Grapes  on  a  Black  Hamburg  vine.  ShortI\-  after  the  Grapes  were 
thinned  I  detected  one  bunch  presenting  an  appearance  quite  different  from 
any  of  the  others,  and  when  matured  the  berries  were  as  large  as  those  of  Gros 
Colman,  but  with  no  resemblance  to  the  variety  that  produced  them.  I  raised 
a  few  seedlings  of  this  vine,  and  they  fruited  for  the  first  time  this  (191 1  >  season, 
producing  the  exact  counterpart  of  the  bunch  in  question,  both  as  to  size  of 
berries  and  color,  which  is  an  intense  black.  They  ripened  at  the  same  time 
as  the  Black  Hamburg,  and  the  berries — larger,  if  anything,  than  Colman — 
were  of  excellent  quality.  I  hope  to  have  a  much  finer  lot  in  the  coming  season, 
as  the  \ines  are  much  stronger.  The  foliage  is  altogether  different  from  that  of 
the  parent  \[ne. 


.PE  \  iNE,  30-40  \  EARS  Old,  of  the  Variety  Gros  Guillaume,  on 

Baron  Alfons  de  Rothschild,  Wien,  Germany 
Weight  of  bunches,  3-6  kg.,  even  up  to  10  kg.     Bunches  often 

2?4  X  3)4  '!>•  around. 
V   Moeller-s  Deutsche  Gartner-Zeltung 


Estate  of 
o  in.;  berries, 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


CHAPTER     XII 


INSECTS  AND  DISEASES 

Mealy  Big— Red  Spider— Thrips— Vine  Weevil — Mildew— Scalding 
OF  THE    Berries— Rust— Shanking 

IT  is  absolutely  necessary  for  the  well-being  ol  the  vine  to  keep  a  sharp  lookout 
for  insect  pests,  as  great  damage  can  be  done  in  a  surprisingly  short  time, 
particularly  when  the  foliage  is  tender.  Every  means  must,  therefore,  be 
taken  to  guard  against  those  evils,  which  are  many.  In  the  first  place,  a  grapery 
should  be  used  to  grow  Grapes  in  and  for  nothing  else.  No  plants  with  the  least 
trace  of  insect  life  on  them  should  ever  enter  the  grapery,  for  this  means  bor- 
rowing trouble.  It  is  much  safer  to  keep  all  plants  away  from  that  building; 
even  though  they  may  seem  perfectly  clean  there  may  be  sufficient  insect  life 
hidden  on  them  to  cause  trouble  and  annoyance  for  the  entire  season.  Many 
of  the  most  destructive  insects  are  small  and  not  easily  detected  without  the 
aid  of  a  magnifying  glass.  I  have  at  times  seen  plants  stowed  away  in  graperies 
for  the  Winter  months,  subjects  that  did  not  require  much  heat,  and  from  these 
there  is  probably  not  much  danger  of  insect  life,  but  even  then  there  is  always 
a  certain  risk  involved  when  making  a  storehouse  of  the  grapery.  We  do  not 
treat  the  vines  properly  when  we  accommodate  other  stock  in  the  fruithouses. 
Keep  your  graperies  empty  throughout  their  resting  period;  give  them  all  the 
fresh  air  possible,  with  a  certain  amount  of  frost.  Then  they  will  start  away, 
when  needed,  in  full  health  and  vigor.  But  if  you  coddle  up  your  grapery  when 
the  vines  are  dormant  for  the  sake  of  other  plants  you  run  the  risk  of  insect 
pests  and  kindred  diseases. 

The  treatment  of  insect  pests  and  fungous  diseases  has  been  discussed  b> 
able  writers,  and  it  is  not  my  intention  to  go  deeply  into  this  matter  here,  but 
I  will  point  out  some  preventive  measures.  I  believe  much  of  this  trouble  is 
brought  on  by  climatic  conditions.  In  raising  fruit  with  artificial  treatment, 
we  can  select  the  conditions  best  suited  to  the  welfare  of  the  plant.  For  instance, 
if  a  grapery  receives  a  check  in  the  growing  season,  the  result  will  be  a  crop  of 
mildew  or  red  spider,  or  perhaps  both.  This  is  a  plain  indication  of  neglect,  or 
of  some  fault  of  treatment,  as  careless  airing,  too  dry  an  atmosphere,  or  sudden 
changes  of  temperature.  All  these  ciuse  tiic  spread  of  undesirable  insects, 
with  the   exception   of    mealy   bug,    which   is  one  of  the  most   dreaded  pests  of 


INSECTS    AND    DISEASES  ,"5 

all.  The  humid,  moist  atmosphere  oi'  the  grapelunise  encourages  their  rapid 
increase  and  the  bunches  arc  their  playground.  The  spread  of  mildew  and 
red  spider  ma\    be  checked   by  maintaining  a  steady,  e\'en  temperature. 

THE   MEALY   BUG 

While  it  is  easy  to  check  red  spider,  the  mealy  bug  infesting  the  house  means 
ruination  to  the  crop.  The  best  remedy'  is  wood  alcohol,  applied  before  it  be- 
comes widespread.  Keep  the  alcohol  on  hand  in  the  grapery,  and,  on  the  first 
appearance  of  the  bug,  apply  lightly  with  a  brush.  It  is  not  necessary  to  rub 
the  alcohol  in,  as  you  may  thereby  scorch  the  foliage,  but  a  light  touch  will  do 
no  harm  and  is  quite  sufficient  to  kill  the  bug  coming  in  contact  with  it.  Keep 
the  bottle  tightly  corked  when  not  in  use.  The  best  opportunity  to  fight  this 
pest  is  when  the  house  is  at  rest,  at  which  time  thoroughly  cleanse  the  vines 
and  the  house.  But  even  then  there  may  be  enough  left  to  cause  serious  trouble 
for  ant)ther  year,  especially  if  the  house  was  well  stocked  the  season  previous. 
The  best  time  to  look  out  for  the  stragglers  that  escaped  in  the  house  cleaning 
is  just  as  the  vines  are  breaking  into  growth.  The  bugs  are  then  creeping  from 
their  hiding  places  and  they  should  be  destroyed  at  this  juncture  before  they 
begin  to  multiply,  for,  when  they  once  get  into  the  young  foliage,  they  increase 
so  rapidly  that  it  seems  a  hopeless  task  to  attempt  to  eradicate  them  then. 
Though  there  may  be  a  hundred  and  one  other  things  to  do  in  the  Spring  months, 
yet  half  an  hour  daily  for  a  week  or  ten  da\s  de\-oted  to  fighting  the  bug  will 
be  time  well  spent. 

RED   SPIDER 

Red  spider  has  perhaps  caused  trouble  to  most  growers  of  fruit  under 
glass.  This  diminuti\e  but  powerful  insect  must  be  checked  at  its  first  appear- 
ance or  it  will  soon  do  serious  damage.  While  it  is  almost  invisible  to  the  naked 
eye,  its  destructive  work  becomes  readily  apparent  when  watched  through  a 
magnifying  glass.  It  works  more  on  the  under  side  of  the  foliage  than  on  the 
upper  side.  Its  ravages  can  presently  be  detected  with  the  naked  eye,  for  the 
foliage  where  it  is  at  work  assumes  a  brownish  cast.  If  not  checked  it  will  suck 
the  life  out  of  the  leaves  within  a  short  time  and,  if  let  alone,  might  make  a 
clean  sweep  not  only  of  the  leaves  but  also  of  the  fruit.  Its  appearance  depends 
on  climatic  conditions;  some  seasons  it  may  bother  the  grower  very  little,  while 
at  other  times  it  may  cause  serious  trouble.  A  great  deal  depends  on  the  way 
in  which  the  temperature  is  regulated.  Careless  airing  will  bring  it  on  just  as 
quickly  as  too  dry  an  atmosphere,  or  as  dryness  at  the  root.  Watch  these 
points  and  check  the  spider  on  its  first  appearance.  If  the  vines  cannot  be 
sprayed — and  this  is  not  advisable  after  the  berries  are  half  grown — dust  the 
foliage  over  lightly  with  powdered  sulphur.  On  examining  this  insect  through 
a  magnifying  glass  we  see  that  its  body  has  a  hairlike  texture;  on  this  the  sul- 
phur settles  much  to  its  discomfort.  This  method  of  treatment  is  simple  l)ut 
etfecti'.e. 


76  FRUITS    AND    X'EGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

THRIPS 

Tlirips  is  not  found  in  the  grapcrx  as  often  as  is  red  spider,  but  it  is  %ery 
destructive  when  it  does  appear  and  diflicult  to  eradicate.  It  is  a  long,  slender 
insect  w  iiich  adheres  closely  to  the  foliage,  and  even  spraying  will  hardly  dis- 
lodge it.  It  should  be  cleared  out  at  once.  It  feeds  on  the  foliage  in  a  way 
similar  to  red  spider  and  a  dry,  hot  atmosphere  will  cause  it  to  spread  apace. 
A  mixture  of  sulphur  and  finely  powdered  tobacco,  dusted  ()\er  the  foliage,  is 
effecti\e. 

THE   VINE   WEEVIL 

Another  insect  which  is  at  times  very  troublesome  in  the  early  graper\  is 
the  vine  weevil  (Curculio  vitis).  In  the  larval  state  it  lives  in  the  border,  and 
appears  toward  the  Spring  after  the  foliage  has  come  out  on  the  vine.  It  is  a 
small,  dark  insect,  very  much  like  the  rose  weevil.  If  left  alone  it  will  do  consid- 
erable damage,  eating  holes  through  the  foliage,  thereby  weakening  its  action 
and  disfiguring  it,  for  perfect  foliage  onl\-  is  beautiful.  The  only  remedy  is  to  go 
over  the  foliage  carefully,  picking  the  weevils  out  by  hand.  If  they  are  very 
plentiful,  spread  a  piece  of  muslin  on  the  border  and  then  give  the  vine  a  sudden 
jar  and  they  will  drop  down;  as  they  are  very  nearly  of  the  same  color  as  the 
soil  it  would  be  impossible  to  pick  them  up  if  they  were  allowed  to  drop  down 
without  the  cloth  spread  underneath  the  vine.  In  this  way  one  can  soon  get  rid 
of  them.  The\^  do  not  seem  to  bother  the  late  houses.  I  have  at  times  seen  a 
few  in  a  midseason  house,  but  not  enough  to  cause  trouble. 


Mildew  is  one  of  the  most  serious  of  all  the  fungoid  growths  and,  if  allowed 
to  spread,  it  will  ruin  a  house  of  Grapes  in  a  short  time,  for,  when  once  it  gets 
into  the  berries,  it  will  cause  the  skins  to  harden,  thereby  checking  their  devel- 
opment. The  berries  are  liable  to  split,  and  in  this  way  a  crop  which  otherwise 
might  ha\'e  been  a  good  one  will  be  a  failure.  In  our  northeastern  climate  mil- 
dew is  a  dreaded  fungus;  not  so  much  in  the  early  house  where  we  ha\e  the 
artificial  heat  to  combat  it,  but  it  is  when  the  fire  heat  is  cut  ofl"  that  the  danger 
of  its  spread  increases.  It  all  depends  on  the  conditions,  but  w  hen  once  it  gets 
a  foothold  among  the  foliage  it  is  most  difficult  of  eradication,  and  if  it  is  allowed 
to  get  the  upper  hand,  both  the  foliage  and  the  fruit  will  receive  a  serious  check. 
Never  close  the  house  tight  when  there  is  no  more  fire  heat  to  rely  on — this  is  the 
best  preventive.  Leave  a  good  crack  of  air  on  at  night.  Then,  as  the  tempera- 
ture rises  in  the  morning,  gradually  give  more  air.  Keep  the  house  near  80 
during  the  day,  with  ~o  at  night,  and  gn  e  no  bottom  air  until  the  Grapes 
begin  to  color.  Under  these  conditions,  and  with  a  fairly  steady  tempera- 
ture, there  should  be  very  little  mildew.  In  closing  your  grapery  toward  even- 
ing, allow  the  temperature  to  run  up  the  same  as  with  fire  heat.  You  may 
count  yourself  fortunate  if  you  escape  mildew.  However,  the  \ines  must  be 
gradually   inured  to  this  treatment  and   it  is  advisable  to  accustom  them  to  it 


INSECTS    AND    DISEASES 


-H  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

belore  the  fires  arc  dispensed  with.     But  with  ail  seeming  eare  and  good   judg- 
ment mildew  will  at  times  appear. 

Location  also  plays  an  important  part  as  the  cause  of  this  trouble.  Grap- 
eries along  the  sea  coast  as  well  as  those  located  on  low  lying  ground  are  much 
more  subject  to  mildew  than  are  those  situated  farther  inland.  While  Grapes 
clear  of  mildew  can  be  produced  near  the  sea  coast  they  require  much  closer 
attention.  The  man  who  is  interested  in  growing  Grapes  under  glass  will  watch 
for  the  first  appearance  of  any  unwelcome  visitor.  If  mildew  is  allowed  to  spread 
unchecked,  even  for  two  or  three  days,  the  damage  will  be  great,  but  if  preven- 
tive measures  are  taken  at  once,  giving  a  light  dusting  of  sulphur  to  the 
affected  parts,  it  may  check  the  spread.  In  a  very  severe  case  a  little  sulphur 
may  be  burned.  Procure  a  small  iron  pot  and  an  oil  lamp  large  enough  to 
heat  this  pot,  then  just  burn  a  little  sulphur  in  the  bottom  of  it.  This  must 
be  done  very  carefully.  When  the  air  in  the  house  begins  to  get  too  un- 
pleasant to  stay  in  it,  remove  the  lamp  or  put  it  out;  liave  the  house  closed 
down  and  keep  it  so  closed  for  about  an    hour. 

SCALDING   OF  THE    BERRIES 

Scalding  of  the  berries  is  a  serious  trouble  at  certain  stages,  the  most  dan- 
gerous one  being  at  about  the  period  of  their  stoning.  Sometimes  only  a  berry 
or  two  may  be  affected,  while  at  other  times  an  entire  bunch  may  be  destroyed. 
Some  varieties  are  more  subject  to  scalding  than  others;  Gros  Maroc  will  scald 
in  an  early  house,  but  not  in  a  late  one,  and  both  Muscat  of  Alexandria  and 
Lady  Downs  Seedling  will  scald  easily.  This  is  caused  more  or  less  when  the 
temperature  rises  and  the  sun  strikes  the  berries  while  there  is  moisture  on  them. 
For  these  reasons  the  atmosphere  should  be  watched  carefully  at  the  stoning 
period  of  the  fruit;  particularly  does  this  caution  apply  to  those  in  the  early 
house.  This  scalding  of  the  berries  generally  takes  place  in  the  morning.  While 
the  thermometer  may  not  read  high  the  temperature  between  the  foliage  and 
the  glass  may  be  quite  different;  for  this  reason  the  house  should  be  aired  suf- 
ficiently to  take  the  condensation  off  the  berries  before  the  hot  sun  strikes  them. 


Rust  is  at  times  more  or  less  troublesome.  While  it  does  not  at  first  seem 
to  hurt  the  Grapes  to  a  great  extent,  the  berries  affected  swelling  away  and  devel- 
oping the  same  as  do  those  not  affected,  yet  it  is  eventually  the  cause  of  serious 
disfigurement,  as  the  marks  can  be  plainly  seen  when  they  become  ripe.  Rust 
usually  appears  shortly  after  the  thinning.  It  is  generally  ascribed  to  careless- 
ness in  that  operation;  that  is,  because  the  fingers  have  come  in  contact  with 
the  berries  or,  if  the  man  engaged  in  the  thinning  is  awkward  at  his  work,  allow- 
ing his  hair  to  come  in  contact  with  the  bunch.  As  the  berries  are  then  very 
tender,  the  skin  is  easily  marred,  but  these  marks  will  not  show  until  they  have 
expanded  somewhat.  An  experienced  man  will  guard  against  any  part  of  his 
body  or  clothes  coming  in  contact  with  the  berries,  but  a  novice  will  be  apt  to 


INSECTS    AND    DISEASES  7Q 

twist  around  on  the  stepladder  before  getting  into  position  and  so  may  easilj' 
touch  a  launch  with  his  hair  without  knowing  it.  Tiierefore,  it  is  advisable  to 
guard  against  anything  that  may  bring  on  rust. 

SHANKING 

1  his  disease,  or  wluite\er  one  ma>'  ciioosc  to  term  it,  botiiers  many  growers. 
A  crop  may  look  in  excellent  condition  up  to  the  coloring  period,  and  we  may  i^e 
elated  over  our  good  prospects  when,  all  of  a  sudden,  the  trouble  will  appear. 
It  does  not  take  long  to  detect;  a  few  berries  only  may  be  affected,  or  again  the 
whole  point  of  the  bunch  may  be  lost,  spoiling  its  shape.  It  begins  with  the  dry- 
ing up  of  the  individual  fruit  stem,  then  the  berries  develop  no  further,  either 
in  color  or  in  flavor,  consequently,  all  so  affected  are  sour  and  useless,  requiring 
that  every  berry  with  a  dry  fruit  stalk  must  be  cut  out.  This  shanking  has 
occurred  at  times  with  apparently  perfectly  healthy  vines.  It  is  due  to  different 
causes.  Overcropping  is  a  prevalent  one;  this  occurs  when  more  Grapes  are  left 
on  the  vines  than  the  foliage  is  able  to  develop.  In  a  broad  sense,  shanking  is 
the  result  of  some  overstrain;  either  the  root  or  the  foliage  is  not  performing 
its  proper  functions.  This  serious  trouble  may  be  attributed  to  different  causes — 
destruction  of  foliage  by  insect  pests,  chills  or  sudden  changes  of  temperature; 
also  a  border  with  imperfect  drainage. 

Grapes  should  be  handled  very  carefully  when  tiie\  begin  to  color,  as  a 
check  at  this  stage  may  also  cause  shanking  and,  if  not  that  mischief,  then  a 
deficiency  of  color.  Both  of  these  faults  are  a  sore  trouble  to  the  cultivator. 
When  Grapes  begin  to  color,  more  air  should  be  admitted,  but  not  so  much  as 
to  check  the  crop.  Many  a  crop  of  Grapes  has  been  carried  along  in  full  health 
and  vigor  up  to  this  stage,  and  has  then  fallen  away.  Shanking  is  further  due 
to  various  other  causes:  if  the  roots  get  into  cold  subsoil,  poor  root  action  will 
follow;  excessive  dryness  at  the  roots  when  the  \ines  are  in  full  growth — all 
these  defects  promote  shanking.  If  the  fault  lies  with  poor  root  action,  sour 
border,  etc.,  the  surest  and  best  remedy  is  to  clear  the  \ines  out,  make  up  a  new 
border  and  start  up  afresh.  Vines  which  have  fallen  into  an  unhealthy  condition 
may  at  times  be  brought  around  by  renovating  the  bo'rder.  But  this  would 
be  only  a  halfway  measure,  and  it  is  better  to  replant  than  to  try  to  recuperate 
sickly,  wornout  plants. 


FRUITS    AND    \EGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


CHAPTER     XIII 


KEEPING  QUALITIES  OF  GRAPES— STORING,  PACKING, 
EXHIBITION 

The  Cool  Storehouse —Packing  Grapes  for  Forwarding -Handling 
Grapes  for   Exhibition 

OWING  t(i  our  extremes  of  temperature.  Grapes  with  us  cannot  be  lield 
on  tlie  \ines  as  long  as  in  more  moderate  climates.  In  our  climate 
there  is  often  a  temperature  of  90°  and  over  in  Summer,  with  good 
air.  While  this  is  congenial  to  Grapes  before  they  are  ripe  it  will  not  keep  them 
long  in  good  condition  after  that  condition  is  reached.  Much  again  dep'i'nds  on 
the  keeping  quality  of  the  Grape.  Perfectly  finished  fruit  will  keep  in  a  plump, 
fresh  condition  longer  than  that  imperfectly  finished.  Grapes  which  are  inclined 
to  be  watery  when  ripe,  possessing  a  very  soft  pulp,  cannot  be  held  long  on  the 
vines,  while  berries  which  are  solid,  firm,  and  full  of  sugar,  instead  of  water,  are 
in  much  better  condition  for  hanging  on  the  vines. 

Where  a  steady  supply  is  desired  from  an  early  house,  do  not  plant 
it  all  to  early  kinds,  such  as  Black  Hamturg,  Foster's  Seedling,  etc.,  but 
add  Appley  Towers,  which  would  be  ready  for  use  when  the  earlier  kinds 
were  disposed  of;  include  also  some  Gros  Maroc  and  Muscat  of  Alexandria; 
these  will  follow  the  varieties  above  noted  and  will  fill  in  between  the 
early  and  midseason  house.  If  it  were  possible  to  keep  the  Grapes  in  a  fairly 
steady  temperature  of  about  50°  when  ripe,  they  could  easily  be  held  in  excel- 
lent condition  for  a  couple  of  months.  When  the  fruit  is  ripe  it  is  well  to  shade 
the  house  lightly  either  with  a  permanent  shade  or  by  spraying  some  whitening 
on  the  glass.  This  can  be  done  in  a  few  minutes,  and  if  a  period  of  rain  comes 
on  the  first  shower  will  wash  it  off  and  leave  the  glass  clear,  which  is  better  on 
cloudy  or  wet  days.  I  therefore  prefer  the  whitening  to  a  permanent  shade. 
The  foliage  of  Muscat  of  Alexandria  seems  to  be  injured  by  the  extreme  heat 
of  the  sun  in  Summer,  and  it  should  be  shaded  somewhat  from  its  hot  rays 
though  not  so  much  as  to  exclude  the  light.  Excellent  Muscat  can  be  grown  in 
this  way.  This  Grape  seems  to  be  more  subject  to  sunburn  in  some  localities 
than  in  others  anc',  wherever  this  trouble  is  likely  to  occur,  the  proper  preventive 
measures  should  be  taken  or  the  vines  will  soon  deteriorate;  the  foliage  which 
is  the  life  of  the  plant  must  he  protected. 

In  order  to  keep  Grapes  in  good  condition  all  through  the  Summer  and 
sometimes  into  the  Fall  with  no  fire  heat  at  all,  it  Is  necessary  to  keep  a  clr\. 


KEEPING    QUALITIES  OF  GRAPES— PACKING— EXHIBITION  8i 

bracing  atmosphere,  with  a  fair  amount  of  moisture  at  the  roots,  especially 
when  they  are  depending  altogether  on  the  inside  border.  The  berries  will 
begin  to  shrivel  if  the  border  gets  too  dry.  Toward  the  latter  part  of  the  Sum- 
mer considerable  moisture  appears  to  rise  during  the  night,  even  if  the  border 
is  kept  seemingly  dry,  and  this  will  also  cause  some  of  the  Muscat  berries  to 
decay.  A  light  layer  of  salt  hay  will  overcome  this  difficulty;  the  hay  lying 
close  down  over  the  border  prevents  the  moisture  from  rising.  This  simple 
treatment  will  keep  the  berries  perfectly  dry.  Ripe  Grapes  cannot  be  held  long 
on  the  vines  with  moisture  lodging  in  the  bunches,  especially  the  Muscats. 

That  noble  Black  Muscat,  Madresfield  Court,  is  subject  to  one  serious 
trouble,  namely,  the  splitting  of  the  berries  just  as  they  begin  to  color.  I  have 
overcome  this  difficulty  by  placing  a  coat  of  salt  hay  on  the  border  directly 
under  those  canes,  and  I  time  the  watering  of  the  border  so  that  it  will  not  be 
necessary  to  give  any  at  the  roots  while  this  Grape  is  coloring,  for  the  watering 
in  itself  will  cause  the  berries  to  split.  Madresfield  Court  is  one  of  the  finest 
of  all  the  Black  Muscats  when  well  done,  but,  unfortunately,  its  keeping  quality 
is  poor,  and  it  cannot  be  relied  on  to  hang  on  the  vines  for  any  length  of  time. 

The  late  grapery  is  the  one  we  have  to  depend  upon  for  keeping,  but  even 
with  this  in  view  the  fruit  should  all  be  colored  up  by  the  middle  of  October. 
Gros  Colman  is  one  of  the  standbys  for  late  use;  it  will  keep  in  a  plump,  fresh 
condition  on  the  vines  up  to  the  first  of  January,  and  it  will  improve  in  quality 
by  hanging.  Lady  Hutt  also  has  proved  admirably  adapted  for  late  use,  being 
almost  equal  to  Gros  Colman  in  this  respect.  When  grown  in  a  late  house  it 
is  not  at  its  best  for  table  use  until  about  the  first  of  December,  and  it  improves 
considerably  in  flavor  if  it  hangs  for  some  time  after  becoming  apparently  ripe. 
The  longer  we  can  preserve  the  foliage  the  better  the  Grapes  will  keep;  so,  while 
it  is  not  necessary  to  apply  nearly  so  much  moisture  to  the  roots,  yet  they  must 
not  suffer  from  the  want  of  it,  for  so  long  as  there  is  foliage  on  the  vine  root 
action  is  not  dormant. 

The  ability  to  hold  Grapes  only  until  January  first  may  seem  a  short  period. 
While  in  moderate  climates  they  may  be  held  in  fairly  good  condition  until  the 
middle  of  February,  our  hot  sun  will  often  during  November  and  at  times  in 
December  run  the  temperature  up  more  than  is  good  for  them,  even  though  they 
be  shaded  somewhat,  and  it  is  these  extremes  of  temperature  which  prevent 
holding  them  over  longer  than  I  have  specified.  If  the  Grapes,  after  being  thor- 
oughly ripened,  could  be  kept  at  a  steady  temperature  of  45°,  both  day  and 
night,  with  a  bracing  atmosphere  and  enough  heat  in  the  pipes  to  dispose  of  any 
dampness  during  the  night,  then  we  should  ha\e  the  ideal  conditions  for  hold- 
ing the  Grapes  much  longer  than  is  now  the  case.  But  as  conditions  are  such 
that  we  cannot  maintain  steady  fire  heat,  even  in  the  Fall  at  all  times,  enough 
salt  hay  should  be  placed  on  the  border  to  keep  down  any  moisture  that  may 
rise  from  the  soil;    this  will  prevent  the  damping  of  the  berries. 

THE  COOL  STOREHOUSE 

Grapes  may  be  kept  for  a  long  time  in  a  room  especially  prepared  for  this 
purpose,  but  there  must  be  all  the  necessary  equipments,  for  the  fruit  is  \ery 


82  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

exacting  in  its  requirements,  particularly  so  as  to  temperature  and  dry  atmos- 
phere. Tliis  room  must  ha\e  a  temperature  of  40"  to  45°,  and  the  heating 
arrangements  must  be  such  that  it  can  jjc  turned  on  when  necessary.  The 
room  must  be  perfectly  dry.  It  should  be  so  situated  that  the  sun's  rays  will 
not  penetrate  it,  so  causing  a  fluctuation  in  the  atmosphere,  and  the  doors  should 
be  so  arranged  that  no  outside  air  can  strike  into  the  room  when  they  are  opened. 
A  dry,  close,  dark  room,  built  with  hollow  walls  and  a  double  set  of  doors,  makes 
an   ideal  storehouse. 

The  method  which  is  termed  "bottling"  is  here  described.  Obtain  as  many 
one-quart  bottles  as  there  are  bunches  to  cut,  having  necks  large  enough  and 
long  enough  that  the  wood  can  be  put  in  easily.  Fill  the  bottles  nearly  full 
with  clear,  fresh  water.  Then  cut  the  Grapes  with  enough  wood  to  each  bunch, 
so  that  the  former  will  reach  the  bottom  of  the  bottle  and  still  project  out  of 
the  neck  about  fixe  or  six  inches.  It  is  always  best  to  place  in  the  water  tixe  end 
that  was  cut  nearest  to  the  rod,  but  sometimes  this  is  too  short,  especially  when 
the  bunch  is  near  the  permanent  vine.  In  cases  where  the  end  between  the 
bunch  and  the  rod  is  too  short,  of  course  the  other  end  of  the  wood  must  be  set 
into  the  water.  It  does  not  seem  to  affect  the  keeping  qualities  of  the  Grape 
which  end  of  the  wood  is  set  into  the  water,  providing  there  is  a  clean  cut  at 
the  end  of  the  wood  that  is  placed  in  the  water.  The  only  difference  I  have 
found  is  that  the  bunch  as  a  rule  will  set  better  if  the  end  nearest  to  the  rod  can 
be  secured  long  enough  so  that  it  can  be  placed  in  the  water. 

A  simple  and  inexpensive  way  is  to  arrange  the  bottles  on  shelves  or  racks, 
one  above  the  other  and  far  enough  apart  so  that  the  bunches  will  not  touch 
each  other.  Nail  a  board  along  the  front  of  each  rack  with  notches  six  inches 
apart,  in  which  the  necks  of  the  bottles  are  laid.  These  should  be  placed  at 
such  an  angle  that  the  bunch  of  Grapes  will  hang  clear  of  the  bottle,  while  the 
latter  itself  remains  nearly  full  of  water.  If  the  room  is  dry,  and  a  steady  tem- 
perature is  maintained.  Grapes  can  be  kept  in  good  looking  condition  in  this 
way  until  far  into  the   Spring. 

While  any  one  can  prolong  his  Grape  season  by  this  method  with  the  proper 
care,  yet  I  do  not  recommend  it.  The  Grapes  lose  their  vitality.  While  they 
may  still  be  good  to  look  upon,  after  four  or  six  weeks  in  the  fruit  room  they  will 
have  lost  their  exquisite  flavor  and  most  certainly  also  their  value  as  food  for 
the  invalid.  Grapes  must  contain  saccharine  to  be  good;  when  they  have 
degenerated  into  merely  a  bleb  of  water  they  may  still  have  the  name  but  cer- 
tainly not  the  substance.  Years  ago  I  helped  to  place  many  a  bunch 
in  the  storeroom,  and  have  seen  them  come  out  as  late  as  the  month  of 
April.  At  that  time  Lady  Downs  was  one  of  the  standards  for  late  use, 
and  most  of  the  thick  skinned  varieties  would  submit  to  the  bottle  treat- 
ment. But  of  late  years  I  have  come  to  the  conclusion  that  it  is  best 
to  hold  the  Grapes  on  the  vines  as  long  as  they  can  be  kept  plump.  Then 
close  the  Grape  season  until  the  new  crop  comes  along.  There  is  no  diffi- 
culty in  having  Grapes  eight  months  out  of  the  twelve,  and  with  an  interval 
of  but  four  months  between  seasons  they  will  be  all  the  more  appreciated 
when  they  come  around  again. 


KEEPING    QUALITIES    OF    GRAPES— PACKING— EXHIBITION  83 

PACKING  GRAPES  FOR  FORWARDING 

There  is  another  very  important  point  in  Grape  growing,  especially  for 
private  use;  this  is  the  packing,  for  generally  speaking  large  quantities  are  sent 
away.  The  best  methods  of  packing  should  therefore  be  carefully  studied  so 
that  the  fruit  may  arrive  at  its  destination  in  good  shape.  No  matter  how  fine 
the  bunches  are  when  cut  oif"  the  vine,  carelessness  in  packing  will  ruin  them. 
Fruit  should  be  so  packed  that  it  will  not  move  when  the  box  is  turned  upside 
down  or  roughh^  handled  in  transit. 

Boxes  holding  ten  to  twelve  pounds  of  Grapes  are  better  adapted  for  carrying 
them  in  good  condition  than  are  larger  ones.  The  best  shape  of  box  is  one 
broad  enough  to  hold  the  fruit  in  one  layer,  with  some  soft  material  for  the 
bunches  to  rest  upon.  For  some  years  we  have  been  using  a  sea  grass  for  that 
purpose,  and  have  found  it  very  satisfactory,  being  clean,  light  and  elastic. 
Wrap  each  bunch  separately  in  soft  tissue  paper  and  lay  them  snugly  in  the 
box  with  the  stems  upward;  they  will  fit  in  better  this  way  and  will  also  be  more 
convenient  to  lift  out.  Line  the  box  with  soft  paper;  this  is  to  be  folded  over 
the  fruit.  Then  fill  in  any  crevices  with  sea  grass  or  other  soft  material,  to 
prevent  the  bunches  from  moving.  Grapes  packed  in  this  way  should  be  re- 
ceived at  their  destination  in  good  condition. 

Baskets  may  also  be  used  and  may  be  packed  in  the  same  way.  A  basket 
holding  ten  to  twelve  pounds  is  better  than  one  of  greater  bulk.  When  the 
lid  is  down,  the  fruit  should  be  snug  enough  so  that  it  cannot  move.  Tie  the 
handles  of  the  basket  together  in  an  upright  position;  this  will  prevent  those 
in  charge  of  its  transportation  from  placing  any  other  weight  on  the  basket. 
I  have  sent  away  considerable  fruit  thus  packed  which  arrived  at  its  destination 
in  a  satisfactory  condition.  There  is  nothing  more  discouraging  than  a  report 
of  good  fruit  having  arrived  in  poor  condition,  and  this  is  quite  as  often  due  to 
bad  packing  as  to  unnecessarily  rough  handling  in  transit.  But  if  fruit  is  firmly 
packed  in  soft  and  elastic  material  it  should  safely  stand  a  reasonable  amount 
of  handling. 

HANDLING  GRAPES  FOR  EXHIBITION 

Grapes  for  exhibition  purposes  call  for  the  true  test  of  skill  in  packing.  A 
bunch  of  Grapes  destined  to  grace  an  exhibition  board  must  be  without  a  blem- 
ish. The  bloom,  or  finish,  which  is  the  pride  of  the  fruit  man,  can  never  be 
replaced  if  once  rubbed  off.  An  outsider  may  touch  a  bunch  and  leave  his 
finger  marks  on  it  without  realizing  the  disfigurement  he  is  causing;  therefore 
the  careful  exhibitor  will  not  trust  his  fruit  into  the  hands  of  any  one  else  if 
he  can  possiblj'  avoid  it,  but  will  keep  close  watch  over  it  until  the  judges  have 
passed  upon  it. 

Hothouse  Grapes  are  exhibited  on  stands  made  especially  for  that  purpose; 
these  are  usualh"  covered  with  clean,  white  paper.  The  stand  is  in  a  slightly 
slanting  position  so  that  the  Grapes  will  show  up  to  the  best  advantage.  The 
size  of  the  stand  should  correspond  to  the  weight  of  the  bunches.     The  Grapes 


84  FRUITS   AND   VEGETABLES   UNDER   GLASS 

for  exhibition  sliouici  be  cut  witii  two  or  tiiree  inciies  of  the  wood  attaciied  to 
the  bunch,  giving  a  good  hold  for  tying  on  the  string.  If  the  bunches  are 
large,  a  strong  piece  of  string  is  needed  to  secure  them  on  the  boards.  It  is  a 
good  plan  to  place  the  Grapes  on  the  stands  as  soon  as  cut,  and  if  they  have 
to  travel  far,  a  box  should  be  made  large  enough  to  contain  the  stands  with  the 
Grapes  fixed  thereon.  Make  the  box  wide  enough  so  that  the  stands  will  fit 
one  on  each  side,  with  the  Grapes  facing  each  other.  Secure  the  back  of  the 
stand  to  the  box  with  a  screw  to  keep  it  from  shifting.  The  box  must  be  kept 
as  nearly  on  a  level  as  possible.  It  may  be  a  little  more  troublesome  to  trans- 
port the  Grapes  in  this  way,  but  they  are  liable  to  be  more  or  less  marked  if 
carried  in  baskets.  And  e\en  w  hen  they  are  shipped  on  the  stands  the  exhibi- 
tor should  tra\el  \\ith  them,  lest  any  harm  befall  them,  since  it  is  his  pride  to 
show    them    perfect    in    all    respects. 


GRAPE    VINES    CULTIVATED    IN    POTS 


CHAPTER     XIV 


GRAPE  VINES  CULTIVATED  IN   POTS 

GRAPE  vines  have  been  cultivated  in  pots  for  many  years.  Toward 
the  end  of  the  i-th  century  Speechley  of  Welbeck  Abbey,  England, 
practiced  this  method  of  cultivation.  But  it  seems  that  very  little 
advance  was  made  from  his  day  until  about  the  middle  of  the  last  century. 
From  that  time  on,  however,  the  cultivation  of  the  vine  in  pots  has  increased 
rapidly.  This  method  requires  great  skill  and  close  attention  in  order  to  pro- 
duce high-class  fruit.  Furthermore,  not  all  Grapes  will  adapt  themselves  to 
this  treatment.  A  shy  setting  variety  will  be  a  failure.  Black  Hamburg  is 
probably  one  of  the  best  as  a  pot  vine,  and  any  other  of  the  free  setting  kind 
will  respond  to  this  method.  Muscat  of  Alexandria  is  a  complete  failure  for 
pot  culture. 

There  are  many  things  to  be  said  in  favor  of  the  pot  \ine.  In  the  first 
place,  we  can  secure  ripe  fruit  earlier  by  two  or  three  weeks  than  from  vines 
planted  in  the  border,  as  having  the  roots  under  our  control  we  can  ripen  the 
wood  up  earlier  in  the  Fall  and  they  can  therefore  be  again  early  started  into 
growth.  Besides,  the  roots  are  in  a  position  to  get  practically  the  same 
temperature  as  the  top.  Therefore,  if  very  early  Grapes  be  our  object,  the  pot 
system  will  find  its  place.  And,  again,  if  a  fruit  range  is  being  set  up  for 
private  use,  the  owner  generally  wants  to  secure  results  at  once,  and  the  two 
or  three  years  required  for  a  border  seems  a  long  time  to  wait. 

While  a  couple  of  bunches  may  be  allowed  to  remain  on  each  cane  during 
the  second  year,  if  all  has  gone  well,  still  the  pot  vine  w  ill  be  of  great  assistance 
during  the  first  two  years.  Without  these  one  is  apt  to  overcrop  the  young 
permanent  vines,  which  is  a  serious  mistake,  and  the  consequences  are  diffi- 
cult to  overcome.  I  wish  to  impress  upon  the  beginner  in  Grape  culture  the 
tolly  ol  o\ercropping  young  vines  in  a  grapery  which  is  intended  to  last  for  a 
number  of  years. 

Grape  vines  for  fruiting  in  pots  are  raised  from  eyes,  the  same  as  those 
intended  for  the  border.  Plants  for  fruiting  purposes  must  be  good,  strong 
canes.  Generally,  only  a  few  vines  are  needed  for  private  use,  and  it  is  far 
better  to  purchase  them  direct  from  the  specialist  in  that  line  than  to  attempt 
to  grow  them  one's  self  in  a  house  with  other  plants  where  the  temperature 
and  moisture  would  not  agree  with  them.  I  have  also  seen  attempts  made  to 
grow  young  canes  in  the  permanent  grapery  and,  while  the  atmospheric  condi- 
tions here  would  be  all  that  could  be  desired,  there  is  the  one  serious  drawback 


86  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

of  lack  oi"  sufficient  sunlight.  This  makes  it  impossible  to  produce  satisfactory 
canes.  If  the  grower  has  a  small  house  at  command,  with  plenty  of  heat,  sun- 
light, moisture,  etc.,  and  can  devote  it  wholly  to  the  young  vines,  ti\en  there 
is  no  reason  why  he  should  not  be  able  to  grow  first  class  canes. 

Grape  vines  may  be  grown  from  eyes  struck  in  January,  if  given  extra 
good  treatment  during  the  Spring  and  Summer  months,  so  that  the  cane  will 
be  strong  enough  for  fruiting  the  following  season.  Be  sure  to  get  the  wood 
thoroughly  ripe,  and  here  a  good,  light  house  with  plenty  of  sun  will  show  results. 
I  do  not  greatly  believe  in  the  drying  system;  neither  should  the  pots  be  allowed 
to  get  dust  dry  at  any  time.  While  at  rest,  with  no  foliage  to  draw  on  the  mois- 
ture, they  require  very  little  water  at  the  root;  but  when  the  plant  has  only  the 
pot  to  depend  on  for  moisture  at  the  root  this  drying  process  may  be  overdone. 
I  have  often  noticed  that  when  the  soil  in  the  pot  was  kept  just  on  the  moist 
side  the  roots  looked  much  "  happier"  than  when  extra  dry.  The  Grape  vine 
fruits  freely  in  the  open  air,  while  not  going  through  the  drying  process;  this 
should  be  a  lesson  to  us. 

While  vines  of  sufficient  strength  may  be  grown  in  one  season  to  bear  fruit 
the  following  year,  yet,  if  there  is  any  doubt  as  to  their  strength,  it  is  far  better 
to  cut  them  back  again  to  three  or  four  eyes,  and  then  grow  on  the  second  year. 
If  properly  cared  for,  the  vines  will  make  extra  strong  material  for  fruiting. 
This  is  what  we  call  two-year-old,  cut-back. 

Pot  vines,  when  well  grown,  make  a  handsome  showing,  but,  if  neglected 
in  any  way,  they  are  a  miserable  failure.  A  fairly  rich  compost  should  be  given 
from  five-inch  pots  up;  a  compost  of  sod  land,  plentifully  supplied  with 
fibrous  roots  through  the  sod,  is  good  for  pot  work.  The  soil  need  not  be  too 
heavy,  for  the  growing  vines  require  a  liberal  supply  of  water.  Add  to  this  sod 
one  third  part  of  well  decayed  farmyard  manure,  with  a  sprinkling  of  bone  and 
three  or  four  pounds  of  Thomson's  vine  manure  to  an  average  wheelbarrow 
load  of  soil.  This  will  make  a  fairly  good  compost  for  the  vines.  If  it  is  too 
heavy,  add  some  charcoal  and  sand,  lime  rubble,  or  anything  that  will  keep 
the  soil  open  and  porous.  If  this  compost  is  of  such  a  nature  that  it  can  be 
used  in  a  fairly  rough  state,  the  vines  will  root  very  rapidly  through  it  and  make 
a  quick  luxuriant  growth.  They  must  be  repotted  before  they  get  in  any  way 
pot-bound,  or  they  will  get  a  severe  check.  As  the  vine  is  a  liberal  feeder,  plenty 
of  space  must  be  provided  for  the  roots.  The  correct  shift,  as  a  rule,  is  from 
three-inch  into  five-inch,  from  five-inch  into  seven-inch  and  from  seven-inch 
into  nine-inch,  and,  if  started  very  early,  they  may  receive  another  shift  into 
eleven-inch  or  twelve-inch  pots.  In  this  latter  case  the  canes  should  be  strong 
enough  to  produce  a  crop  of  Grapes  the  following  season.  But  if  the  eyes  are 
started  later,  potting  up  to  a  nine-inch  pot  is  all  that  is  necessary,  although 
this  kind  of  stock  would  have  to  be  held  over.  Cut  back  during  the  Winter  to 
within  a  few  inches  of  the  pot,  then  grow  on  again  another  season.  Under 
this  treatment  the  vines,  soon  after  they  have  been  introduced  to  heat  and 
before  they  break  into  growth,  may  be  taken  out  of  the  pots,  the  old  soil  reduced, 
and  repotted  in  pots  of  about  the  same  size,  or  smaller,  if  necessary.  Then,  as 
the  roots  get  active  again,  repot  up  to  twelve-inch  pots.     The  main  object  in 


Repkesentinc   Method   of    Pot    Culture 
The  advantage  of  producing  Grapes  in  pots  is  that  ripe  Grapes  may  he  obtained  in  April,  whereas, 
when  planted  in  the  border.  May  is  as  early  as  one  can  hope  to  have  ripe  fruit  for  use 


88  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

doing  this  is  to  get  perfect  drainage,  a  porous  soil  and,  above  all,  lirm  potting, 
all  these  being  important  factors  in  the  welfare  of  pot  vines.  Have  the  potting 
soil  of  the  same  temperature  as  the  soil  in  which  they  are  growing.  While 
this  operation  may  seem  troublesome,  still  it  is  best  for  the  plant.  After  the 
vines  have  received  their  last  shift,  which  will  be  some  time  in  June,  when  the 
roots  have  worked  through  fairly  well,  surface  dressing  can  be  applied  either 
in  the  way  of  top  dressing  or  liquid  manure,  or  both,  for  a  good,  rich  soil  and 
systematic  feeding  are  required  if  the  Grape  vine  is  to  reach  the  highest  type 
of  perfection.     And  an  inferior  Grape  is  not  worth  striving  for  in  pot  culture. 

Watering  plays  a  very  important  part  in  the  success  or  failure  of  Grape 
culture;  but  this  should  not  be  done  in  a  haphazard  way.  When  in  full  g'rowth 
and  vigor  the  vines  require  a  liberal  supply  of  water  at  their  roots  at  all  times. 
The  young  roots  being  soft  and  full  of  sap,  any  drying  process  during  their  growth 
is  apt  to   cause  a  serious  check. 

As  regards  feeding,  the  fruiting  canes  will  naturally  take  more  food  to 
good  advantage  than  the  young  canes,  as  will  be  explained  later.  The  young 
vines  may  be  sprayed  two  or  three  times  a  day  when  the  weather  is  favorable. 
They  like  a  moist,  humid  atmosphere  during  their  growing  season. 

Vine  eyes  should  be  rooted  and  started  along  with  bottom  heat  of  about 
75°,  with  atmospheric  temperature  of  about  70  ,  or  75  with  sun  heat.  As 
the  season  advances,  the  temperature  can  be  increased.  With  out  hot  sun, 
bottom  heat  can  be  dispensed  with  in  the  late  Sprmg.  The  young  vines  will 
make  rapid  headway  without  its  assistance,  in  a  temperature  of  70  by  night 
and  80°  by  day.  Keep  the  house  chaiged  with  moisture  until  the  canes  com- 
mence to  ripen  up,  and  then  graduallv  admit  more  aii,  with  less  moisture  to  the 
roots  and  atmosphere. 

Different  methods  are  used  for  training  the  vine  for  fruiting.  Probably 
the  one  most  in  vogue  is  to  coil  the  cane  around  stakes,  four  or  five  feet  high, 
driven  into  the  soil,  three  or  four  around  the  side  of  the  pot;  or  the  cane  may  be 
trained  to  one  center  stake  to  a  height  of  3  or  4  ft.  with  a  trellis  on  top  similar 
to  that  used  for  training  a  standard  Chrysanthemum.  Such  training  makes 
a  neat  appearance,  and  the  bunches  are  formed  where  they  can  receive  more 
light  and  air  than  if  trained  in  a  coil.  In  preparing  the  young  canes  for  fruiting, 
they  may  be  grown  in  a  light  house,  with  one  stake  to  each  vine,  setting  them  far 
enough  apart  to  allow  the  sun  and  air  to  get  around  them.  Do  not  crowd  them 
in  any  way,  but  secure  the  young  vines  to  the  stake  as  they  grow.  A  still  bettei 
location  is  a  small  span  roof  house.  Here  train  the  young  vines  up  a  trellis, 
i5  or  18  inches  from  the  glass  on  each  side,  in  such  a  position  that  the  buds  will 
ripen  to  perfection.  The  lead  should  not  be  stopped  until  grown  to  the  desired 
length,  which  will  be  from  eight  to  ten  feet,  according  to  the  strength  of  the 
cane.  As  the  laterals  make  their  appearance,  they  may  be  stopped,  as  recom- 
mended for  permanent  vines.  The  wood  must  be  thoroughly  ripened,  for  even 
if  the  canes  are  strong,  they  will  be  of  no  use  if  they  are  soft  and  pithy.  I  would 
rather  have  small  canes  than  strong  ones  which  have  not  gone  through  the 
ripening  process.  Properly  ripened  canes  should  present  no  difficulty  if  they 
have  been  grown  through  the  Summer  months  in  the  full  sun.     When  they  are 


GRAPE    VINES    CULTIVATED    IN    POTS  89 

full  grown,  gradually  give  more  air  and  less  moisture  until  toward  Fall,  at 
which  time  air  should  be  admitted  freely  both  night  and  day,  and  they 
should  receive  considerably  less  water  at  the  roots,  although  the  latter  should 
not  suffer  from  lack  of  it.  The  temperature  of  the  house  will  count  as  much  as 
anything.     Maintain  a  dry,  bracing  atmosphere  when  ripening  the  wood. 

Fruiting  canes  which  it  has  taken  two  years  to  produce  must  be  started  mto 
growth  with  a  fairly  low  temperature,  like  that  recommended  for  permanent 
vines.  If  they  are  started  at  too  high  a  temperature,  they  are  apt  to  come 
away  weak.  Give  them  time  and  they  will  more  than  repay  for  it  later.  Attend 
to  the  repotting  when  needed,  but  do  not  pot  too  late  in  the  season,  for  it  is  much 
better  to  have  them  well  rooted  when  they  are  finishing  up  their  growth.  They 
will  not  need  repotting  when  started  again  for  fruiting.  Keep  room  for  top 
dressing.  During  their  resting  period  they  can  be  pruned  and  the  canes  shortened 
when  necessary.  If  the  canes  are  strong  and  thoroughly  ripened  wood,  eight 
feet  will  be  none  too  much,  but  if  they  are  weak,  six  feet  is  better. 

The  pot  vine  finds  its  place  in  fruiting  and  ripening,  especially  for  early 
work.  If  Grapes  are  desired  in  April,  those  in  the  permanent  house  would  have 
to  be  forced  more  than  is  good  for  them,  and  even  then  it  is  a  question  if  ripe 
fruit  can  be  obtained  by  the  first  of  May,  whereas  with  pot  vines  there  is  no 
difficulty  in  having  ripe  Grapes  by  the  middle  of  April.  Sometimes  a  couple 
of  weeks  will  count  a  great  deal,  where  money  is  no  object,  providing  that  the 
results  are  forthcoming. 

The  varieties  best  adapted  for  pot  work  are  Black  Hamburg,  Foster's 
Seedling,  Royal  Muscadine,  and  Black  Alicante.  The  last  named,  while  having 
all  the  free  setting  qualities  and  being  a  strong,  robust  grower,  takes  a  much 
longer  season  to  ripen  its  fruit,  and  then  it  is  of  poor  quality;  so  it  may  be  omitted 
if  early  fruit  is  the  object.  I  have  seen  fairly  good  Madresfield  Court  Grapes 
grown  under  this  treatment. 

Pot  Grape  vines  for  fruiting  may  be  started  toward  the  end  of  November, 
provided  they  have  been  prepared  for  this  early  start  by  having  the  vines  ripened 
up  some  time  in  advance,  as  all  fruit  must  have  a  period  of  rest  between  crops. 
In  order  to  obtain  the  best  results,  bring  them  along  gradually,  at  first  in  a 
temperature  of  45°  to  50°  by  night  with  an  increase  of  10°  or  15  during  the 
day,  according  to  the  weather.  Then  gradually  raise  the  temperature  as  the 
buds  begin  to  swell,  or  use  the  treatment  recommended  for  permanent  vines, 
as  to  temperature,  atmosphere  and  airing. 

When  the  pot  vines  arc  first  brought  into  heat,  they  should  receive  one 
good  watering,  and  no  more  until  it  is  absolutely  necessary,  for  as  there  is  no 
foliage  to  draw  the  moisture,  watering  at  the  roots  must  be  done  with  judg- 
ment in  the  beginning.  Keep  them  on  the  dry  side  until  they  have  started 
into  growth;  as  the  foliage  gets  more  plentiful,  increase  the  moisture,  and  from 
that  period  until  fully  ripe  they  should  not  suffer  for  lack  of  water.  If  a  vine 
flags  for  want  of  moisture  at  the  roots,  give  it  a  good  soaking;  the  foliage  will 
revive  and  look  bright  and  happy  again,  within  a  few  hours.  But  if  this  should 
occur  often,  the  crop  would  be  a  disappointing  one  as  to  finish,  and  some  of 
the  stems  would  probably  shrivel  up  or  shank.     This  would  take  all  the  pleasure 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


and  glory  out  of  the  work.  However,  if  a  pot  vine  is  properly  handled,  in  a 
twelve-inch  pot,  it  should  yield  eight  to  ten  pounds  of  Grapes,  especially  with 
systematic  feeding  with  both  top  dressing  and  liquid  manure.  For  the  top 
dressing  Thomson's  vine  manure  is  ideal.  Use  eight  or  ten  parts  of  soil  to  one 
part  of  Thomson's  manure,  and  apply  about  a  good  handful  to  a  pot  whenever 
it  seems  necessary.  The  most  successful  time  to  feed  is  after  the  Grapes  are 
thinned,  and  again  as  they  commence  to  swell  away  after  stoning.  Of  course 
they  will  need  light  feeding  between  these  periods,  but  do  not  feed  them  while 
they  are  coloring. 

It  is  not  often  necessary  to  repot;  in  fact,  they  will  do  better  if  they  can  be 
carried  through  successfully  with  the  aid  of  feeding  and  top  dressing  only.  But 
sometimes  there  may  be  a  pot  which  does  not  look  happy,  through  some  unfore- 
seen cause,  and  it  then  may  be  necessary  to  repot  it.  The  best  time  to  do  this 
is  just  as  the  fruit  is  set,  for  at  this  stage  the  vines  appear  to  make  roots  rapidly, 
and  this  gives  them  a  better  chance  to  recuperate  quickly. 


PEACHES    AND    NECTARINES 


CHAPTER    XV 


PEACHES  AND  NECTARINES 

Budding —  Houses  Best  Adapted  for  Growing   Purposes — Borders 

and  their  construction — planting — cultural  directions — 

Disbudding  and  Tying  the  Young  Growths 

THE  early  history  of  the  Peach  is  obscure.  Some  authorities  suppose  it 
to  be  of  Persian  origin,  but  it  is  not  definitely  known  where  it  had  its 
first  home.  The  Peach  and  the  Nectarine  may  be  classed  together, 
as  the  latter  is  a  variety  of  the  former.  The  foliage  and  the  blossom  are  the 
same  in  both,  while  the  fruit  is  quite  distinct,  in  appearance  as  well  as  in  flavor. 

Fine  Peaches  can  be  grown  throughout  this  country  without  any  glass 
protection  whatever.  But  this  is  not  the  case  with  the  Nectarine.  Our  so- 
called  California  Nectarines  are  Nectarines  only  in  name.  Plant  a  Nectarine 
tree  under  glass  and  give  it  the  proper  care  and  you  will  get  fruit  of  handsome 
appearance  and  rich,  luscious  flavor.  Prof.  Bailey  speaks  in  his  Encyclopedia 
of  the  Nectarine  as  being  inferior  to  the  Peach  in  quality.  But  this  is  probably 
because  less  attention  has  been  given  to  the  improvement  of  the  varieties.  A 
wonderful  improvement  has,  however,  been  made  within  the  last  twenty  or 
thirty  years,  both  in  its  size  and  flavor  and  in  the  length  of  its  season.  Some 
years  ago  Lord  Napier  was  considered  our  earliest  variety.  Then  came  Earlj' 
Rivers,  ripening  some  time  ahead  of  Napier.  Their  competitor.  Cardinal,  was 
eight  or  ten  days  in  advance  of  Early  Rivers,  and  for  late  fruit,  Victoria,  that 
grandest  of  all  the  late  Nectarines,  which  is  a  monument  to  its  originator.  There 
are  others,  which  I  will  mention  later. 

We  have  now  a  wonderful  assortment  of  both  Peaches  and  Nectarines  to 
select  from  for  forcing  purposes.  They  are  next  in  popularity  to  the  Grape, 
and  justly  so.  The  demand  among  the  wealthy  for  hothouse  Peaches  and 
Nectarines  has  increased  to  such  an  extent  within  the  last  few  years  that  this 
branch  of  our  profession  will  be  a  growing  one  for  a  long  period  to  come. 

The  Nectarine  is  more  popular  as  a  forced  fruit  than  the  Peach,  its  dis- 
tinct flavor  being  the  more  desired.  But  the  fruit  must  be  finished  up  to  per- 
fection in  order  to  acquire  this  rich  flavor,  and  it  must  be  gathered  at  the  proper 
stage.  As  regards  hothouse  Peaches,  one  must  be  in  close  touch  with  the  fruit 
to  appreciate  its  richness  of  finish  and  flavor.  One  fact  that  appeals  strongly 
to  the  owner  of  a  peach-house  is  that  there  is  no  off  year,  but  a  steady  crop 
year  after  year,  unless  there  has  been  poor  judgment  in  overcropping,  or  mis- 


92  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

management  somewhere  else.  The  owner  of  a  peach-house  has  a  perfect  right 
to  expect  a  fair  crop  every  year.  We  have  no  unfavorable  weather  conditions 
to  contend  with,  and  no  Spring  frosts  to  fight.  We  have  the  means  at  com- 
mand for  creating  the  ideal  Peach  temperatuie.  Yet  more  Peaches  have  prob- 
ably been  damaged  by  too  much  heat  than  by  anything  else,  particularly  in 
early  forcing.  On  the  Peach  tree,  when  brought  along  with  Nature's  tempera- 
tures, the  blooms  will  start  swelling  in  a  comparatively  low  temperature.  This 
shows  that  we  would  be  going  against  Nature  by  rushing  in  much  heat  when  first 
starting  up  a  house.  Although  we  may  have  artificial  heat  at  command,  it 
needs  judgment  to  start  up  a  fruithouse  in  December.  Follow  the  guidance 
of  Nature  as  much  as  possible.  When  the  buds  commence  to  move,  gradually 
increase  the  heat.  Too  much  heat  will  cause  the  fruit  buds  to  drop,  or  if  they 
do  not  drop,  the  blossoms  will  be  weak  and  lack  substance  very  undesirable. 
Under  these  conditions  the  flowers  are  apt  to  fall  off  before  the  fruit  has  set. 

In  our  climate  we  can  produce  wonderful  results  with  the  Peach  and  Nec- 
tarine under  glass.  The  trees  will  make  rapid  growth.  In  three  or  four  years 
they  will  grow  into  large  trees  capable  of  carrying  a  crop  of  200  fruit  to  the 
tree,  or  more.  The  wood  should  be  thoroughly  ripened  up  in  the  Fall,  as  the 
amount  of  sunshine  is  much  greater  here  than  in  less  favored  climates,  with 
the  result  that  the  trees  will  withstand  20°  or  25°  of  frost  in  the  house,  with 
no  injury  whatever  to  the  buds.  I  think  that  the  trees  are  considerably  im- 
proved by  a  certain  amount  of  freezing.  Some  good  fruit  growers  will  not 
allow  much  frost  in  the  house,  but  if  the  trees  are  well  ripened,  frost  is  beneficial 
rather  than  harmful. 

The  general  method  of  propagation  is  to  plant  the  stone  of  the  Peach  or 
Nectarine,  with  a  \iew  to  obtaining  new  and  improved  varieties.  This  is  not 
done  haphazard,  but  promising  varieties  are  selected  and  certain  flowers  are 
fertilized  with  the  pollen  from  another  kind.  A  record  of  this  operation  is  kept. 
Wonderful  results  have  been  obtained  by  crossing  the  Peach  with  the  Nec- 
tarine. One  of  the  most  prominent  and  handsome  midseason  Peaches  which 
we  have  for  forcing  purposes  is  Peregrine,  a  seedling  from  the  Spencer  Nec- 
tarine. No  collection  is  complete  without  the  Peregrine  Peach.  It  is  com- 
paratively new,  but  all  who  have  tried  it  speak  highly  of  it  for  indoor  work, 
because  of  its  flavor  and  handsome  appearance. 

BUDDING 

Most  of  our  Peaches  are  probably  budded  on  the  Peach  stock,  although 
this  stock  is  very  undesirable  for  forcing,  as  the  trees  have  a  tendency  to  rank 
growth.  All  Peaches  for  growing  under  glass  should  be  budded  on  Plum  stock. 
At  times  the  wood  of  the  Peach  will  grow  away  more  rapidly  than  that  of  the 
Plum  and,  if  left  to  itself,  it  would  get  what  we  term  hide-bound.  But  a  straight 
cut  through  the  bark  of  the  Plum  will  often  remedy  this  evil,  especially  if  done 
in  time.  Another  point  in  favor  of  the  Plum  stock  is  that  the  Peach  borer, 
which  is  troublesome  under  glass  as  well  as  in  the  open,  will  make  less  headway 
on  this  stock  than  on  the  Peach,  for  the  latter  is  somewhat  softer  and  more 
easily  bored  into. 


PEACHES  AND  NECTARINES 


94  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

Both  the  Peach  and  the  Nectarine  are  admirably  adapted  for  forcing  pur- 
poses; but  while  excellent  Peaches  can  be  also  grown  on  the  farm  and  in  the 
garden  in  many  parts  of  this  country,  outdoor  culture  is  not  as  congenial  to 
the  Nectarine  as  the  hothouse.  I  therefore  rank  the  Nectarine  ahead  of  the 
Peach  for  forcing,  for  two  reasons.  In  the  first  place,  one  can  see  car  loads  of 
Peaches  in  the  market,  in  their  season,  but  not  of  Nectarines.  The  connoisseur, 
moreover,  will  prefer  at  any  time  a  hothouse  Nectarine  to  a  Peach.  In  the 
second  place,  produce  something  under  glass  that  is  not  so  plentiful  in 
the  market  and  it  will  be  more  highly  appreciated,  provided  the  quality 
is  excellent.  I  would  therefore  assign  the  prominent  place  in  the  fruithouse 
to  the  Nectarine. 

Do  not  imagine  that  because  they  are  not  seen  much  in  the  market.  Nec- 
tarines have  not  kept  pace  with  Peaches  as  regards  improvement  in  varieties. 
The  Nectarine  has  been  improved  to  a  wonderful  extent  in  size  and  flavor,  and 
length  of  seasons  One  must  know  these  hothouse  products  well  in  order  to 
appreciate  them  at  their  full  value. 

I  have  often  been  asked  how  early  I  can  produce  ripe  Peaches  and  Nec- 
tarines and  how  long  the  season  will  last.  It  is  well  for  the  grower  to  be  able 
to  answer  such  questions  definitely  and  intelligently.  So  I  may  say  here,  that 
ripe  Peaches  and  Nectarines  can  be  had  from  the  first  week  in  May  onward  and, 
with  space  at  command,  a  continuous  supply  may  be  secured  from  that  date  to 
the  first  week  in  October.  There  are  persons  who  expect  to  get  ripe  Peaches 
for  Christmas,  but  as  we  are  dealing  with  a  deciduous  tree,  which  must  have 
its  period  of  rest,  it  is  not  advisable  to  attempt  to  bring  in  the  crop  before  the 
date  stated.  Three  houses  are  necessary  in  order  to  produce  a  steady  supply 
for  five  months,  and  even  then  good  judgment  is  required,  with  a  thorough 
knowledge  of  the  different  varieties  This  is  a  point  that  should  be  well  consid- 
ered when  growing  fruit  for  private  purposes,  as  a  steady  supply  is  much 
more  appreciated  than  a  large  crop  ripening  only  within  a  limited  period.  Fur- 
ther on  I  shall  give  a  list  of  varieties,  with  their  seasons  of  ripening,  which  vary 
considerably. 

HOUSE  OR  HOUSES  BEST  ADAPTED  FOR  GROWING 

I  have  seen  Peaches  grown  in  various  kinds  of  houses — leanto,  three-quarter 
span,  and  the  span  or  even  span,  the  trees  seemingly  doing  well  under  any  one 
of  these  constructions.  There  is  one  important  point  to  be  noted  in  planning  a 
house  for  trees  of  this  kind.  When  they  are  once  planted  in  the  border,  they 
make  rapid  growth,  therefore  allow  them  room  enough  to  spread.  A  Peach  tree 
planted  in  a  cramped  position  cannot  be  expected  to  develop,  or  to  give  the 
same  results,  as  one  that  has  plenty  of  space.  A  tree  should  be  planted  so  that 
it  can  develop  freely  on  both  sides.  An  evenly  balanced  tree  will  thrive  better 
than  one  which  has  not  the  same  space  for  arranging  all  its  branches;  such 
a  tree  also  means  even  circulation  of  the  sap. 

The  house  must  also  have  full  sunlight,  for  no  matter  how  well  it  may  be 
constructed  otherwise,  it  will  fall  short  of  its  purpose  if  it  is  in  the  least  shaded 
by  trees,  and  the  grower  cannot  then  produce  the  best  results.     The  kind  of 


PEACHES    AND    NECTARINES 


house  best  adapted  for  this  work  is  a  span  roof.  Let  it  run  nortli  and  soutli, 
for  the  trees  will  get  more  even  sunhght  from  this  direction  than  if  it  runs  east 
and  west.  All  fruithouses  should  be  supplied  with  both  top  and  bottom  ven- 
tilation; this  is  of  decided  advantage  when  ripening  the  fruit,  particularly  Peaches 
and    Nectarines. 

I  have  grown  this  fruit  by  different  methods  of  training  in  former  years. 
The  trees  were  then  largely  planted  along  the  sides  and  trained  to  trellis,  in 
the  same  way  as  recommended  for  Grapes.  Good  fruit  can  be  produced  with 
this  method.  But  here,  with  our  extremely  hot  sun,  there  is  considerable  diffi- 
culty in  keeping  down  red  spider,  as  the  grower  can  only  spray  the  foliage  on 
the  under  side.  The  heat  between  the  foliage  and  the  glass  is  at  times  very 
great,  and  that  space  is  really  a  breeding  place  for  red  spider.  For  the  last  few 
years  I  have  been  planting  and  training  my  trees  crosswise  of  the  house.  This 
method  makes  a  lighter  house,  as  the  glass  is  free  from  foliage.  Moreover, 
considerably  more  square  feet  of  space  will  be  obtained  under  the  crosswise 
system.     In  order  to  get  the  full  benefit  of  such  a  house,  the  walks  should  run 


'DRAIN 

Section  of  Peachhouse 

This  section  gives  a  clear  idea  as  to  construction  of  trellis,  arrangement  of  border  and  concrete 

bottom.     From  the  concrete  base  to  the  straight  line  should  be  filled  in 

with  drainage — either  broken  stone  or  brickbats 


96  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

along  the  sides,  instead  of  down  tlie  center.  Have  the  house  25  feet  wide  and 
as  long  as  is  necessary.  This  will  allow  one  tree  for  each  trellis  and  a  spread 
of  17  or  18  feet  for  the  development  of  the  tree,  which  is  none  too  much.  As 
regards  the  space  between  each  trellis,  six  feet  apart  would  be  all  right. 
Being  trained  crosswise,  the  trees  are  easy  to  handle,  and  there  will  be  no  excuse 
for  red  spider,  as  they  can  be  sprayed  on  both  sides.  And  above  all,  this  arrange- 
ment will  give  the  house  a  more  handsome  appearance  than  if  the  trees  are 
trained  up  the  roof  If  it  is  not  convenient  to  have  a  span  roof  house — which 
is  the  best  for  the  purpose — excellent  Peaches  may  be  grown  in  a  leanto  or  a 
three-quarter  span,  provided  such  a  house  be  situated  in  a  proper  location. 
Such  a  house  should  face  south,  or  approximately  so,  in  order  to  get  the  benefit 
of  all  the  sunlight.  Greenhouse  builders  have  now  so  thoroughly  mastered 
this  subject  that  they  are  figuring  out  every  detail  to  the  best  advantage,  in 
regard  to  location,  sunlight  heat,  etc.,  and  the  private  grower  can  safely  rely 
on  their  judgment. 

BORDERS  AND  THEIR  CONSTRUCTION. 

Peaches  may  thri\e  and  bear  heavy  crops  in  different  soils — either  a  sandy 
soil  or  medium  loam;  but  they  do  not  look  happy  when  planted  in  heavy  clay 
soil,  for  they  have  then  to  struggle  for  existence,  and  the  growth  is  slow.  We 
find  the  same  condition  with  Peaches  growing  in  the  open.  I  do  not  know 
any  fruit  more  sensitive  to  poor  drainage  than  the  Peach  and  Nectarine.  Al- 
though they  require  an  abundance  of  water  at  the  roots  in  their  growing  season, 
especially  when  in  full  growth,  the  drainage  must  be  in  condition  to  carry  off 
all  the  surplus  water. 

As  to  the  border,  excellent  trees  may  be  grown  in  seemingly  very  small, 
shallow  borders,  or  equally  well  with  considerably  more  soil.  I  remember 
seeing,  many  years  ago,  some  fine  Peach  trees  growing  at  the  back  wall  of  a 
leanto  house  in  a  border  about  three  feet  wide  and  two  and  one  half  feet  deep; 
they  were  remarkably  healthy  and  carried  fine  crops  every  year.  Trees  in  such 
a  confined  border  need  close  attention  as  to  watering  and  feeding  when  de- 
veloping their  crops.  This  shows  that  Peaches  may  be  produced  in  a  com- 
paratively small  border  if  the  circumstances  demand  it.  It  is  not  so  much  a 
question  as  to  the  size  of  the  border,  for  a  tree  may  be  grown  in  a  tub  16  inches 
square,  and  yield  50  to  75  well  developed  fruits,  with  systematic  feeding  and 
close  attention  to  all  details. 

One  of  the  secrets  of  success  lies  in  the  construction  of  the  border,  or  perfect 
drainage.  Without  free  drainage  the  soil  will  get  sour  within  a  year,  and 
decayed  roots  and  unhealthy  trees  result.  Under  these  conditions  we  miss 
that  rich  flavor  so  desirable  in  perfect  fruit.  With  good  drainage  it  does  not 
matter  whether  the  border  is  wide  or  narrow,  for  the  soil  will  then  keep  in  a 
sweet,  healthy  condition  for  years.  There  is  no  need  of  going  to  the  expense 
of  artificial  drainage  if  the  natural  drainage  is  perfect.  Natural  drainage  is, 
in  fact,  the  best;  if  there  is  the  least  doubt  about  it,  however,  do  not  take  any 
chances,  but  put  in  drains.  Follow  the  same  plan  as  described  for  the  Grape 
border.     Of  course,  it  means  an  initial  expense  to  put  in  perfect  drainage,  but 


PEACMES    AND    NECTARINES  97 

it  will  sa\e  the  grower  much  worry  in  the  years  to  come,  and  in  the  case  of  a 
private  establishment,  where  the  object  is  to  produce  perfect  fruit  without 
regard  to  expense,  the  owner  will  certainly  get  greater  satisfaction  out  of  a 
well  built  border. 

Growing  Peaches  and  Nectarines  under  glass  is  not  a  very  expensive  luxury. 
In  the  first  place,  they  do  not  require  an  extremely  high  temperature,  especially 
with  fire  heat;  the  coal  bill  is  therefore  not  a  serious  item.  Fruit  in  the  late 
house  can  be  produced  with  little  or  no  fire  heat  and  then  it  becomes  only  a 
question  of  labor,  which  is  nothing  when  compared  with  the  returns  and  the 
pleasure  derived  from  the  fruit,  if  it  is  a  success. 

In  making  up  a  border  it  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  young  trees  have 
a  tendency  to  rank  growth  for  the  first  year  or  so;  therefore,  the  border  should 
not  be  made  too  rich.  Use  fertilizers  that  will  not  be  available  for  sometime, 
such  as  coarse  or  one-half  inch  bone;  the  trees  will  derive  benefit  from  this  for 
years.  Potash,  also,  is  necessary  for  the  Peach,  though  this  may  be  applied 
as  a  surface  dressing  when  the  trees  need  it.  If  a  border  is  made  up  of  sod 
loam,  the  trees  will  make  excellent  growth  for  a  year  or  so  with  little  or  no  fer- 
tilizer. At  this  time  it  is  not  necessary  to  use  farmyard  manure,  but  it  may 
be  applied  as  a  top  dressing  when  the  trees  have  passed  their  stage  of  rankness. 

Peach  borders  should  be  made  on  the  same  principle  as  that  advised  for 
Grapes,  but  the  soil  may  be  somewhat  lighter.  Let  it  consist  of  good,  turfy  loam, 
being  substantial  but  not  of  a  clayey,  heavy  nature.  Peaches  will  thrive  for  some 
years  in  a  comparatively  shallow  border,  but  with  perfect  drainage  two  to  two 
and  one-half  feet  of  soil  will  be  more  lasting.  With  too  shallow  a  border  the 
trees  are  in  danger  of  drying  out  too  often.  The  trees  may  be  confined  wholly 
to  the  inside  border.  Bone  constitutes  one  of  the  best  ingredients  for  all  fruit 
borders;  that  known  as  one-half  inch  bone  is  to  be  preferred.  Use,  say, 
at  the  rate  of  one  part  of  bone  to  fifty  of  soil,  which  is  a  good  proportion. 
But  soils  vary  greatly  in  quality.  If  the  soil  i?  poor,  more  bone  and  other  fer- 
tilizers can  be  used  to  good  advantage.  It  is  difficult  to  give  the  right  proportion 
for  the  best  welfare  of  the  trees,  as  it  all  depends  on  the  constitution  of  the 
different  soils.  Hardwood  ashes  form  a  valuable  ingredient  when  mixed  in 
about  the  same  proportion  as  the  bone.  Good  Peaches  cannot  be  produced 
without  the  aid  of  potash  in  some  form.  With  a  poor  grade  of  soil  some  high 
grade  fertilizer  applied  near  the  surface  will  be  of  benefit,  but  I  prefer  a  good 
loam  with  less  manure.  Excellent  results  can  be  obtained  with  Thomson's 
manure.  It  is  high  priced,  but  a  few  bags  for  top  dressing  will  go  a  long  way 
and  it  is  doubly  valuable  for  being  a  complete  fertilizer. 

While  the  border  is  the  foundation  of  success  In  fruit  culture  under  glass, 
feeding  in  the  years  that  follow  also  requires  careful  thought  and  good  judgment, 
as  I  shall  explain  later.  An  important  point  to  be  mentioned  here  is  that  the 
soil  should  not  be  brought  in  or  handled  after  heavy  rains;  let  it  first  dry  out 
fairly  well.  The  modern  farmer  will  not  handle  or  plow  his  land  when  over- 
charged with  moisture.  Similarly,  sod  for  the  border  should  be  in  a  free,  work- 
able condition — neither  too  wet  nor  yet  dust  dry.  It  should  be  in  such  a  form 
that  the  border  can  be  thoroughly  firmed  down  without  injury  to  the  soil. 


FRUITS   AND   VEGETABLES   UNDER   GLASS 


Peach  Perecri 


The  Peregrine  is  a  dist 


finest   furcing  Peaches 


Iree  cropping 


PEACHES    AND    NECTARINES 


PLANTING 


Peach  trees  may  be  planted  either  in  the  early  Spring  or  in  the  Fall,  though 
I  decidedly  prefer  the  early  Fall,  or  soon  after  they  have  cast  their  foliage.  If 
planted  in  the  early  Fall,  the  young  trees  will  probably  make  a  few  new  roots, 
which  will  be  of  great  benefit  to  them  when  they  start  up  in  the  Spring.  For 
a  test  you  may,  in  starting  your  house,  plant  one  half  in  the  early  Fall  and  the 
other  half  in  Spring.  The  results  will  surely  lead  you  to  do  your  further  plant- 
ings in  the  Fall.  However,  if  the  house  is  not  in  shape  for  planting  until  De- 
cember, wait  until  the  turn  of  the  year,  for  there  is  no  advantage  in  planting 
at  that  late  date,  as  root  action  would  be  perfectly  dormant  then. 

Get  the  very  best  grade  of  stock  obtainable.  In  our  climate,  with  its 
plentiful  sunlight,  results  come  quickly,  as  the  trees  will  make  a  remarkably 
luxuriant  growth  under  this  treatment.  Peaches  may  be  gathered  the  first 
season,  if  required,  for  by  securing  a  few  pot-grown  trees,  eight  to  ten  ripe  fruit 
may  be  taken  from  each  tree.  Many  varieties  that  I  shall  recommend  must 
be  imported  from  "  the  other  side,"  particularly  Nectarines.  I  have  found, 
in  my  experience  of  importing  these  trees,  that  Peaches  and  Nectarines  grown 
in  pots  are  far  more  satisfactory  for  importing  than  trees  dug  out  of  the  nursery. 
The  pot  trees  will  start  off  unaffected  by  the  3,000-mile  journey.  I  have  never 
lost  an  imported  pot-grown  tree,  whereas  trees  from  the  nursery  did  not  prove 
satisfactory.  Fruit  growers  in  Europe  are  beginning  to  realize  this  fact  and 
annually  grow  a  large  quantity  of  trees  for  export.  These  trees  can  be  trained 
readily  into  any  shape  desired.  In  ordering  it  is  well  to  state  for  what  purpose 
the  trees  are  wanted,  whether  for  training  or  otherwise.  These  pot  trees  will 
not  be  trained  trees,  but  will  be  selected  with  a  view  to  adjusting  them  easily 
to  any  form  desired.  If  quick  results  are  wanted,  it  is  well  to  secure  the  trees 
in  advance.  For  instance,  if  a  range  of  fruit-houses  is  contemplated,  the  work 
of  building  is  generally  begun  in  the  early  Spring,  and  the  number  of  trees  re- 
quired may  be  secured  at  once  and  trained  into  form  to  suit  the  house.  Get 
nice,  thrifty,  young  pot-grown  trees  for  this  purpose,  repot  them  into  pots  a 
couple  sizes  larger  than  they  were  grown  in  and  place  them  in  the  garden  where 
they  will  get  the  full  benefit  of  the  sun  and  be  sheltered  from  the  north,  if  possible. 
A  temporary  trellis  may  be  set  up  for  training  the  young  growth  to.  All  this 
can  be  done  at  small  expense,  and  there  will  be  a  fine  lot  of  trees  to  plant  in 
the  house  in  the  Fall — better  than  could  be  secured  from  the  nurseryman, 
for  the  Peach  will  make  considerable  growth  in  one  season  here,  with  good  care. 
Trees  so  treated  should  yield  eighteen  Peaches  apiece  the  first  season  after 
planting.  I  have  known  of  Peach  trees  half  grown,  which  were  carefully  lifted 
and  transplanted  inside,  with  immediate  results.  But  I  am  not  in  favor  of  such 
a  procedure,  for  it  does  not  take  any  great  length  of  time  to  produce  a  tree  capable 
of  carrying  a  crop  of  1 50  or  200  fruit,  provided  it  has  room  to  develop.  Plant 
only  as  many  trees  as  are  to  grow  permanently  in  the  house,  for  if  more  are 
planted  with  a  view  to  removing  the  superfluous  ones  before  overcrowding  the 
others,  they  are  frequently  left  until  too  late,  and  the  ensuing  disfigurement  of 
the  remaining  trees  is  not  easily  remedied. 


loo  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

In  planting  crusswiseof  the  liouse,  it  is  jjctter  to  plant  only  one  tree  for  each 
trellis,  and  have  some  in  pots  or  tubs  in  between,  if  necessary;  these  can  be  then 
shifted  when  the  permanent  trees  require  their  space.  In  this  way  there  will 
be  no  danger  of  oveicrowding  or  damaging  the  trees  which  are  to  occupy  their 
positions  for  years.  If  these  trees  have  been  grown  in  pots,  reduce  the  ball 
somewhat,  or  enough  to  loosen  out  the  roots,  as  this  will  give  them  a  better 
chance  to  take  hold  of  the  new  soil  and  grow  more  freely.  Do  not  plant  too 
deep.  It  is  better  to  plant  a  tree  a  bit  high  than  too  low.  But  try  to  ha\e 
them  on  about  the  same  level  along  the  border  as  they  were  growing  before. 
Firm  the  soil  well  around  the  roots,  and  put  a  light  mulch  of  manure  around 
to  prevent  too  rapid  evaporation  after  planting.  If  the  planting  is  done  in 
the  Fall  and  the  trees  receive  one  good  watering,  w-ith  a  mulch  of  short  farm- 
yard manure,  the  soil  w  ill  keep  in  a  moist,  healthy  condition  all  through  the 


tLLECARDE 


Bcllcgarde  has  stood  the  test  as  a  forcing  Peach  for  many  years  and  can 
highly  recommended.      Excellent  for  shipping  purposes 


PEACHES    AND    NECTARINES  loi 

Winter  months,  and  this  will  be  much  better  for  the  roots  than  watering.  But 
this  depends  on  circumstances,  as  some  soils  will  dry  out  much  more  quickly 
than  others.  So  long  as  the  soil  is  slightly  moist  everything  will  go  well,  but 
if  the  trees  are  allowed  to  dry  out,  there  may  be  serious  trouble.  Not  that 
they  will  die,  but  when  root  action  starts  in  the  Spring,  and  the  blossoms  are 
due  to  expand,  the  fruit  buds  w  ill  be  drooping  instead  of  swelling  away,  causing 
failure  and  annoyance  for  the  whole  season. 

Whether  the  trees  are  planted  crosswise  of  the  house  or  in  any  otiicr  way, 
they  should  get  the  same  care.  In  a  comparatively  narrow  leanto  house  plant 
them  alcng  the  front  wall  and  train  them  up  the  roof  on  trellis  about  eighteen 
inches  from  the  glass.  If  they  are  grown  crosswise  in  a  narrow  structure,  they 
have  no  room  for  development.  If  trained  up  the  roof,  they  may  be  planted 
along  the  front  about  six  inches  from  the  wall,  and  at  least  twelve  feet  apart; 
but  fifteen  feet  would  be  none  too  much  to  allow  for  the  proper  expansion  of 
the  branches  on  each  side.     There  is  nothing  to  be  gained  by  overcrowding. 

In  growing  Peaches  under  glass,  the  same  principles  apply  as  when  Nature 
takes  care  of  them,  as  to  how  long  a  tree  will  remain  in  a  healthy,  vigorous 
condition.  Of  a  dozen  trees  planted  in  a  house,  all  receiving  the  same  treat- 
ment, some  will  give  out  before  others,  for  reasons  not  easy  to  explain.  Then, 
again,  the  Peach  borer  may  get  into  some  with  its  deadly  work,  weakening  the  tree 
to  a  certain  extent.  As  soon  as  a  tree  shows  signs  of  failing  health,  whether 
it  be  eight,  ten  or  twenty  years  old,  remove  it  and  replace  it  by  a  young  tree. 
I  have  seen  excellent  fruit  gathered  from  trees  that  have  been  planted  fifteen 
or  sixteen  years.  This  is  a  pretty  good  record  for  a  Peach  tree  under  forced 
treatment.  If  we  see  a  tree  begin  to  fail  in  health,  we  have  a  chance  to  prepare 
another  tree,  so  that  it  will  yield  results  at  once  when  planted,  whereas  in  planting 
a  small  tree,  the  space  would  not  be  filled  up  for  a  year  or  so. 

CULTURAL  DIRECTIONS 

The  eastern  States  are  admirably  adapted  for  the  successful  growth  of  the 
Peach  and  Nectaiine  under  glass.  We  can  get  much  quicker  results  here  than 
in  some  other  climates  with  less  sunlight.  While  rankne^s  in  young  trees  should 
not  be  encouraged,  yet  if  the  wood  is  thoroughly  ripened  by  the  Fall,  an  abun- 
dant crop  is  produced  in  the  following  season  on  wood  that  it  would  be  im- 
possible to  ripen  in  England  or  Scotland  sufficiently  to  yield  fruit,  and  with  good 
judgment  there  should  be  a  continuous  crop  from  year  to  year. 

The  great  secret  of  success  lies  in  the  management  of  the  house  and  the 
treatment  of  the  trees  when  the  heat  is  first  turned  on.  Do  not  excite  the  buds 
with  too  much  heat,  but  give  them  time.  The  Peach  tree  does  not  need  much 
coddling.  Fresh  air,  also,  is  important.  The  first  aim  now  is  to  get  strong, 
healthy  blossoms.  Though  progress  may  seem  slow,  it  is  better  for  the  fruit. 
After  the  fruit  is  set  and  begins  to  swell  it  will  make  up  for  lost  time.  In 
a  house  started  the  loth  or  15th  of  December  the  earliest  varieties  should  be 
ripe  about  the  first  week  in  May.  If  forced  to  ripen  much  before  that  time, 
the  fruit  will  be  premature.     It  is  a  serious  mistake  to  try  to  force  newly  planted 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


Nectarine  Spencer 
One  of  the  largest,  highly  colored  Nectarines;  late  in  ripening 


young  trees  before  the  turn  of  the  season,  or  the  first  of  February,  for  they  are 
not  in  a  condition  to  withstand  early  forcing.  And  it  is  not  worth  while  to 
injure  them  for  the  small  amount  of  fruit  that  may  be  gathered  from  them 
the  first  season. 

There  is  an  old  saying  that  "  cleanliness  is  next  to  godliness."  A  fruithouse 
thoroughly  cleaned  before  starting  will  save  much  worry  and  annoyance  during 
the  growing  season,  for  it  is  then  impossible  to  use  insecticides  or  fumigations 
strong  enough  to  eradicate  evils  like  the  San  Jose  scale  or  mealy  bug.  But 
if  the  work  is  done  while  the  trees  are  dormant,  it  may  be  easily  accomplished 
either  by  washing  the  trees  or  by  fumigatiom.  If  there  are  any  indications 
of  San  Jose  scale,  fumigate  with  hydrocyanic  acid  gas,  which  is  the  only  sure 
means  of  eradicating  them.  This  gas  will  also  clear  out  all  other  insect  pests. 
The  method  of  using  this  gas  will  be  described  in  the  chapter  on  insect  pests. 

When  you  are  sure  that  the  house  is  clean,  remove  all  the  loose  soil  and 
give  the  border  a  light  fork-over,  being  careful  not  to  destroy  any  roots.  Then 
apply  a  top  dressing  of  a  couple  of  inches  of  rich  soil,  or  half  soil  and  half  rich 
farmyard  manure,  with  a  good  sprinkling  of  bone.  The  richness  of  the  top 
dressing  will  depend  on  the  condition  of  the  trees.  If  they  have  a  tendency 
to  weakness,  let  the  dressing  be  light.  As  a  general  rule,  however,  when  the 
trees  are  well  established  and  are  carrying  heavy  crops  of  fruit,  and  depend 
wholly  on  the  inside  border,  considerable  feeding  is  necessary  through  the  season. 
Thomson's  manure  can  be  used  a  couple  of  times  during  the  season  to  good 
advantage,  at  the  rate  of  half  a  bag  (56  pounds)  to  a  house  or  border  45  x  25 
feet.  The  first  application  may  be  made  soon  after  the  house  is  started.  Mix 
the  manure  with  four  or  five  parts  of  soil  and  distribute  evenly  over  the  border. 
In  every  case  after  applying  Thomson's  manure,  water  in  lightly.    A  good  time 


PEACHES    AND    NECTARINES  103 

to  use  this  manure  is  a  few  days  after  tiie  border  has  received  a  thorough  water- 
ing. When  a  border  has  been  for  some  months,  as  during  the  winter,  without 
water,  it  is  surprising  what  a  quantity  of  water  is  needed  to  thoroughly  saturate 
the  soil,  which  should  be  soaked  through  from  top  to  bottom. 

Another  light  dressing  of  Thomson's  manure  may  be  applied  when  the 
Peachef  are  half  grown.  Take  a  little  over  half  the  quantity  given  for  the 
first  dressing.  It  is  not  necessary  to  depend  wholly  on  one  manure.  In  fact, 
a  couple  of  waterings  during  the  season  with  manure  water  fiom  the  farmyard 
is  very  beneficial,  provided  it  is  not  used  too  strong. 

This  question  of  feeding  is  an  ail-important  one.  The  skillful  cultivator 
is  able  to  judge  when  to  give  food,  and  the  kind  of  food  best  suited  to  the  wel- 
fare of  his  crop.  While  plants  cannot  talk,  yet  their  needs  may  be  observed 
by  studying  the  foliage,  through  which  plant  life  finds  its  best  expression.  From 
its  appearance  the  grower  will  know  when  to  feed  and  when  to  refram.  In  a 
plant  that  has  been  fed  to  the  limit,  the  foliage  has  substance,  with  the  different 
veins  standing  out  prominently.  If  the  foliage  feels  brittle  to  the  touch,  the 
plant  has  been  overfed,  and  it  should  receive  no  further  nourishment  for  a  time; 
otherwise,  damage  may  be  done.  This  applies  both  to  fruit  and  flowers.  An 
interesting  and  instructive  book  might  be  written  on  the  advantages  and  dis- 
advantages of  feeding.  Many  a  piomising  crop  has  been  practically  ruined 
through  overfeeding.  To  be  successful,  every  grower  should  study  this  question 
thoroughly,  for  experience  is  the  best  guide  in  the  end. 


Nectarine  of  rich   flavor.     Not  so  highly  colored 
worthy  of  a  place  in  the  forcing  house 


,04  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

Harcl\vut)cl  ashes  are  also  excellent  for  Peach  trees.  Potash  is  desirable 
for  the  health  of  the  trees,  aside  from  being  good  for  the  fruit. 

The  Peach  tree,  as  I  have  stated,  does  not  want  strong  heat  when  fust 
starting.  While  the  temperatures  that  I  shall  mention  may  seem  low,  still  I 
have  used  this  method  for  many  years  with  good  success.  1  am  referring  here 
to  early  forcing,  or  to  a  house  started  about  the  middle  of  December.  For 
the  first  week  or  ten  days  keep  a  temperature  of  40°  by  night  and  50°  to  55°  by 
day,  then  45°  by  night,  with  a  corresponding  increase  by  day.  As  the  buds 
begin  to  swell,  increase  to  50°  by  night  and  60  to  65  by  day,  or  70  with  sun 
heat.  Always  admit  a  crack  of  air  when  the  thermometer  registers  5 
above  the  night  temperature.  The  trees  will  be  in  full  bloom  about  the  end 
of  January  or  the  first  of  February,  and  if  brought  along  in  the  low  tempera- 
tures above  recommended,  the  blossoms  will  be  strong,  with  good  pollen — 
conditions  very  desirable  for  securing  a  good  set.  Gradually  increase  the  tem- 
perature from  now  on,  until  a  night  temperature  of  60  is  reached,  with  70 
to  75°  by  day.  Maintain  a  fairly  dry,  bracing  air  while  the  trees  are  in  bloom, 
for  it  is  necessary  to  have  the  pollen  dry  around  mid-day.  The  early  peach- 
house  must  be  hand-fertilized,  for  at  this  early  period  of  the  year  there  are  no 
bees  around  to  perform  the  work.  The  blossoms  should  be  gone  over  about 
mid-day,  either  with  a  camel's  hair  brush,  or,  better  still,  with  a  rabbit's  tail 
tied  to  a  stick,  which  will  distribute  the  pollen  admirably. 

After  the  fruit  is  set,  spray  every  clear  day,  morning  and  afternoon.  From 
now  on  the  trees  and  fruit  will  make  rapid  headway  and  can  stand  more  heat  if 
it  is  brought  along  slowly  at  first.  Here  we  gain  on  the  time  apparently  lost 
earlier. 

Airing  is  an  important  factor.  Both  the  Peach  and  the  Nectarine  want 
plenty  of  fresh  air.  It  should  not,  however,  be  admitted  in  a  haphazard  way. 
When  the  thermometer  rises  about  5°  above  the  night  temperature  a  crack 
of  air  may  be  admitted  to  good  advantage,  and  gradually  increase  as  the  tem- 
perature goes  up  steadily.  Do  not  admit  the  air  to  the  extent  of  lowering  the 
temperature  or  causing  a  sudden  drop,  but  let  the  temperature  rise  gradually 
and  also  decrease  it  in  the  same  way.  Try  to  avoid  erratic  changes.  Care- 
lessness along  these  lines  will  undo  good  work,  especially  through  the  Winter 
and  the  early  Spring  months. 

Careful  watering,  also,  is  needed  now.  While  this  crop  should  never  suffer 
for  want  of  moisture  at  the  roots,  yet  too  nuich  water  is  as  bad  as  a  shortage. 
The  best  way  is  to  give  a  thorough  soaking  and  then  no  more  until  it  is  neces- 
sary. Arrange  the  watering  period,  if  possible,  so  that  the  tree  will  not  require 
water  while  the  fruit  is  ripening.  This  may  seem  a  small  matter,  but  it  is  an 
important  one.  For  if  a  quantity  of  water  is  dashed  around  the  roots  just  as 
the  fruit  is  ripening,  its  flavor  will  not  be  improved;  nor  will  it  be  benefited,  on 
the  other  hand,  if  the  tree  is  allowed  to  get  too  dry.  Try  to  strike  the  happy 
medium,  and  this  can  be  done  with  a  little  forethought. 

The  above  directions  for  the  early  house  apply  practically  also  to  the  later 
houses;  but  these  do  not  require  the  same  close  attention  as  to  airing,  for  it 
is  not  necessary  to  use  fire  heat  after  tiie  llrst  week  in  Alav.     After  the  lire  heat 


PEACHES    AND    NECTARINES  105 

is  dispensed  with.  leave  a  crack  of  air  on  all  the  time.  In  airing  be  careful 
not  to  make  any  sudden  changes  of  temperature.  Squalls  frequently  come  up 
during  the  Summer  months,  when  the  air  may  be  reduced  to  good  advantage. 
In  growing  Peaches  and  Nectarines  for  private  use,  it  is  important  that 
the  supply  should  be  kept  up  as  long  as  possible.  With  care  in  selecting  the 
varieties,  fruit  may  be  had  from  the  first  week  in  May  to  the  first  week  in  Octo- 
ber. For  a  steady  supply  three  houses  are  absolutely  necessary,  and  of  these 
the  early  house  is  started  the  middle  of  December,  the  second  house  on  the  first 
of  February,  and  the  late  house  about  the  loth  of  March.  It  is  impossible  to 
hold  the  late  trees  much  longer;  in  fact,  to  hold  them  to  that  date  they  must 
be  kept  as  cool  as  possible,  with  open  ventilators  and  doors.  But  it  is  not  safe  to 
hold  them  back  after  they  begin  to  move  or  the  buds  commence  to  de\elop, 
otherwise  there  would  be  danger  of  a  check. 

DISBUDDING  AND  TYING  THE  YOUNG  GROWTHS 

Peaches  and  Nectarines  under  glass  must  not  be  overcrowded;  other- 
wise, the  wood  cannot  develop  properly.  This  is  an  important  matter,  as  the 
success,  of  the  following  season  depends  on  the  treatment  of  the  young  wood. 
Fruit  trees  brought  along  in  a  cro\\ded,  cramped  condition  cannot  develop 
good  buds;  these  are  the  prerequisites  of  good  foliage,  and  require  sunlight,  with 
space  for  the  foliage  to  expand.  One  good  fruiting  shoot  is  worth  two  poor 
ones;  therefore,  disbudding  is  an  important  factor  in  the  work  of  obtaining 
good  fruit.  The  man  in  charge  of  this  work  must  be  thoroughly  familiar  with 
it,  for  much  depends  on  the  way  in  which  the  operation  is  carried  out.  Always 
try  to  maintain  a  well-balanced  tree.  Generally  some  branches  will  grow  stronger 
than  others,  and  this  tendency  may  be  overcome  somewhat  with  good  judg- 
ment in  disbudding.  If  ail  the  shoots  were  allowed  to  remain,  we  should  soon 
have  a  "  conglomeration  of  nothing."  Disbudding  consists  in  the  removal  of 
all  the  surplus  shoots.  It  should  be  done  by  degrees.  It  would  be  a  serious 
mistake  to  remove  them  all  at  one  time,  for  this  would  give  a  check  to  the  tree 
not  easily  remedied.  Young  trees  as  a  rule  do  not  need  the  same  severe  dis- 
budding as  old,  established  trees.  With  full-grown  trees  much  of  the  wood 
that  bears  the  fruit  is  cut  away  after  the  crop  is  gathered,  and  it  is  well  to  secure 
a  good  shoot  at  the  base  of  the  previous  year's  growth  to  take  its  place.  This 
disbudding  should  be  begun  while  the  shoots  are  quite  young,  or  about  iiaif 
an  inch  long.  Remove  some  of  the  thickest  clusters  at  first,  and  repeat  the 
operation  every  other  day  until  the  work  has  been  accomplished.  Where  there  is 
fruit  and  the  shoot  is  not  needed,  pinch  at  the  third  leaf  instead  of  removing  the 
shoot,  for  tiie  remaining  foliage  is  necessary  for  the  development  of  the  fruit. 

By  this  method  of  pinching,  fruit  buds  will  form  during  the  Summer,  or 
toward  the  Fall,  and  fruit  buds  formed  on  those  spurs  generally  produce  ex- 
cellent Peaches  the  following  season.  Some  branches  grow  stronger  than  others, 
and  if  permanent  shoots  for  the  next  season's  fruiting  wood  are  selected  from 
the  top  side  of  the  extra  strong  shoots,  they  will  also  naturally  grow  strong. 
As  sap  flows  more  freely  from  the  highest  point,  I  would  recommend  selecting 


,o6  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

the  shoots  on  the  lowest  part  of  the  strong  shoots,  and,  conversely,  on  the  highest 
part  of  the  weaker  shoots.  With  careful  manipulation  the  sap  may  be  caused 
to  flow  evenly  and  produce  a  well-balanced  tree.  Aside  from  its  appearance, 
more  fruit  can  be  grown  on  an  evenly-balanced  tree  than  on  a  lop-sided  one. 

Pinching  and  disbudding  require  deep  thought,  and  must  be  done  by  a  man 
with  good  judgment,  who  loves  his  calling.  A  tree  that  has  been  properly 
pinched  and  disbudded,  with  all  the  old  and  useless  wood  removed  after  the 
fruit  is  gathered,  will  need  very  little  Winter  pruning.  If  all  the  useless  wood 
is  pruned  away  directly  after  the  fruit  is  gathered,  it  relieves  the  tree  of  that 
surplus  burden,  to  the  decided  advantage  of  the  remaining  wood.  The  sap 
can  then  run  through  those  branches  on  which  the  success  of  the  following  season 
depends. 

The  main  object  in  pinching  and  disbudding  is  to  leave  enough  shoots 
to  furnish  the  tree  for  the  following  season.  Much  of  the  success  one  year 
depends  on  what  has  been  done  or  left  undone  the  year  previous.  Therefore, 
enough  young  shoots  should  remain  on  the  tree,  so  that  when  tied  into  shape 
the  young  wood  is  about  five  inches  apart,  with  plenty  of  room  for  development. 
It  is  easy  to  ascertain  when  the  old  wood  must  be  cut  away,  after  the  fruit  is 
gathered.  The  terminal  shoot  may  be  pinched  at  the  fourth  or  fifth  leaf,  thus 
allowing  more  space  for  the  young  wood,  with  no  damage  to  the  other.  The 
ideal  tree  will  be  furnished  equally  all  around,  from  top  to  bottom,  and  this 
can  be  brought  about  by  carefully  regulating  the  flow  of  the  sap.  The  best 
way  to  do  this  is  to  be  cautious  in  the  selection  of  the  shoots.  Many  will  have 
to  be  pinched,  instead  of  being  rubbed  ofF,  on  account  of  the  fruit.  This,  how- 
ever, is  no  detriment,  but  rather  an  advantage,  as  it  gives  room  for  the  forma- 
tion of  spurs  here  and  there  over  the  tree. 

After  the  operation  of  disbudding  comes  that  of  tying  the  shoots  loosely  to 
the  trellis.  This  need  not  be  done  until  they  have  made  a  growth  of  a  foot  or 
more,  but  before  the  wood  gets  set  or  stubborn.  It  is  not  at  all  necessary  to 
pinch  or  stop  those  shoots;  rather  allow  them  to  make  their  full  season's  growth. 
But  any  shoot  that  becomes  unusually  rank,  as  often  happens  even  in  the  most 
skilled  hands,  should  be  cut  away  entirely. 

A  tree  that  is  making  a  satisfactory  growth  needs  tying  at  intervals  during 
the  season.  If  the  shoots  are  found  to  be  crowding  one  another,  one  may  be 
stopped  here  and  there,  but  this  depends  on  circumstances.  The  general  prin- 
ciple is,  to  allow  the  shoot  to  make  the  season's  growth  unchecked.  In  our 
climate  there  will  always  be  a  plentiful  supply  of  fruit  buds  for  each  succeeding 
season,  if  the  wood  has  adequate  space  for  development;  but  when  too  much 
wood  is  crowded  in,  we  get  blind  wood,  or  at  least  more  wood  buds  than  fruit 
buds.  These  two  can  be  readily  told  apart.  Nor  can  a  multitude  of  fruit 
be  obtained  from  unripened  wood,  for  then  the  blossoms  probably  will  be  weak 
and  liable  to  drop  before  the  fruit  sets. 


PEACHES  AND  NECTARINES 


CHAPTER    XVI 


THINNING  THE  FRUIT-GATHERING  THE  PEACHES   AND 
NECTARINES  WHEN  RIPE 

Treatment  of  Trees   after    Fruit   is  Gathered — Pruning  and  Training 

BOTH  the  Peach  and  the  Nectarine  usually  set  heavy  crops,  and  if  all  the 
fruit  were  allowed  on  the  trees,  they  would,  within  a  few  years,  get 
exhausted  with  overcropping.  It  is,  moreover,  impossible  to  have  fancy 
fruit  when  the  tree  is  overloaded.  Fruit  from  an  overcropped  tree  lacks  that 
sweet,  delicious  flavor  which  is  so  much  appreciated  in  fruit  grown  under  glass. 
This  is  one  of  the  most  important  points  in  this  kind  of  fruit  culture.  While 
severe  thinning  may  seem  a  waste  of  fruit,  we  gain  in  size  and  quality  what  we 
lose  in  quantity.  A  fair  crop,  furthermore,  means  a  steady  supply  from  year  to 
year.  There  are,  in  fact,  no  off  years  with  fruit  under  glass,  with  proper 
treatment. 

A  grower  should  become  familiar  with  the  different  varieties  before  under- 
taking to  thin  his  crop,  for  some  kinds  grow  much  larger  than  others.  A  Thomas 
Rivers  Peach  will  require  more  thinning  than  a  Grosse  Mignonne.  Noblesse 
Peach,  when  fairly  well  thinned,  is  one  of  the  finest  for  indoor  work, 
but  overcrop  it  and  its  flavor  is  flat.  The  same  applies  to  Nectarines,  though 
they  may  be  left  on  the  tree  a  trifle  thicker  than  Peaches.  Tiie  improved  form 
of  this  fruit  that  has  appeared  in  recent  years  is  larger  than  the  Nectarine  of 
years  ago.  Victoria  Nectarine,  when  not  overcropped,  is  magnificent,  both  in 
size  and  flavor.  Unfortunately,  it  is  somewhat  deficient  in  color,  but  the  flavor, 
which  should  count  more  than  the  color,  is  all  that  could  be  desired.  No  rules 
can  be  given  as  to  the  quantity  of  fruit  a  tree  can  carry,  for  it  depends  on  cir- 
cumstances— whether  a  tree  has  a  tendency  to  rankness  or  is  of  normal  growth. 
The  first  may  be  allowed  to  carry  more  fruit,  for  it  will  be  beneficial  rather 
than  hurtful. 

In  the  house  twenty-five  feet  wide,  with  the  trees  planted  crosswise,  one 
tree  for  each  trellis  planted  in  the  center  of  the  house,  there  will  be  a  spread 
of  branches  on  each  side  of  the  main  stem  of  about  nine  feet,  or  a  complete 
spread  of  seventeen  or  eighteen  feet,  a  trellis,  say  eighteen  feet  wide  and  ten  feet 
or  more  in  height.  A  full-grown  Peach  tree  will  cover  the  allotted  space  on  the 
trellis,  and  it  should  carry  annually  from  250  to  300  fruits,  according  to  the 
variety  and  size,  if  it  is  in  a  healthy,  normal  condition;  this  is  a  safe,  conserva- 
tive estimate. 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


Some  writers  on  tlie  subject  recommend  leaving  much  more  fruit  than  is 
necessary  until  the  trees  have  passed  their  stoning  period  and  are  commencing 
their  last  swelling.  The  stoning  period  is  the  critical  time;  occasionally  the 
fruit  will  not,  for  some  unknown  reason,  stone  properly,  and  the  kernel  will 
die.  Hence  the  advice  to  leave  on  a  surplus  lot  of  fruit  until  they  start  their 
second  swelling,  when  the  danger  is  past.  But  I  do  not  recommend  leaving 
on  many  surplus  fruits  for  such  an  emergency,  for  when  the  Peach  is  once  stoned, 
the  i)ulk  of  the  work  is  practically  done  as  regards  the  strain  on  the  tree.  If 
the  forcing  process  is  brought  on  gradually,  with  strong  blossoms,  which  means 
abundance  of  pollen,  a  perfect  set  will  follow,  and  there  is  not  much  danger  of 
the  fruit  dropping  while  stoning. 


Peach  Bellegakc 


The  time  for  beginning  to  thin  depends  on  circunistances.  Under  favor- 
able conditions  nearly  every  blossom  will  set.  In  case  of  a  very  heavy  set,  a 
quantity  may  be  removed  when  about  the  size  of  peas.  Remove  the  majority 
from  the  north  side,  where  trees  are  planted  crosswise  of  the  house,  and  the 
house  runs  north  and  south.  The  second  thinning  may  be  done  when  they  are 
about  the  size  of  hazelnuts.  Always  try  to  have  as  many  of  the  fruit  as  possible 
face  the  south  side,  and  have  the  crop  divided  equally  all  over.  This  is  better 
for  the  welfare  of  the  tree,  aside  from  the  appearance  Peaches  that  are  allowed 
to  mature  on  the  spur   wood  usually  turn  out  magnificent  fruit. 


PEACHES  AND  NECTARINES  109 

In  thinning  fruit  down  to  normal  crops,  it  is  better  to  repeat  the  operation 
three  or  four  times,  than  to  be  too  severe  at  one  time.  Do  tlie  final  thinning 
when  they  are  about  the  size  of  walnuts.  This  will  give  one  a  better  Hne  on 
them.  The  process  of  thinning  is  a  deceptive  one.  I  have  often  thinned  down 
to  what  I  thought  would  leave  about  300  fruits  on  each  tree,  only  to  find  later 
that  I  had  left  at  least  500.  It  is  not  a  bad  plan,  therefore,  to  get  a  line  on  the 
tree  when  they  are  gone  over  for  the  final  thinning.  When  the  fruit  takes  on 
its  last  swelling,  after  stoning,  and  begins  to  color,  every  single  fruit  will  show 
up,  and  I  have  been  often  astonished  to  find  that  I  have  been  far  off  in  my 
estimation.  I  now  make  it  a  practice  to  count  one  tree  roughly,  as  a  guide  to  the 
others,  and  I  thus  come  pretty  near  to  the  mark.  The  question  of  proper  thin- 
ning is  one  of  the  most  serious  which  the  cultivator  has  to  face.  Although  the 
work  itself  is  not  difficult,  it  takes  a  man  of  nerve  to  thin  down  to  the  required 
number.  Many  a  time,  when  I  have  gone  over  the  trees  for  the  last  thinning, 
and  have  pulled  off  some  thrifty  looking  specimens,  so  as  to  bring  down  my 
crop  to  a  fair  average,  I  have  felt  guilty  of  waste.  But  we  must  remember 
that  in  producing  fruit  under  glass  we  are  striving  for  the  highest  perfection, 
and  this  cannot  be  attained  if  the  trees  are  overcropped. 

But  we  must  not  go  to  the  other  extreme,  for  if  a  tree  is  given  too  light  a 
load,  it  may  develop  a  tendency  to  rankness,  and  this  is  not  desirable  for  a 
healthy  tree.  Keep  to  the  golden  rule,  and  this  depends  on  conditions.  Our 
climate  is  ideal  for  Peach  culture  under  glass,  and  what  we  call  an  average 
crop  would  be  heavy  in  a  less  favorable  climate.  If  a  tree  produces  2^0  to  300 
handsome  fruits  year  after  year   it  should  satisfy  the  grower. 

The  subject  of  gathering  the  fruit  may  seem  superfluous  to  discuss,  as  any 
one  can  tell  when  the  fruit  is  ripe.  While  this  may  be  true,  yet  one  must  know 
the  exact  moment  of  maturity.  If  a  Peach  is  pulled  off  too  ripe,  it  loses  some 
of  its  flavor,  and  it  is  also  lacking  in  flavor  if  pulled  too  green.  The  fruit 
should  be  gathered  as  soon  as  possible  after  it  is  ready.  Sometimes  it  will 
be  highly  colored  where  the  sun  strikes  it,  long  before  it  is  ripe.  In  such  a 
case  the  fruit  will  give  warning  a  few  days  before  it  is  ready  by  the  rich  aroma 
which  it  exhales;  we  must  then  keep  close  watch  so  that  it  may  not  get  over- 
ripe and  drop. 

This  fruit  when  ripe  is  very  easily  bruised  and  disfigured,  and  should  there- 
fore be  handled  with  great  care.  It  is  an  almost  unpardonable  offense  to  set 
disfigured  hothouse  Peaches  and  Nectarines  on  the  dinner  table.  The  best 
way  to  gather  this  fruit  is  by  hand.  Take  the  Peach  in  the  hollow  of  the  hand, 
holding  the  fingers  as  nearly  as  possible  behind  the  fruit;  if  perfectly  ripe,  gentle 
pressure  will  release  it  from  the  tree,  and  it  may  be  removed  without  the  slight- 
est mark  or  blemish.  Testing  by  the  finger-and-thumb  method  is  a  very  rep- 
rehensible habit  as  it  invariably  produces  blemishes  on  ripe  fruit.  In  extremely 
hot  weather  the  trees  may  be  gone  over  in  the  morning  and  afternoon  and  the 
ripe  fruit  gathered.  It  is  not  necessary  to  handle  them  much.  If  the  fruit 
changes  color  around  the  stem,  this  is  usually  a  signal  to  get  busy.  It  is  a  mis- 
take to  hold  Peaches  in  the  ice  box  for  any  length  of  time.  While  they  may  be 
kept  for  about  a  week  in  this  way,  they  lose  their  brisk  flavor. 


,10  FRUITS   AND   VEGETABLES   UNDER   GLASS 

TREATMENT  OF  TREES  AFTER  FRUIT  IS  GATHERED 

Success  or  failure  depends  to  a  great  extent  on  the  treatment  which  the 
trees  receive  after  the  fruit  is  gathered.  The  fruithouse  is  naturally  more 
interesting  while  the  fruit  is  developing.  But  we  should  remember  that  the 
fruit  buds  will  continue  to  develop  as  long  as  the  foliage  remains  on  the  trees, 
and  if  we  neglect  those  buds  at  this  stage  there  will  be  a  serious  setback  for  the 
following  season's  crop.  Not  that  a  great  amount  of  time  and  labor  need  be 
put  on  the  trees.  Leave  on  all  the  air  possible  from  this  time  on,  except  in 
case  of  wind  storms  or  heavy  rains,  when  the  ventilators  should  be  lowered 
enough  to  shed  the  water  or  to  guard  against  the  gusts  of  wind. 

During  three  hot  months  following  the  gathering  of  the  crop  in  May  and 
June  there  wall  be  rapid  evaporation,  with  full  ventilation  both  top  and  bottom. 
Then  the  border  will  occasionally  dry  out  quickly.  While  the  trees  should 
not  be  saturated  at  this  time,  yet  they  should  not  suffer  for  want  of  moisture 
at  their  roots  so  long  as  they  are  carrying  their  green  foliage.  When  watering 
give  a  thorough  soaking,  otherwise  there  may  be  a  moist  surface  with  a  dry 
bottom.  This  is  a  condition  very  unfavorable  for  the  health  and  vigor  of  the 
fruit  trees,  and  is  one  of  the  chief  causes  of  the  dropping  of  the  buds  in  the 
following  Spring.  Perfectly  developed  buds  will  not  drop  to  any  extent,  unless 
they  are  unreasonably  rushed  along  with  artificial  heat  when  they  are  started 
up  early  in  the  season.  However,  too  much  water  is  as  bad  as  not  enough;  for 
with  an  inside  border  an  over-supply  of  water  will  cause  souring  of  the  soil, 
especially  after  the  trees  have  made  the  bulk  of  their  growth.  I  emphasize 
the  danger  of  neglect  at  this  period  of  the  tree's  life,  for  if  a  tree  does  not 
get  the  proper  treatment  now,  it  will  not  do  its  best  work  in  the  season  to  follow. 

Toward  the  Fall,  when  the  trees  have  completed  their  growth  and  the  wood 
is  fairly  well  ripened,  less  water  is  required.  The  border  is  now  apt  to  crack; 
this  may  be  prevented  by  keeping  the  surface  raked  over,  or  a  light  mulch  may 
be  applied,  as  a  cracked  border  tends  to  break  the  fine  working  roots,  which 
are  the  most  essential  for  the  tree. 

Spraying  the  foliage  is  also  important  at  this  time,  otherwise  red  spider 
will  make  rapid  headway.  The  trees  can  be  sprayed  to  good  advantage  twice 
a  day,  in  the  morning  and  at  night.  Bear  in  mind  that  with  indoor  fruit  the 
trees  are  depending  wholly  on  you  for  their  sustenance,  especially  when  there 
is  only  an  inside  border.  This  border  is  all  right,  particularly  for  forcing,  but 
the  supply  of  moisture  at  the  roots  calls  for  close  attention.  With  old  estab- 
lished trees,  which  are  matted  with  roots,  it  is  occasionally  difficult  to  get  the 
water  to  soak  in  thoroughly  around  the  base.  In  this  case  it  is  best  to  turn 
on  the  hose,  letting  the  water  run  very  slowly  for  about  an  hour,  or  until  you  are 
satisfied  that  it  has  penetrated  through.  This  slow  process  of  watering  is  effec- 
tive on  any  dry  spot,  and  does  not  call  for  constant  watching  of  the  hose. 

When  a  heavy  crop  has  been  taken  from  the  trees,  a  light  feed  will  be  of 
benefit.  But  this  depends  on  the  condition  of  the  trees.  If  they  are  unusually 
vigorous,  it  may  hurt  them;  but  trees  that  have  no  tendency  to  rankness,  with 
the  border  full  of  roots,  may  be  fed  once  or  twice  to  good  advantage.     A  light 


PEACHES  AND  NECTARINES 


,,2  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

dressing  of  wood-ashes  on  the  surface,  applied  when  they  are  in  need  of  water 
and  then  watered  in,  is  very  good  for  the  development  of  the  fruit  buds.  A 
surprising  amount  of  feeding  can  be  done  when  the  trees  are  well  established 
and  in  full  health  and  vigor.  Heavy  feeding  at  one  time  is  dangerous,  for  it 
is  liable  to  burn  the  roots,  and  this  does  more  harm  than  good.  It  is  much  safer 
to  feed  lightly  and  often. 

A  certain  amount  of  potash  is  excellent  for  tiiis  crop,  both  when  the  trees 
are  carrying  the  fruit  and  when  finishing  up  their  wood  for  the  following  season. 
Potash  applied  in  the  form  of  hardwood  ashes  is  as  good  as  any  other.  I  have 
used  it  successfully  for  many  years.  Some  soils  will  take  more  than  others. 
Study  your  soil  and  apply  the  ashes  accordingly. 

The  foremost  authorities  on  fruit  culture  are  agreed  that  the  following 
elements  are  necessary  for  the  maintenance  of  thrifty,  healthy,  vigorous  trees 
for  any  length  of  time:  Phosphoric  acid,  potash,  lime  and  nitrogen.  These 
may  be  applied  separately  or  in  the  form  of  a  complete  fertilizer.  The  inex- 
perienced grower  will  find  it  easier  to  use  a  complete  manure,  for  all  the  high 
grade  manures  give  full  directions  as  to  how  much  to  apply  in  order  to  get  the 
best  results.  For  light  feeding  after  the  crop  is  gathered  phosphoric  acid  and 
potash  are  the  best,  as  they  will  firm  up  the  wood  and  develop  the  buds.  I 
attribute  whatever  success  I  may  have  had  during  many  years  of  handling 
Peaches  and  Nectarines  under  glass  to  the  carrying  out  of  those  simple  rules. 

If  any  hardwood  plant  is  forced  while  the  buds  are  not  fully  de\eloped, 
or  the  wood  is  not  well  ripened,  the  result  is  far  from  satisfactory,  c\cn  if  the 
plant  gets  the  best  of  care.  The  same  applies  to  fruit  under  glass.  Gi\e  \our 
trees  good  treatment  along  these  lines,  and  _\ou  will  be  more  than  repaid  the 
following  season. 

I  do  not  belie\e  in  tying  the  shoots  much  after  the  crop  is  off;  better  let 
them  hang  a  bit  loose.  If  e\ery  shoot  is  tied  in  place  the  house  will  present  a 
much  neater  appearance;  but  as  our  object  is  to  produce  high  class  fruit,  we 
should  give  trees  the  amount  of  liberty  which  agrees  best  with  them.  Trees 
may  occasionally  make  a  few  sappy  growths  toward  the  Fall;  these  should 
be  cut  away  before  they  take  much  strength  from  the  other  shoots.  Much 
may  be  said  as  to  the  treatment  of  the  trees  after  the  fruit  is  gathered.  I  trust 
that  I  have  demonstrated  the  importance  of  proper  treatment,  for  It  means 
healthy  trees,  and  healthy  trees  mean  an  abunciaiue  of  high  ^nacle  fruit,  which 
is  the  aim  of  every  grower. 

PRUNING  AND  TRAINING 

The  Peach  tree  requires  both  Winter  and  Summer  pruning.  If  disbudding 
and  the  cutting  away  of  useless  wood  ha\e  recei\ed  proper  attention  during 
the  growing  season  of  the  trees,  not  much  Winter  pruning  will  be  necessary. 
The  grower  should  be  thoroughly  familiar  with  the  mode  of  bearing  and  should, 
above  all,  be  able  to  distinguish  the  wood  bud  from  the  fruit  bud.  Occasion- 
ally, especially  when  the  trees  get  older,  there  will  be  quite  a  space  toward  the 
terminal  ends  of  the  shoots  where  there  will  be  more  fruit  buds  than  wood  buds. 


PEACHES  AND  NECTARINES  113 

It  is  easy  to  tell  the  one  from  the  other:  the  wood  bud  is  more  pointed  and 
conical,  while  the  fruit  bud  is  almost  round  and  also  larger.  As  the  fruit  buds 
will  always  predominate,  especially  when  the  wood  has  been  properly  ripened, 
we  can  tell,  in  the  case  of  the  Peach  tree  at  the  end  of  the  growing  season,  what 
the  prospects  will  be  for  the  following  season.  If  the  buds  stand  out  prominently 
we  may  rest  assured  that  any  failure  will  be  our  own  fault.  Judgment  should 
be  used  in  any  pruning  that  is  done,  as  so  much  depends  on  the  thrift  and  vigor 
of  the  tree. 

The  object  of  pruning  is  to  furnish  space  for  tying  in  the  young  wood,  as 
we  are  chiefly  depending  on  this  for  the  next  season's  work,  unless  the  trees  are 
supplied  with  some  spur  wood,  of  which  there  should  be  the  proper  amount, 
if  Summer  pinching  has  been  done. 

Winter  pruning  may  be  commenced  any  time  after  the  leaves  are  off,  for 
then  the  buds  are  fully  developed.  Or  it  may  be  done  any  time  between  the 
falling  of  the  foliage  and  the  rising  of  the  sap.  Before  beginning  to  prune,  all 
the  young  wood  should  be  cut  loose  from  the  trellis,  leaving  only  the  main 
branches  tied  to  keep  the  shape  of  the  tree,  as  a  gauge  for  pruning.  Always 
try  to  have  a  well-balanced  tree.  If  a  tree  is  inclined  to  be  a  little  more  vigor- 
ous on  one  side  than  on  the  other,  prune  the  heavy  side  a  little  more  severely. 
Here  we  see  the  advantage  of  having  a  house  running  north  and  south,  for  in 
such  a  location  there  is  little  or  no  difficulty  in  preserving  an  evenly-balanced 
tree.  The  sun  will  shine  on  both  sides  some  part  of  the  day  and  this  is  a  great 
help  toward  regulating  the  sap. 

A  tree  will  sometimes  make  quite  a  growth  during  the  Summer,  and  the 
shoots  may  be  benefited  by  some  shortening  back.  In  this  case  be  careful  to 
prune  to  a  wood  bud,  for  if  you  prune  to  a  fruit  bud,  the  wood  will  eventuallj' 
die  back,  and  as  there  will  be  no  foliage,  there  will  be  no  sap  beyond  the  wood 
bud.  This  shows  how  absolutely  necessary  it  is  to  be  familiar  with  the  two 
kinds  of  buds.  Some  varieties  of  Peaches  are  more  shy  than  others  in  producing 
wood  buds,  especially  toward  the  terminal  ends,  but  when  a  shoot  is  to  be  short- 
ened back,  it  must  be  cut  at  the  wood  bud. 

Peach  trees,  like  most  other  kinds  of  fruit  trees,  may  be  trained  into  almost 
any  desired  shape.  The  fan  shape  is  the  best  and  simplest.  When  planting 
a  young  tree,  do  not  allow  the  growths  to  progress  unchecked,  or  the  tree  will 
soon  reach  the  top  of  the  trellis  at  the  expense  of  the  lower  branches.  Prune 
back  any  strong  growing  shoots,  so  that  the  bottom  of  the  trellis  will  be  furnished 
before  the  top.  If  these  strong  growths  are  not  checked  they  will  make  an 
ungainly  tree  within  a  few  years;  and  it  will  then  be  too  late  to  restrain  it.  The 
easiest  and  the  only  proper  time  to  balance  the  tree  is  when  it  is  young.  Do 
not  plant  trees  in  a  position  where  it  would  be  impossible  to  carry  the  same 
amount  of  foliage  on  one  side  as  on  the  other.  This  may  seem  exact  to  the 
extreme,  yet  it  is  a  highly  important  point,  and  there  is  no  argument  which  can 
be  advanced  against  it.  Plant  a  tree  where  Nature  will  care  for  it.  That  tree 
will  have  about  equal  foliage  on  both  sides  if  it  has  proper  space  for  development. 
Bear  in  mind  this  lesson  from  Nature  when  planting  Peaches  under  glass. 
Though  Peaches  have  been  planted  in  years  gone  by  in  positions  where  there 


,,4  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

was  not  space  sufilcient  for  their  full  development,  and  fair  results  have  been 
obtained,  this  is  no  argument  for  scrimping  the  tree  as  to  space.  Provide  a 
roomy  house  for  your  trees,  so  that  each  and  every  one  may  have  an  equal 
chance,  and  they  will  more  than  repay  you  for  your  liberality. 

Pruning  may  be  viewed  under  three  different  aspects.  In  the  first  place, 
all  the  very  weakest  wood  should  be  removed.  Then,  if  necessary,  shorten 
back  the  wood  intended  for  the  following  season's  fruiting,  if  it  is  overcrowded. 
When  the  fruiting  shoots  are  more  than  eighteen  inches  long,  they  are  improved 
by  shortening  back  some;  this  will  make  the  growth  become  more  uniform. 
For  instance,  if  a  growth  of  two  feet  or  more  has  been  made  in  one  season,  short- 
ening this  back  to  eighteen  inches  will  cause  the  shoot  to  break  more  regularly 
and  also  stronger.  This  refers  to  medium  growths.  A  tree  planted  eight 
or  ten  years  will  throw  shorter  wood,  sometimes  not  over  a  foot  long;  this  should 
not  be  shortened  back. 

A  tree  that  has  been  pruned  so  that  the  fruiting  wood,  when  arranged  and 
tied  in  all  over,  is  five  to  six  inches  apart,  is  about  right.  This  refers  to  full- 
grown  trees.  Give  the  trees  the  proper  care  in  the  matter  of  disbudding.  Then 
in  due  time  select  a  shoot  at  the  base,  and  train  this  during  the  Summer.  Re- 
move the  shoots  that  have  borne  fruit  as  soon  as  the  crop  is  gathered,  except 
those  that  are  needed  to  balance  the  tree  evenly.  The  process  is  a  simple  one 
when  understood,  and  an  interesting  one  from  start  to  finish.  Be  sure  to  guard 
against  the  overcrowding  of  branches  and  foliage. 

Next  after  pruning  comes  the  operation  of  tying  the  shoots  into  place.  If 
the  tree  has  been  properlj-  attended  to,  there  will  be  sufficient  branches  to  spread 
evenly  all  over  the  trellis  or  frame  work.  Distribute  and  tie  all  the  main  branches 
first,  then  tie  in  the  fruiting  wood,  starting  at  the  bottom  of  the  tree  and  working 
up.  The  strongest  shoots  may  be  secured  with  soft  string  and  the  smaller 
ones  with  raffia;  do  not  tie  the  latter  tight,  but  allow  for  the  growth  of  the 
Summer  months.  Peach  trees  when  pruned  and  tied  e^•enly  all  over  the  trellis 
look  very  neat. 

The  young  tree's  tendency  to  rank  growth  may  be  modified  to  some  extent 
by  allowing  a  fairly  heavj-  crop  of  fruit  during  the  first  three  or  four  years.  If 
this  will  not  check  the  exuberance,  then  root  pruning  must  be  resorted  to.  This 
consists  in  shortening  back  the  strongest  roots,  or  digging  a  trench  around  the 
tree  three  or  four  feet  from  the  base,  according  to  size.  If  the  strong  growing 
roots  are  thus  checked,  there  will  be  a  much  firmer  and  more  moderate  growth. 
Root  pruning  will  also  cause  the  tree  to  produce  more  fibrous  roots,  and  these 
are  the  most  desirable  for  the  fruit-bearing  wood.  When  the  trench  has  been 
dug  around  the  tree,  cut  the  roots  with  a  sharp  knife,  making  a  clean  cut  which 
will  heal  quickly.     All  Peach  pruning,  by  the  way,  should  be  done  with  a  knife. 

The  effects  of  root  pruning  will  become  apparent  the  following  season. 
The  reduction  of  nourishment  will  induce  less  rapid  development.  Judgment, 
however,  must  be  used  in  this  work.  Do  not  root-prune  too  severely,  as  it  will 
have  a  bad  effect  on  the  tree  for  a  year  at  least.  While  the  fruit  buds  would 
no  doubt  be  plentiful  under  the  close  root-pruning  process,  the  fruit  would  be 
smaller  in  size. 


PEACHES  AND  NECTARINES  115 

The  best  time  for  root-pruning  Peaclies  and  Nectarines  is  after  tiiey  have 
completed  their  season's  growth,  or  at  least  a  week  or  so  before  they  drop  their 
foliage  in  the  Fall.  Different  writers  have  recommended  different  periods  of 
the  year,  but  the  early  Fail  is  the  most  appropriate  time.  The  wood  is  then 
pretty  well  firmed  up,  the  extreme  heat  is  over,  and  finally,  it  allows  time  for 
the  trees  to  adjust  themselves  and  for  the  cuts  to  callus,  and  root  action  will 
begin  after  the  turn  of  the  year. 

In  growing  these  trees  under  artificial  treatment  much  better  results  will 
be  obtained  if  they  make  a  fair,  moderate  growth;  but  young  trees  will  grow  rank, 
especially  if  the  border  has  been  made  over  rich,  and  in  such  a  case  root-pruning 
is  the  best  means  of  bringing  the  tree  around  to  normal  growth.  Usually  a 
tree  may  be  brought  into  good  shape  by  a  little  heavier  cropping  if  it  is  grow- 
ing too  strong.  The  fruiting  wood  on  full  grown  trees  should  be  shortened 
back  to  about  eighteen  inches,  according  to  circumstances.  With  a  strong 
growing  young  tree  the  object  is  to  cover  the  trellis  as  soon  as  possible,  if  it  can 
be  done  without  damage  to  the  shape;  here  the  wood  may  be  left  considerablj' 
over  eighteen  inches;  indeed,  it  is  of  advantage  to  have  two  or  three  feet  of  young 
growth  if  the  shoots  are  strong,  and  with  the  rapid  growth  that  they  make  it 
is  possible  to  ripen  fairly  strong  wood  to  produce  fruit  the  following  season. 


Newton  Nectar 


Nectarine  Newton 
will  be  found  excellent  as  a  midseason  variety,  handsome  in  appearance, 
with  a  rich  Stanwick  flavor 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


CHAPTER     XVII 


DISEASES  AND  INSECT  PESTS  THAT  AFFECT  PEACHES 
AND  NECTARINES 

THE  successful  grower  of  indoor  fruit  must  wage  an  incessant  figiit  against 
insect  pests  and  diseases.  These  affect  both  the  Peach  and  Nectarine 
more  or  less,  and  if  not  checked  will  spread  more  rapidly  than  on  trees 
grown  in  the  open  field  or  garden.  This  is  especially  the  case  with  San  Jose  scale. 
The  extra  heat  and  humidity  of  the  house  favor  the  rapid  increase  of  this  noxious 
pest.  When  I  was  working  for  some  years  in  a  district  where  San  Jose  scale 
was  very  prevalent  on  all  outside  fruit  trees  and  shrubs,  I  decided  to  import 
all  my  Peaches  and  Nectarines,  with  the  view  to  having  clean  stock.  But  my 
precaution  was  useless,  for  while  I  got  my  trees  in  good  condition,  San  Jose 
scale  appeared  within  a  year,  although  I  did  not  come  into  close  contact  with 
the  scale  outside,  the  infected  trees  being  some  distance  away.  It  seems,  there- 
fore, that  small  birds  and  bees,  and  especially  the  bumble  bee  with  its  hairlike 
feet,  are  the  means  of  carrying  and  spreading  this  pest.  The  scale,  when  just 
hatched,  is  as  fine  as  dust.  At  that  time  hydrocyanic  acid  gas  was  little  known, 
and  the  only  means  we  had  of  keeping  the  pest  in  check  was  lime,  sulphur  and 
salt.  This  formula  was  troublesome  to  use  in  a  close  structure,  with  white  paint 
to  protect,  but  it  was  fairly  successful.  We  discarded  it  later  in  fa\or  of  liydro- 
cyanic  acid  gas. 

It  was  different  with  the  Peach  borer,  however,  for  while  we  used  the  lime- 
sulphur  formula  about  four  years  and  succeeded  in  keeping  the  borer  down, 
when  we  discarded  this  for  the  gas,  the  borer  appeared  again  in  numbers.  I 
have  found  in  my  long  experience  with  different  insecticides  and  fungicides, 
that  we  may  learn  something  from  all  of  them. 

Insect  pests,  if  allowed  full  sway,  will  very  soon  weaken  the  constitution 
of  even  the  most  healthy  and  vigorous  of  trees.  During  the  Winter  months:, 
or  while  the  temperature  is  low,  they  hibernate  in  their  burrows  under  tiie  bark, 
reappearing  and  beginning  their  work  of  destruction  when  the  warm  weather 
comes  or  the  heat  is  turned  on.  Larvae  of  various  sizes  may  be  found  on  the 
trees  at  almost  any  time,  ranging  from  very  small  ones  to  those  that  are  nearly 
full  grown.  The  period  of  preparation  and  emerging  of  the  moth  being  extended, 
there  will  be  different  crops  during  the  season.  The  borer  turns  into  a  cocoon 
and  comes  to  the  surface  just  before  the  fly  emerges  from  the  same.  With 
close  attention  the  borer  may  be  gathered  up  before  the  fly  leaves  its  cage.     It 


PEACHES  AND  NECTARINES 


Peach  Thomas  Rivers 
Rivers  Peach  is  one  of  the  largest.     It  is  particularly  handsome  and  a  very  free 
cropper,  but  not  quite  so  rich  in  flavor  as  one  would  wish 


,,8  FRUITS    AND    VEGETAGLES    UNDER    GLASS 

is  wonderful  to  observe  how  Nature  will  guard  lier  creatures  against  detection, 
for  the  cocoon  is  of  very  nearly  the  same  color  as  the  soil,  and  therefore  not 
easily  seen.  These  wasp-like  insects  mate  soon  after  their  emergence,  and  the 
female  commences  at  once  to  deposit  her  eggs  indiscriminately  on  the  trunk  or 
in  the  crevices  of  the  bark.  The  moths  may  be  seen  flying  around  during  the 
day,  but  it  is  almost  impossible  to  catch  them  owing  to  their  agility.  The  female 
is  somewhat  larger  than  the  male.  It  is  also  nearly  impossible  to  detect  the 
eggs.  They  will  hatch  in  about  ten  days  from  the  time  they  are  deposited. 
The  young  larvae  at  once  make  their  way  into  the  crevices  of  the  bark,  and, 
if  not  disturbed,  will  eventually  bore  into  the  trees,  keeping  up  their  destructive 
operations  until  the  cold  weather  sets  in  again.  As  a  preventive  the  trees  may 
be  painted  around  the  base  or  trunk  with  a  mixture  of  lime  and  sulphur  with  a 
little  salt;  this  last  named  ingredient  will  cause  the  other  two  to  adhere  more 
firmly  to  the  stem  or  the  trunk.  Take  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  lime  to  one 
pound  of  sulphur,  with  one-third  pound  of  salt.  This  is  about  the  same  pro- 
portion as  the  lime  and  sulphur  formula.  The  amount  given  here  will  be  enough 
to  make  four  gallons  of  wash.  Slake  the  lime  in  a  vessel  containing  hot  water, 
about  one-third  of  the  total  required.  Add  the  sulphur  while  the  lime  is  slak- 
ing; it  will  mi.x  easier  if  it  has  been  previously  made  into  a  thick  paste.  Add 
the  salt  last.  This  may  be  allowed  to  cook  over  a  slow  fire  for  a  time,  stirring 
once  in  a  while.  Then  add  enough  water  to  the  mi.xture  to  make  about  four 
gallons.  While  I  do  not  say  that  this  is  a  sure  cure  for  the  borer,  it  will  act  as 
a  preventive  and  check  its  spreading.  It  may  be  applied  with  a  spray  pump  or 
or  brush;  the  former  will  reach  the  crevices  better.  The  operation  is  a  simple 
one,  takes  little  time,  and  positively  does  not  injure  the  trees. 

San  Jose  scale  was  brought  east  from  California  about  twenty-five  years 
ago,  and  ten  years  ago  it  began  to  spread  so  rapidly  that  it  almost  seemed  as 
if  the  fruit  trees  were  doomed.  My  first  experience  with  it  dates  back  about 
fourteen  years.  I  had  at  that  time  some  Peaches  and  Nectarines  in  tubs,  and 
as  the  pest  was  new  to  me,  it  got  beyond  my  control,  with  the  result  that  the 
trees  were  chopped  down  and  burned.  This  was  not  a  bad  thing  to  do  at  the 
time,  as  I  did  not  know  how  to  fight  them,  and  they  seemed  to  thrive  on  the 
ordinary  remedies.  But,  thanks  to  the  valuable  information  given  out  by  our 
Experiment  Stations,  especially  in  connection  with  indoor  fruit,  this  pest  now 
causes  us  little  worry. 

The  scale  must  be  fought  when  it  is  first  detected.  If  the  trees  are  allowed 
to  become  infested,  the  scale  will  play  havoc  with  the  bark,  causing  it  to  appear 
dried  up,  and  it  will  suck  the  life  out  of  the  trees.  Hydrocyanic  acid  gas  will 
easily  keep  the  scale  down.  This  fumigation  must  be  done  while  the  trees  are 
perfectly  dormant.  The  Peach  and  Nectarine  will  stand  a  considerable  amount 
of  gas  when  the  buds  are  dormant,  with  seemingly  no  injury  to  the  buds.  They 
may  be  kept  fairly  free  from  scale  by  light  fumigation  every  year.  It  calls  for 
very  little  work.  Be  careful  to  stop  up  all  crevices,  for  if  the  gas  escapes  into 
an  adjoining  house,  it  may  do  damage  to  a  growing  crop.  I  have  used  ten  ounces 
of  cj'anide  of  potassium  fused  50  per  cent,  for  every  1000  cubic  feet  of  space, 
with  no  apparent  injury  to  the  trees.     But  I  prefer  to  use  the  gas  before  the 


PEACHES  AND  NECTARINES  iig 

scale  makes  any  headwaj',  taking  about  se\en  ounces  for  every  looo  cubic  feet, 
fused  50  per  cent.  For  every  pound  of  cyanide  take  one  quart  of  sulphuric 
acid  and  two  quarts  of  water.  Use  earthenware  receptacles.  First  place  the 
water  in  the  jar,  according  to  the  amount  of  acid  that  is  to  go  in.  Then  pour 
in  the  sulphuric  acid,  and  finally  the  cyanide.  This  completes  the  operation. 
For  a  house  fifty  feet  long  prepare  three  vessels,  as  the  fumigation  is  so  much 
stronger  than  for  growing  stock.  Do  not  remain  in  the  house  after  dropping 
in  the  cyanide;  get  out  at  once  and  close  the  door  tight.  Bear  in  mind  that 
the  combination  in  the  jars  develops  a  deadly  gas,  which  is  not  to  be  handled 
carelessly;  but  with  proper  precaution  there  is  no  danger.  Leave  the  house 
closed  up  for  one  hour,  and  then  throw  open  the  ventilators.  This  fumigation 
will  free  the  house  from  all  insect  pests,  even  mealy  bug.  The  United  States 
Department  of  Agriculture  publishes  a  pamphlet  on  this  method  of  fumigation, 
which  gives  explicit  directions  as  to  the  precautions  to  be  taken.  This  has  had 
several  years'  test  and  the  results  are  quite  satisfactory. 

Green  fly  is  occasionally  troublesome  in  the  peach-house,  especially  during 
the  period  when  the  fruit  is  setting.  This  is  precisely  the  time  when  the  grower 
is  handicapped  in  fighting  it,  for  he  cannot  spray  until  the  fruit  is  set,  nor  can  he 
fumigate.  Green  fly  will  play  havoc  with  the  young  foliage.  The  foliage  will 
curl  up,  turn  yellow  and  lose  its  vitality  if  the  fly  is  allowed  to  remain  on  it  for 
any  length  of  time. 

When  the  fruit  is  set,  the  fly  may  be  cleared  out  very  quickly,  for  the  trees 
can  again  be  sprayed  both  in  the  morning  and  the  afternoon;  this  will  check 
the  fly's  progress.  Spray  also  everj-  ten  days  with  a  solution  of  whale  oil  soap, 
using  just  enough  soap  to  color  the  water.  This  is  a  preventive  against  green 
fly,  red  spider  or  any  other  insect  pest,  and  it  will  give  the  foliage  a  glossj',  . 
healthy  appearance.  First  dissolve  the  soap  in  hot  water,  and  then  pour  enough 
into  the  water  intended  for  spraying  the  trees  to  soften  it,  but  no  more.  I 
believe  that  this  treatment  is  of  benefit  to  the  foliage,  aside  from  destroying 
insects,  for  after  a  couple  of  applications  the  foliage  will  look  as  if  it  were  polished. 
Good,  clean,  healthy  foliage  is  the  first  requisite  for  perfect  fruit;  the  latter, 
indeed,  cannot  be  finished  satisfactorily  unless  the  foliage  is  in  perfect  shape. 

I  have  never  found  mildew  troublesome  in  the  peach-house,  when  proper 
attention  is  given  to  the  airing.  Air  the  house  freely;  too  much  coddling  will 
invite  all  kinds  of  diseases.  With  good  management,  there  are  not  many  fungi- 
cides to  fight  under  glass.  But  there  is  one  disease,  generally  the  most  notice- 
able, which  needs  close  watching,  namely,  fruit  rot  or  blight.  It  appears  in 
the  latter  part  of  Summer,  usually  after  a  spell  of  very  close,  muggy  weather. 
The  best  remedy  for  this  is  to  keep  the  house  a  bit  drier,  gather  immediately 
any  fruit  that  begins  to  decay,  and  destroy  it,  otherwise  this  fungous  disease 
will  spread  rapidly.  It  will  be  found  on  examination  that  the  decayed  part 
of  the  fruit  is  full  of  diseased  spores;  these  will  spread  if  left  to  remain  on  the 
tree,  and  will  affect  the  young  wood  next  to  the  diseased  Peach,  occasionally 
killing  it.  If  the  disease  is  allowed  to  go  unchecked,  it  will  cause  serious  trouble 
and  the  destruction  will  be  rapid.  As  a  precaution  against  this  disease,  whether 
it  appears  or  not,  keep  the  atmosphere  a  bit  dry.     There  is  no  danger  of  trouble 


I20  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

until  tlie  fruit  is  just  beginning  to  ripen.  I  have  never  been  troubled  with 
this  fungus  while  using  artificial  heat,  which  is  good  proof  of  the  beneficial  effect 
of  a  congenial,  bracing  atmosphere.  All  fungous  diseases  require  certain  con- 
ditions for  their  development  or  spreading.  As  I  have  said,  we  have  practically 
the  means  in  our  hands  for  creating  the  ideal  conditions  for  the  best  welfare 
of  the  trees  and  fruit.  We  have  no  storms  to  fight,  and  when  a  sudden  change 
in  temperature  occurs,  the  ventilators  may  be  closed  down.  Thus,  by  using  our 
judgment  in  providing  for  the  needs  of  our  trees,  we  can  keep  them  free  of  any 
of  these  diseases.  It  is  better  to  look  ahead  and  prepare  for  the  enemy  than 
to  try  and  fight  him  after  he  has  come. 


Peach  NoBi.iissF. 

To  anyone  not  acquainted  with  the  admirable  qualities  of  the  Noblesse  Peach,  its  appearance 

would  be  deceiving,  as  the  variety  is  a  little  deficient  in  color.     The  flavor,  however, 

is  rich  and  juicy.     It  is  an  excellent  midseason  Peach  for  forcing  purposes 


PEACHES  AND  NECTARINES 


CHAPTER     XVIII 


SELECTION  OF  VARIETIES  FOR  FORCING  PURPOSES 

THERE  are  enough  varieties  at  command,  both  of  Peaches  and  Nectarines, 
for  forcing  purposes,  to  satisfy  even  the  most  exacting.  It  is  a  truly 
wonderful  collection,  including  both  European  and  American  varieties, 
with  new  and  improved  kinds  appearing  from  time  to  time.  This  makes  the 
work  doubly  interesting  and  alluring.  But  we  must  keep  in  close  touch  with 
the  fruit,  as  experience  only  will  teach  us  how  to  judge  of  the  quality  of  the 
many  varieties  at  our  disposal.  This  applies  especially  to  the  grower  for  private 
use,  for  here  it  is  not  a  question  of  a  large  crop  at  one  time,  but  one  of  a  continu- 
ous supply  over  an  extended  period.  Different  varieties  should  therefore  be 
planted  in  a  house,  so  that  one  kind  will  succeed  another  without  interruption. 
As  I  have  already  stated,  it  is  possible,  with  the  proper  facilities  at  command, 
and  careful  selection  of  varieties,  to  have  a  continuous  supply,  either  of  Peaches 
or  of  Nectarines,  from  the  first  week  in  May  to  the  first  week  in  October. 

My  experience  of  the  kinds  that  I  recommend  extends  over  the  last  twenty 
years,  and  I  therefore  feel  sure  of  my  ground.  Every  up-to-date  fruit  grower 
should  take  note  of  the  different  varieties,  their  time  of  ripening,  etc.,  and  com- 
pare his  data  at  the  end  of  the  season.  Aside  from  its  interest,  this  plan  is  edu- 
cational, and  of  great  benefit  for  future  reference.  The  memory  may  be  trusted 
to  a  certain  extent,  but  the  notebook  is  often  more  faithful.  I  recommend 
the  notebook  habit  especially  to  the  younger  generation  of  gardeners,  for  they 
will  find  well-kept  notes  an  invaluable  friend  in  the  years  to  come.  What  we 
learn  by  our  own  experience  makes  the  deepest  and  most  lasting  impression. 

The  improvement  that  has  been  made  in  recent  years  seems  marvelous  to 
anyone  familiar  with  the  list  of  forcing  fruit  thirty  years  ago.  At  that  date 
there  was  some  excellent  material,  more  especially  of  Peaches  than  of  Nectarines. 
Of  the  latter  we  had  Hunt's  Tawny,  Balgowan,  Imperatrice,  Violette  Crosse, 
Red  Roman  and  a  few  others.  But  these  have  been  relegated  to  the  back 
shelf  in  favor  of  the  more  recent  introductions. 

The  late  Thomas  Rivers  of  Sawbridgeworth,  England,  made  it  his  life  study 
to  improve  the  different  varieties  of  fruit.  His  success  is  known  far  and  wide, 
and  he  has  left  a  monument  to  his  name  that  will  stand  for  generations  to  come 
Apples,  Pears,  Plums,  Peaches,  and  Nectarines,  and  his  early  Rivers  Cherry 
par  excellence,  have  all  been  enriched  to  a  wonderful  degree  by  his  skillful  work 
Thomas  Rivers  did  more  for  the  improvement  of  fruit  intended  for  forcing  pur 


,22  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

poses  tlian  any  other  man.  It  was  my  good  fortune  to  meet  this  leader  in  fruit 
culture  some  years  ago  while  on  a  visit  to  his  interesting  nursery.  His  lively 
discussion  of  his  various  experiments  is  still  fresh  in  my  mind.  I  remember, 
particularly,  his  pointing  out  to  me  his  first  Peach  tree  grown  in  a  pot,  which, 
I  think,  was  at  that  time  36  years  old,  and  wag  still  in  a  good  state  of  preser- 
vation.    It  was  the  pride  of  his  collection,  the  honored  tree  in  his  nursery. 

In  taking  up  the  selection  of  varieties  for  forcing  purposes,  which  is  as 
important  as  the  cultural  directions,  I  shall  first  give  a  list  for  early,  midseason 
and  late  houses,  for  this  division  is  necessary  if  an  extended  season  is  the  object. 
I  could  have  made  my  list  considerably  longer,  but  it  will  be  found  to  cover  the 
ground  thoroughly,  while  a  more  extensive  list  would  complicate  matters  for 
the  grower  not  in  close  touch  with  the  merits  of  each. 

The  European  varieties  should  be  relied  on  principally  for  indoor  work, 
although  any  one  preferring  a  yellow-fleshed  Peach  will  find  Foster  Peach  admir- 
ably adapted  as  a  forcing  kind,  finishing  up  with  intense  color  and  above  the 
average  in  size.  Crawford's  Late  will  also  produce  handsome  specimens  under 
glass.  Generally  the  white-fleshed  fruit  is  preferable  for  table  use,  but  a  tree  or 
two  of  the  yellow-fleshed  varieties  should  be  included  in  the  house,  for  with  their 
high  color  they  make  an  imposing,  massive  showing  on  the  table.  If  the>- 
combine  extra  large  size  with  this  color,  they  will  get  the  place  of  honor  and  be 
the  most  admired.  I  have  gathered  fine  specimens  of  Mountain  Rose,  which 
is  white-fleshed  and  fine  in  flavor. 

I  have  found  that  in  the  midseason  house,  which  is  started  considerably 
later  than  the  early  house,  it  is  well  to  plant  a  couple  of  fairly  early  sorts,  and 
have  the  others  come  along  in  succession. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  varieties  that  may  be  relied  upon  for  all  the  three 
houses,  in  their  order  of  succession  from  early  to  late  in  each  section: 

EARLY  HOUSE 

Nectarines — Cardinal,   Early   Ri\ers,   Advance,   Stanwick   Elruge. 
Peaches — Duchess  of  Cornwall,   Hale's   Early,    Peregrine,   Noblesse,   Duke 
of  ^'ork. 

MIDSEASON    HOUSE 

Nectarines— Early  Rivers,  Lord  Napier,  Stanwick  Elruge,  Humboldt, 
Spencer. 

Peaches— Early  Rivers,  Peregrine,  Dr.  Hogg,  Crosse  Mignonne,  Beilegarde, 
Princess  of  Wales. 

LATE  HOUSE 

Nectarines — Chaucer,  Pine  Apple,  Spencer,  Victoria. 

Peaches— Dymond,  Beilegarde,  Princess  of  Wales,  Thomas  Rixers,  Lady 
Palmerston. 

The  last-named  variety  is  not  especially  good  in  flavor,  but,  ripening  iust 
after  the  others  are  gathered,  it  will  extend  the  season  for  about  ten  days  longer, 


PEACHES  AND  NECTARINES  123 

which  may  at  times  be  a  consideration,  especially  so  when  large  quantities  of 
hothouse  fruit  are  produced.  Lady  Palmerston  may  be  improved  somewhat 
in  quality  by  allowing  it  to  remain  on  the  tree  until  it  is  fairly  well  ripened,  as 
it  is  naturally  a  firm  fruit. 

There  are  many  other  valuable  \arieties  to  be  recommended   for  forcing 
under  glass.     A  more  extended  list  may  therefor  be  of  scr\ice  here: 


Jl-^^. 


Peach  Goshawk 
A  very  large  niidseason  variety,  with  exquisite  flavor 


NECTARINES 


Albert  Victor — Large  green  with  dull  red  cheek;  ripens  about  the  same  time 
as  Pine  Apple. 

Byron — Very  highl\-  colored;  \ellow  flesh;  excellent  flavor.  Good  for 
growing  in   pots   or   tubs. 

Dryden — One  of  the  highest-colored  white-fleshed  varieties  that  I  know  of. 

EIruge — One  of  the  older  varieties,  with  fine  rich  flavor,  and  still  worthy  of 
a  place  on  the  fruit  list. 

Improved  Downton — A  variety  that  was  raised  from  the  Downton  Nec- 
tarine, which  is  a  decided  improvement  on  the  former. 


,24  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

Milton — A  very  fine  variety  for  eitiicr  piantino;  in  tiie  border  or  growing 
in  tubs.  It  is  higiily  colored  and  can  be  recomniended  for  its  handsome  appear- 
ance and  rich  flavor. 

Newton — Also  excellent  for  our  climate  and  particularly  good  for  growing 
in  tubs.  The  fruit  is  large,  with  white  flesh,  parting  freely  from  the  stone.  It 
has  a  distinct  Stanwick  flavor. 

Rivers  Orange — A  yellow-fleshed  sort;  not  quite  as  large  as  some  of  the 
others,  but  the  flavor  is  all  that  could  be  desired.  It  is  a  bit  earlier  than  its 
parent,  Pitmaston  Orange,  and  a  decided  improvement  on  the  old  standby. 


Albatross — A  fine  Peach;  seedling  of  Princess  of  Wales,  which  has  proved 
one  of  our  very  best  as  a  late  variety. 

Alexander — A  very  early  and  popular  American  variety,  with  a  brisk, 
juicy  flavor. 

Alexandra  Noblesse — Resembles  Noblesse  very  much.  \'ields  large  fruit, 
pale  green  in  color  with  a  very  rich  flavor.  A  strong,  robust  grower,  and  heavy 
crops  may  be  gathered  from  trees  grown  in  tubs. 

Dagmar — A  second  early;  very  downy  skin,  deep  rich  color,  and  handsome. 

Dr.  Hogg — Handsome  midseason  Peach  of  healthy  constitution  and  ex- 
cellent for  tubs  or  in  the  border. 

Foster  Peach — American  variety.  Undoubtedly  one  of  the  best  yellow- 
fleshed  varieties  for  growing  under  glass.  The  fruit  is  large,  rich  in  color  and 
highly  ornamental  for  indoor  work. 

Gladstone — Valuable  as  a  late   Peach. 

Goshawk  and  Dymond — These  two  resemble  each  other  and  ripen  at  the 
same  time.  Both  are  strong,  robust  growers,  and  are  good  \arieties  for  grow- 
ing in  pots  or  tubs.  They  are  somewhat  deficient  in  color,  but  the  fla\or  is 
all  that  could  be  desired. 

Early  Grosse  Mignonne — A  midseason  Peach  of  medium  size  and  excellent 
quality. 

Merlin— Seedling  from  Early  Grosse  Mignonne;  larger  than  its  parent 
and  particularly  rich  in  flavor,  ripening  at  about  the  same  time. 

Sea  Eagle — A  late,  very  large  Peach  of  good  color. 

Nectarine  Peach — So  named  because  its  skin  is  smooth,  like  that  of  a 
Nectarine;   it  can  be  highly  recommended  as  a  late  variety. 

Grawford's  Late — Highly  recommended  as  a  first-class,  late  Peach;  large 
and  handsome.  It  is  one  of  the  standard  varieties  for  outdoor  work,  but  can 
also  be  grown  under  glass. 

.Mountain  Rose — Can  be  relied  upon  lor  growing  under  glass  as  a  second 
early  Peach.  I  have  produced  very  fine  fruits  from  this  variety  both  in  the 
early  and  in  the  midseason  house;  it  is  of  good  quality  and  color. 

This  list  may  seem  longer  than  is  necessary,  but  it  is  very  interesting  to 
test  difl"erent  varieties.  Where  pot  or  tub  fruits  are  grown  extensively,  a  com- 
prehensive list  to  select  from  gives  opportunity  to  increase  and  vary  one's  col- 


PEACHES  AND  NECTARINES 


i|i|i|i|lTlTT|T[il 


Peach  Peregrine 


Peach  Thomas  Rivers 

The  above  two  varieties  will  meet  a  demand  for  large,  showy  Peaches — Peregrine  for 
midseason  and  Thomas  Rivers  as  a  late  kind 


126  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

lection,  for  when  grown  in  pots  or  tubs  fruit  trees  do  not  need  the  same  space 
as  those  set  out  in  the  border. 

The  list  might  be  still  further  extended,  but  1  tiiini-;  that  it  will  be  found 
sufficient  for  both  early  and  late  forcing.  I  have  omitted  some  of  the  earliest 
kinds,  for  the  reason  that  I  do  not  approve  of  growing  more  of  the  very  early  sorts 
than  is  necessarj^  as  the  midseason  and  late  Peaches  are  superior,  both  in  size 
and  quality.  The  grower  intending  his  fruit  only  for  the  market  and  anxious 
to  get  it  out  as  early  as  possible  will  probably  want  more  of  the  early  sorts. 


POT    FRUIT  CULTURE    AND    ITS    ADVANTAGES 


CHAPTER     XIX 

POT  FRUIT  CULTURE  AND  ITS  ADVANTAGES 
House  Suitable  for  Pot  Fruit 

POT  fruit  has  been  grown  for  many  years  with  much  success,  but  only 
in  the  past  ten  or  fifteen  years  has  it  been  grown  to  any  extent  in  this 
country.  When  this  method  was  first  started,  many  years  ago,  it 
was  generally  thought  that  it  would  be  impossible  to  produce  high  class  fruit 
under  these  conditions.  Growers  said  that  starvation  would  be  the  result, 
or  that  the  trees  would  be  exhausted  within  a  few  years.  But  time  and  ex- 
perience have  taught  us  differently.  It  has  been  proved  that  trees  adapt  them- 
selves admirably  to  this  restricted  way  of  growing,  and  that  they  are  capable 
of  carrying  good,  average  crops  every  year.  In  our  climate  the  life  of  the  trees 
may,  with  good  care,  be  safely  set  down  as  ten  or  fifteen  years,  and  this  is  long 
enough   to   satisfy    most    fruit    men. 

Not  only  are  the  trees  good  for  many  years,  but  the  fruit  taken  from  them 
is  of  excellent  quality,  with  intense  color.  The  Pear,  for  instance,  will  produce 
finer  fruit  here  under  the  pot  system  than  in  Europe.  Our  dry,  bracing  climate 
secures  a  good  set  annually.  The  improvement  in  Pears  grown  under  glass 
is  very  noticeable,  both  as  to  size  and  finish,  provided  the  proper  kinds  are 
selected.  In  speaking  of  this  class  of  fruit,  it  is  customary  to  use  the  term 
"  pot  fruit."  At  the  establishment  of  Thomas  Rivers  and  Son,  England,  which 
is  the  home  of  the  pot  tree  system,  pots  are  decidedly  preferred  to  tubs.  But 
there  is  a  wide  difference  in  atmospheric  conditions  between  England  and  our 
country;  the  former  has  a  moist,  moderate  climate,  while  that  of  the  latter  is 
dry,  often  with  extreme  heat.  Therefore,  tubs  are  to  be  preferred  here  when 
the  trees  get  large  enough  for  them.  When  I  first  began  to  grow  fruit  in  this 
country,  many  years  ago,  I  naturally  clung  to  the  training  of  my  boyhood  days, 
when  the  pot  system  was  used.  But  I  found  out  in  the  course  of  time  that 
the  pots  are  too  dry  and  hot  for  the  roots.  I  then  tried  plunging  the  pots,  but 
this  did  not  seem  congenial  to  the  roots,  and  I  then  tried  the  tubs.  I  now  recom- 
mend tubs  as  being  preferable  to  pots,  that  is,  wiien  tlie  trees  are  large  enough, 
or   from   a    15-inch   tub   up. 

The  advantages  of  growing  tub  fruit  are  many.  In  the  first  place,  the  work 
is  interesting  because  a  variety  of  fruit  can  be  grown  in  this  way.  I  may  say 
that  the  orchardhouse  is    one  of  the  most  tempting  of  the  whole  range,  from  the 


,28  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

time  that  the  trees  are  started  until  tiie  fruit  is  fully  developed;  particluarlj- 
so  when  the  trees  are  shapely.  An  orchardhouse  in  full  bloom  is  a  lovely  sight, 
but  to  see  those  little  trees  later  on  loaded  down  with  their  perfectly  developed 
fruit  calls  forth  exclamations  of  wonder  and  delight.  The  quantity  of  fruit 
that  can  be  grown  in  a  moderate-sized  house  is  truly  surprising. 

There  are  still  other  advantages  of  tub  fruit.  Many  a  house  stands  idle 
during  the  Summer  months  that  could  be  used  to  good  advantage  by  placing 
some  of  these  trees  in  them,  for  they  will  grow  well  in  any  light  house  where 
they  get  the  full  sunlight;  and  where  a  house  is  set  aside  for  tub  trees,  it  may 
be  used  for  other  purposes  for  four  months  of  the  year  at  least,  that  is,  with 
due  precaution  as  to  the  class  of  material  grown  therein.  Do  not  use  it  as  a 
planthouse,  for  it  may  become  infested  with  mealy  bug,  which  is  not  a  desirable 
guest  to  have  in  a  fruithouse.  The  orchardhouse,  moreover,  gives  results  the 
first  season,  if  pot  grown  trees  are  secured,  as  should  be  done.  Taking  every- 
thing into  consideration,  therefore,  pot  grown  fruits  have  many  advantages  in 
their  favor.  Apples,  Apricots,  Cherries,  Figs,  Pears,  Plums,  Peaches  and  Nectar- 
ines, all  adapt  themselves  to  the  orchardhouse  treatment.  But  a  good-sized 
house  is  necessary  to  grow  all  these  kinds  with  a  fair  complement  of  each. 

I  presume  that  most  of  this  class  of  fruit  is  grown  in  private  establishments, 
and  generally  with  one  house  set  aside  for  that  purpose.  All  the  fruit  men- 
tioned above  will  thrive  together,  with  the  possible  exception  of  Cherries.  My 
experience  with  Cherries  in  a  mixed  house  has  been  anything  but  encouraging, 
for  they  have  a  tendency  to  drop  their  fruit  before  stoning.  I  shall  have  more 
to  say  later  as  to  the  best  kinds  to  be  grown  under  glass  in  tubs  or  pots. 

As  regards  the  arrangement,  it  is  preferable  to  keep  each  kind  together  as 
much  as  possible,  since  they  will  not  all  bloom  at  the  same  time.  Pears,  Plums 
and  Apples,  when  in  bloom,  need  a  dry,  bracing  atmosphere,  or  it  will  be  diffi- 
cult to  dry  up  the  pollen.  If  we  ha\e  a  good,  bright  sun  during  this  period, 
there  is  little  cause  for  worry,  as  then  the  pollen  will  distribute  itself  freely  and 
a  good  set  will  be  almost  assured.  But  if  we  are  unfortunate  enough  to  get  a 
damp,  cloudy  spell  at  this  time,  it  is  best  to  keep  on  some  air,  with  more  fire  heat 
if  necessary.  Pears  and  Plums  will  absolutely  refuse  to  set  in  a  close,  humid 
atmosphere. 

In  ordering  trees  for  the  orchardhouse,  it  is  best  to  decide  beforehand 
what  style  of  tree  is  to  be  preferred,  whether  bush,  half  standard  or  pyramid. 
Half  standards  are  excellent  for  Peaches  and  Nectarines;  but  taking  all  things 
into  consideration,  I  decidedly  prefer  to  have  most  of  the  trees  in  pyramid  form. 
Trees  in  this  shape  certainly  give  a  house  a  more  finished  appearance.  A  pyramid 
Pear  or  Plum  tree  in  full  flower  is  a  handsome  sight.  There  is  no  bare  stem,  but 
a  fully  furnished  tree  from  the  tub  up. 

It  is  important  to  note  here  that  the  best  stock  obtainable  should  be  pro- 
cured. Get  good,  thrifty,  young  trees.  This  class  of  trees,  as  it  comes  from 
the  nursery,  requires  about  ii-inch  or  12-inch  pots  for  the  first  season.  One 
of  the  most  serious  blunders  that  we  can  commit  is  overpotting.  Trees  can  be 
kept  in  much  better  health  by  confining  them  to  comparatively  small  tubs. 
This  holds  particularly  good  after  we  have  had  the  tree  for  some  years.     With 


POT    FRUIT    CULTURE  AND    ITS    ADVANTAGES  129 

systematic  feeding  a  20-inch  tub  can  support  a  large  tree.  While  the  trees 
should  be  repotted  every  year,  they  do  not  therefore  require  a  larger  shift  each 
time;  they  can  often  go  back  into  the  same  size  pots  if  the  ball  is  reduced  some- 
what. This  may  seem  a  waste  of  labor,  but  if  a  tree  which  is  kept  for  ten  or 
fifteen  years  is  given  a  larger  shift  each  time,  the  tub  would  soon  be  an  ungainly 
one,  and  the  tree  would  not  thrive  so  well  as  when  the  ball  is  reduced  somewhat 
each  time  it  is  repotted.  By  all  means  repot  once  a  year.  The  new  soil  around 
the  roots  seems  to  give  the  tree  a  new  lease  of  life,  for  the  enormous  quantity  of 
water  required  during  the  growing  season  naturally  exhausts  the  soil. 

I  need  hardly  dwell  on  the  fact  that  this  kind  of  fruit  needs  close  attention. 
Any  neglect  or  any  carelessness  as  to  watering  or  feeding  will  soon  become  appar- 
ent, but  if  proper  care  is  given  to  the  trees,  they  will  yield  a  rich  harvest.  If 
the  orchardhouse  is  the  only  house  on  the  place,  fruit  may  be  gathered  for  at 
least  ten  weeks,  if  there  has  been  a  proper  selection  of  varieties.  When  the 
Peaches  and  Nectarines  are  over,  then  come  the  Plums  and  Pears. 

As  to  the  expense,  a  good-sized  house  maj-  be  stocked  for  a  nominal  sum. 
There  is,  moreover,  no  border  to  be  prepared,  for  the  tub  fruit  may  be  grown  in 
any  decent  house,  and  with  care  and  judgment  a  good  crop  is  assured  each  year. 
Many  of  our  best  fruit  growers  are  beginning  to  realize  the  advantages  of  pot 
fruit  culture,  and  this  branch  cf  our  profession  is  growing  apace.  A  large  number 
of  private  establishments  today  have  their  collections  of  pot  fruit,  and 
the  popularity  of  fruit  thus  produced  will  increase  as  its  requirements  become 
better  understood  by  our  growers.  The  grower  who  follows  closely  the  lines 
laid  down  in  this  book  will  surely  be  rewarded  by  good  crops. 

As  to  the  fruit  that  can  be  grown  successfully  in  the  orchardhouse,  Plums 
and  Apples  may  be  removed  into  a  somewhat  cooler  house  when  the  fruit  is 
fully  grown  and  commencing  to  color,  or  be  taken  even  outside,  if  protection  is 
provided  against  destruction  by  birds;  they  will  finish  up  to  perfection,  especi- 
ally Apples,  which  acquire  a  more  intense  color,  the  finishing  touch  so 
desirable  before  we  can  pronounce  the  fruit  perfect  in  everj-  detail. 


HOUSE  SUITABLE  FOR  POT  FRUIT 

While  the  success  or  failure  of  pot  fruit  depends  to  a  great  extent  on  its 
cultural  treatment,  yet  the  style  of  house  and  its  construction  should  be  care- 
fully considered.  Good  pot  fruit  may  be  produced  in  almost  any  glass  structure, 
if  the  house  is  light  and  in  a  position  where  the  trees  receive  the  full  benefit  of 
the  sun.  Orchardhouse  fruit  is  impatient  of  any  dry  atmosphere,  therefore  do 
not  use  much  cement  for  unnecessarj-  walks.  The  plainer  and  more  simple  the 
interior  construction  is,  the  better  it  is  for  the  health  and  vigor  of  the  trees.  No 
benches  are  needed.  The  best  flooring  for  setting  the  trees  on  is  the  natural 
border.  If  the  soil  is  inclined  to  be  soft,  give  it  a  good  coat  of  coal  ashes,  or 
any  other  material  that  will  hold  moisture.  This  will  give  to  the  border  a  neat 
and  clean  appearance.  One  walk  in  a  house  of  this  kind  is  sufficient.  Bear  in 
mind   that  the  orchardhouse  is  for  the  sole  purpose  of  producing    high-class 


,30  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

fruit,  and  tlie  interior  siiouid  tiierefore  he  as  plain  as  possible  and  free  I'rom  orna- 
mental work  or  unnecessary  masonry.  A  cement  floor  gives  a  neat  appear- 
ance to  a  house,  but  it  keeps  out  the  natural  moisture,  which  no  amount  of 
sprinkling  can  supply.     The  fruit  produced  under  these  conditions  will  not  be 


O     £  iJg 
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5  lit 


in  i 


satisfactory,  cither  in  size  or  llavor.  1  emphasize  this  seemingly  small  matter 
of  the  flooring  for  the  border,  for  much  depends  upon  the  natural  evaporation 
from  the  border,  as  regards  the  size  and  flavor  of  the  fruit.  It  is  the  close  atten- 
tion to  details  which  makes  for  success,  here  as  elsewhere. 


POT  FRUIT    CULTURE  AND    ITS    ADVANTAGES  131 

The  trees  may  be  arranged  along  the  border  to  suit  the  grower's  individual 
fancy,  so  long  as  they  are  not  overcrowded.  We  cannot  expect  the  best  results 
if  the  trees  stand  too  close  together.  Each  tree  must  be  clear  of  its  neighbor, 
so  that  both  the  foliage  and  the  fruit  may  get  the  full  benefit  of  the  light  and 
sun.  The  size  of  the  house  will  depend  upon  the  demand  made  upon  it,  and  it 
may  run  east  and  west  or  north  and  south,  according  to  the  location  at  command, 
though  it  would  be  preferable  to  have  it  run  north  and  south,  for  this  would 
give  all  the  trees  a  more  equal  sunlight.  An  even  span  roof  house  is  better  than 
any  other  shape.  It  may  vary  from  twenty  to  thirty  feet  in  width,  while 
the  length  will  correspond  to  the  number  of  trees  to  be  grown.  Set  the 
trees  about  four  or  five  feet  apart.  Although  this  may  look  a  bit  thin  for  the 
first  season,  the  house  will  be  furnished  nicely  the  second  year. 

One  of  the  main  points  to  be  considered  in  building  a  structure  of  this  kind 
is  head  room.  While  a  low  built  house  may  seem  ample  for  the  young  stock, 
yet  it  will  hardly  do  for  the  trees  as  they  increase  in  size  from  year  to  year. 
There  should  be  head  room  enough  along  the  sides  to  accommodate  trees  six 
feet  high,  or  in  other  words,  have  five  or  six  feet  from  the  border  to  the  eaves. 

Ventilation  is  of  vital  importance  and  it  should  be  plentifully  provided  for, 
both  at  the  top  and  bottom  on  each  side.  During  our  extremely  hot  spells  all 
the  ventilation  procurable  can  be  used  to  good  advantage.  Plenty  of  fresh  air 
as  the  fruit  is  ripening  will  be  found  to  improve  the  flavor,  which  is  all-important. 
I  think  I  have  made  it  plain  that  the  best  house  for  orchard  fruit  is  just  a  simple 
house  without  any  frills. 

For  the  heat  it  is  not  necessary  to  lay  in  a  large  sj-stem  of  pipes,  as  this 
fruit  does  not  require  any  extreme  temperatures.  In  fact,  too  much  artificial 
heat  is  decidedlj-  injurious,  especially  in  a  mixed  house,  such  as  those  contain- 
ing Pears,  Plums,  Apples,  etc.  Furthermore,  where  all  the  difl"erent  kinds  are 
grown  together,  I  am  not  in  favor  of  starting  the  trees  until  the  middle  of  Jan- 
uary. Not  that  it  is  impossible  to  do  so,  but  I  have  found  that  success  is  almost 
assured  if  they  are  started  after  the  turn  of  the  season,  whereas  if  done  before 
that  we  are  taking  chances  with  fruit  like  Pears  and  Plums,  whose  setting  qual- 
ities are  decidedly  more  uncertain  in  the  short  days  than  those  of  Peaches  and 
Nectarines.  As  to  the  amount  of  pipes,  or  the  heating  capacity  of  such  a  house, 
there  should  be  enough  heat  at  command  to  hold  the  temperature  at  50  even 
in  very  cold  weather,  a  temperature  that  would  be  sufficient  artificiallj-.  I 
indicate  here  the  requirements  merely  in  a  general  waj',  leaving  all  the  details 
of  construction  to  the  greenhouse  builders,  who  thoroughly  understand  their 
business.  While  the  style  of  house  may  seem  of  small  importance  to  the  super- 
ficial observer,  yet  experience  has  taught  us  that  if  we  want  to  carrj-  on  this 
work  successfully  year  after  year  and  have  our  trees  always  in  full  vigor,  we 
must  have  our  house  in  agreement  with  their  needs.  The  ideal  house  is  one 
that  will  give  off  an  abundance  of  moisture,  but  any  house  that  gives  ofl"  a  dry 
atmosphere  is  not  a  first  class  orchardhouse  and  will  not  produce  the  best  results. 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


CHAPTER     XX 


POT  FRUIT— CULTURAL  DIRECTIONS  AND  FEEDING 

POT  fruit  nia>-  be  started  into  growth  an\-  time  from  tiie  ist  of  January 
to  the  1st  of  Marcii,  according  to  the  demands  for  ripe  I'ruit.  If  the 
earliest  varieties  are  to  be  gathered  about  the  middle  of  May,  then  the 
house  must  be  closed  up  January  ist.  Bear  in  mind  that  the  fruit  must  be 
brought  along  gradually,  in  order  to  get  the  best  results.  In  private  establish- 
ments, where  there  is  other  fruit  to  depend  upon,  it  is  better  to  bring  on  the 
pot  fruit  a  trifle  later  in  the  season;  but  this  all  depends  on  circumstances.  Pot 
fruit,  when  well  grown,  is  a  pleasure  to  look  upon,  but  if  neglected  in  any  way, 
it  is  a  miserable  failure.  It  naturally  needs  closer  attention  than  trees  planted 
out  in  the  border.  If  the  orchardhouse  receives  good  care  as  to  watering,  feeding 
and  all  the  other  necessary  details,  it  will  more  than  repay  for  the  extra  labor 
bestowed  upon  it.  One  can  easily  get  enthusiastic  over  pot  fruit  in  good  con- 
dition. It  is  therefore  to  the  grower's  advantage  to  keep  his  trees  in  good  health, 
which  is  the  main  secret  of  success  in  this  line.  Any  one  who  undertakes  the 
culture  of  pot  fruit  must  have  a  love  for  his  calling.  Such  a  man  will  make  a 
success  of  it,  even  if  his  experiente  be  limited,  and  as  the  years  go  b\  and  lie 
gets  more  fully  acquainted  with  his  trees  and  their  requirements,  the\  JDccome 
as  companions  to  him.  This  work  is  indeed  intensely  interesting  from  start 
to  finish — watching  the  tree  from  the  de\elopment  of  the  blossoms  to  the  ma- 
turity of  the  fruit. 

I  ha\-e  heard  it  said  more  than  once,  that  pot  fruit  is  not  as  fine  as  that 
grown  in  the  border,  and  that  the  llaxor  is  not  quite  so  rich.  Where  such  is 
the  case,  the  pot  fruit  is  not  receiving  proper  care.  If  the  fruit  is  checked  in 
any  way  it  will  inevitably  show.  For  instance,  if  the  trees  are  allowed  to  suffer 
for  want  of  moisture  at  the  roots  two  or  three  times  while  the  fruit  is  de\eloping, 
or  if  too  much  water  is  given,  the  reaction  from  either  will  be  sufficient  to  pro- 
duce inferior  fruit.  Such  occurrences  are  apt  to  give  the  pot  fruit  a  bad  name 
unjustly.  But  I  can  say,  unhesitatiiigl.\ ,  that  the  flaxor  of  pot  fruit  properly 
grown  is  all  that  could  be  desired,  and  i.-i\u:\\  to  that  of  fruit  produced  in  any 
other  way. 

The  first  thing  to  be  taken  into  account  for  pot  fruit  is  the  temperature. 
When  starting  fruit  any  time  from  the  first  to  the  middle  of  Januar\,  a  night 
temperature  of  40°  is  needed  for  the  first  week,  increasing  the  day  temperature 
10  or  15  ,  according  to  the  weather  conditions.  As  the  buds  begin  to  swell, 
gradually  increase,  i)oth  night  and  day,  and  as  the  trees  are  coming  into  bloom, 


POT  FRUIT  CULTURE  AND  ITS  ADVANTAGES  13^ 

50  by  night  with  a  rise  of  10  or  15  by  day  will  be  agreeable.  The  main  object 
is  to  get  as  nearly  as  possible  to  Nature's  temperatures.  As  the  fruit  advances, 
the  heat  may  also  be  increased,  until  55°  or  60°  by  night  may  be  maintained, 
increasing  that  of  the  day  accordingly.  This  is  sufficient  for  the  artificial  heat. 
As  soon  as  the  outside  thermometer  registers  above  60°,  never  close  the  ven- 
tilators down  tight.  It  is  much  better  to  leave  a  couple  of  inches  of  air  on. 
Then  as  the  Summer  temperature  increases,  or  when  the  thermometer  no  longer 
falls  below  65  at  night  outside,  considerable  ventilation  can  be  kept  on,  for 
orchardhouse  fruit  delights  in  an  abundance  of  fresh  air,  provided  that  the  tem- 
perature does  not  fluctuate  too  much.  Herein  lies  the  secret  of  success  in  pro- 
ducing perfectly  developed  fruit.  We  have  in  our  hands  the  means  of  keeping 
a  fairly  even  temperature.  The  house,  though  covered  with  glass,  will  never 
become  too  hot,  if  there  is  plenty  of  ventilation,  even  in  extremely  hot  weather. 
The  great  advantage  of  having  this  fruit  under  glass  is  that  it  is  protected  against 
severe  storms,  and  when  a  cold  spell  comes  along,  as  happens  occasionalij' 
even  during  the  Summer  months,  the  ventilation  may  be  reduced  some,  which 
will  counteract  the  outside  conditions.  By  thus  regulating  the  temperature  we 
can  produce  fruit  in  the  orchardhouse  which  is  far  superior  to  that  grown  out- 
side. But  grow  your  pot  fruit  in  a  close,  humid  atmosphere,  and  you  will  pro- 
duce a  poor  quality,  with  thin  and  puny  foliage,  ready  to  catch  the  first  disease 
that  comes  along.  While  I  am  a  great  believer  in  plenty  of  fresh  air,  I  do  not 
wish  to  be  misunderstood  on  this  important  point.  It  would  be  a  serious  mis- 
take to  admit  fresh  air  regardless  of  the  temperature.  There  is  nothing  worse 
for  the  trees  than  a  cold,  cutting  wind.  Keep  as  even  a  temperature  as  possible, 
and  avoid,  above  all,  too  much  coddling.  Then  you  will  get  fine  flavor  and 
excellent  color. 

As  to  watering,  I  ha\e  always  found  that  a  man  proficient  in  the  art  of 
watering  is  a  most  valuable  help  in  greenhouse  work.  No  matter  how  care- 
fully the  potting  material  has  been  selected,  or  the  potting  may  have  been  done, 
careless  watering  will  ruin  the  best  of  preliminary  work.  This  holds  good 
especially  as  regards  pot  fruit.  If  a  plant  is  watered  to  the  extent  of  souring 
the  soil,  the  injurious  effect  is  difficult  to  remedy.  The  best  plan  to  follow  in 
watering  a  tree  is,  give  a  thorough  watering  so  as  to  penetrate  through  every 
particle  of  the  soil  in  the  tub  or  pot,  then  no  more  until  necessary.  It  is  im- 
possible to  give  definite  rules  here,  as  some  soils  dry  out  much  faster  than  others. 
The  experienced  grower  knows  the  importance  of  proper  watering,  which  re- 
quires thought  and  good  judgment.  Fruit  trees  will  take  a  liberal  supply  of 
water  when  in  full  or  active  growth;  but  be  careful  when  first  starting  up  the 
trees,  for  at  that  stage  the  roots  are  practically  dormant  and  too  much  water 
will  injure  them.  There  is  no  foliage  to  draw  the  surplus  moisture,  nor  is  there 
much  root  action.  When  first  turning  on  the  heat,  it  would  be  well  to  give 
the  trees  one  good  watering  and  then  no  more  until  absolutely  necessary,  or 
in  other  words,  keep  them  on  the  dry  side  until  growth  begins  and  the  root 
action  is  more  lively.  Increase  the  amount  of  water  as  the  growth  and  the 
foliage  increase,  but  never  sour  the  soil.  Overwatering  will  cause  the  roots 
to  decay,  and  you  will  have  a  sickly  lot  of  trees. 


,34  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

Plant  lil'c  finds  its  best  expression  througii  tiie  foliage.  The  surface  of  the 
tub  is  apt  to  mislead,  for  it  may  often  look  dry  on  the  surface  while  there  is 
plenty  of  moisture  underneath.  Therefore,  so  long  as  the  foliage  stands  out, 
bold  and  full  of  sap,  we  can  rest  assured  that  the  tree  is  not  suffering  for  want 
of  moisture  at  the  roots.  But  do  not  under  any  circumstances  allow  the  foliage 
to  wilt  for  lack  of  water.  The  grower  who  watches  and  studies  the  foliage 
carefully  can  judge  pretty  clearly  as  to  the  requirements  of  his  plants. 

The  trees  should  be  sprayed  two  or  three  times  a  day  in  bright  weather, 
from  the  time  they  are  started  until  they  commence  to  bloom.  Then  hold  off 
until  the  fruit  is  set.  On  very  bright  days  the  house  may  be  damped  down 
about  mid-day;  around  the  Pears  and  Plums  the  border  should  be  kept  a  bit 
drier,  for  the  pollen  of  these  does  not  dry  so  quickly  as  that  of  the  Peach  and 
Nectarine.  After  the  fruit  is  set  the  spraying  should  be  resumed,  both  morning 
and  evening  in  very  bright  weather,  while  in  damp,  muggy  weather  the  trees 
are  better  without  it.  Also  keep  the  border  damped  down  at  least  once  a  day, 
for  a  moist  atmosphere  is  beneficial  to  both  trees  and  fruit  when  the  latter  is 
in  full  growth.  Spraying  can  be  dispensed  with  as  the  fruit  commences  to 
ripen.  Keep  the  variety  that  is  ripening  a  little  drier  at  the  roots;  this  will 
enhance  the  flavor,  provided  that  it  is  not  carried  too  far,  for,  as  I  have  said, 
never  allow  the  tree  to  get  so  dry  that  the  foliage  will  flag. 

The  mode  of  fertilizing  the  blossoms  depends  on  the  time  when  our  trees 
come  into  bloom.  Bees  are  among  the  very  best  distributors  of  pollen.  They 
are  welcome  visitors  to  the  orchardhouse  in  bloom;  industriously  going  from 
flower  to  flower,  they  pollenate  each  and  every  one  perfectly.  If  the  trees  come 
into  flower  before  the  bees  leave  their  Winter  quarters,  then  artificial  means 
must  be  resorted  to,  or  hand-fertilization,  which  is  a  simple  operation.  The 
pollen  must  be  perfectly  dry,  and  this  may  be  easily  ascertained  before  going 
over  the  bloom.  When  dry,  it  can  be  readily  seen  flying  in  all  directions.  As 
the  pollen  gets  ripe,  so  that  it  will  distribute  easily,  apply  it  either  with  a  camel's 
hair  brush  or  with  a  rabbit's  tail  tied  to  a  stick.  I  prefer  the  latter.  Go  over 
the  blooms  once  at  mid-day  from  the  time  the  first  lot  of  flowers  are  ready  until 
they  are  all  set.  Just  brush  the  blooms  lightly.  If  the  pollen  is  in  good  con- 
dition, the  brush  will  be  loaded  with  it  in  a  short  time,  and  under  these  con- 
ditions the  set  will  be  perfect.  Where  Nature  has  free  sway,  she  provides  the 
different  kinds  of  insects  for  this  important  work,  but  in  producing  fruit  out  of 
their  natural  season,  artificial  pollenization  must  be  resorted  to.  When  one 
gets  familiar  with  the  work,  the  trees  may  be  gone  over  in  a  short  time. 

Feeding  is  another  point  where  the  grower  may  show  his  skill.  The  benefit 
of  systematic  feeding  is  very  pronoimced  in  pot  fruit.  The  amount  of  feeding 
that  these  trees  will  profitably  take  is  surprising,  when  it  is  increased  gradu- 
ally. The  novice  in  fruit  culture  must  study  this  important  question  long  and 
attentively  before  he  can  hope  to  e.xcel  with  pot  fruit.  I  could  write  a  whole 
book  on  the  subject  of  feeding  alone.  It  is  easy  enough  to  lay  down  the  main 
principles  and  the  benefits  to  be  derived  from  the  diff"erent  foods,  but  much 
depends  on  circumstances  and  individual  conditions.  A  healthy,  vigorous 
tree  can  absorb  more  food  to  good  advantage  than  a  weakly  growing  one.    There- 


This  Pear  is  a  seedling  from  the  old,  well-known  variety,  Louise  Bonne  of  Jersey, 
but  larger  and  finer  m  every  respect 


,36  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

fore,  it  is  not  wise  to  dictate  as  to  the  amount  of  feeding  tiiat  siiall  or  shall  not  be 
done  through  the  season  of  activity,  in  order  to  get  the  best  results.  All  I 
can  say  here  is:  keep  a  close  watch  on  your  trees  after  feeding,  both  as  to  the 
roots  and  the  foliage,  which  are  two  of  the  principal  life  organs  of  the  plant. 
If  we  find  roots  coming  to  the  surface  soon  after  feeding,  it  is  a  sure  sign  that 
it  is  agreeable  and  the  tree  is  receiving  sustenance. 

I  think  it  a  weakness  of  most  writers  on  this  interesting  question  that  they 
present  the  bright  side,  only  dwelling  on  the  benefits  to  be  derived  from  the 
food.  Of  course  it  is  more  pleasant  to  record  our  successes  than  our  failures. 
Still,  if  we  look  back  over  the  years  we  have  spent  in  cultivating  plants,  we 
cannot  close  our  eyes  to  the  serious  errors  we  may  have  committed  through 
over-feeding.  I  admit  that  I  have  been  at  fault  here  more  than  once,  but  I 
have  profited  by  what  I  have  learned  thereby,  although  it  has  often  caused 
me  worry  and  annoyance.  Defeat  is  a  bitter  pill,  while  success  tastes  sweet. 
No  young  grower  should  lose  heart,  even  though  things  do  not  at  first  come  up 
to  his  expectations.  Whoever  loses  his  grit  is  doomed  to  go  down;  the  man  who 
is  determined  to  profit  by  his  mistakes  will  come  out  victorious  in  the  end. 

Mistakes  along  these  lines  first  turned  my  thoughts  toward  the  study  of 
the  foliage.  This  is  a  study  worthy  of  the  consideration  of  every  grower.  The 
foliage  is  the  life,  or  the  lungs  of  the  plant,  and  if  it  is  not  perfect,  everjrthing 
is  lost.  If  we  are  carrying  a  heavy  crop  of  fruit  and  the  foliage  goes  wrong 
before  the  fruit  is  fully  developed  or  ripe,  it  will  be  a  miserable  failure.  We 
may  be  told  that  all  foliage  is  green  and  looks  alike.  Study  it  closely  and  you 
will  frnd  out  the  difference.  As  the  mother  of  a  family  need  only  look  at  her 
child  in  order  to  know  whether  it  is  well  or  ill,  so  the  good  florist  and  gardener 
can  judge  his  plants  by  their  appearance.  But  the  grower  must  love  his  plants 
as  a  mother  loves  her  child.  We  must  keep  our  foliage  full  of  sap  and  leathery 
to  the  touch,  full  of  substance,  with  the  veins  standing  out  pronounced.  Such 
foliage  will  help  to  produce  good  fruit  of  superior  flavor. 

By  way  of  preface  to  a  brief  explanation  of  systematic  feeding,  I  may  say 
that  it  is  far  better  not  to  feed  at  all  than  to  over-feed.  Feed  to  the  limit  and 
no  more.  I  do  not  advocate  strong  feeding  at  one  time,  but  prefer  it  light 
and  often.  There  is  not  so  much  danger  in  light  feeding,  and  more  can  be 
administered  to  good  advantage  during  the  season  in  this  way.  I  also  advise 
an  occasional  change  of  food.  The  main  point  in  bringing  a  crop  to  a  successful 
issue  is  to  keep  the  foots  acti\e.  Surface  dressing,  applied  about  every  ten 
days  or  two  weeks,  seems  to  gi\  e  a  new  lease  of  life  to  the  roots,  for  the  feeding 
roots  w'ill  absorb  it  within  a  few  days.  For  this  top  dressing  I  have  obtained 
the  best  results  with  Thomson's  manure  and  Ichthemic  guano,  used  alternately. 
Mix  it  in  the  proportion  of  eight  or  ten  parts  of  soil  to  one  of  manure,  and  put 
a  light  dressing  on  the  surface  of  each  pot  or  tub,  a  couple  of  handfuls  to  a  15-inch 
tub.  Apply  this  every  ten  days  or  two  weeks  if  your  trees  are  in  a  healthy 
condition. 

Watering  with  manure  water  three  or  four  times  during  the  season  is  good. 
The  drainage  from  the  farm  barn  is  excellent  for  this  purpose,  weakened  down 
with  clear  water.     I  find  occasionally  that  the  foliage  turns  a  bit  yellow,  or  loses 


POT  FRUIT  CULTURE  AND    ITS  ADVANTAGES  137 

the  green  color  so  much  desired,  especially  early  in  the  season  of  growth.  Bon 
Arbor  will  rectify  this  evil,  used  according  to  directions.  A  certain  amount 
of  lime  and  potash  is  essential  to  all  stone  fruit,  but  as  the  make-up  of  different 
soils  varies  considerably,  it  would  not  be  advisable  on  my  part  to  prescribe 
any  given  quantity.  It  is  enough  for  me  to  say  that  they  are  necessary  and 
should  be  applied  in  some  form.  If  lime  is  needed,  the  best  way  to  use  it  is 
in  the  potting  compost.  Wood  ashes  may  also  be  used  in  the  same  manner. 
With  a  regular  system  of  feeding,  a  large  tree  may  be  grown  in  a  comparatively 
small  tub,  with  results  in  favor  of  this  method. 

I  have  said  that  orchardhouse  fruit  delights  in  an  abundance  of  fresh  air; 
but  it  should  not  be  admitted  in  a  haphazard  way,  especially  during  February  and 
March  and  at  times  far  into  April.  If  a  cold,  cutting  wind  is  blowing  from  the 
east,  open  the  ventilators  on  the  west  side,  if  needed,  or  on  the  opposite  side, 
as  the  case  may  be.  The  main  object  in  view  is  to  avoid  cold,  cutting  winds 
while  admitting  air  whenever  the  conditions  call  for  it,  and  particularly  so 
when  the  trees  are  in  bloom,  as  too  much  coddling  at  this  stage  endangers  the 
desired  set.  Keep  a  circulation  of  air  (m  whenever  the  thermometer  registers 
above  60°,  and  as  the  hot  weather  sets  in,  admit  all  the  air  possible,  both  top 
and  bottom,  closing  the  bottom  ventilators  at  night,  but  leaving  the  top  ones 
on,  or  just  bringing  them  down  enough  to  shed  the  rain  in  case  of  storm. 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


CHAPTER     XXI 


POT  FRUIT— PINCHING  THE  SHOOT-THINNING  THE  FRUIT 

IN  growing  pot  fruit  it  is  well  to  bear  in  mind  that  it  entails  but  a  trifle  more 
labor  to  maintain  a  well-balanced,  shapely  tree.  This  may  be  secured 
largely  by  systematic  pinching  during  the  season  of  growth.  While  it 
is  not  necessary  to  pinch  to  the  extreme,  there  should  be  no  crowding  of  shoots. 
Have  each  shoot  free  and  easy,  so  that  the  sun  may  get  a  chance  to  penetrate 
through  the  branches.  The  tree  will  then  produce  far  superior  wood,  which  means 
Oner  fruit.  When  the  trees  start  into  growth,  there  are  often  many  more  shoots 
than  are  necessary  to  furnish  the  tree.  In  such  case  some  disbudding  may  be 
done;  or,  better  still,  pinch  back  to  two  or  three  leaves,  with  the  object  of  forming 
fruit  spurs  for  the  following  season.  E\ery  fruit  man  of  experience  knows  tiie 
value  of  a  tree  well  supplied  w^ith  fruit  spurs,  for  this  means  a  plentiful  suppl\- 
of  fruit,  generally  of  good  quality. 

Pot  fruit  may  usually  be  had  in  two  or  three  forms — bush,  half  standard 
and  pyramid.  The  two  former  call  for  the  same  treatment  as  regards  pinching. 
The  only  difference  between  them  is,  that  the  half  standard  has  a  foot  or  eighteen 
inches  more  of  clear  stem  than  what  is  termed  the  bush  form.  Peaches,  Nec- 
tarines, Cherries  and  Apricots  do  admirably  as  bush  and  half  standard;  while 
Pears,  Apples,  and  Plums  are  best  as  pyramids.  Peaches  and  Nectarines  make 
handsome  trees  in  pyramid  form.  Bush  and  half  standard  should  be  pinched 
back  when  the  new  shoot  has  reached  five  or  six  inches;  some  of  the  shoots  will 
need  pinching  before  others,  for  a  well-balanced  tree.  The  vigor  of  the  tree 
will  determine  as  to  how  many  times  it  is  to  be  pinched  during  the  season.  Some- 
times certain  shoots  will  be  found  to  take  the  lead  or  will  grow  much  stronger 
than  others;  these  must  be  kept  pinched  back  or  be  cut  away  altogether.  If 
ail  the  shoots  break  away  again,  as  they  undoubtedly  will,  pinch  again  at  five 
or  six  inches,  and  if  the  branches  crowd  too  much,  thin  away  some  of  the  useless 
growths.  By  pinching  in  this  manner,  there  will  be  no  serious  trouble  with 
lateral  growths. 

Pyramids  require  somewhat  closer  attention  than  the  bush  forms  to  keep 
them  in  proper  shape.  The  growth  of  pyramids  will  generally  commence  on 
the  top;  therefore,  the  most  advanced  shoots  should  be  pinched  first.  In  an\ 
case,  pinch  the  bottom  shoots  last,  as  the  strength  is  more  apt  to  leave  the  bottom 
branches  in  preference  for  the  shoots  higher  up,  so  the  bottom  growth  must  be 
encouraged  rather  than  pinched  too  freely.     Attention  should  also  be  paid  to  the 


POT  FRUIT  CULTURE  AND   ITS  ADVANTAGES  139 

center  shoot.  Keep  the  main  center  growth  erect  each  year,  otherwise  it  will 
be  impossible  to  secure  a  well-balanced  tree.  It  is  not  necessary  to  pinch  pyra- 
mids very  severely — at  about  the  third  or  fourth  leaf.  Then,  as  the  growth 
advances,  pinch  again  as  recommended  for  the  first  pinching.  If  the  trees  are 
growing  satisfactorily,  pyramids  will  need  pinching  about  three  times  during  their 
season  of  growth,  with  the  exception  of  the  weaker  shoots.  The  pinching  may 
be  discontinued  toward  the  later  part  of  the  season,  as  there  is  then  danger  of 
exciting  the  back  dormant  eyes.  It  is  also  advisable  to  have  one  stake  to  each 
pyramid,  so  as  to  secure  an  erect  growth,  and  give  the  tree  a  neat  appearance. 

If  these  instructions  are  followed,  the  trees  may  be  kept  in  a  fairly  evenly- 
balanced  form,  with  the  exception  of  Cherries,  Apricots  and  Figs,  which  have 
a  tendency  to  be  a  bit  ungainly.  Cherries,  in  particular,  will  produce  a  few 
strong  shoots,  while  the  rest  of  the  growth  forms  into  spurs  or  clusters  of  fruit 
buds.  The  strong  shoots  must  be  pinched  a  few  times  during  the  season,  but 
do  not  pinch  Cherries  too  severely.  Apricots  should  be  pinched  about  exery 
fifth  leaf,  to  prevent  them  from  occupying  more  space  than  they  are  entitled 
to.  I  do  not  recommend  the  Apricot  highly  for  pot  work,  though  it  may  find 
a  place  in  the  orchardhouse  where  a  variety  of  fruit  is  desired. 

The  same  applies  to  the  Apple,  which  makes  a  handsome  showing  in  the 
pot,  and  extra  large  fruit  may  be  obtained  in  this  way,  but  our  open  air  cli- 
mate is  so  favorable  for  its  perfect  development  that  I  should  recommend  it  for 
the  orchardhouse  more  as  a  curiosity  than  otherwise.  Some  years  ago  I  had 
some  twenty  or  thirty  varieties  of  Apples  under  glass.  The  crop  was  an  excel- 
lent one  and  the  size  also  was  good,  but  for  flavor  and  quality  I  would  just  as 
soon  have  an  Apple  from  the  open  orchard.  Apples  grown  in  pots  are  very 
ornamental  and  excel  most  other  fruits  for  appearance. 

Figs  can  be  grown  successfully  in  pots,  but  they  are  handled  best  in  a  com- 
partment b}'  themselves,  for  the  Fig  will  produce  two  crops  of  fruit  during  the 
season  and  when  the  first  crop  is  gathered  the  second  will  be  improved  by  keeping 
in  a  closer  atmosphere  until  they  commence  to  ripen.  I  shall  take  up  the  cul- 
ture of  the  Fig  later. 

THINNING  THE  FRUIT 

Pot  fruit  is,  as  a  rule,  w^ell  supplied  with  fruit  buds.  Considerable  thinning 
must  generally  be  done,  for  the  trees  should  not  be  allowed  to  carry  more  than 
an  average  crop  each  year.  For  the  first  season,  if  the  nursery  stock  is  of  the 
best  and  well  supplied  with  fruit  buds,  and  large  enough  for  ii-inch  or  12-inch 
pots,  Peaches  or  Nectarines  may  carry  ten  or  twelve  fruits  each;  this  depends 
on  the  variety,  for  some  allowance  should  be  made  for  an  extra  large  growing 
variety. 

Plums  usually  set  their  fruit  very  freely,  if  a  fairly  dry,  bracing  atmosphere 
has  been  maintained  during  their  period  of  blooming.  This  means  that  consider- 
able thinning  wull  have  to  be  done,  as  the  plum  will  not  attain  to  the  highest 
perfection  when  overcropped.  Only  dessert  or  table  Plums  should  be  selected 
for  this  purpose,  and  therefore  quality  should  be  considered  rather  than  quan- 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


Plum  Denniston  Superb 

This  represents  the  top  of  a  Plum  tree  grown  in  a  tub,  which  has  carried  a  heavy  crop  annually  for 

ten  years,  and,  as  the  picture  shows  plainly,  is  still  healthy  and  full  of  vigor 


POT  FRUIT  CULTURE   AND    ITS  ADVANTAGES  141 

tity.  A  good,  thrifty  Plum  tree  should  bear  the  first  year  from  thirty  to  forty 
fruits,  according  to  the  variety  or  size  of  fruit. 

Apples  and  Pears  may  bear  the  first  season  from  six  to  twelve  fruits,  accord- 
ing to  the  variety.  Kinds  like  Souv.  de  Congress  or  Pitmaston  Duchess  Pear 
may  carry  five  or  six.  More  fruit  may  be  left  on  each  year  as  the  trees  increase 
in  size.  A  Peach  or  a  Nectarine  which  has  developed  normally  for  fi\e  or  six 
years  should  be  capable  of  carrying  a  crop  of  fifty  fruits  or  more. 

The  thinning  of  the  fruit  should  be  done  by  degrees.  This  applies  par- 
ticularly to  Pears,  for  these  have  at  times  a  habit  of  dropping  their  fruit,  until 
they  pass  a  certain  stage,  or  the  fruit  is  a  little  larger  than  the  thumb;  after 
that  there  is  less  danger.  Peaches  and  Nectarines  may  receive  their  final  thin- 
ning when  the  fruit  is  about  the  size  of  a  Walnut.  Some  writers  advocate 
leaving  on  a  surplus  until  they  have  passed  their  period  of  stoning,  and  it  is 
probably  well  to  do  so  where  there  is  any  difficulty  with  fruit  dropping  while 
stoning.  But  I  think  that  when  the  wood  is  thoroughly  ripened  in  the  Fall 
and  the  trees  are  subjected  to  the  due  amount  of  frost,  they  are  not  very  likely 
to  drop  their  fruit  while  stoning.  If  this  surplus  fruit  is  allowed  to  stay  on 
the  tree  until  the  stoning  is  completed,  the  tree  is  taxed  unnecessarily,  or  at 
the  expense  of  the  average  crop,  for  after  the  stoning  is  completed,  it  does  not 
require  much  more  strain  to  ripen  the  fruit.  It  is  well  to  understand  the  nature 
of  orchardhouse  fruit. 

As  I  have  already  explained  the  method  of  gathering  Peaches  and  Nec- 
tarines, in  the  section  on  Peaches  and  Nectarines  under  glass,  I  will  refer  the 
reader  to  those  pages. 

The  Pear  is  perhaps  the  most  exacting  of  all  fruit.  If  gathered  too  soon, 
it  will  shrivel  and  be  useless,  and  if  left  too  long  on  the  tree,  it  will  become  over- 
ripe. A  Bartlett  or  a  Madame  Treyve,  or  any  Pear  of  that  nature,  if  gathered 
in  proper  season,  is  firm,  rich  and  juicy,  but  loses  its  flavor  if  allowed  to  hang 
too  long,  becoming  soft  and  almost  disagreeable.  When  the  fruit  separates 
readily  when  lifted  to  a  horizontal  position,  or  the  stalk  leaves  the  wood  spur 
without  any  pulling,  it  is  a  fairly  sure  indication  that  it  is  in  the  best  possible 
condition  for  picking.  If  the  fruit  is  then  kept  for  a  week  or  ten  days  in  a  cool 
dark  room,  or  until  it  has  turned  to  a  golden  yellow,  it  will  be  firm,  rich  and 
juicy.  If  allowed  to  stay  on  the  tree  until  o\er-ripc,  it  will  be  decidedly  flat 
and  mushy. 

Plums,  on  the  contrary,  may  be  allowed  to  hang  until  they  come  off  with 
the  slightest  touch,  retaining  their  full,  rich  flavor.  Varieties  like  The  Czar, 
Mallard  or  Denniston  Superb,  Golden  Esperen  and  many  others  are  ideal  for 
table  use,  and  when  highly  finished  are  eagerly  sought  after  as  a  dessert  luxury. 
They  surpass  in  richness  of  flavor  any  Plums  that  are  grown  in  the  open  field 
or    garden. 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


CHAPTER    XXII 


POT  FRUITS-TROUBLESOME  DISEASES  AND  INSECT  PESTS 

ONE  of  the  best  preventives  against  fungous  growths  and  noxious  pests 
is  a  clean  start.  The  very  ijest  time  for  house  cleaning  is  when  the 
trees  are  dormant.  They  may  then  be  cleaned  in  short  order  by 
fumigating  with  hydrocyanic  acid  gas,  if  the  grower  understands  how  to  use 
it,  but  in  careless  hands  this  may  cause  considerable  damage.  I  have  described 
the  method  of  handling  it  in  another  chapter,  to  which  I  refer  the  reader.  The 
trees  may  also  be  washed  down  where  time  is  no  object,  and  here  also  it  should 
be  noted  that  it  is  not  safe  to  use  a  very  strong  wash  on  the  fruit-bearing  wood 
of  Peaches,  Nectarines,  Apricots,  etc.  The  safest  way  is  to  wash  all  the  wood 
except  the  fruiting  wood,  as  the  fruit  buds  are  very  easily  damaged.  This 
may  not  be  noticed  until  the  trees  have  started  growth,  when  the  injured  fruit 
buds   will   drop  instead   of  developing. 

A  solution  of  whale  oil  soap  makes  a  very  good  wash,  using  enough  soap 
to  cause  a  lather,  provided  the  same  strength  is  not  used  on  the  fruit  buds. 
Gishurst's  compound  also  makes  a  good  wash. 

With  a  clean  start  half  the  battle  toward  having  clean  fruit  trees  during 
their  season  of  growth  is  accomplished — that  is,  with  good  treatment — but 
carelessness  in  the  matter  of  temperature  or  checks  of  any  kind  will  invite  the 
spread  of  insect  pests  and  diseases.  Insects,  as  a  rule,  will  not  attack  a  strong, 
vigorous  tree  half  as  readily  as  they  will  a  weak  one,  and  the  same  may  be  said 
of  fungous  diseases.  Any  pot  tree  that  shows  signs  of  weakness  or  deterioration 
should  be  discarded,  regardless  of  age;  it  is  only  occupying  valuable  room  to  no 
purpose,  and  will  cause  no  end  of  trouble.  Two  or  three  sickly  trees  among 
fifty  healthy  ones  will  show  up  more  prominently  than  all  the  others  put  to- 
gether, thus  detracting  from  the  appearance  of  the  house. 

Green  fly  undoubtedly  causes  more  trouble  among  pot  trees  than  it  does 
when  it  attacks  trees  planted  in  the  border,  that  is,  when  they  are  in  blossom 
and  before  the  fruit  is  set.  With  free  use  of  the  syringe,  there  is  no  excuse 
for  green  (ly.  Anyone  who  has  handled  pot  fruit  knows  what  havoc  green  fly 
may  make  within  a  few  days.  It  spreads  rapidly  and  the  damage  which  it  can 
accomplish  within  a  short  time  is  almost  incredible.  It  is  much  better  to  fumi- 
gate the  house,  in  order  to  eradicate  the  pest,  than  to  spray  the  trees  too  severely; 
and  smoking  the  house  a  few  nights  in  succession  is  better  than  too  strong  an 
application  at  one  time. 


POT  FRUIT  CULTURE  AND  ITS  ADVANTAGES 


Pear   Mme.  Treyve 
This  photograph  represents  the  top  of  a  tub  Pear  tree  cropped  annually  for  eleven  years, 
shows  the  productiveness  of  the  Pear  trees  and  their  adaptability  for  growing  in  pots  or  tut 


,44  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

Different  materials  may  be  used  for  fumigation  witii  good  effect.  Years 
ago  the  old  reliable  remedy  was  tobacco  stems,  but  witii  the  great  advance  that 
has  been  made  in  the  greenhouse  industry-  within  the  last  twenty-five  years  we 
have  more  modern  insecticides  with  which  to  fight  insect  pests.  Our  thanks 
are  due  to  the  manufacturers  for  putting  the  various  nicotines  and  formulas 
upon  the  market  in  a  condensed  form,  which  simplifies  our  labors,  and  makes 
them  more  effective.  Each  grower  prefers  his  own  particular  brand  of  insecti- 
cide. As  the  old  saying  goes,  "  There  are  no  two  alike."  If  we  all  were  of  the 
same  mind,  trade  would  soon  fall  away.  If  you  have  found  an  insecticide  that 
means  death  to  the  insect  with  no  harm  to  the  tree,  hold  on  to  it,  until  you  are 
fully  satisfied  that  you  have  found  something  better. 

Manufacturers  of  insecticides  and  fungicides  have  kept  pace  with  the 
greenhouse  builders  and  the  growers,  so  that  we  now  have  an  excellent  assort- 
ment of  these  remedies.  An  effective  insecticide  or  fumigant  around  the  green- 
house is  the  best  friend  of  the  gardener  or  florist.  Nico-fume,  tobacco  paper 
and  aphis  punk  are  excellent  for  eradicating  both  green  fly  and  black  fly.  Nicoti- 
cide  and  XL.  AH  fumigating  liquid  may  also  be  used  with  excellent  results. 
Full  instructions  for  using  the  different  brands  are  given  with  each.  It  is  well, 
however,  to  be  cautious  in  using  a  new  insect  eradicator  until  thoroughly  ac- 
quainted with  its  virtues.  It  is  an  easy  matter  to  increase  the  strength  grad- 
ually, until  the  desired  results  are  obtained.  An  overdose  is  injurious  to  plant 
life.  It  is  important,  also,  to  select  a  suitable  evening  for  fumigating.  It  should 
be  a  calm,  quiet  night,  for  two  reasons:  The  smoke  will  stay  in  the  iiouse 
longer,  and  it  will  distribute  itself  more  evenly  over  the  whole  interior.  Abo\e 
all  things,  avoid  fumigating  too  strongly. 

The  spread  of  red  spider  depends  chiefly  upon  the  man  employed  in  syring- 
ing the  trees.  It  is  not  so  much  a  question  of  the  quantity  of  water  used,  as 
of  the  way  in  which  it  is  done.  I  am  opposed  to  very  heavy  spraying.  The 
main  point  in  fighting  this  pest  is  to  spray  underneath  the  foliage  effectively, 
which  any  man  can  do  who  is  interested  in  his  work.  A  check  in  any  way — 
lack  of  moisture  at  the  roots,  or  any  other  neglect — will  induce  the  spread  of 
red  spider,  thrips  and  other  troubles.  The  best  policy  here  is  to  adopt  measures 
that  will  prevent  their  appearance,  but  if  they  do  come,  in  spite  of  all  precau- 
tions, then  eradicate  them  as  quickly  as  possible,  which  can  be  done  by  effective 
spraying,  pro\ided  there  is  a  good  force  of  water. 

Leaf  roller  is  a  very  destructive  little  insect,  which  is  more  trouble- 
some among  Pears,  Plums,  Apricots,  Cherries  and  Apples  than  among 
any  other  fruit.  It  is  more  noticeable  in  some  seasons  than  in  others,  and  if 
allowed  full  sway  it  will  do  considerable  damage.  It  usually  appears  just  as 
the  young  foliage  begins  to  unfold,  at  a  stage  when  we  cannot  fumigate  or  spray 
because  the  trees  are  in  blossom.  It  is  easy  to  detect  on  the  tender  foliage, 
and  may  often  be  found  among  the  fruit  blossoms,  busily  eating  off  the  pistils, 
thereby  destroying  both  bloom  and  fruit.  Nearly  all  of  these  noxious  pests 
have  a  clever  way  of  protecting  themselves;  though  diminutive  in  body, 
they  are  strong  enough  to  roll  up  the  leaf,  with  the  help  of  their  web,  hiding 
inside,  as  a  protection  against  harm.     Or,  they  will  fasten  two  leaves  together 


POT  FRUIT  CULTURE  AND  ITS  ADVANTAGES  145 

with  their  line  web  and  hide  between  them.  It  is  extreme!}-  interesting  to  watch 
this  insect  and  its  marvelous  modes  of  protection,  but  for  all  its  ingenuity  we 
are  compelled  to  fight  it  if  we  want  to  preserve  our  crops.  The  amount  of  damage 
the  leaf  roller  can  do  in  its  short  span  of  life  is  enormous.  The  only  remedy 
that  I  can  suggest  is  to  hand-pici<  the  insects  from  the  leaf  or  the  blossom  before 
they  make  much  headway.  To  my  mind  there  is  nothing  more  unsightij-  than 
injured  foliage,  aside  from  the  fact  that  it  prevents  the  development  of  perfect 
fruit. 

Mildew  must  also  be  guarded  against.  It  will  spread  rapidly  under  certain 
atmospheric  conditions,  such  as  sudden  changes  in  temperature,  or  too  close 
an  atmosphere,  or  in  other  words,  coddling.  Some  sections  of  the  countrj-  are 
more  subject  to  mildew  than  others.  Trees  tiiat  ha\e  once  been  attacked  by 
mildew  are  more  readily  infected  a  second  time;  but  it  is  as  easy  to  check  the 
spread  of  mildew  in  the  orchardhouse  as  in  the  peach-house,  by  proper  attention 
to  airing.  If  there  is  a  sudden  change  in  the  temperature,  even  during  the 
Summer  months,  reduce  the  air  somewhat;  and  be  careful  not  to  syringe  the 
trees  in  very  cloudy  or  damp  weather.  A  light  dusting  of  the  infected  tree  with 
powdered  sulphur  will  also  check  mildew. 

Borers  will  attack  all  the  fruit  trees  except  Pears,  which  they  do  not  seem 
to  trouble  much.  Neither  will  they  make  the  same  headway  with  Plums  as 
with  Peaches  and  Nectarines.  Thej-  must  be  fought  as  soon  as  detected. 
Their  burrows  must  be  opened  up  with  a  knife.  Sometimes  they  are  difficult 
to  get  at;  in  this  case  use  a  piece  of  wire  and  probe  down  until  you  strike  them, 
for  it  is  a  question  of  killing  the  borer  or  the  borer  killing  the  tree. 


146  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


CHAPTER     XXIII 


POT  FRUIT— TREATMENT  OF  TREES  AFTER  THE  FRUIT  IS 
GATHERED 

AFTER  the  crop  is  gathered,  pot  fruit  should  receive  the  same  treatment 
as  ail  other  trees.  Give  them  all  the  care  possible  in  the  way  of  water- 
ing, spraying  and  even  a  light  feeding  once  in  a  while.  This  will  build 
up  the  wood  and  bring  the  buds  to  the  highest  state  of  perfection.  If  these 
trees  are  treated  carelessly  in  any  way,  they  cannot  be  expected  to  yield  a  rich 
crop  the  following  season.  They  may  be  placed  outdoors,  preferably  in  a  shel- 
tered location,  where  they  receive  the  full  benefit  of  the  sun.  A  position  near 
the  greenhouse  will  be  found  to  be  convenient  for  the  man  in  charge;  then  the 
trees  will  be  more  likely  to  receive  their  due  share  of  attention.  Trees  in  tubs 
require  enormous  quantities  of  water  in  their  growing  season.  This  exhausts 
the  soil,  even  though  heavy  feeding  has  been  done  throughout  the  Summer 
months;  therefore,  repotting  or  retubbing  should  be  done  once  a  year,  the  best 
time  for  this  operation  being  the  Fall,  just  as  the  fruit  buds  are  fully  developed, 
or  the  foliage  is  taking  on  its  Autumn  cast.  It  Is  not  necessary  to  wait  until 
the  trees  are  bare  of  leaves.  I  prefer,  in  fact,  to  retub  before  they  ha\e  lost 
all  their  foliage.  Early  forced  trees  are  ready  for  retubbing  before  late  fruit, 
although  there  may  be  only  a  difference  of  ten  days  or  so.  The  trees  are  usually 
in  good  shape  for  repotting  from  the  middle  to  the  end  of  October.  !  hen, 
again,  the  soil  in  the  tubs  should  be  considered  with  regard  to  moisture;  it 
should  be  in  such  a  condition  that  c\erything  works  freely  when  reducing  the 
ball.  On  no  account  retub  the  trees  when  the  ball  is  very  wet;  neither  should 
it  be  too  dry;  always  try  to  strike  the  happy  medium.  As  every  ball  must  be 
reduced  some,  it  will  be  much  more  easily  done  if  the  soil  is  just  right,  and  the 
roots  will  Ix'ucfit  in  luning  the  soil  friable.  The  amount  of  the  reduction  must 
be  left  to  the  grower's  judgment,  but  it  is  a  serious  mistake  to  over-pot.  For  a 
Peach  or  Nectarine  that  has  been  bearing  fruit  for  eight  or  ten  years  a  tub  fifteen 
or  sixteen  inches  in  diameter  inside  measurement  should  be  sufficient;  by  this 
may  be  figured  the  reduction  necessary  if  the  trees  are  repotted  once  a  year. 
The  roots  will  more  readily  take  hold  of  the  new  potting  material  after  being 
reduced.  Loosen  out  all  the  roots  around  the  ball  and  shorten  back  with  a 
sharp  knife  any  coarse  stragglers.  A  clean  cut  will  callus  over  readily,  whereas 
a  rough  cut  may  cause  decay.  The  fibrous  roots  are  the  main  support  and 
these  should  be  taken  care  of.     The  best  way  to  reduce  the  ball  is  to  use  an  iron 


POT  FRUIT  CULTURE  AND  ITS  ADVANTAGES  147 

prong  one-quarter  to  one-half  an  inch  in  diameter,  with  tiie  end  a  bit  pointed. 
With  this  an  inch  or  so  of  the  old  soil  may  be  removed  without  breaking  the 
roots,  leaving  a  network  of  fibrous  roots  around  the  ball  in  condition  to  work 
their  way  into  the  potting  material  after  repotting. 

Fruit  trees  may  be  seen  growing  luxuriantly  in  tiie  open  field  or  orchard, 
producing  an  abundance  of  fruit  in  an  apparently  sandy  soil,  particularly  Peaches 
and  Nectarines.  But  to  use  a  sandy  soil  for  fruit  in  the  orchardhouse,  where 
the  trees  are  confined  to  small  root  space,  is  the  first  step  toward  inviting  failure. 


Nor  would  it  be  well  to  go  to  the  other  extreme  and  use  a  iieavy  clay  soil.  While 
it  may  be  impossible  to  secure  in  every  instance  just  the  right  kind  of  soil,  the 
best  obtainable  should  be  used  for  the  purpose.  The  ideal  soil  is  a  good,  rich, 
fibrous  loam,  such  as  has  been  laid  down  in  pastures  for  some  years — soil  with 
good  body  to  it,  but  not  of  a  sticky,  clayey  nature. 

It  is  best  to  prepare  the  soil  three  or  four  months  in  advance.  If  the  sod 
land  is  available,  it  may  be  plowed  or  dug  three  or  four  inches  thick,  and  if  it  is 
full  of  fibre  it  may  be  stacked  into  a  compost  heap,  adding  one  load  of  good, 
rich  farmyard  manure  to  every  three  loads  of  soil.  Some  writers  recommend 
the  addition  of  a  small  quantity  of  old  mortar,  but  this  is  not  necessary  if  soil  of 
the  proper  texture  is  selected.     It  is  not  advisable  to  depend  on  the  mortar. 


,48  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

as  there  are  now  cliflerent  compositions  used  in  plastering.  While  the  sod 
should  have  body  or  lasting  qualities  to  it,  it  must  also  be  of  such  a  nature  as 
to  allow  water  to  pass  through  freely.  As  a  guide,  I  have  found  that  soil  which 
will  grow  Roses  and  Carnations  satisfactorily  will  also  grow  orchardhouse  fruit. 
A  week  before  retubbing  the  trees,  chop  down  the  compost  and  turn  it  over, 
to  incorporate  the  manure  thoroughly  with  the  soil.  As  heavy  rains  in  the  Fall 
may  occasionally  interfere  with  the  work,  it  is  well  to  put  the  potting  material 
under  shelter,  adding  a  fair  sprinkling  of  ground  bone  and  hardwood  ashes. 
This  will  be  all  that  is  needed.  I  am  not  in  favor  of  making  the  compost  over- 
rich,  but  prefer  to  give  surface  feed  when  the  trees  are  in  active  growth.  I 
would  use  the  soil  in  a  fairly  coarse  form,  as  it  then  does  not  sour  so  easily,  and 
the  roots  will  be  more  lively  in  a  coarse  compost. 

Drainage  is  all  important.  It  is  not  always  a  question  as  to  how  much 
drainage  shall  be  put  into  the  bottom  of  a  tub  or  pot,  but  rather  how  best  to 
prevent  the  fine  soil  from  percolating  through.  Whether  there  is  one  or  two 
inches  of  drainage  in  the  bottom,  it  should  be  kept  free  from  fine  soil.  A  thin 
layer  of  sod  will  answer  the  purpose;  or  a  layer  of  half  rotten  manure  or  any 
thing  of  that  kind  will  stay  the  soil  and  prevent  the  clogging  of  the  drainage. 

In  retubbing  it  is  essential  to  firm  the  soil  thoroughly  around  the  roots, 
adding  a  small  quantity  at  a  time  to  make  sure  that  it  is  worked  evenly  around 
the  roots.  Above  all,  guard  against  too  large  a  shift.  I  know  that  it  is  much 
easier  to  repot  by  giving  a  liberal  shift  than  a  moderate  one.  Deep  potting  is 
also  a  serious  error;  the  depth  should  be  sufficient  to  just  cover  the  surface  roots. 
Use  a  suitable  potting  stick  or  rammer  about  one-half  inch  thick  and  two  or 
three  inches  wide,  long  enough  to  reach  the  bottom  of  the  pot.  The  soil  must 
be  made  as  firm  at  the  bottom  as  at  the  top.  When  the  potting  is  done,  the 
trees  may  get  one  good  watering.  Let  them  remain  outdoors.  I  prefer,  in 
fact,  to  leave  them  out  as  long  as  possible,  or  until  severe  freezing  sets  in. 
Ten  or  fifteen  degrees  of  frost  will  do  no  harm.  It  is  natural  for  fruit  trees  to 
have  frost,  and  a  certain  amount  is  beneficial.  But  in  the  case  of  potted  trees, 
the  pots  must  be  buried  in  soil  to  prevent  the  frost  from  destroying  the  pots. 
I  have  occasionally  left  the  trees  outside  until  the  end  of  December,  with  the 
result  that  when  they  were  started  every  bud  came  away  perfect,  with  extra 
strong  blossoms.  In  Europe  the  trees  are  not  allowed  much  frost;  but  con- 
ditions are  different  here.  Toward  Fall  the  wood  of  our  trees  is  extra  ripe,  so 
that  a  few  degrees  of  frost  will  not  affect  the  buds.  Try  the  experiment  of 
taking  in  one  half  of  your  trees  and  leaving  the  other  iialf  outside  as  recom- 
mended, and  I  am  sure  that  ever  afterward  you  will  allow  your  trees  to  get  a 
certain   amount  of   freezing. 

The  trees  will  not  need  mucli  pruning  if  they  lia\c  received  good  atten- 
tion during  their  season  of  growth  in  the  way  of  systematic  pinching  or  thin- 
ning away  any  crowded  branches.  Still,  there  must  be  some  Winter  pruning, 
which  may  be  done  any  time  after  the  wood  is  ripened.  Do  not  use  pruning 
shears  on  the  trees.  While  much  work  can  be  accomplished  with  them,  yet 
the  man  who  takes  a  genuine  pride  in  his  trees  will  always  use  the  keen-edged 
pruning  knife. 


POT    FRUIT   CULTURE  AND   ITS   ADVANTAGES  149 

Before  going  into  details  as  to  the  methods  of  pruning,  it  may  be  well  to 
offer  a  few  words  on  the  peculiarities  of  some  varieties.  Peaches  and  Nec- 
tarines in  general  call  for  the  same  treatment  in  pruning,  if  the  conditions  are 
favorable;  but  at  times  some  kinds  are  exceedingly  shy  of  wood  buds.  There- 
fore, we  cannot  always  prune  as  we  would  like.  One  of  the  principal  points 
to  remember  in  pruning  is,  always  prune  to  a  wood  bud,  making  a  clean  cut 
close  to  the  bud.  Do  not  leave  any  wood  beyond  the  bud,  as  any  wood  left 
will  eventually  decay.  If  the  cut  is  made  close  to  the  bud  the  wound  will  soon 
heal  over.  Most  of  the  fruit  buds  of  Apples  and  Pears  are  produced  from  spurs, 
therefore  both  of  these  trees  can  be  pruned  fairly  close. 

The  aim  in  pruning  is  to  keep  the  correct  form  of  the  tree,  whether  it  be 
pyramid,  bush  or  half  standard.  Pears,  Apples,  Plums,  and  the  freest  growing 
Peaches  and  Nectarines  make  handsome  pyramids;  but  any  kind  of  Peach  that 
is  a  bit  shy  in  producing  wood  buds  is  best  as  a  bush  or  half  standard,  as  it  could 
not  be  kept  in  a  symmetrical  pyramid  shape.  While  pyramids  should 
not  be  pruned  back  too  severely,  any  projecting  shoots  should  be 
pruned  back,  and  if  there  are  any  signs  of  overcrowding,  the  poorest 
shoots  should  be  treated,  for  no  good  fruit  can  be  expected  from  a  tree  that 
is  overcrowded  with  useless  wood.  The  object  in  a  pyramid  is  to  encourage 
growth  on  the  bottom  branches  as  much  as  possible,  and  this  may  be  accom- 
plished mainly  during  the  growing  season  by  proper  attention  to  pruning. 

Cherries  and  Plums  are  usually  plentifully  supplied  with  spur  wood,  or 
rather  fruit-bearing  spurs,  and  as  these  generally  do  not  produce  much  surplus 
wood,  only  the  wood  that  projects  need  be  pruned  back,  so  that  both  bush 
and  half  standard  may  be  kept  in  decent  shape.  They  should  be  trained  into 
as  much  of  a  bush  form  as  possible,  but  the  bottom  branches,  like  those  of  the 
pyramids,  should  not  be  pruned  too  severely;  some  of  the  smaller  shoots  need 
not  be  pruned  at  all.  If  the  highest  branches  show  an  inclination  to  rob  the 
sap  of  the  lower  or  weaker  ones,  shorten  them  back.  Remember  this  rule  for 
obtaining  the  best  results:  Never  allow  too  much  wood  to  remain  on  the  trees, 
particularly  in  the  bush  and  half  standard.  The  sun  must  be  able  to  penetrate 
through  the  branches,  then  there  will  be  fine  fruit  with  excellent  color.  Apri- 
cots should  always  be  grown  in  bush  or  half  standard  form,  and  be  treated 
accordingly,  for  they  grow  a  bit  ungainly. 


Beurre  Hardy  is  one  of 

flavor,  and  the  tre 


lar^e  and  of  f\cellent 
■        ouble 


FRUIT    ADAPTED    FOR    ORCHARDHOUSE    WORK 


CHAPTER     XXIV 


VARIETIES  OF  FRUIT  ADAPTED  FOR  ORCHARDHOUSE  WORK 

THE  variety  of  fruit  that  may  be  grown  in  the  orciiardhouse  and  the  long 
lists  to  select  from  must  seem  bewildering  to  any  not  in  close  touch 
with  the  work.  A  proper  selection  is  very  important.  Nothing  but  the 
very  best  should  be  used  for  the  purpose.  It  costs  no  more  to  produce  the 
choicest  kinds  than  the  ordinary  varieties.  A  man  working  among  fruit,  who 
is  a  keen  observer  of  plant  life,  will  notice  more  and  more  as  he  progresses  the 
many  peculiarities  of  plants.  The  strangest  thing  about  this  fascinating  work 
to  me  is,  that  the  more  deeply  we  go  into  it,  the  more  our  own  weak  points  are 
brought  home  to  us.  Gardening  is  one  of  the  oldest  professions  in  existence, 
and  no  matter  how  proficient  one  may  be  there  is  always  much  more  to  learn 
about  it.  To  an  outsider  it  may  seem  strange  that  one  can  follow  a  certain 
line  year  after  year,  and  after  spending  a  lifetime  in  the  work,  be  compelled 
to  say  that  there  are  details  which  have  not  yet  been  thoroughly  mastered 
or  fully  understood.  When  we  notice  any  improvements  we  feel  as  if  the  road 
ahead  was  clear,  but  when  reverses  come  an  unfathomable  mystery  seems  to 
hang  over  our  work.  Seasons  vary.  We  rarely  get  two  in  succession  that 
are  alike.  It  is  true  that  we  have  a  glass  roof  over  our  trees;  but  we  cannot 
always  give  them  the  exact  climatic  conditions  that  they  want.  If  there  is  a 
deficiency  of  sun  when  a  certain  lot  of  fruit  is  ripening,  they  are  sure  to  suffer 
for  the  lack  of  it.  This  is  more  apparent  in  a  house  of  Grapes  when  they  are 
starting  to  color  than  in  orchardhouse  fruit. 

It  is  the  same  with  fruit  grown  in  the  field  or  garden.  It  is  much  finer 
in  color  and  size  and,  above  all,  in  flavor,  in  some  seasons  than  in  others.  I  do 
not  mean  to  imply  that  fruit  grown  under  glass  will  vary  to  the  same  extent 
as  fruit  left  for  Nature  to  take  care  of.  Nevertheless,  the  proper  outside  climatic 
conditions  contribute  to  our  successes,  while  inclemencies  bring  failure.  I 
dwell  on  this  point,  for  the  grower  is  often  criticised  because  his  fruit  is  a  bit  off 
flavor,  or  less  perfect  in  some  way  than  that  oif  the  previous  year,  although 
he  may  have  given  it  the  best  attention,  according  to  his  skill  and  judgment. 
But  he  should  not  become  discouraged  if  a  crop  falls  short  once  in  a  while.  There 
is  this  to  be  said  in  favor  of  the  orchardhouse  method  of  producing  fruit,  that  a 
good  crop  every  year  is  assured. 

In  my  list  of  the  fruit  best  adapted  to  the  orchardhouse  work,  I  shall  select 
only  the  choicest  varieties,  adding  a  few  words  as  to  the  most  reliable  kinds. 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


Plum  Oullin's  Golden 

A  very  large  variety.    Requires  more  thinning  than  some  of  the  other  kinds;  otherwi 

the  full  size  will  not  be  obtained,  nor  will  the  flavor  be  so  rich 


Tlic  Peach  and  tlic  Nectarine  stand  out  pre-eminent,  and  get  first  place,  as 
being  admirably  adapted  for  growing  in  pots  or  tubs.  If  both  early  and  late 
varieties  arc  selected,  ripe  fruit  may  be  had  for  several  weeks,  even  in  one  house 
only.  Nectarines  should  find  more  favor  than  Peaches,  as  many  of  them  have 
a  distinct  llavor.  But  both  Peaches  and  Nectarines  have  a  decidedly  rich 
flavor  wlun  grown  in  tubs,  and  give  a  never-failing  crop  from  year  to  year, 
which  is  a  recommendation  worthy  of  note.  All  varieties  may  be  grown  in 
tubs,  still  there  are  a  few  that  may  be  a  little  more  difficult  to  keep  in  a  sym- 
metrical form,  on  account  of  their  habit.  Each  kind  has  its  own  peculiar  char- 
acter. Some  varieties  will  produce  wood  buds  more  freely  than  others,  and 
these  are  the  desirable  ones,  especially  if  the  tree  is  to  be  kept  in  pyramid  form. 
It  is  absolutely  necessary  here  to  prune  at  the  wood  bud.  The  Bellegarde, 
for  instance,  will  at  times  be  found  shy  in  wood  buds — so  much  so  that  the 
terminal  growth  cannot  be  shortened.  Any  tree  that  shows  sparingly  in  wood 
buds  may  be  grown  more  successfully  in  bush  form.  There  are  not  many  that 
exhibit  this  deficiency,  but  we  have,  on  the  contrary,  more  than  we  need. 

Pears  come  next  on  our  list.  They  have  been  cultivated  successfull>  n<Av  for 
many  years  in  the  orchardhouse,  and  their  merit  is  fully  recognized.  It  has, 
in  fact,  been  admitted  time  and  again  that  Pears  are  improved  to  a  wonderlui 
degree  with  indoor  treatment.  Many  an  exhibition  table  has  been  graced 
with  noble  specimens  from  the  orchardhouse,  that  for  size,  perfect  shape  and 
combination  of  rich  color  and  finish  it  would  be  impossible  to  produce  in  out- 
door grown  fruit.  The  habit  of  the  tree  is,  moreover,  ideal  for  the  purpose. 
It  makes  a  splendid  pyramid  and  can  be  kept  in  good  form  with  very  little  work. 
A  good  average  crop  can  be  had  from  year  to  year,  and  the  tree  will  keep  in 
a  healthy,  vigorous  condition  for  a  long  time.  There  are  quite  a  number  of  va- 
rieties that  can  be  recommended  for  the  purpose.     Some  are  much  richer  in 


FRUIT  ADAPTED  FOR    ORCHARDHOUSE    WORK  1 53 

flavor  than  others.  Botli  Beurre  Hardy  and  Conference  have  a  richness  of 
flavor  that  cannot  fail  to  please  the  lover  of  Pears.  Where  a  few  extra  large 
specimens  are  desired,  Pitmaston  Duchess  and  Souv.  de  Congress  will  produce 
single  fruit  weighing  from  one  to  one  and  one-half  pounds,  if  the  tree  is  thinned 
with  that  object  in  view.  Our  orchardhouses  are  ideal  for  producing  perfect 
specimens,  and  these  pyramid  trees  loaded  with  fruit  are  a  pleasing  sight  to 
look  upon.  Therefore,  I  unhesitatingly  place  the  Pear  next  to  the  Peach  and 
Nectarine  for  orchardhouse  work.  With  good  treatment  they  will  give  an 
average  crop  every  year. 

Plums  are  third  in  order.  While  they  do  not  present  such  an  imposing 
sight  as  the  Pear,  yet  they  will  enrich  the  collection  and  help  to  make  the  fruit- 
house  more  attractive.  Plums  are  a  valuable  addition  as  a  dessert  fruit,  both 
as  to  richness  of  flavor  and  handsome  appearance.  Table  Plums  chiefly  should 
be  grown  in  the  orchardhouse.  Allow  them  to  get  perfectly  ripe  before  gather- 
mg,  and  you  have  a  very  rich  fruit  worthy  of  gracing  any  table.  Plums,  how- 
ever, have  their  peculiarities,  which  are  difficult  to  explain.  In  the  first  place, 
they  must  be  finished  to  perfection,  in  order  to  be  rightly  appreciated,  and 
this  means  that  the  tree  should  not  receive  any  check  during  the  season  of  ma- 
turity. If  Plum  trees,  just  as  the  fruit  begins  to  ripen,  are  placed  outside, 
with  a  wire  screen  as  a  protection  from  the  birds,  they  will  finish  up  much  more 
satisfactorily  than  in  the  house.  It  is  probable  that  the  natural  dews  at  night 
are  beneficial  to  the  fruit  at  that  stage  of  ripening.  This  may  seem  a  curious 
argument  and  it  may  be  said  that  if  such  is  the  case,  the  trees  might  be  left 
outside  altogether.  To  this  I  reply  that  the  fruit  will  be  much  finer  If  left  inside 
until  it  starts  to  ripen.  I  strongly  recommend  this  mode  of  treatment  for  a 
good  Plum  crop,  for  if  they  are  put  outside  a  sheltered  location  is  necessary. 
It  has  happened  to  me  more  than  once  that  one-half  of  a  crop  would  ripen  on 
a  tree  of  the  earliest  kind,  while  the  rest  would  absolutely  refuse  to  soften.  But 
if  I  set  them  outside  at  this  stage,  the  difficulty  would  seem  to  be  o\ercome. 


The  Mallard  Plu 


,54  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

I  suggest  that  the  skeptical  give  this  method  a  trial,  by  taking  one  half  of  their 
trees  outside  and  leaving  the  other  half  in  the  house.  It  will  probably  not 
take  more  than  a  year  to  convince  anyone  of  the  decided  benefit  to  be  derived 
from  my  method. 

There  is  a  splendid  \ariety  of  material  to  select  from.  Oullin's  Golden, 
Denniston's  Superb,  Mallard,  and  others  are  a  veritable  dessert  luxury. 

Cherries  grown  in  pots  or  tubs  in  our  climate  are  more  often  a  failure  than 
a  success.  From  my  experience  I  am  compelled  to  place  them  on  the  doubtful 
list,  because  of  the  uncertainty  of  their  crop.  I  have  experimented  considerably 
with  them  at  different  times,  allowing  the  trees  a  certain  amount  of  frost,  and 
also  testing  them  by  the  non-freezing  method,  in    the  hope  of   having  assured 


A  very  early  purple  Plum;  tree  a  free  cropper.     May  be  relied  on  to  give  good 
satisfaction  when  grown  inside 

crops.  If  they  were  not  a  failure,  I  at  least  did  not  have  the  desired  success. 
So  taking  everything  into  consideration,  I  cannot  recommend  fruit  about 
which  the  uncertainty  is  so  great.  While  I  regret  this,  I  must  advise  according 
to  my  experience.  The  American  grower,  as  a  rule,  wants  to  handle  varieties 
with  which  he  feels  reasonably  sure  of  success.  If  I  could  recommend  the 
Cherry  with  the  same  confidence  as  the  Peach  or  Nectarine,  I  would  say,  by 
all  means  add  Cherries  to  your  list  of  orchardhouse  fruit.  The  tree  itself  is 
of  excellent  constitution,  and  may  be  kept  in  vigorous  health  for  many  years, 
and  the  crop  would  naturally  have  advantages  over  some  others,  for  the  early 
Cherries  mature  ahead  of  most  other  fruit.  The  Cherry  tree  produces  an  abun- 
dance of  fruit  blossoms,  but  our  extremely  hot  sun  occasionally  seems  too  much 
for  them,  and  generally  the  bulk  of  the  blossoms  drop  off,  or  at  least  fall  before 
stoning.  If  you  are  anxious  to  secure  a  good  crop  and  have  enough  trees  to 
make  it  worth  while,  put  shades  on  the  house,  just  heavy  enough  to  break  the 
strong  rays  of  the  sun,  and  they  may  be  rolled  up  when  the  sun  begins  to  lose 


FRUIT    ADAPTED   FOR   ORCHARDHOUSE    WORK  155 

its  strength.     This  shading  will  be  the  most  beneficial  when  the  fruit  is  setting, 
and  again  when  stoning.     Do  not  feed  much  until  the  fruit  is  stoned. 

Apricots  have  been  grown  successfully  under  glass  for  many  years.  In 
the  open  field  or  garden  the  trees  will  bloom  when  the  temperature  is  compara- 
tively low;  therefore  success  will  be  more  certain  inside  if  they  can  be  brought 
along  gently.  They  set  freely,  but  the  size  of  the  fruit  is  apt  to  be  discouraging. 
I  can  attribute  this  only  to  premature  ripening.  While  the  tree  may  have  been 
brought  along  in  a  moderate  temperature  until  the  fruit  is  all  set,  the  extremely 


Pear  Pitmast 
not  uncommon  1 


n.^lU  lb; 


high  temperature  with  which  we  have  to  contend  at  times  is  decidedly  against 
it,  and  this  I  believe  is  one  of  the  causes  of  ripening  before  the  desired  size  is 
reached.  The  Apricot  will  undoubtedly  thrive  better  in  a  more  even,  moist 
climate.  I  well  remember  seeing  many  years  ago  a  crop  of  Apricots  on  an  open 
wall  in  the  north  of  Scotland.  The  trees  were  absolutely  loaded  with  fine, 
rich,  juicy  fruit.  When  I  compare  such  specimens  with  the  results  of  our  efforts 
here,  I  must  admit,  regretfully,  that  we  cannot  produce  their  equal  in  our  scorch- 
ing Summers.  But  better  results  will  be  obtained  in  the  orchardhousc  than 
by  open  air  culture.     That  means,  of  course,  in  the  northern  States.     It  atmos- 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


Experience  has  taufjlit  nit 
althousli  the 


Pear  Conference 
:  Conference  Pear  is  one  of  the  riches 
is  not  so  imposing  as  some  of  the 


table  Pears  tha 
ther  varieties 


pheric  conditions  of  these  States  were  agreeable  to  the  best  development  of  the 
Apricots,  we  should  see  them  growing  freely  and  producing  a  bountiful  crop, 
particularly  as  they  ripen  in  advance  of  the  Peach.  While  we  may  see  the 
Apricot  tree  growing  luxuriantly,  it  is  minus  its  important  part,  the  fruit,  or 
at  least  a  satisfactory  crop.  The  failure  of  the  Apricot  has  been  attributed  to 
early  blossoming,  combined  with  Spring  frosts,  by  which  considerable  damage 
is  done.  If  a  stock  can  be  secured  for  budding  the  Apricot  on,  that  will  witii- 
stand  our  extremes  of  heat  and  cold,  there  may  be  a  partial  success  with  this 
choice  fruit.  Heavy  crops  of  it  are  produced  annually  in  the  more  temperate 
climate  of  California.  I  should  like  to  give  as  good  a  recommendation  to  the 
Apricot  as  I  can  to  the  Peach  and  the  Nectarine,  the  Pear  and  the  Plum,  but  I 
cannot  do  so  conscientiously,  as  the  facts  are  against  it. 

Figs  are  admirably  adapted  for  growing  in  pots  and  tubs.  Their  tendency 
to  rank  growth  may  be  overcome  in  a  measure  by  the  close  confinement,  which 
produces  a  firmer  growth,  and  this  means  a  greater  abundance  of  fruit.  Where 
Figs  are  a  specialty,  however,  better  results  may  be  obtained  by  treating  them 
in  a  compartment  of  their  own.  As  they  produce  two  crops  during  the  season, 
their  requirements  can  be  better  attended  to  apart  from  the  other  fruit,  as  I 
shall  explain  later.  I  will  add  here  merely,  that  Figs,  when  handled  properly, 
are  much  appreciated  as  a  dessert  fruit. 

Apples  for  the  orchardhouse  offer  a  great  number  of  varieties  that  can  be 
depended  upon  for  good  crops  year  after  year.  Some  years  ago  I  had  many 
varieties  under  my  charge,  that  were  admired  for  the  perfect  shape  of  their 
lar-c  fruit.     Apples  grown  under  glass  are  an  imposing  sight,  and  the  little  trees 


FRUIT  ADAPTED  FOR  ORCHARDHOUSE  WORK 


loaded  down  with  their  massive  fruit  are  sure  to  attract  attention.  But,  as  I 
have  said,  the  outdoor  conditions  here  are  so  favorable  for  the  perfect  develop- 
ment of  this  fruit  that  I  can  only  look  upon  the  orchardhouse  product  as  more 
of  a  curiosity  than  anything  else. 

While  the  Apple  responds  excellently  to  this  confined  treatment,  still  the 
dessert  or  table  varieties  should  be  cultivated  chiefly.  But  we  cannot  pass  by 
such  noble  specimens  as  Gascoyne  Scarlet,  Peasgood's  Nonsuch,  Lady  Henniker 
or  Gloria  Mundi.  These  have  stood  out  prominently^  for  many  years,  especially 
in  exhibits  of  orchardhouse  fruit.  They  will  outclass  the  open-air  fruit  for  high 
color,  size  and  finish,  particularly  if  they  can  be  ripened  up  in  a  cool,  airy  house, 
or  be  placed  outside,  with  the  treatment  recommended  for  the  Plum;  this  will 
intensify  their  color  after  they  are  fully  grown. 

I  have  passed  in  review  the  different  kinds  of  fruit,  not  with  the  view  to 
finding  fault  with  any,  but  for  the  purpose  of  indicating  those  that  are  the  most 
reliable,  together  with  the  weak  points  that  I  have  noted  during  my  many  years 
of  handling  them.     I  now  leave  the  grower  to  choose  for  himself. 

The  following  lists  are  condensed,  for  I  have  left  out  many  that  might  also 
be  grown  in  the  orchardhouse.  Those  that  I  give,  however,  will  be  found  suf- 
ficient ior  all  practical  purposes  and  will  not  confuse  with  a  multiplicity  of 
names.     The  different  kinds  follow  about  in   the  order  of  their  ripening. 


Duchess  of  Cornwall 

Duke  of  ^'ork 

Early  Rivers 

Peregrine 

Dr.  Hogg 

Alexandria  Noblesse 

Goshawk 

Exquisite 

Princess  of  Wales 

Thomas  Rivers 
*Mountain  Rose 
♦Foster 

♦Early  Crawford 
♦Late  Crawford 


Nectarines 
Early  Rivers 
Advance 
Lord  Napier 
EIruge 

Stanwick  EIruge 
Byron 
Chaucer 
Newton 
Spencer 
Victoria 


Pears 

Bartlett 

Souv.  de  Congress 
Madame  Treyve 
Beurre  Hardy 

•American  Varieties 


Fondante  d'  Automne 

Louise  Bonne  de  Jersey 

Gansel  Bergamot 

Conseiller  de  la  Cour 

Conference 

Magnet 

Pitmaston  Duchess 

Doyenne  du  Comice 

Durondeau 

Princess 

Beurre  Diel 


Plums 
The  Czar 

Early  Transparent  Gage 
Oullin's  Golden  Gage 
.\  Lai  lard 

Denniston  Superb 
McLaughlin's  Gage 
Green  Gage 
Belgian  Purple 
Bryanston  Gage 
Transparent  Gage 
Late  Transparent  Gage 
Golden  Transparent 
Reine  Claude  de  Bavay 
Grand  Duke 


Cherries 
May  Duke 
Early  Rivers 
Frogmore  Bigarreau 
Reine  Hortense 
Emperor  Francis 
Napoleon  Bigarreau 


Bourjassotte  Grise 
Brown  Turkey 
Black  Marseilles 
Early  Violet 
Negro  Largo 
Violet  Sepor 

Apricots 

Large  Early 

Royal 

Moore  Park 

Peach 

Apples 
♦Mr.  Gladstone 
♦Beauty  of  Bath 
♦Lady  Sudeley 
♦Red  Astrachan 
♦William's  Favorite 
♦Benoni 

tThomas  Rivers 
tYorkshire  Beauty 
♦Mother 
♦Washington 
♦Ribston  Pippin 
fPeasgood's  Nonsuch 
♦Cox's  Orange  Pippin 
♦King  of  the  Pippins 
ilGascoyne  Scarlet 
♦Melon  Apple 
♦.NLinnington's  Pearmain 
♦King  of  Tompkins  Co. 


"For  the  table 

fFor  the  kitchen 

I!  For  kitchen  or  table 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


CHAPTER    XXV 


FIG  CULTURE  IN   A  SEPARATE  HOUSE 

Planting  and  General  Treatment— Preparations  for  the  Second  Crop — 
Feeding— Gathering  the  Fruit— Pruning  and  Training- 
Varieties  Best  Suited  for  Forcing 

THE  Fig  tree  Is  an  interv^sting  tree  to  grow  under  glass.  \\  hilc  it  may  be 
grown  witli  fair  success  in  the  orchardhouse  among  otlier  liuit,  it  will 
thrive  much  better  in  a  house  by  itself,  or,  properly  speaking,  in  a  fighouse. 
The  origin  of  the  Fig,  like  that  of  many  other  plants,  is  obscure,  but  we  do  know 
that  it  was  cultivated  in  very  ancient  times.  It  is  probably  one  of  the  very 
oldest  cultivated  fruit  trees  that  we  have.  Ancient  though  it  be,  the  luscious 
fruit  is  still  a  favorite  with  many,  both  fresh  and  dried. 

There  is  something  majestic  about  the  Fig  tree,  which  is  entirely  difTerent 
from  any  other  fruit  tree.  The  interesting  make-up  of  both  wood  and  foliage 
is  apparent  at  once;  also  its  difTerent  mode  of  fruit-bearing.  Both  the  wood  and 
foliage  are  highly  ornamental  in  themselves;  but  they  are  as  nothing  compared 
with  the  luscious,  ripe  fruit  that  follows,  not  in  one  crop  but  in  two,  with  at  times 
even  a  third  crop  in  the  same  season.  There  is  no  other  tree  that  can  compare 
with   it  in   fruitfulness. 

California  realized  the  possibilities  of  the  Fig  tree  many  years  ago,  and  with 
an  ideal  climate  for  its  successful  culture,  there  are  now  thousands  of  acres  under 
cultivation  there,  the  yield  from  which  must  be  enormous. 

One  thing  to  be  said  in  favor  of  Fig  culture  under  glass  is,  that  the  tree  is 
comparatively  free  from  fungous  diseases  and  from  insects,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  mealy  bug,  which  will  thrive  wonderfully  if  once  allowed  a  foothold; 
for  the  fighouse  should  be  maintained  in  a  fairly  moist,  humid  atmosphere 
while  developing  its  crop,  and  this  favors  the  rapid  spread  of  the  bug. 

The  Fig  is  easy  to  propagate.  There  are  different  methods  of  producing 
young  stock,  namely,  by  seed,  cuttings,  layers  and  suckers.  Seed,  however, 
is  not  ofcen  resorted  to,  unless  it  be  with  a  view  to  improving  or  increasing 
certain  kinds  that  are  found  to  succeed  best.  The  best  way  to  raise  seedling 
Figs  is  to  select  the  finest  fruits,  allow  them  to  get  thoroughly  ripe,  and  then 
separate  the  pulp  from  the  seed.  When  dried  out  it  may  be  sown  at  once,  or 
held  until  about  January  and  sown  in  litat,  growing  the  seedlings  along  without 
a  check. 


FIG  CULTURE  ,59 

Figs  will  make  a  rapid  growth  either  from  seed  or  cuttings.  Cuttings  are 
selected  from  ripened  wood  of  the  previous  year's  growth,  short-jointed  wood 
being  preferable.  The  cuttings  may  be  made  in  the  Fall,  heeled  into  soil  in  a 
cool  house  for  about  a  month,  when  they  may  be  brought  into  heat.  A  propa- 
gating house  is  all  right,  where  the  bottom  heat  is  stronger  than  the  top;  a  place 
suitable  for  rooting  Roses  will  answer  for  Figs.  While  the  Fig  tree  has  a  very 
strong  constitution,  its  wood  is  comparatively  soft,  and  one  might  think  that 
its  make-up  indicated  a  short  duration.  But  such  is  not  the  case.  The  Fig 
may  be  counted  upon  to  last  for  many  years,  for  there  is  no  insect  life  to  bother 
either  foliage  or  roots.  Imperfect  drainage  probably  affects  the  health  and  vigor 
of  the  tree  more  than  anything  else.  While  it  loves  an  abundance  of  moisture 
during  its  growing  season,  yet  perfect  drainage  is  absolutely  necessary.  Two 
things  should  be  borne  in  mind  which  are  of  importance  in  preparing  a  border 
for  Figs,  namely,  perfect  drainage  and  confining  the  roots  to  a  limited  space. 
If  they  are  allowed  to  ramble  at  will,  the  trees  will  make  an  over-abundance  of 
wood,  with  a  poor  showing  of  fruit. 

The  Fig  has  many  peculiarities,  all  of  which  are  interesting.  Its  mode  of 
bearmg  fruit  puts  it  in  a  class  by  itself,  as  it  is  different  from  that  of  any  other 
fruit  tree  I  know.  It  has  been  thought  that  the  Fig  tree  bears  fruit  without 
first  producing  any  blossoms;  but  this  assumption  is  incorrect.  The  blossoms 
are  there,  but  they  are  invisible,  or  rather,  inside  of  a  fleshy  receptacle,  out  of 
which  the  fig  is  formed.  These  blossoms  may  be  considered  \ery  fertile,  to 
judge  from  the  quantities  of  seed  produced  by  a  single  fruit. 

The  Fig  will  grow  luxuriantly  in  almost  any  style  of  house  with  an  abundance 
of  light  and  sun.  No  very  large  structure  is  required,  as  a  rule,  to  supply  the 
needs  of  a  private  establishment.  I  have  seen  excellent  results  obtained  from 
an  even  span,  a  three-quarter  span  or  a  leanto.  It  is  immaterial  which  of  these 
IS  used,  but  whate\er  kind  is  selected  for  the  fighouse,  it  must  ha\'c  lull  expo- 
sure to  the  sun.  The  tree  may  be  trained  into  any  desired  shape  suitable  to 
the  structure,  but  it  must  have  liberal  headroom,  for  the  simple  reason  that 
Figs  do  not  take  kindly  to  severe  pruning;  which  causes  rankness  of  growth 
and  should  not  be  encouraged.  The  best  time  for  thinning  or  regulating  the 
branches  is  when  they  are  making  their  growth,  and  this  can  be  accomplished 
by  disbudding  and  pinching  the  young  wood,  as  I  will  explain  later. 

While  Figs  will  grow  and  flourish  in  a  tropical  climate,  yet  a  house  intended 
for  their  culture  would  not  be  perfect  without  an  abundance  of  ventilation  both 
top  and  bottom,  though  the  bottom  ventilation  will  not  be  used  until  the  crop  is 
ripening,  when  a  crack  of  bottom  air  is  of  decided  benefit.  When  the  last 
crop  of  fruit  is  gathered  toward  the  Fall,  the  bottom  vents  will  do  their  work 
in  firming  or  ripening  up  the  wood.  Though  the  wood  is  soft  in  nature,  yet 
the  bottom  air  treatment  in  the  Fall,  and  away  into  the  Winter,  even  to  ten 
degrees  of  frost,  will  greatly  benefit  the  tree. 

In  preparing  the  border,  the  first  essential  is  good  drainage.  It  is  also  well 
to  confine  the  roots  strictly  to  a  given  space,  for  if  they  are  given  any  outlet, 
there  is  no  telling  how  far  they  will  travel.  A  border  six  feet  wide  with  soil 
two  and  one-half  feet  deep  will  support  trees  for  many  years,  with  system  in 


,6o  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

feeding,  giving  top  dressing,  etc.  The  Fig  is  not  particular  as  to  soil,  and  this 
certainly  need  not  be  made  too  rich,  otherwise  too  rank  a  growth  will  be  sure  to 
follow.  A  good  loam,  similar  to  that  recommended  for  Peaches  and  Nectarines, 
is  about  right,  and  an  added  sprinkling  of  coarse  bone  is  ail  that  will  be  required. 
As  the  trees  get  thoroughly  established  and  the  border  is  fdled  with  roots,  sur- 
face feeding  can  be  applied  to  good  advantage,  according  to  conditions.  If 
the  trees  have  a  tendency  to  rankness,  less  feeding  will  be  required.  From  my 
experience  I  cannot  lay  down  any  cut  and  dried  rules.  Feed  according  to  the 
nature  or  the  requirements  of  your  trees.  We  all  know  that  the  same  quantity 
of  fruit  cannot  be  obtained  from  an  over-rank  growth  as  from  medium,  short- 
jointed  wood.  The  feeding  recommended  for  Peaches  and  Nectarines  will 
also  do  for  Figs.  But  I  repeat  that  good  drainage  is  one  of  the  chief  factors 
of  success.  With  systematic  feeding,  I  have  seen  wonderful  crops  of  Figs  taken 
from  houses  where  the  roots  were  confined  to  a  comparatively  small  amount  of 
soil. 

If  a  fighouse  is  started  the  ist  of  February  at  a  temperatureof  50°  at  night  and 
60°  to  65°  by  day,  gradually  increasing  to  65°  by  night  and  75°  by  day  or  80°  with 
sun  heat,  ripe  Figs  may  be  had  about  the  first  or  second  week  in  May.  When 
the  requirements  of  this  fruit  are  once  fully  understood,  it  is  not  difficult  to 
raise  successful  crops  year  after  year,  for  the  trees  are  of  a  hardy,  robust  consti- 
tution. Still  a  crop  may  be  seriously  damaged  within  a  short  time.  For 
instance,  just  as  the  fruit  begins  to  ripen,  a  dry,  bracing  atmosphere  must  be 
maintained,  with  no  spraying  of  the  trees  while  the  crop  is  in  its  ripening  stage. 
The  skin  of  the  fruit  is  so  tender,  that  too  much  moisture  would  produce  mould, 
which  is  the  starting  point  of  decay.  A  drier  atmosphere  is  also  necessary  in 
order  to  get  the  desired  rich,  luscious  flavor. 

When  the  first  crop  is  gathered  spraying  and  moisture  can  be  more  freely 
given,  until  the  second  crop  is  ripe.  It  is  easy  to  see  from  this  mode  of  treat- 
ment that  it  is  of  decided  advantage  to  have  Figs  in  a  house  where  they  can  be 
treated  according  to  their  own  peculiar  requirements.  Simple  though  these 
be,  it  would  be  impossible  to  satisfy  •'.hem  in  a  mixed  house. 

PLANTING     AND     GENERAL    TREATMENT 

The  Fig  tree  will  begin  to  bear  while  it  is  still  quite  small,  or  the  second 
season  after  planting.  The  greatest  obstacle  to  success  is  probably  the 
crowding  of  too  many  trees  into  a  house.  Young  trees  may  be  planted  six 
or  seven  feet  apart;  this  distance  will  do  for  three  or  four  years,  or  until 
they  begin  to  crowd  into  each  other.  It  is  then  better  to  remove  every 
other  tree  rather  than  to  resort  to  much  pruning.  It  is  well  to  have  this  exi- 
gency in  mind  in  first  planting  a  house,  and  to  arrange  that  the  peimanent 
trees  shall  be  about  fifteen  feet  apart.  This  will  allow  the  proper  expansion 
of  the  branches  on  each  side  of  the  main  stem.  After  spacing  the  permanent 
trees,  the  supplementary  ones  may  be  set  in  between,  with  a  view  to  removing 
them  when  the  space  is  needed. 

Young  stock  for  planting  is  as  a  rule  pot  grown.     Therefore  all  roots  must 


FIG  CULTURE 


Fig  Bolrjassotte  Grise 

A  Fig  branch  in  fruit,  showing  two  crops.     The  two  large  figs  are  just  ripe,  while  the  three 

smaller  ones  have  not  long  been  formed 


i62  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

be  disentangled  and  straightened,  or  spread  over  the  border.  They  should 
not  be  set  out  just  as  they  come  from  the  pot,  for  freer  root  action  will  be  ob- 
tained by  relieving  the  roots  around  the  ball,  and  spreading  them  about  as 
much  as  possible.  This  little  preliminary  woik  will  promote  a  more  satis- 
factory growth  in  every  respect.  It  is  necessary  at  times  to  root-prune  the 
Fig  tree,  after  it  has  been  in  the  soil  for  two  or  three  years  and  makes  an  extra 
strong  growth,  with  a  poor  showing  of  fruit. 

Root-pruning  is  a  simple  operation.  Dig  a  trench  around  the  tree  about 
two  feet  from  tiie  butt;  this  will  encourage  more  fibrous  roots,  and  these  roots 
again  will  encourage  growth  that  will  produce  fruiting  wood.  The  long,  rank, 
coarse  roots  are  anything  but  desirable,  as  they  produce  only  rank,  fruitless 
wood. 

The  nature  and  make-up  of  the  Fig  are  entirely  different  from  those  of 
any  other  fruit.  While  its  cultivation  is  simple  to  the  man  who  understands 
its  needs,  my  object  here  is  to  give  such  instructions  that  the  amateur  grower 
who  follows  them  can  make  a  success  of  Fig  culture.  The  key  to  success  is 
interest,  and  when  that  has  been  awakened  it  is  soon  followed  by  enthusiasm 
for  the  work,  which  will  abide  for  all  time. 

The  Fig  is  good  for  two  crops  at  least,  and  if  the  house  has  been  started 
on  the  first  of  January,  three  crops  may  be  gathered  during  the  season.  The 
first  crop,  however,  is  procured  from  the  previous  year's  gro\\i:h,  if  we  are  through 
forcing  by  the  end  of  September,  and  the  house  is  thrown  open  to  ripen  up  the 
wood  for  the  following  season.  Sometimes  quite  a  number  of  small  green  Figs 
appear  on  the  young  wood;  when  these  are  large  enough  to  be  detected  or  begin 
to  take  their  shape,  they  should  all  be  removed,  which  can  be  best  done  with 
the  finger  and  thumb.  If  this  green  fruit  is  allowed  to  stay  on  it  will  drop 
off,  instead  of  swelling  or  maturing,  when  the  trees  are  started  up  in  the  Spring, 
whereas  if  it  is  removed  in  the  early  Fall,  the  tree  will  have  sufficient  time  to 
exert  its  powers  in  the  seasonable  preparation  of  new  Figs  for  the  following 
year.  If  the  operation  is  undertaken  in  time,  new  Figs  will  form  before  the 
Winter  sets  in.     Sometimes  two  Figs  will  form  in  place  of  one  rubbed  off. 

PREPARATIONS     FOR     TIIE     SECOND     CROP 

Soon  after  the  heat  is  turned  on  in  the  Spring,  growth  and  the  first  crop 
will  start  at  the  same  time.  Figs  will  appear  on  the  previous  year's  wood  as 
the  new  growth  progresses;  these  should  be  pinched  in  due  time,  from  six  to 
nine  inches,  according  to  space.  This  will  check  the  flow  of  sap,  which  causes 
the  wood  to  firm  up  and  will  produce  fruit  from  the  axils  of  the  young  leaves. 
In  a  short  time  wood  growth  will  commence  again,  and  this  may  be  pinched 
again  as  recommended  for  the  second  crop.  Usually  there  are  more  young 
shoots  starting  than  are  necessary.  Any  shoots  not  needed  should  be  disbudded 
or  pinched  back  close  to  the  old  wood.  While  it  is  well  to  have  the  tree  furnished 
with  foliage,  this  should  not  be  at  the  expense  of  crowding.  Any  wood  that 
has  been  growing  during  the  Summer  in  a  crowded  condition  cannot  be  ex- 
pected  to  give  satisfactory   results  the  following  season.      Success,    moreovei. 


FIG  CULTURE  .  163 

is  more  certain  if  all  tiie  shoots  can  be  l;ept  in  equal  vigor.  Any  siioots  tliat 
appear  to  be  advancing  unduly  or  taking  the  lead  should  be  pinched.  This  will 
be  a  check  and  will  divert  some  of  the  sap  into  other  channels.  An  equal  dis- 
tribution of  the  sap  is  beneficial  in  various  ways;  there  will  be  a  disposition 
to  produce  fruit  that  will  be  less  liable  to  drop  off.  With  any  irregularity  of 
growth  the  flow  of  sap  also  will  be  irregular,  and  this  is  sometimes  the  first  reason 
of  fruit  dropping  before  it  is  ripe.  Equalization  of  the  sap  is  one  of  the  secrets 
of  successful  Fig  culture.  But  with  care  and  close  attention  to  details  this 
may  be  accomplished  without  much  difficulty. 

The  Fig  leaf  will  absorb  large  quantities  of  moisture,  and  a  moist,  humid 
atmosphere  is  therefore  good  for  the  tree,  except  when  the  fruit  is  ripening, 
at  which  time  a  fairly  dry,  bracing  atmosphere  must  be  maintained. 

By  arranging  the  Summer's  gro\rth,  disbudding  all  surplus  shoots,  that 
are  not  required  to  furnish  the  tree,  the  Winter's  pruning  will  not  be  a  great 
work.  As  it  is  the  nature  of  the  Fig  tree  to  produce  rank  growth,  severe  Winter 
pruning  would  only  increase  or  encourage  the  trouble.  Better  success  may 
undoubtedly  be  had  with  good  headroom  and  space  for  the  trees  to  expand. 
While  I  advocate  as  little  pruning  as  possible,  still  it  would  be  useless  to  tie 
in  the  wood  to  an  extreme  degree;  the  foliage  is  very  massive  and  requires  space 
for  perfect  development. 

FEEDING 

When  first  making  a  border,  very  rich  compost  would  be  a  serious  mistake, 
as  I  have  already  said.  When  the  roots  are  strictly  confined  to  a  given  space — 
as  they  should  be  for  best  results — it  will  be  found  after  a  few  years  that  the 
border  is  matted  with  working  roots,  if  everything  has  progressed  favorably. 
Then  a  top  dressing  will  be  of  great  assistance  in  startmg  them  on  their  season's 
work.  This  dressing  may  be  in  the  proportion  of  two  of  soil  to  one  of  manure. 
Bone  meal,  wood  ashes  and  Thomson's  manure  are  all  good  for  bringing  the 
crop  to  its  highest  state  of  perfection.  Bone  is  best  applied  with  the  top  dressing. 
A  light  application  of  Thomson's  manure  or  wood  ashes  may  be  made  whenever 
the  border  requires  water.  But  in  using  any  high  grade  fertilizer,  like  Thom- 
son's manure,  it  is  always  best  to  water  the  border  first;  then  add  the  fertilizer, 
mixed  with  six  or  seven  parts  of  soil,  and  always  give  a  light  watering  after 
applying  the  fertilizer.  Directions  always  go  with  the  bag.  Two  or  three 
applications  of  this  manure  may  be  given  during  the  season  if  the  trees  are 
making  normal  growth  and  are  producing  liberal  crops.  I  have  tested  many 
different  grades  of  fertilizers  and  have  obtained  the  best  results  by  the  use  of 
Thomson's  vine  and  plant  manure.  Hence  the  strong  recommendation.  It 
is  especially  good  for  all  kinds  of  indoor  fruit.  It  has  stood  the  test  of  many 
years,  always  with  gratifying  results  when  properly  handled.  We  are  living 
in  a  progressive  age  and  during  recent  years  the  manufacturers  of  fertilizers 
have  given  their  best  thoughts  to  the  question  of  turning  out  high  grade, 
complete  manures,  knowing  full  well  that  the  grower  is  ever  on  the  alert  for  an 
article  that  will  help  him  to  bring  about  best  results.  High  grade  manures  are 
naturally  more   expensive,   or    seem   to    be,    than  low    grade  ones,  but  if  the 


i6»  FRUITS   AND   \-EGETABLES   UNDER   GI_\SS 

groww  considers  the  results  that  may  be  obtained  by  use  of  the  best  material, 
and  that  a  smaller  quantir>  is  required  for  building  up  both  foliage  and  fruit 
tc  the  h'-^err  rr^Te  of  perfection,  he  will  always  select  the  high  grade  article,  at 
least  -  ' 

E  >o  a  wfwjdeiful  jJant  in^^go^at<H^.     If  a  plant  is  a  bit  off 

coior  -'. ^..        -c  the  roots  are  in  an  actne,  healthy  condition,  one  watering 

wTtii  Bon  .\rt>or  given  as  directed  will  produce  good  results  within  a  few  da>^ 
brrr-iT-r  b;ck  thst  ^eeo.  sreen  bjrtre  s'^  desirabJe.  It  also  is  a  compJete,  high 
r  -         --  "       ■  ";    r.  througfaout  thc  countrj", 

— er  growers.     The  manu- 

;^^:_  ...;     -  --.-;  .--:^  .„^  :.^>.   >_  . :— :.:i.--ia]s  from  all  parts  of  the 

country  as  to  its  standard  qualities,  and  the  t>enettts  derived  therefrom. 

Qav's  f«tilizer  is  one  of  the  <Jd,  high  grade  manures,  and  as  popular  as 
ever.  During  the  last  twenr>-  years  it  has  made  many  friends  throughout 
this  country.  -\  more  recent  introduction  that  has  gained  p>opularrty  is  Ich- 
tbemic  guano;  it  is  admirably  adapted  for  all  indoor  fruit.  A  good  indication 
of  its  efficacy  is  grien  by  the  plant  itself:  wii«i  a  top  dressing  is  applied, 
the  roct5  i^TI  c-^rre  tt^  2r  a^frjfhingly  short  time,  wiiicfa  shows  clearly  that  the 
ingrei  -  are  decidedly  agreeable  to  fruit  trees. 

T  5  of  fertilizers  that  are  excellent  for  different 

crc^is.     ...  —  .... --—izeis  put  en  the  market  today  the  ingredients 

,  and  the  analyses  show  the  percentage  of  their  coostituent  elements. 


GATHERING    THE     FRLTT 

Ir.  I'r.t  z-^'.- -z'- z     :  :  ~  -     -  -  somewhat  from  all  other 

fniit,  :r  :-i:  :':  t  r"^      r    -  ^^ong  it  to  remain  on  the 

tree  urti.  :z  li  fcid  ripe.     :  _  :   shrrveling  up.     In  order 

to  bring  it  to  this  state,  a  decidediy  dry  atroo^bere  must  be  maintained  through- 
out the  ripenii^  prooess«  or  decay  will  follow.  Neither  can  the  rich,  luscious 
flavor  be  obtained  otherwise.  K  Fig  picked  when  under-ripe  is  absolutely 
offensrre. 

-RU"NING    ANT)    TRAINING 

.\.::  _zr  .  c  r  ^  .ret  must  not  be  subjected  to  severe  pruning,  yet  a  cer- 
tain amount  of  pruning  cannot  be  avoided.  We  may  have  used  good  judgment 
in  regard  to  pinching  and  disbudding  through  the  season  of  growth,  but  when 
the  time  comes  around  for  deaning  and  t>-ing  up  preparatorv'  to  anotho"  start, 
the  chances  are  that  there  is  more  wood  than  is  neoessarv'  to  furnish  the  tree, 

_  .    -  .-.:;  ^j^jj  than  to  crowd  in  an  unnecessan.-  lot.     Some- 

"  a  branch  dean  away,  so  as  to  give  more  room  to  the 
rne  in  mind  that  the  last  growth  which  has  been  made 
-i  I— t  ^^^-~~  -^t  ccptr.c  upon  for  o«r  firet  crop  in  the  Spring. 

The  Fig  tree  may  be  trained  either  horizontally  or  in  fan  shape,  as  best 
suits  the  grower.     I  recommeixi  the  fz-  ■'■-  --■''-z:    but  the  man  in  charge 


FIG  CLXTURE  165 

of  the  operation  should  he  the  best  judge.  The  aim  in  tnis  operation  is  to  encour- 
age an  even  distribution  of  growth  all  over  the  tree.  For  instance,  if,  in  cutting 
away  a  shoot  or  branch  a  growth  is  needed  at  the  base  of  this  shoot,  prune 
to  one  or  two  eyes;  then  in  time  those  eyes  will  start  into  growth  and  furnish 
the  necessary  shoots.  But  if  no  future  shoot  is  required,  it  is  best  to  cut  back 
to  the  main  wood,  leaving  no  eyes  for  a  further  growth.  It  is  usually  ad^Tsable 
to  encourage  back  growths,  with  a  \-iew  to  ha\-ing  an  even  distribution  of  foliage, 
tor  this  means  an  even  distribution  of  sap,  which  is  a  very  important  factor  in 
the  successful  cultivation  of  Figs.  It  is  well  for  the  beginner  to  bear  this  in 
mind  whenever  training  a  Fig  tree.  Tr>-  to  cultrvate  or  train  an  evenlv-bal- 
anced  tree.  Pinch  Ejack  any  shoots  that  are  taking  the  lead  noticeably,  for  bv 
doing  this  the  sap  will  he  more  fully  equalized  throughout  the  tree. 

Attention  to  these  small  details  at  the  beginning  of  training  will  make  the 
subsequent  operations  simpler.  The  same  applies  to  the  tj-ing  in  of  the  young 
grow-th.  \\  hen  tying  the  shoots  before  starting,  allowance  should  be  made  fw 
expansion.  The  wood  will  grow  considerably,  even  in  one  season.  I  have  known 
serious  damage  to  be  done  through  securing  the  wood  too  tigfatly  to  the  trellis, 
or  allowing  the  string  to  cut  into  the  wood  as  it  expands. 

VARIETIES     BEST    SUITED     FOR     PORONG 

There  is  a  long  list  of  varieties  that  could  be  recommended.  I  have  selected 
what  I  consider  the  best  and  most  reliable  for  forcing  purposes.  My  list  wiD 
be  found  sufficient  for  all  practical  purposes. 

Bourrassotte  Grise  Pingo  de  Mef 

Brown  Turkey  Ronde  Molette  Hatrve 

Brown  Ischia  Molette  Sepor 

Early  Molet  White  Marseilles 

Nesro  Larso  Black  Marseilles 


Fig  Nfcro  Lussgo 
torcing  Wst  for  toiny  years. . 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


CHAPTER   XXVI 

MELON-GROWING  IN  THE  HOUSE 
Soil— Raising  Young  Plants 

RIPE  Melons  are  eagerly  sought  as  a  table  luxury,  whether  grown  on  the 
farm  or  under  glass,  probably  because  there  is  no  fruit  more  healthful 
to  the  human  system.  For  two  or  three  months  of  the  year  the  markets 
are  usually  well  supplied  with  the  outdoor  Melons.  The  earliest  come  from  the 
South,  while  the  Northern-grown  fruit  finishes  up  the  season.  Our  Southern 
States  have  an  ideal  climate  for  the  production  of  high-flavored  Melons;  Colo- 
rado also  sends  her  full  quota  of  Rocky  Fords,  which  are  grown  better  there  than 
in  any  other  State.  A  Rocky  Ford  grown  in  New  York  or  New  Jersey  cannot 
compare  with  the  Colorado  product.  This  shows  plainlj-  enough  that  soil 
combined  with  climatic  conditions  has  a  wonderful  eff'ect  on  the  make-up  of 
the  different  fruits,  in  regard  to  quality,  richness  of  flavor,  etc.  It  is,  however, 
not  my  intention  to  discuss  outdoor  Melon  culture  here,  more  important  though 
it  may  be  than  my  subject  proper,  the  cultivation  of  Melons  under  glass. 

In  producing  Melons  artificially,  there  is  the  satisfaction  of  having  them 
out  of  season,  or  when  there  are  none  in  the  market,  at  which  time  they  will  be 
all  the  more  appreciated.  In  a  private  establishment  with  a  house  suitable 
for  the  purpose,  ripe  Melons  may  be  had  for  Christmas.  We  have  here  an  advan- 
tage over  our  brother  gardeners  across  the  Atlantic,  in  getting  much  more  sun- 
light for  our  fruit,  for  Melons  will  not  thrive  without  a  fair  amount  of  sun. 
They  have  been  cultivated  for  centuries  both  in  the  open  and  under  glass.  We 
learn  from  early  history  that  the  Melon  flourished  and  was  abundant  in  Persia, 
growing  on  the  plains  of  Ispahan,  and  it  is  said  to  have  been  of  excellent  finish 
and  flavor — so  much  so  as  to  attract  the  attention  of  the  missionaries,  who  then 
brought  the  seed  to  Rome.  It  was  introduced  into  France  about  1495,  and 
brought  later  to  England.  But  here  it  was  probably  not  grown  with  much 
success  until  glass  houses  came  into  vogue.  From  that  time  on,  howevei,  it 
has  been  improved  to  a  wonderful  degree,  by  careful  selection  and  systematic 
cross-fertilization.  Within  my  time  even  the  varieties  that  were  leaders  some 
thirty  years  ago,  such  as  Colston  Basset,  Victory  of  Bath,  Gilbert's  Green  Flesh, 
Beechwood,  Bromham  Hall,  and  a  few  others,  equally  well  known  then,  have 
passed.  As  with  most  other  fruit,  here  also  the  hybridizers  have  been  steadily 
improving  upon  the  varieties  year  after  year. 


MELON-GROWING  IN  THE  HOUSE  167 

It  is  not  difTicult  to  obtain  different  forms  of  Melons.  In  a  mixed  house 
of  fruit,  or  where  there  are  three  or  four  varieties  together,  and  especially  in  the 
Summer  when  the  bees  are  busy,  there  will  certainly  be  a  haphazard  mixture. 
But  where  improvements  of  any  pretension  have  been  made,  cross-fertilization 
has  been  carried  out  systematically  and  records  have  been  kept  of  the 
parentage.  The  one  firm  which  has  perhaps  done  the  most  valuable  work 
in  sending  out  new  varieties  remarkable  for  size,  vigor  and  rich  flavor,  is 
that  of  Sutton  and  Sons,  of  Reading,  England.  It  has  been  engaged  in 
this  work  for  many  years  and  its  introductions  are  widely  known,  in  this 
country  also,  and  appreciated  both  for  their  strong,  robust  constitution  and 
free  setting  qualities. 

It  is  not  uncommon  for  a  promising  seedling  to  spring  up  here  and  tiiere 
from  time  to  time.  Some  of  these  new  varieties  may  prove  successful,  but  il 
is  well  to  give  any  seedling  that  is  put  on  the  market  a  preliminary  trial,  and  if 
it  stands  the  test  and  is  an  impro\'ement  on  the  varieties  already  on  hand,  the 
grower  can  only  gain  by  including  it  in  his  assortment.  Moreover,  it  is  inter- 
esting to  give  anything  new  a  test,  even  if  it  is  to  be  cast  aside  when  it  does  not 
fulfill  expectations.  All  growers  will  agree  with  me  when  I  say,  that  a  new  fruit 
is  watched  with  a  careful  eye  from  the  time  that  the  seed  is  put  into  the  earth 
until  the  period  of  maturity. 

Melons  will  thrive  in  different  kinds  of  houses.  As  a  Summer  crop  thej- 
are  not  very  exacting,  providing  there  is  plenty  of  sunlight.  It  takes  less  skill 
to  produce  a  satisfactory  crop  during  the  long  days  of  the  Summer,  than  it  does 
toward  the  Fall  and  in  the  Winter  months.  Melons  are  one  of  the  most 
exacting  of  crops  during  the  short  days,  requiring  a  fairly  steady  temperature 
both  night  and  day.  A  check  of  any  kind  means  ruination  to  the  crop.  This, 
in  fact,  holds  good  Winter  and  Summer,  but  as  the  latter  crop  is  grown  under 
more  natural  conditions,  with  no  artificial  heat,  and  only  the  sun's  rays  on  the 
glass,  it  naturally  is  not  so  liable  to  get  chilled. 

Indoor  Melons  are  becoming  very  popular  among  the  wealthy,  and  the  glass 
area  devoted  to  their  culture  is  much  greater  now  than  it  was  even  a  few  years 
ago.  Where  this  fruit  is  grown  to  the  highest  state  of  perfection  the  demand 
for  it  is  always  keen,  but  if  it  is  of  poor  finish  it  may  go  begging.  So  it  rests 
in  the  last  instance  with  us  growers  whether  the  Melon  is  in  demand  or  not. 
We  often  find  fault  with  a  certain  variety  for  its  lack  of  flavor,  when  it  very 
probably  is  due  to  our  own  bad  management.  I  know  this  from  practical  expe- 
rience. Yet  some  varieties  unquestionably  have  a  much  richer  flavor  than 
others,  and  it  may  also  happen  that  certain  kinds  can  be  grown  successfully  in 
one  locality,  while  they  may  be  a  failure  in  another.  We  very  often  find,  in 
going  around  among  the  different  growers,  that  each  will  favor  different  varieties. 
Soil  and  location  are  no  doubt  responsible  to  a  certain  extent  for  such  prefer- 
ences. The  same  also  holds  good  for  outdoor  Melons.  The  best  thing  to  do, 
in  making  a  selection,  is  to  test  a  number  of  varieties,  and  then  choose  the  most 
satisfactory  doers  on  our  own  particular  ground. 

Three  or  four  years  ago,  when  Sutton's  Emerald  Gem  was  sent  out,  I  gave 
it  a  trial.     With  me  it  would  grow  from  eight  to  ten  pounds  per  fruit,  fine  look- 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


MELON-GROWING  IN  THE  HOUSE  169 

ing  specimens,  but  unfortunately  with  a  decidedly  watery  flavor,  so  that  I  had 
to  discard  it. 

Melons  may  be  grown  successfully  in  almost  any  style  of  house,  as  I  have 
said,  for  a  few  months  in  the  Summer;  but  when  they  are  to  be  grown  both 
Winter  and  Summer,  it  is  well  to  secure  the  best  house  for  the  purpose.  It  is 
not  necessary  to  have  a  very  large  house,  but  a  span  roof  is  the  best.  I  have 
seen  good  fruit  produced  in  an  even  span  running  east  and  west,  but  an  even 
span  running  north  and  south  is  much  better,  as  the  vines  will  then  get  more 
even  sunlight.  A  house  about  twelve  to  fourteen  feet  wide  is  sufficient;  this 
will  give  the  vines  head  room  enough,  training  them  to  trellis  up  each  side.  A 
comparatively  small  house  will  be  found  advantageous  in  cold  weather.  A 
veiy  high  house  would  not  be  advisable,  as  we  have  to  maintain  a  minimum 
temperature  of  not  less  than  70°.  Occasionally,  a  visitor  not  acquainted  with 
the  forcing  process,  on  being  taken  through  a  melonhouse,  has  expressed  sur- 
prise to  see  the  vines  trained  on  trellises  about  fifteen  inches  from  the  glass, 
which  seems  contrary  to  their  natural  trailing  habits.  But  in  growing  fruit 
artificially,  methods  must  be  adopted  that  will  lead  to  success.  As  Melon  fo- 
liage evaporates  considerable  moisture,  whether  grown  in  the  open  air  or  under 
glass,  the  forcing  house  will  be  charged  with  considerable  humidity,  and  the 
foliage  will  therefore  reabsorb  more.  If  the  vines  were  allowed  to  trail  inside, 
as  they  do  in  their  natural  state  outside,  they  would  decay  before  the  crop  was 
half  ripe. 


Good  soil  is  one  of  the  chief  requirements  for  success  in  Melon  culture  under 
glass.  With  poor  soil  success  is  very  uncertain.  It  is  inviting  failure  to  attempt 
to  grow  this  crop  through  the  Winter  with  unsatisfactory  soil.  In  the  first  place, 
the  compost  should  be  such  as  to  allow  the  roots  to  penetrate  through  the  soil. 
Keep  lively  root  action  from  the  time  the  plants  are  set  in  the  bench  until  matur- 
ity. It  is  easy  to  recommend  a  certain  grade  of  soil,  but  it  may  be  very  difficult 
to  obtain  the  same  in  certain  localities.  A  desirable  compost  is  a  fairly  heavy 
loam  from  old  pasture  land,  which  is  friable  rather  than  adhesive.  This  sod 
land  may  be  plowed  about  three  inches  deep  and  the  sod  staked  in  a  pile  a  month 
before  it  is  needed;  it  will  then  be  in  good  condition  for  use.  If  manure  is  added, 
it  should  be  done  sparingly.  It  is  not  a  good  plan  to  use  much  farmyard  manure 
with  Melon  soil,  though  a  little  may  be  added  that  is  thoroughly  decayed.  I 
have  also  found  leaf  soil  excellent  to  mix  in  with  the  compost,  particularly  when 
the  soil  is  a  bit  heavy.  The  compost  should  be  such  as  to  produce  a  healthy 
root  action.  \\'hile  there  should  be  a  fairly  healthy,  vigorous  growth,  nothing 
is  gained  by  vines  that  are  too  rank.  A  richer  top  dressing  may  be  applied  after 
the  fruit  is  set. 

Where  Melons  under  glass  are  grown  on  a  fairly  extensive  scale,  there 
should  be  three  compartments.  It  will  take  about  three  months  from  the  time 
the  seed  is  sown  until  the  fruit  is  ripe,  that  is,  from  Spring  until  Fall.  During 
the  Winter  it  will  take  longer  for  the  crop  to  mature.  Sometimes  four  months 
are  needed,  especially  with  much  cloudy  weather.     Considerable  time  may  be 


,70  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

saved  by  ha\-ing  young  plants  in  four-inch  or  five-inch  pots,  ready  for  planting 
in  the  house  again  when  the  other  crop  is  gathered;  i)ut  tiie  young  plants  should 
not  be  allowed  to  get  pot-bound,  or  failure  will  be  tlie  result. 

RAISING     YOUNG     PLANTS 

There  is  no  better  place  to  germinate  the  seed  than  the  Melon  house  itself. 
Use  2-inch  pots  for  the  purpose,  with  a  fair  amount  of  leaf  soil  to  encourage 
quick  root  action.  Fill  the  pots  about  three  parts  full  of  soil  and  press  moder- 
ately firm;  then  place  a  couple  of  seeds  in  each  pot  and  cover  with  one-half  inch 
of  soil.  Should  both  seeds  germinate,  pull  one  out.  If  the  pots  are  set  in  a 
close,  dark  place  the  seed  will  germinate  more  readily.  There  being  very  little 
evaporation  not  much  water  is  needed.  An  ordinary  flat  is  good  for  the  purpose; 
set  the  pots  close  together,  cover  with  glass  and  keep  dark  with  paper  or  card- 
board. If  Melon  seed  gets  too  much  water  before  germination,  part  of  it  is 
liable  to  perish. 

When  the  seedlings  show  signs  of  growth,  remove  to  full  light  near  the  glass. 
Try  to  induce  a  stocky,  healthy  growth  as  the  plant  gets  rooted.  Repot  into 
three  and  one-half-inch  pots,  with  somewhat  heavier  soil.  From  these  pots 
the  feedlings  may  be  planted  on  the  bench,  or  if  the  house  is  not  quite  ready, 
repot  into  five-inch  pots.  Success  or  failure  in  fruiting  thrifty  young  stock 
depends  very  largely  on  the  condition  of  the  plants  when  set  or  planted  in  the 
bench.  This  is  one  of  the  main  considerations  in  all  plant  life,  but  while  other 
stock  that  has  received  a  check  may  sometimes  be  brought  around  to  yield  fair 
results,  the  Melon  is  a  stubborn  plant;  if  it  has  received  a  set-back  in  any  way, 
the  progress  will  be  slow  and  the  results  very  unsatisfactory.  Therefore,  only 
vigorous,  healthy  young  plants  should  be  set  out.  I  have  planted  them  on  the 
bench  out  of  two-inch  pots,  but  I  prefer  setting  out  stronger  plants;  these  will 
quickly  start  to  root  through  the  new  soil,  and  make  rapid  progress. 


MELON-GROWING  IN  THE  HOUSE 


This  handsome  Melon  was  raised  some  tew  \eai 
flavor,  with  small  seed  ca% 


■  ,  by  me.    A  grecii-llesiied  Melon,  rich 
and  deep  lleshed 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


CHAPTER   XXVII 


MELONS    GENERAL   CULTURE 

Planting— Setting  the  Fruit    Watering— Feeding    Gathering  the 
Fruit— Insects  and  Mildew — Varieties 


A  LARGE  body  o(  soil  is  not  necessary  tor  producing  a  good  crop  of  Melons. 
It  may  also  vary  according  to  the  season.  In  the  Winter  the  roots 
siiould  be  confined  to  a  rather  small  space.  At  this  season  much 
skill,  care  and  close  watchfulness  are  required  for  satisfactory  results,  for  the 
Melon  is  most  exacting  at  this  time. 

While  ripe  Melons  may  be  had  through  the  Winter,  yet  I  do  not  deny  that 
it  is  difficult  occasionally  to  secure  the  desired  results.  Having  grown  Melons 
now  for  several  years  all  through  the  Winter,  I  have  observed  various  things 
about  them  worthy  of  mention.  When  the  plants  are  in  bloom  and  ready  for 
fertilizing,  (all  blossoms  must  be  hand-fertilized  carefully  during  the 
Winter  months,)  and  if  there  is  clear  weather  while  the  fruit  is  setting,  they  will 
set  more  freely  and  start  to  grow  better  in  every  respect.  This  also  holds  good 
during  Summer  cultivation,  although  it  is  decidedly  more  noticeable  in  the 
Winter.  Therefore  take  advantage  of  clear,  bright  weather  to  set  the  fruit. 
I  have  also  had  better  success  by  using  boxes  for  Winter,  three  and  one-half 
feet  long,  twelve  inches  wide  and  six  inches  deep,  planting  three  vines  in  each 
box  and  leaving  space  for  top  dressing.  If  the  plants  are  out  of  five-inch  pots 
place  them  at  equal  distances, then  add  enough  soil  to  form  three  mounds,  or  suffir 
cient  to  cover  the  balls,  firming  the  soil  well  around  the  roots,  and  as  the  roots 
penetrate  through  add  more  soil,  except  when  setting  the  fruit,  at  which  time 
no  feeding  or  top  dressing  should  be  done. 

There  is  yet  another  thing  to  be  said  in  favor  of  boxes.  As  Melons  must 
be  kept  near  70°  at  night,  with  80°  by  day  or  85  with  sun,  the  bench  tile  will 
at  times  get  rather  warm,  especially  in  very  cold  weather,  but  the  roots  in  the 
boxes  will  not  feel  the  extremely  dry  heat.  However  this  may  be,  I  find  the 
boxes  a  decided  improvement.  In  every  other  respect  the  treatment  is  the  same 
as  for  the  Summer.  Guard  against  too  much  moisture  around  the  neck  of  the 
plants,  especially  in  a  spell  of  dark,  cloudy  weather,  or  they  will  damp  off.  Some 
growers  call  this  condition  a  disease,  which  it  probably  is,  and  brought  on  by 


MELON-GROWING  IN  THE  HOUSE  i73 

carelessness  in  allowing  too  niucii  moisture  to  lodge  around  the  necks  of  the 
plants.  A  batch  of  plants  can  easily  be  lost  in  this  way  in  a  few  days.  When 
a  vine  shows  signs  of  damping  off,  place  some  slaked  lime  around  its  neck, 
mixed  with  some  powdered  charcoal. 

In  repotting  or  boxing  it  is  important  to  lune  the  new  soil  of  the  same 
temperature  as  that  in  which  the  plant  has  been  growing.  There  is  nothing 
worse  than  to  add  cold  soil  to  the  roots. 

A  grower  desiring  to  produce  Melons  during  the  Winter  must  be  quick 
to  seize  every  little  advantage;  above  all,  a  steady  temperature  must  be  kept 
night  and  day.  During  very  hard  firing  the  plants  will  be  benefited  by  damping 
down  a  couple  of  times  during  the  night,  if  there  is  a  night  fireman  at  hand; 
if  not,  damp  down  around  lo  p.  m.  This  will  help  the  foliage,  for  too  dry  an 
atmosphere  will  cause  it  to  dry  up. 

As  to  the  usual  method  of  planting  for  early  Spring  and  during  the  Summer 
months,  good  Melons  have  been  grown  in  six  inches  of  soil,  and  also  a  foot  deep. 
In  fact,  years  ago  soil  from  a  foot  to  eighteen  inches  deep  was  recommended. 
But  with  the  high  grade  of  manure  we  now  have  and  with  our  systematic  feeding 
it  is  not  necessary  or  advisable  to  use  such  a  heavy  bulk  of  soil.  Fresh  soil 
should  be  brought  in  for  each  crop.  The  best  dimensions  are  found  in  a  space 
two  feet  wide  and  six  or  seven  inches  deep;  this  will  hold  enough  soil  to  produce 
an  excellent  crop.  Set  the  plants  in  hills  fifteen  inches  apart  and  train  up  to 
trellis.  I  prefer  to  set  the  plants  rather  close  together,  training  only  one  main 
shoot  to  each  plant.  No  pinching  is  then  needed,  until  within  six  inches  of 
the  desired  height,  when  the  point  may  be  pinched.  This  will  cause  side  shoots 
to  come  away  from  every  leaf  joint.  These  lateral  growths  are  what  we  depend 
on  for  our  crop.  Fruit  usually  shows  at  the  first  leaf,  then  the  shoot  should 
be  pinched  again  one  leal  beyond  the  first. 

SETTING    THE     FRUIT 

The  Melon  is  dioecious,  bearing  male  and  female  flowers  on  the  same  plant. 
The  first  is  essential  for  the  fertilization  of  the  second.  The  male  flower  has 
three  stamens  united  by  their  anthers,  but  the  filaments  are  distinct.  The 
part  between  the  stem  and  base  of  the  corolla  is  slender  and  cyfindrical.  The 
female  flower  i.-  readily  distinguished  from  the  male,  being  altogether  stouter. 
In  the  Summer,  with  an  abundance  of  fresh  air  admitted  and  bees  among  the 
blossoms,  the  pollen  may  be  fairly  w^ell  distributed  without  the  aid  of  hand 
fertilization.  But  it  is  not  wise  to  depend  on  circumstances,  as  the  operation 
does  not  require  much  time.  It  is  well  to  bear  in  mind  the  number  of  fruit 
that  each  vine  is  to  carry.  When  the  plants  are  set  fifteen  inches  apart,  two 
Melons  on  each  vine  will  make  an  excellent  crop,  particularly  for  private  use, 
where  two  perfectly  finished  Melons  will  count  more  than  four  poor  ones.  But 
whatever  may  be  the  desired  number  on  each  vine,  the  full  complement  should 
be  set  on  the  vine  at  one  time,  otherwise  the  early  set  blossom  will  take  the 
lead,  while  the  others  may  refuse  to  swell  at  all.  The  operation  is  simple.  In  the 
first  place,  see  that  the  pollen  is  perfectly  dry.    Then  when  both  male  and  female 


,74  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

flowers  are  fully  expanded,  select  a  male  blossom,  strip  ofT  its  corolla  and  invert 
in  the  female  blossom.  Choose  a  clear,  bright  day,  if  possible,  and  do  the  work 
around  mid-day.  Blossoms  that  are  fertilized  in  bright  sunshine  will  be  found 
to  swell  much  more  rapidly  and  produce  a  decidedly  better  crop,  if  the  vines 
are  in  a  healthy  condition;  then  the  fruit  will  make  quick  headway.  After 
fertilization  and  before  the  fruit  gets  very  weighty,  supports  will  be  needed. 
Various  contrivances  have  been  used  for  this  purpose.  A  favorite  support 
years  ago  was  a  piece  of  board  nine  or  ten  inches  square  with  a  hole  bored  into 
each  corner,  and  a  piece  of  pliable  wire  secured  thereto,  long  enough  to  fasten 
to  the  trellis.  Another  plan  is  to  use  strong  rafTia  twisted  into  a  sling,  which 
will  support  the  fruit.  There  is  some  danger,  however,  in  these  two  methods, 
as  the  fruit  may  drop,  which  means  a  complete  loss,  as  it  then  usually  splits. 
The  best  and  safest  way  is  to  support  the  fruit  with  nets  about  twelve  inches 
square  and  fastened  to  the  trellis  with  a  sufficiently  long  piece  of  string.  This 
is  the  most  satisfactory  support  in  e\ery  way  and  will  last  for  years. 

WATERING 

Judgment  is  necessary  in  watering.  Melons  delight  in  a  liberal  supply 
of  moisture,  both  at  the  roots  and  in  the  atmosphere.  Spraying  will  therefore 
be  in  order  two  or  three  times  a  day  in  bright  weather.  When  the  firing  has 
stopped,  it  is  not  advisable  to  spray  the  vines  very  late  in  the  evening.  Never 
close  the  vents  tight  from  the  time  the  fires  are  out  until  artificial  heat  is  again 
turned  on.  We  usually  have  three  to  three  and  one-half  months  without  fire. 
If  a  house  without  fire  heat  is  closed,  the  condensation  is  too  great  and  may  induce 
disease,  or  what  is  commonly  known  as  black  spot  on  the  foliage.  The  crop 
should  never  suffer  for  want  of  water  at  the  roots,  particularly  when  in  active 
growth;  then  a  humid  atmosphere  should  be  maintained,  except  when  fer- 
tilizing the  blossoms  and  again  when  the  fruit  is  ripening.  At  these  periods 
there  should  be  a  drier  atmosphere.  Less  moisture  at  the  roots  will  then  also 
improve  the  flavor.  But  do  not  allow  the  foliage  to  flag.  Crops  have  been  wholly 
or  partially  ruined  by  carelessness  in  watering.  If  Melons  are  allowed  to  suffer 
for  want  of  water  when  in  full  growth,  the  root  action  will  be  considerably  dam- 
aged. Soft  roots  like  those  of  the  Melon  cannot  safely  withstand  any  extieme 
drying.  Nor  is  it  well  to  give  an  over-abundance  of  water,  or  to  keep  the  soil 
always  saturated.  Gi\e  a  thorough  watering,  then  allow  the  soil  to  sweeten 
before  applying  more.  This  plan  will  maintain  a  healthy  root  action  from 
start  to   finish. 

FEEDING 

Feeding  depends  to  some  extent  on  the  condition  of  the  vines.  Some  soils 
are  so  poor  that  the  grower  will  have  to  depend  wholly  on  systematic  feeding 
and  top  dressing  to  get  satisfactory  results.  But  with  a  rich,  retentive  loam 
very  little  feeding  is  needed  until  the  fruit  is  set.  Without  a  robust  vine  it 
is  impossible  to  gather  fruit  six  and  seven  pounds  in  weight.     It  is  therefore 


MELON-GROWING  IN  THE  HOUSE  175 

well  to  build  up  the  vines  gradually,  so  that  they  can  yield  the  fruit  demanded 
of  them.  Several  years  ago  I  tried  an  experiment  with  a  batch  of  Melons,  grow- 
ing one  half  wholly  with  the  aid  of  cow  manure,  used  in  liquid  form,  which 
produced  an  exceedingly  fine  crop  of  fruit.  The  other  half  I  brought  along  with 
the  aid  of  sheep  manure,  but  this  crop  was  a  sorry  sight.  I  have  proved  to 
my  own  satisfaction  more  than  once,  that  sheep  manure  is  not  agreeable  to  a 
Melon  crop.  I  believe,  however,  that  a  change  of  food  is  beneficial  to  any  growing 
crop.  The  main  thing  is  to  find  out  just  what  is  good  for  certain  crops.  While 
I  do  not  believe  in  carrying  experiments  to  extremes,  yet  some  experimenting 
is  educational  and  of  great  benefit  at  times. 

Top  dressing  is  one  of  the  best  means  of  producing  healthy,  vigorous  plants. 
Whenever  a  top  dressing  is  applied,  it  seems  to  give  a  new  lease  of  life  to  the 
root  action,  which  is  a  fair  indication  that  this  method  of  applying  food  is  agree- 
able. Free  root  action  means  excellent  foliage,  and  good  foliage  means  fine 
Melons. 

As  to  the  most  suitable  material  for  feeding,  and  the  method  of  applying 
it,  most  growers  in  this  country  probably  work  along  the  same  lines.  Syste- 
matic feeding  in  proper  quantities  is  most  important.  The  crop  will  take  a 
fair  amount  of  feeding,  but  it  will  not  endure  gorging.  It  is  far  better  to  err 
on  the  light  side.  An  overfed  Melon  vine  acts  much  like  a  stunted  one.  In 
fact,  more  food  than  the  roots  can  absorb  will  cause  stagnation.  Ichthemic 
guano,  used  as  a  top  dressing,  in  the  proportion  of  about  twenty  parts  of  soil 
to  one  part  of  guano,  will  produce  a  good  growth.  A  top  dressing  of  this  kind 
should  be  applied  just  as  the  vine  needs  watering. 

Nitrate  of  soda,  in  careful  hands,  can  be  used  for  two  purposes:  It  will  hasten 
maturity  and  increase  the  size  of  the  fruit,  particularly  with  the  assistance 
of  other  food.  Cow  manure  water  may  be  advantageously  used  a  few  times 
while  the  fruit  is  swelling.  A  tablespoonful  of  nitrate  of  soda  to  three  gallons 
of  water  is  a  safe  proportion.  The  soil  should  be  moderately  moist  when  apply- 
ing the  soda.  The  best  time  to  use  this  is  after  the  fruit  is  set  and  swelling 
rapidly. 

Clay's  fertilizer  has  proved  excellent  for  bringing  along  this  crop  to  the 
highest  state  of  perfection,  with  the  assistance  of  other  ingredients.  Clay's 
is  best  used  in  a  liquid  form,  a  moderately  small  handful  to  three  gallons  of 
water.  If  bone  is  used  in  the  compost,  it  should  be  the  finest  grade,  or  that 
known  as  bone  flour. 

As  it  takes  only  ten  to  twelve  weeks  from  the  time  the  plants  are  set  in 
their  fruiting  quarters  until  the  fruit  is  matured,  the  food  must  be  of  a  quick 
acting  nature,  so  that  the  plant  will  get  the  full  benefit.  I  have  said  that  I 
prefer  a  change  of  diet,  but  whatever  is  given,  the  grower  should  know  the 
nature  of  the  food  and  how  it  will  agree  with  the  development  both  of  vine  and 
fruit.  Melons  will  resent  anything  that  is  not  suitable  to  their  growth  more 
than  any  other  fruit  I  know.  If  a  mistake  has  been  made  and  the  vines  receive 
a  severe  check,  it  is  an  up-hill  proposition  to  revive  them.  Therefore,  good 
judgment  must  be  exercised. 

I  have  grown  excellent  Melons  with  the  aid  of  cow  manure  water  alone, 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


Melon  Sli'icrb 

The  above  picture  represents  a  Midwinter  crop  of  Melons  growing  in  boxes.     The  variety 

Superb  is  admirably  adapted  for  Winter  forcing 


MELON-GROWING  IN  THE  HOUSE  177 

but  the  grower  using  the  chemicals  indicated  will  have  better  results  in  diflferent 
ways.  Most  important  of  all,  the  flavor  will  be  far  superior  to  what  it  would 
be  if  manure  water  alone  were  used.  Deficiency  in  flavor  may  be  due  to  various 
causes,  as  lack  of  root  action  or  too  much  moisture,  both  in  the  air  and  at  the 
roots.  With  proper  care  in  feeding  and  good  root  action  the  results  should  be 
excellent.  It  is  not  always  a  question  of  size,  but  when  the  grower  can  com- 
bine size  with  high  quality  the  height  of  his  ambition  is  realized.  Still,  a  Melon 
five  or  six  pounds  in  weight  is  sufficient  for  all  purposes. 

GATHERING    THE     FRUIT 

Flavor  may  be  assisted  somewhat  by  gathering  the  fruit  at  the  right  stage 
of  development.  If  allowed  to  get  over-ripe,  the  flesh  will  be  of  a  soft,  musky 
flavor,  disagreeable  rather  than  palatable.  When  they  finish  with  full  vigor. 
Melons  will  ripen  very  quickly.  Sometimes  the  color  will  change  in  a  night; 
the  fruit  will  emit  a  strong  perfume,  and  it  will  probably  also  show  signs  of  part- 
ing from  the  stalk;  it  is  then  in  the  best  possible  condition  for  gathering,  though 
it  may  seem  quite  solid.  At  this  stage  it  should  be  placed  in  a  cool,  airy  room 
and  kept  there  for  a  few  days,  according  to  the  weather.  This  will  allow  the 
fruit  to  soften  or  mellow,  and  it  will  then  retain  its  full  flavor.  Melons  should 
not  be  kept  in  the  refrigerator  for  many  hours  before  using;  this  is  often  done 
with  the  result  that  the  grower  is  blamed  for  a  fault  not  his  own,  for  Melons 
so  treated  lose  in  flavor. 

No  doubt  many  excellent  varieties  have  been  condemned  through  lack  of 
knowledge  in  gathering  at  the  proper  stage  of  ripeness. 

INSECTS     AND     MILDEW 

The  careful  grower  will  not  be  troubled  much  with  either  insect  life  or 
fungous  diseases.  These  are  generally  brought  on  by  careless  airing  and  in- 
effective spraying.  Red  spider  is  the  most  dreaded  insect;  if  not  checked  it 
will  ruin  the  crop  in  a  short  time,  as  it  makes  rapid  headway  on  the  soft  foliage. 
A  clean  start  is  the  best  preventive  for  this  evil.  Give  the  house  a  wash-down 
after  every  crop.  The  pest  can  be  eradicated  by  the  effective  use  of  the  spray, 
applying  it  directly  under  the  foliage  with  as  much  force  as  the  leaves  will  stand. 
Sponging  foliage  of  this  kind  is  harmful. 

Green  fly  must  also  be  destroyed.  Although  it  is  not  often  troublesome, 
yet  it  may  be  brought  about  through  too  drj-  an  atmosphere.  Melon  vines  will 
absolutely  refuse  to  grow  when  infested  with  green  fl\-,  for  it  causes  the  leaves 
to  curl  up  and  gives  the  vine  a  stunted  appearance.  It  can  be  easily  killed 
off  with  a  light  fumigation  a  couple  of  nights  in  succession;  this  is  better  than  too 
strong  an  application  at  one  time.  As  the  tender  leaves  are  easily  damaged, 
heavy  smoking  is  not  good  for  them,  especially  in  very  warm  Summer  weather; 
the  foliage  will  not  stand  as  much  then  as  in  cold  weather. 

Mildew  does  not  often  attack  the  foliage.  It  is  at  times  a  bit  troublesome 
toward  the  Fall.     A  light  dusting  of  sulphur  on  the  foliage,  or  a  patch  put  on 


178  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

the  pipes  when  tlie  hot  water  Is  on,  will  generally  check  its  spread.  If  the  pipes 
are  extra  hot,  in  a  very  cold  spell,  only  a  small  quantity  of  sulphur  should  be 
placed  on  them,  or  the  fumes  may  overcome  the  vines. 

VARIETIES 

Quite  a  number  of  varieties  can  be  recommended  highly  for  forcing  under 
glass,  but  to  keep  up  the  standard  of  excellence  in  the  selection  of  seed  requires 
care  and  good  judgment.  Where  there  are  four  or  five  varieties  in  the  same 
melonhouse,  all  growing  together,  the  pollen  will  distribute  itself  over  all,  and 
we  get  promiscuous  cross-fertilization,  especially  in  the  Summer.  If  this  were 
allowed  to  continue  for  any  length  of  time,  it  would  result  in  deterioration. 
The  only  sure  method  for  improvement  is  to  grow  each  kind  in  a  house  by  itself 
and  carefully  select  the  finest  specimens,  allowing  the  fruit  intended  for  seed 
to  stay  on  the  vine  until  dead  ripe.  Melons  will  reproduce  themselves  in  this 
way,  and  with  careful  selection  the  variety  will  improve  rather  than  deteriorate. 
If  a  variation  from  the  type  grown  is  desired,  the  pollen  from  another  promising 
variety  must  be  secured,  fertilizing  the  fruit  intended  for  seed.  In  this  way 
an  improvement  may  be  obtained. 

In  many  cases,  however,  it  is  desirable  to  grow  a  mixed  house,  so  as  to 
secure  variety  for  the  table.  A  green-fleshed  Melon  one  day  and  a  scarlet- 
fleshed  specimen  the  next  is  a  pleasant  change.  It  is  not  advisable  to  depend 
on  seed  from  a  mixed  house,  at  least  for  many  crops.  Better  procure  seed  from 
a  place  where  it  has  been  carefully  selected  true  to  name.  You  cannot  expect 
improvement  in  any  seed  that  is  selected  haphazard. 

Melons  may  be  divided  into  three  classes:  green  flesh,  scarlet  flesh  and 
white  flesh.  There  are  two  or  three  Melons  of  excellent  flavor  in  the  last- 
named  class,  but,  personally,  I  do  not  admire  the  white-fleshed  sort.  I  consider 
green  or  scarlet  flesh  decidedly  more  inviting,  though  Royal  Favorite  and  Hero 
of  Lockinge  are  all  that  could  be  desired  as  to  richness  of  flavor.  Our  American 
Emerald  Gem  has  been  recommended  at  different  times  for  forcing  purposes, 
and  the  flavor  of  this  excellent  variety  is  well  known.  The  constitution  of 
Emerald  Gem  is  unfortunately  a  bit  weak  for  forcing  under  glass,  which  makes 
it  less  desirable  for  a  forcing  Melon.  The  following  varieties  will  be  found  satis- 
factory for  forcing  purposes: 


Green  Flesh 

Royal  Jubilee 

Sutton's  Scarlet 

A   careful     selection    of 

Sutton's  Triumph 

Sutton's  Ringleader 

Emerald  Gem  may  also 

Sutton's  Invincible 

Best  of  All 

be  grown  under  glass 

Perfection 

White  Flesh 

Sutton's  Emerald  Gem 

Scarlet   Flesh 

Rovai  Favorite 

Windsor  Castle 

Superlative 

Hero  of  Lockinge 

Turner's  Seedling 

Sutton's  A I 

Buscot   Park    Hero 

STRAWBERRIES    AS    POT    ERUIT 


CHAPTER  XXVIII 


STRAWBERRIES  AS  POT  FRUIT 

Selecting  the  Runners — Process  of  Forcing — Temperatures — 
Feeding,  etc.— Watering— Gathering  the  Fruit 

THE  Strawberry  has  been  forced  successfully  for  many  years,  and  most 
people  welcome  this  popular  fruit  whether  in  season  or  out.  It  responds 
readily  to  the  forcing  process  if  a  few  necessary  details  are  carried  out  and 
varieties  are  selected  that  are  suitable  for  the  purpose.  Indeed,  finer  fruit  may 
be  had  from  pots  than  from  open  air  culture.  No  birds  or  insects  to  mar  the 
berries,  and  perfect  fruit  of  the  largest  size,  with  pleasing  color  and  flavor,  may 
be  grown.  Strawberries  under  glass  are  not  a  very  expensive  luxury,  taking 
everything  into  account.  They  may  be  brought  along  with  other  crops,  with 
no  interference  whatever.  They  arc  what  is  called  a  catch  crop,  which  I  will 
explain  later. 

There  are  few  places  where  greenhouse  gardening  is  earned  on  to  any 
extent,  that  do  not  grow  some  Strawberries.  This  crop  is  among  the  first  of 
the  season,  and  may  be  had  with  little  effort  from  the  end  of  February  to  the 
first  of  June  by  bringing  in  a  batch  every  week  or  ten  days.  But,  like  all 
fruit  under  glass,  thy  must  receive  proper  care.  Southern  berries,  which 
appear  in  the  market  very  early  in  the  season,  cannot  compaie  with  the  hot- 
house fruit  as  to  size  and  high  quality.  As  a  dessert  fruit  the  Strawberry 
is  popular  throughout  this  country,  though  it  is  best  known  to  the  general 
public  in  its  natural  season  or  in  its  wild  state.  With  our  wonderfully  varying 
climates  in  the  different  States,  the  berry  season  is  a  long  one;  still,  there  will 
be  always  room  for  the  greenhouse  fruit,  particularly  among  the  wealthy  classes. 
It  may  not  always  pay  as  a  money-making  proposition,  but  it  more  than  pays 
in  a  private  establishment,  for  the  owner  will  have  here  something  that  money 
cannot  purchase,  and  a  basket  of  fine  Strawberries  is  a  most  acceptable  present 
for  a  friend  at  any  time.  The  Strawberry  is  a  pot  fruit  par  excellence  in  every 
private  establishment,  if  grown  to  the  highest  state  of  perfection. 

In  years  gone  by  it  was  thought  that  forced  berries  could  not  possibly  be 
brought  up  to  the  outdoor  standard,  but  in  recent  years  the  greenhouse  produc- 
tion has  increased  rapidly  and  it  now  ranks  as  a  very  perfect  fruit.  To  obtain 
this  result  there  must  be  no  guesswork.  Give  the  plants  the  proper  treatment 
and  they   will  respond.     One  of  the  greatest  lessons  that  each  grower   must 


,8o  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

learn  is  to  imitate  natural  temperatures  to  a  certain  extent;  then  failures  will 
be  few  and  the  success  great.  We  cannot  expect  success  if  on  starting  to  force 
a  plant  we  rush  on  too  much  heat  before  it  gets  acclimatized  or  before  the  root 
action  begins.  There  will  be  no  end  of  trouble  if  Strawberries  are  brought 
along  in  an  atmosphere  that  is  too  close  and  humid.  While  good  foliage  is 
necessary  both  for  the  development  of  root  action  and  for  the  fruit,  yet  if  an 
over-abundance  of  foliage  is  encouraged  by  too  much  heat  and  moisture,  the 
fruit  will  sufler.  It  will  withstand  a  fairly  brisk  temperature  after  the  fruit 
is  set,  but  high  temperature  should  be  avoided  before  that.  This  may  seem 
slow  work  but  the  crop  will  more  than  repay  even  if  it  does  take  a  lew  days 
longer  to  mature.  If  brought  along  in  a  moderate  temperature  until  the  fruit 
is  set  and  the  temperature  is  then  increased  by  ten  degrees  the  rapid  progress 
is  surprising.  By  this  method  of  forcing,  moreover,  much  finer  fruit  will  be 
obtained. 

I  have  said  that  forced  Strawberries  may  be  had  from  the  end  of  February 
to  the  first  of  June,  but  it  is  possible  to  have  ripe  fruit  before  the  date  first 
mentioned.  I  have  had  it  earlier;  but  I  ha\e  come  to  the  conclusion  that  it 
is  not  worth  the  time  and  labor  bestowed  upon  it.  In  the  first  place  it  seems 
impossible  to  obtain  the  rich  flavor  until  toward  the  end  of  February  or  the 
first  of  March;  besides,  the  premature  crop  is  so  light  that  quite  a  number  of 
plants  are  required  to  secure  a  decent  gathering. 

Strawberries  under  glass  do  not  need  a  special  house  for  themselves;  still, 
the  berries  cannot  be  ripened  up  on  a  bench.  No  matter  what  care  is  given  to 
the  preliminary  work,  success  is  uncertain  unless  suitable  quarters  are  selected 
for  the  fruiting.  This  is  nothing  new.  When  I  was  a  lad,  it  was  my  work 
to  water  the  Strawberries  with  a  watering  can  while  standing  on  a  ladder,  for 
the  pots  were  ranged  on  a  shelf  at  the  highest  point  of  a  leanto  house  within  a 
foot  or  six  inches  of  the  glass.  Before  I  was  done  I  was  usually  drenched,  as 
I  had  to  hold  the  can  over  my  head,  and  the  water  ran  down  my  arms  and  body. 
The  sensation  was  not  a  pleasant  one,  and  no  one  will  disagree  with  me  when  I 
say  that  my  opinion  of  Strawberry  forcing  was  not  a  high  one  at  that  time. 
But  the  methods  have,  fortunately,  changed.  The  lad  of  today,  plying  a  hose, 
with  the  water  turned  on  to  suit  his  purpose,  can  accomplish  as  much  in  ten 
minutes  as  I  could  in  half  an  hour — and  much  more  comfortably.  It  was  a 
case  of  working  hard  and  accomplishing  little  or  nothing. 

The  plants  must  be  in  a  position  where  they  will  receive  the  full  sunlight  and 
a  circulation  of  air,  particularly  when  in  bloom  and  again  when  ripening  their 
fruit.  I  have  found  hanging  shelves  admirably  adapted  for  the  development 
of  the  Strawberry.  Most  houses  now  constructed  are  probably  of  iron,  and 
the  shelves  may  be  arranged  so  that  the  growing  crops  will  not  be  damaged. 
All  that  is  needed  is  a  shelf  wide  enough  to  accommodate  a  six-inch  pot,  and  if 
a  four-inch  board  is  nailed  along  each  side  of  the  shelf,  there  will  be  no  accident. 
These  shelves  can  be  hung  up  in  any  house  by  means  of  fairly  strong  iron  sup- 
ports made  to  clasp  around  the  shelves,  welted  together  on  top  with  a  cleat 
turned  at  an  angle,  to  fit  over  the  cross  bar  or  angle  iron  of  the  greenhouse. 
Three-quarter  half-round  iron  is  best  for  the  purpose,  and  it  will  hold  the  shelf 


STRAWBERRIES    AS    POT    FRUIT  i8i 

steady.  If  the  irons  are  adjusted  at  t;ie  propei  angle  the  shelf  will  be  perfectly 
level.  With  such  a  shelf  it  will  not  be  necessary  to  drive  a  nail,  and  when  the 
berry  season  is  over  the  sheKes  can  be  stored  away  until  needed  again.  Have 
the  shelf  irons  long  enough,  so  that  the  Strawberry  foliage  will  be  about  six  inches 
from  the  glass.  The  advantage  of  shelves  of  this  description  is  that  when  they 
are  remo\ed  there  will  be  no  marks  to  disfigure  the  house.  They  can  be  hung 
up  in  any  house,  and  if  the\-  arc  not  made  too  long,  they  will  not  be  cumbersome 
to  handle. 


Strawberry  Sharpless 
This  old  standard  variety  can  still  be  higlily  recommended  for  forcing,  providing  strong, 
heahhy  stock  is  procured 


SELECTING  THE  RUNNERS 


There  are  different  methods  of  treating  runners.  It  is  ver_\-  important 
to  secure  strong,  thrifty  ones  from  comparatively  young  plants.  Good  stock 
cannot  be  propagated  from  old,  worn-out  beds.  Though  fairly  good  crowns 
might  develop  out  of  runners  from  old  beds,  the  berries  will  not  be  nearly  so 
fine  as  when  taken  from  young  plants.  This,  of  course,  applies  to  the  propaga- 
tion of  all  plants.     If  one  goes  to  the  expense  of  growing  Strawberries  artifici- 


i82  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

ally  the  very  best  is  none  too  good  for  the  purpose,  ^\'ith  careful  selection  of 
stock,  berries  of  enormous  size  may  be  had  in  pots;  it  is  therefore  to  the  interest 
of  the  grower  to  procure  the  best  he  can  obtain. 

Select  early  runners  so  that  the  crowns  may  have  time  to  mature  and  ripen 
up  thoroughly  b}'  Fall.  At  times,  especially  in  a  very  dry  season,  it  may  be 
diflicult  to  procure  early  runners,  unless  there  has  been  watering.  If  you  have 
strong  plants  in  two-inch  pots  read}-  for  re-potting  about  the  end  of  July,  ample 
time  will  be  allowed  to  grow  or  develop  the  crowns  before  the  Winter  sets  in. 
I  have  found  that  if  the  plants  are  grown  much  earlier  than  this,  split  crowns 
may  be  the  result.  I  would  rather  have  one  good  crown  than  two  or  three  split 
ones.  These  latter  are  \ery  undesirable  for  forcing,  especially  when  extra  fine 
fruit  Is  the  aim. 

Runners  are  generally  produced  in  great  abundance,  more  freely  by  some 
varieties  than  by  others.  There  are  two  methods  for  increasing  the  stock: 
\\  hen  the  runners  are  large  enough  or  begin  to  emit  roots,  fill  a  number  of  two- 
inch  pots  with  soil,  plunge  the  pot  in  the  soil  and  place  one  runner  on  each  pot, 
securing  it  with  a  stone  or  a  peg,  or  anything  that  will  hold  it  in  place  until  it 
has  rooted.  The  runner  will  often  extend  beyond  and  form  another  plant,  but 
one  plant  to  a  runner  is  ample.  If  the  runner  shows  signs  of  extending,  pinch 
first  beyond  the  plant  that  is  layered.  They  should  be  left  until  the  pots  are 
filled  with  roots  before  cutting  away  from  the  mother  plant.  In  very  dry  weather 
the  pots  must  be  kept  moist  or  root  action  will  be  slow.  Excellent  plants  may 
be  obtained  in  this  manner.  In  a  moist  season  extra  strong  runners  may  be 
had  with  very  little  trouble. 

I  have  also  secured  excellent  runners  by  culti\ating  between  the  rows, 
directly  after  the  fruit  has  been  all  gathered.  Soften  up  the  surface,  then  as 
the  runners  come  away  from  the  old  plants,  they  will  readily  root  into  the  soft 
surface,  forming  nice  young  plants  in  a  short  time  if  the  weather  is  favorable. 
But  do  not  allow  these  runners  to  get  too  firmly  established,  or  they  may  receive 
a  severe  check  on  being  taken  up.  Stock  secured  in  this  way  should  be  potted 
up  in  two-inch  or  two  and  one-half-inch  pots;  a  fairly  close  place  is  preferable 
until  they  are  established  in  the  pots.  A  frame  is  good  for  the  purpose,  with  a 
light  shade,  to  prevent  the  young  plants  from  wilting.  Gradually  admit  more 
air  as  they  establish  themselves.  The  main  point  is  to  establish  them,  but  not 
to  let  the  foliage  llag.  In  a  week  or  ten  days  they  will  be  ready  for  a  shift  into 
larger  pots.  Good  stock  may  be  secured  with  either  system,  in  careful  hands 
and  with  attention  to  details. 

PROCESS  OF  FORCING,  TEMPERATURES,   FEEDING,  ETC. 

We  come  now  to  the  more  fascinating  work  of  gradually  bringing  the  fruit 
along  to  maturity.  There  is  nothing  more  interesting  than  to  watch  the  steady 
progress  of  a  healthy  batch  of  Strawberries.  They  will  throw  up  their  dainty 
blossoms,  that  tell  of  Spring,  while  outside  there  may  be  frost  and  snow.  In 
this  contrast  the  Strawberry  bloom  is  all  the  more  inviting,  and  the  fruit  follow- 
inc  is  a  picture  to  behold.      When   Strawberry  forcing  is  done  to  any  extent^ 


STRAWBERRIES    AS    POT    FRUIT  183 

berries  may  be  seen  together  at  ail  stages  of  development,  from  those  just  be- 
ginning to  grow  to  the  lusciously  ripe  fruit. 

I  think  the  Strawberry  is  a  valuable  crop  which  should  be  included  in  ever\ 
establishment.  Even  where  there  is  no  fruithouse  at  all,  a  few  batches  may  be 
easily  brought  along  in  another  house,  where  they  will  give  equal  pleasure.  It 
is  the  early  maturity  of  a  crop  of  this  nature  that  appeals,  for  it  gives  an  extended 
season  from  the  first  of  March  to  the  time  when  the  garden  crop  begins,  if  there 
are  enough  plants  for  the  purpose.  By  the  method  that  I  have  suggested  it 
really  costs  nothing  but  labor.  A  carnation,  vegetable  or  rosehouse  can  easily 
be  made  to  accommodate  a  few  shelves,  hung  along  the  cross  bars  with  little  or 
no  damage  below. 

Excellent  results  ma>-  be  had  when  houses  with  different  temperatures  are 
at  command,  a  temperature  of  45°  to  start  with  at  night,  with  a  rise  of  10  in 
the  day,  or  15°  with  sun  heat.  For  this  stage  a  \egetable  house  where  Lettuce, 
Cauliflower,  Radishes,  etc.,  are  grown  is  excellent.  Let  the  berry  pots  stay 
here  until  they  get  acclimatized,  or  root  action  begins,  and  the  new  foliage  is 
expanding.  Then  a  carnationhouse  temperature  will  be  agreeable,  until  the 
plants  are  through  blooming,  with  the  fruit  set;  when  this  is  done,  a  rose- 
house  temperature  may  be  given,  or  higher  if  necessary.  If  they  are  not  sub- 
jected to  any  extreme  heat,  more  air  can  be  admitted  when  the  fruit  is  ripen- 
ing, and  this  will  heighten  the  color,  improve  the  flavor,  and  give  tone  to  the 
berries,  two  very  important  factors  in  the  make-up  of  a  perfect  berry.  With- 
out high  color  the  flavor  will  be  decidedly  flat.  With  a  rosehouse  temperature 
and  a  free  circulation  of  air  the  conditions  should  be  perfect  for  both  high  color 
and  rich  flavor.  But  these  are  only  two  requirements.  For  poor  root  action 
there  is  no  remedy.  Fruit  produced  under  this  condition  is  of  decidedly  low 
grade  and  almost  tasteless.  Careless  watering  and  poor  drainage  are  generally 
the  cause  of  sluggish  root  action.  A  too  high  grade  manure  will  also  cause 
stagnation.  When  Strawberry  roots  once  become  inacti\e,  it  is  difficult  to 
bring  them  around  again. 

Skill  and  close  attention  are  required  when  bringing  the  plants  in  very  early 
for  forcing.  Later  in  the  season  there  is  little  or  no  difficulty  in  procuring  a 
good  crop,  especially  through  April  and  May,  for  then  an  abundance  of  air  may 
be  admitted,  which  is  agreeable  to  them.  The  first  lot  of  plants  may  be  brought 
in  between  the  middle  of  December  and  the  first  of  January.  If  they  have  had 
a  fair  amount  of  frost  before  forcing,  they  will  start  up  soon.  They  should  have 
a  fair  amount  of  foliage.  When  they  make  this  growth  before  coming  into 
bloom,  with  roots  working,  one  application  of  nitrate  of  soda  will  help 
them  and  give  tone  to  the  foliage.  Give  it  in  the  proportion  of  a 
tablespoonful  to  a  three-gallon  can  of  water.  Feed  no  more  until  the 
fruit  is  set,  but  after  this  they  will  take  a  surprising  amount  of  food  to 
good  advantage,  provided  there  is  not  too  strong  an  application  at  one 
time.  It  is  better  to  feed  light  and  often,  increasing  as  the  plant  gets 
accustomed  to  the  process,  assuming  that  the  roots  are  working.  Growing 
berries  in  a  six-inch  pot  means  producing  a  crop  under  restrictions.  Then 
if  extra  large  berries   are  required,  there  must  be  sj'stematic    feeding.      With 


i84  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

a  high-grade  fertilizer  intelligently  applied,  better  results  may  be  obtained 
from    six-inch    pots    than    from    larger    ones. 

There  are  different  manures  adapted  to  this  crop.  Clay's,  used  in  a  liquid 
form,  is  a  manure  of  tried  value.  Ichthemic  guano  as  a  top  dressing  is  also 
good,  in  the  proportion  of  four  or  five  of  soil  to  one  of  Ichthemic,  applied  as  a 
light  surface  dressing.  Bon  Arbor  may  also  be  used  with  good  effects.  Even 
cow  manure  water  now  and  then  will  help  to  bring  the  crop  along;  but  when 
the  berries  get  large,  chemicals  are  cleaner  to  use,  and  give  the  same  or  better 
results. 

The  first  lot  of  plants,  after  being  started,  may  be  brought  into  heat  from 
the  middle  of  December  to  the  first  of  January.  Where  a  steady  supply  of  fruit 
is  desired,  fresh  plants  should  be  brought  in  about  every  ten  days,  and  treated 
as  recommended  for  the  first  lot.  Bring  the  pots  in  according  to  the  stock, 
but  the  batch  should  always  be  large  enough  to  yield  two  quarts  or  more  at  one 
gathering.     This  means  fifty  or  seventy-five  pots  in  a  batch. 

WATERING 

Good  judgment  must  be  used  in  watering  during  the  short  days.  When 
the  plants  are  first  brought  in,  they  should  be  held  a  bit  on  the  dry  side.  In- 
crease the  moisture  as  the  growth  advances.  After  the  fruit  is  set  it  will  take 
a  liberal  amount  until  it  starts  to  ripen;  then  the  plants  may  again  be  kept  a 
little  drier  at  the  root.  A  better  flavor  will  be  obtained  with  this  treatment. 
Nor  should  the  plants  be  fed  after  the  berries  begin  to  ripen;  but  during  the 
period  of  developing  their  fruit  they  may  be  fed  twice  a  week  with  either  liquid 
or  top  dressing. 

GATHERING  THE  FRUIT 

Strawberries  should  color  up  well  before  being  gathered.  If  they  have 
to  be  shipped  a  great  distance  it  is  better  to  pick  them  while  they  are  still  firm. 
Take  the  morning  or  late  afternoon  for  this  work,  when  the  weather  is  bright. 
Delicate  fruit  like  Strawberries,  when  sent  by  express,  must  be  packed  with 
some  care.  Have  the  berries  perfectly  dry.  The  best  thing  to  use  is  the  regular 
quart  berry  basket.  First  line  the  berry  basket  with  cotton  wool  and  wax 
paper;  then  pack  in  the  fruit  with  a  perfectly  dry  leaf  of  the  Strawberry  plant 
between  each  berry.  If  there  is  any  moisture  on  either  foliage  or  fruit,  the 
latter  will  not  reach  its  destination  in  a  \er\  tempting  condition;  but  with  dry 
packing  it  will  arrive  in  good  shape. 

Setting  the  fruit  is  very  important.  There  are  no  insects  to  perform  this 
work  early  in  the  season.  To  secure  a  perfect  set,  the  pollen  must  be  dry  around 
mid-day,  and  this  means  that  water  should  be  kept  off  the  foliage  while  the 
berries  are  in  bloom.  Go  over  the  flowers  once  a  day  about  noon  with  a  camel's 
hair  brush,  until  a  sufficient  number  of  berries  are  set.  If  the  pollen  is  dry,  a 
light  touch  with  the  brush  will  distribute  it  around  the  pistils.  Berries  that 
are  set  imperfectly  will  not  swell  evenly;  hence  the  importance  of  a  fairly  dry, 
bracing  atmosphere  while  the  plants  are  in  blossom. 


STRAWBERRIES  AS  POT  FRUIT  185 


CHAPTER    XXIX 


SECRETS  OF  SUCCESS  IN  STRAWBERRY  CULTURE 

Soil — Potting — Watering — Growing — The  Crown — Freezing  and  Winter 
Protection — Insects — Fungus — Varieties  for  Forcing 

STRAWBERRY  growers  of  experience  well  know  the  importance  of  de- 
voting their  attention  to  bringing  up  the  crowns  to  the  highest  state 
of  perfection,  and  the  beginner  should  learn  that  herein  lies  the  secret 
of  success  to  a  certain  extent.  The  desired  results  in  fruit  produced  by  the 
forcing  process  are  impossible  unless  the  crowns  are  thoroughly  ripened  in  the 
Fall.  De^•eiop  as  strong  a  crown  as  possible,  but  without  overstepping  the 
mark  with  rich  food  to  the  extent  of  splitting  the  crown.  The  Strawberry 
when  forming  the  crown  requires  as  much  attention  as  when  developing  the 
fruit. 

Soil  is  also  an  important  matter  to  be  considered.  \\'hile  Strawberries  will 
thrive  splendidly  in  the  field  or  garden  in  a  light,  sandy  soil — medium  and  heavy 
— they  cannot  be  forced  successfully  in  pots  with  such  soil.  A  good  rose  soil 
is  the  best  for  this  purpose,  adding  one  load  of  manure  to  three  loads  of  soil, 
in  a  more  decayed  state  than  for  Roses.  Most  growers  understand  the  term 
rose  soil  to  mean  a  friable  loam,  a  bit  iiea\y,  but  not  clayey. 

POTTING 

There  is  a  difference  of  opinion  as  to  the  best  method  of  potting.  Some 
good  growers  advise  to  repot  from  two  and  one-half-inch  pots  to  the  fruiting 
six-inch  pots.  I  have  done  this  too  in  the  past;  but  for  many  years  I  have 
repotted  from  two  and  one-half-inch  to  four-inch  pots;  then,  when  they  are 
rooted  through — they  should  not  under  any  circumstances  be  allowed  to  get 
pot-bound — I  repot  into  the  fruiting  six-inch  size.  By  this  method  I  get  a 
quick  and  substantial  growth.  If  the  plants  are  repotted  from  two  and  one-half- 
inch  into  six-inch  pots,  with  the  necessary  firming,  the  roots  will  take  a  long 
time  in  penetrating,  whereas  a  second  shift  from  four-inch  into  six-inch  pots 
seems  to  stimulate  the  root  action.  My  method  calls  for  more  labor,  but  the 
difference  in  the  crop  more  than  repays.  Moreover,  it  has  the  further  advan- 
tage that  a  stronger  compost  can  be  used  in  making  the  last  shift,  and  the  roots 
will  thus  be  in  condition  to  assimilate  more  food.     Where  labor  is  no  object, 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


Being  a  local  pr 
they  descrv 


Strawberry  Pride  oi    Red  Bank 

n,  the   sterlin<»   qualities  of    this    variety    may   not   be  so  widely  known  as 
nhesitatingly  class  this  as  one  of  the  very  best  for  growing  under  glass 


STRAWBERRIES  AS  POT  FRUIT  187 

this  method  is  undoubtedly  tlie  best.  This  is  no  theory  of  mine;  1  am  speaking 
from  practical  experience.  Tiie  plants  will  make  a  quick  growth  witii  strong 
crowns. 

Perfect  drainage  is  necessary  when  placing  the  plants  in  the  fruiting  pots. 
Strawberries  need  an  abundance  of  water  when  they  are  developing  their  crowns 
and  again  when  they  are  being  forced.  The  surplus  water  must  have  a  free 
outlet.  If  a  plant  is  not  looking  happy,  clogged  drainage  w-ill  generally  be 
found  to  be  the  cause.  I  place  about  one  inch  of  drainage  in  a  si.\-inch  pot, 
putting  a  fairly  large  crock  in  the  bottom,  with  a  sprinkling  of  soot,  to  prevent 
worms  from  working  their  way  through  and  ruining  the  soil;  the  soot  will  also 
benefit  the  plants.  The  soil  may  be  further  improved  by  a  light  application 
of  a  fertilizer,  especially  at  the  last  shift.  But  do  this  sparingly,  for  when  the 
plants  are  rooted  and  more  food  seems  necessary,  it  is  an  easy  matter  to  give  a 
watering  w'ith  Clay's  manure  (in  the  proportion  of  a  small  handful  to  three 
gallons  of  water)  or  with  Bon  Arbor;  either  of  these  will  stimulate  the  growth  of 
the  foliage,  which  should  have  good  substance  and  look  dark  and  healthy.  Thom- 
son's manure  is  also  excellent  for  building  up  a  good  growth;  it  should  be  mixed 
with  the  compost,  about  three  or  four  pounds  to  a  good  wheelbarrow  load, 
for  the  final  potting,  while  about  half  the  quantity  should  be  used  when  repot- 
ting from  small  pots  in  the  four-inch  size.  Or  take  less  of  Thomson's  and  add 
a  small  sprinkling  of  wood  ashes,  soot  and  bone  meal,  a  mixture  that  will  pro- 
duce a  steady,  uniform  growth.  Bone  meal  is  excellent  because  of  its  lasting 
qualities.  The  quantity  to  apply  of  course  depends  on  conditions,  and  each 
grower  must  consult  the  needs  of  his  plants.  A  weak  plant  takes  less  than  a 
strong  one.  The  nature  of  the  soil  must  also  be  taken  into  account.  But  the 
quantities  I  have  mentioned  are  on  the  safe  side. 

The  condition  of  the  soil  must  also  be  noted.  The  compost  should  be 
moist  enough  to  firm  well,  without  baking.  If  it  is  in  the  proper  friable  con- 
dition there  is  not  much  danger  of  potting  too  firmly.  First  put  some  suitable 
material  over  the  drainage,  to  prevent  the  finer  soil  from  percolating  through, 
as  this  would  eventually  clog  up,  in  the  final  potting.  Broken  pieces  of  sod 
are  best  for  this  purpose,  as  it  keeps  the  soil  above  in  place,  and  benefits  the  roots 
as  they  strike  through. 

When  the  plants  are  in  their  fruiting  pots,  the  best  location  for  them  is 
where  they  are  sheltered  from  the  north-east  winds  and  receive  the  full  sun  from 
morning  until  night.  They  may  stand  pot  to  pot  until  the  foliage  begins  to 
crowd,  when  they  must  be  given  more  space;  they  should  now  be  set  on  a  bed 
of  ashes,  which  is  a  preventive  against  worms.  I  do  not  approve  of  plung- 
ing the  pots  while  the  plants  are  growing,  for  in  a  prolonged  wet  spell  they  will 
not  dry  out.  Although  they  may  become  dry  oftener  than  when  plunged  in 
ashes  or  any  other  open  material,  yet  this  will  not  hurt  them,  but  will  rather 
•do  them  good,  so  long  as  they  do  not  suffer  from  want  of  moisture;  they  can  be 
easily  watered  with  the  hose.  Proper  watering  is  one  of  the  fundamental  prin- 
ciples in  the  treatment  of  all  plant  life.  The  successful  grower  is  the  man  who 
has  thoroughly  learned  this  art — when  to  give  and  when  to  withhold;  good 
root  action  depends  on  this,  and  without  such  action  we  face  defeat.     With 


,88  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

sluggish  ruot  action  feeding  is  of  little  avail,  and  is  even  hurtful,  for  the  nutri- 
ment has  to  be  carried  up  through  the  roots  to  the  foliage,  and  from  the  foliage 
to  the  fruit.  If  the  plants  have  been  carried  through  the  Winter  in  full  health, 
they  are  ready  to  respond  when  called  upon,  and  will  begin  to  grow  vigorously 
in  a  short  time.  Toward  Fall,  when  the  crowns  are  fully  developed,  less  water 
will  be  needed,  but  the  foliage  must  not  be  allowed  to  wilt. 

Nature  must  also  be  allowed  to  do  her  share  of  the  work,  never  forgetting 
the  natural  habits  and  requirements  of  our  plants.  Frost  is  essential  to  a  good 
berry  crop.  I  have  known  extra  early  batches  to  be  started  without  any  frost, 
drying  the  plants  off  enough  to  ripen  and  arrest  growth,  but  this  treatment  is 
not  a  satisfactory  one,  and  the  crop  will  hardly  repay  the  labor  spent  upon  it. 
The  plants  will  stand  ten  degrees  of  frost  with  benefit,  if  the  foliage  is  protected 
against  the  sun's  rays,  and  the  pots  against  damage  by  the  cold.  Where  cold- 
frames  are  available,  the  pots  can  be  plunged  into  them  in  a  bed  of  coal  ashes. 
During  severe  freezing  cover  with  the  sash  and  provide  other  protection,  as 
necessary.  The  burying  of  the  pots  not  only  avoids  a  possible  breakage  by  the 
frost,  but  the  moist  ashes  around  them  keep  the  roots  in  a  comfortable  condi- 
tion. When  Strawberries  can  be  carried  through  their  dormant  period  with- 
out watering,  the  roots  will  be  much  healthier.  If  they  are  stored  in  a  dry 
atmosphere,  watering  will  probably  be  necessary,  for  it  is  not  well  to  let  them 
get  o\er  dry,  even  when  dormant.  If  there  is  no  coldframe  at  hand,  they  may 
be  plunged  into  the  ground  outside  until  they  have  had  eight  to  ten  degrees  of 
frost.  They  should  be  screened  in  some  way,  so  that  the  sun  will  not  shine 
directly  on  the  foliage  when  in  a  frozen  state.  After  they  have  had  their  allow- 
ance of  frost,  they  may  be  stored  in  a  coldhouse — a  late  grapery,  for  instance; 
but  the  pots  should  still  be  plunged  either  into  ashes  or  moist  sand,  for  the  bene- 
fit accruing  to  the  plant  when  the  roots  are  kept  in  a  moist,  even  condition  is 
really  surprising.  Strawberries  prepared  for  forcmg  in  this  way  should  be  in 
excellent  condition  and  respond  readily  to  further  treatment.  But  all  the  de- 
tails I  lia\c  enumerated  are  necessary  for  a  good  crop  of  high  grade  fruit. 

INSECTS— FUNGUS 

Insects  are  not,  as  a  rule,  very  troublesome.  Red  spider  is  one  of  the  worst 
enemies, if  allowed  to  spread;  but  it  can  be  kept  down  easily  with  systematic 
spraying  of  the  foliage  every  bright  day  until  the  plants  begin  to  bloom,  and 
again  after  the  fruit  is  set.  Care  should  also  be  exercised  in  airing  and  water- 
ing, for  if  Strawberries  are  in  any  way  checked,  they  fall  an  easy  prey  to  red 
spider.  Green  fly  causes  trouble  at  times,  especially  during  a  long,  cloudy  spell. 
Fumigation  is  here  the  only  remedy  and  as  a  safeguard  it  may  be  well  to  resort 
to  it  just  before  the  plants  come  into  bloom.  An  attack  by  green  fly  at  the 
flowering  stage  is  a  serious  misfortune,  for  that  is  a  period  when  fumigation  is 
not   advisable. 

Fungus  is  more  troublesome  in  some  sections  of  the  country  than  in  others. 
The  fungus  most  to  be  dreaded  is  that  commonly  known  as  leaf  spot.  It  attacks 
the  foliage,  and  will  work  havoc  if  not  checked,  weakening  the  constitution  of 


STRAWBERRIES   AS  POT  FRUIT  189 

the  plant.  Bordeaux  mixture  or  copper  solution  sprayed  on  the  foliage  will 
check  it.  The  grower  must  be  on  his  guard  in  the  Fall,  when  the  stock  is  pre- 
pared for  forcing;  but  when  the  plants  are  taken  inside  the  foliage  is  generally 
fairly  fr€e  from  any  disease  or  fungous  growth. 

VARIETIES  FOR  FORCING 

There  are  a  number  of  varieties  that  will  submit  to  the  forcing  process; 
but  as  it  is  not  necessary  to  have  many  kinds,  those  should  be  selected  that  are 
known  to  give  the  best  results.  The  blossoms  of  all  Strawberries  are  either 
hermaphrodite  (perfect)  or  pistillate  (imperfect).  The  pistillate  varieties  are 
absolutely  worthless  for  forcing  purposes.  Even  with  some  that  are  classed  as 
perfect-flowered  varieties  the  pollen  is  very  meager  and  cannot  be  relied  upon 
for  very  early  forcing.  It  is  therefore  best  to  select  those  kinds  that  produce 
a  good  supply  of  pollen. 

Marshall  has  stood  the  test  for  many  years  as  an  ideal  forcing  berry  as 
regards  size,  excellent  color,  and,  above  all,  rich  flavor.  In  some  districts,  how- 
ever, it  is  not  very  robust,  and  in  some  localities  almost  a  failure.  But  where 
Marshall  can  be  grown  healthy  and  vigorous,  it  is  one  of  the  very  best  forcing 
berries  today,  especially  for  early  work. 

A  few  years  ago  I  secured  100  healthy  plants  of  an  English  variety  (Royal 
Sovereign),  which  would  have  been  a  valuable  addition  to  our  list,  but  unfor- 
tunately it  seems  impossible  to  grow  the  stock  satisfactorily  in  our  climate.  At 
least,  I  tried  and  failed.  Evidently  others  have  not  succeeded  any  better,  for 
I  have  not  been  able  to  secure  any  stock  of  it  since  then.  It  is  a  very  early, 
free  setting  variety,  with  large,  conical  fruit  and  excellent  color  and  flavor.  If 
healthy  and  vigorous  stock  of  Royal  Sovereign  could  be  grown,  I  believe  it  would 
be  one  of  the  very  best  for  forcing  under  glass. 

Sharpless,  while  not  grown  as  extensively  in  the  field  and  garden  as  in  former 
years,  is  still  a  good  old  standby  that  seems  peculiarly  adapted  to  indoor  work; 
it  will  seldom  refuse  to  bring  forth  an  abundant  crop  of  large  fruit.  The  photo- 
graph (see  page  181)  shows  its  make-up.  The  berries  will  ripen  e^•enIy 
when   under  glass,  which  is  not  always  the  case  when  grown  outside. 

William  Belt  has  made  many  friends  since  its  introduction  some  years  ago. 
It  is  a  vigorous,  healthy  grower,  and  free  cropper;  the  fruit  is  large,  with  solid 
flesh  and  good  color.  I  do  not  recommend  it  for  very  early  forcing,  but  if 
brought  into  heat  about  the  first  of  February,  the  returns  will  be  satisfactory. 

Nick  Ohmer  is  excellent  for  late  forcing,  especially  if  an  extra  large  berry 
is  wanted.  With  me,  it  has  never  failed  to  produce  berries  of  the  largest  size 
and  good  shape. 

Curiously  enough,  something  promising  will  sometimes  be  brought  to  our 
notice.  This  happened  to  me  in  the  early  part  of  August,  1909.  A  Mr.  Rose 
of  Red  Bank  offered  to  sell  me  a  Strawberry  for  forcing,  recommending  its 
qualities  and  behavior  in  the  open.  I  purchased  100  plants.  It  proved  an 
excellent  grower,  building  up  strong  crowns  before  the  Winter  set  in.  The 
plants  were  brought  into  heat  February  ist.     They  were  a  bit  slow  in  throwing 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


up  tlicir  blussoms,  but  after  that  their  progress  was  rapid,  and  I  gathered  some 
of  the  finest  berries  that  I  have  ever  seen,  solid,  perfect  in  shape,  color  and  flavor. 
I  cannot  find  a  single  fault.  The  general  habit  is  good  and  the  fruit  is  carried 
on  stout,  erect  stems.  While  two  or  three  fruits  will  ripen  up  in  the  pot  in  ad- 
\ance  of  the  others,  the  rest  come  along  in  time  for  gathering,  and  ripen  to 
perfection.  Nor  have  I  lost  a  single  fruit  through  damping.  Surplus  moisture 
has  nt)  chance  to  hang  on  it,  as  would  be  the  case  in  a  rough  berry.  It  goes 
under  tlie  name  of  Pride  of  Red  Bank. 

Varieties  for  forcing  purposes  can  be  highly  recommended  as  follows: 
Nhirshall  Win.   Belt  Nick  Ohmer  Sharpless  Pride  of  I-{e<i  Bank 

Tiiere  are  probably  many  other  varieties  that  could  adapt  themselves  to 
forcing,  but,  as  I  have  said,  it  is  not  necessary  to  have  a  long  list  for  the  purpose. 


THE   HOTHOUSE   PINEAPPLE 


CHAPTER  XXX 


THE    HOTHOUSE   PINEAPPLE 

Propagation — Culture  and  Feeding— Watering— Shading— Airing — 
Pot  System — Insects — Varieties 

OF  all  hothouse  fruit  the  Pineapple  is  perhaps  the  most  expensive  luxury. 
It  requires  at  all  times  a  fairly  brisk  heat,  and  is  a  bit  slow  in  giving 
returns.  About  twelve  months  from  the  time  the  suckers  are  planted 
elapse  before  the  fruit  is  ripe,  and  even  then  conditions  must  be  very  favorable. 
It  may  seem  strange  to  recommend  the  cultivation  of  Pineapple  under  glass, 
when  it  flourishes  in  our  Southern  States  without  the  assistance  of  artificial 
heat.  Fine  looking  specimens  come  to  our  Northern  markets,  a  visible  indica- 
tion of  the  wonderful  tropical  climate  of  the  South.  The  question  may  be 
asked:  Why  go  to  the  expense  of  growing  Pineapples  under  glass,  when  one 
section  of  our  country  has  an  ideal  climate  for  that  fruit.^  If  the  fruit,  as  it 
comes  up  North,  were  allowed  to  stay  upon  the  plant  until  perfectly  ripe,  it  would 
be  much  finer;  but  for  shipping  to  distant  markets,  it  must  be  gathered  in  a  stage 
of  ripening  to  suit  the  destination.  No  one  who  has  never  had  a  taste  of  a  hot- 
house Pineapple  can  realize  the  difference  between  the  Southern  product  and  our 
home-grown  hothouse  fruit.  There  really  is  no  comparison  between  them. 
The  Pineapple  is  improved  wonderfully  by  growing  under  glass.  In  any  estab- 
lishment where  fruit  is  made  a  specialty,  the  assortment  would  not  be  com- 
plete without  a  Pineapple  house.  Aside  from  the  pleasure  of  gathering  the 
luscious  fruit — no  such  specimens  could  be  purchased  in  the  open  market — it 
is  highly  interesting  to  watch  the  fruit  grow  and  develop. 

In  former  years  the  pot  system  was  generally  in  vogue,  although  this  in- 
volves much  more  work  than  planting  in  beds.  It  is,  moreover,  not  agreeable 
to  handle  the  plants  and  repot  them  when  they  get  large.  I  find  that  they 
make  a  more  satisfactory  growth  when  planted  out,  which  does  away  with 
extra  expense  of  repotting,  etc. 

A  suitable  house  is  necessary  for  the  successful  cultivation  of  Pineapple 
under  glass.  The  plants  will  thrive  much  better  if  placed  somewhat  near  the 
glass;  their  growth  will  then  be  more  stocky,  and  the  fruit  will  develop  better. 
Therefore,  a  very  high  structure  is  out  of  place;  nor  is  it  necessary  to  have  a 
wide  house.  The  proportions  should  be  such  that  during  the  Winter  months 
a  night  temperature  of  not  less  than  65     can   be  maintained  in  zero  weather. 


,92  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

Bottom  heat  is  absolutely  necessary.  The  l^est  house  is  a  span  roof  running 
either  east  and  west  or  north  and  south,  preferably  the  latter.  The  tempera- 
ture in  the  Winter  should  range  from  65°  minimum  to  75°  to  80  maximum. 
While  the  Pineapple  thrives  in  this  heat,  it  should  not  be  dry  or  fiery.  The 
plant  wants  a  moist,  humid  atmosphere,  and  will  then  make  a  clean,  healthy 
growth,  but  if  the  pipes  are  kept  extremely  hot,  drying  out  the  air,  then  we  may 
look  for  scale,  mealy  bug,  and  red  spider,  a  combination  not  at  all  agreeable. 
This  difTiculty  can  be  overcome  by  placing  a  large  system  of  pipes  in  a  house 
of  this  kind. 

A  house  fifteen  feet  wide  is  sufficient,  with  a  good  supply  both  of  bottom 
and  top  heat.  The  hot  water  system  is  the  best,  running  the  pipes  under  the 
beds  in  hollow  channels.  Have  the  tile  or  slate  over  these  pipes  about  one 
inch  apart,  so  that  the  heat  may  work  through;  then  put  six  inches  of  drainage 
before  the  soil  is  added,  with  about  one  foot  of  soil  above  this.  These  direc- 
tions apply  to  the  planting  out  in  the  bed,  which  is  the  most  successful  mode  of 
culture,  and  by  which  the  plants  make  a  stronger  and  much  quicker  growth. 
It  will  take  considerable  space  to  accommodate  a  number  of  plants,  for  they 
are  strong  growers  and  need  plenty  of  room.  If  much  space  is  to  be  devoted  to 
this  culture,  it  is  better  to  have  two  or  three  compartments,  bringing  the  fruit 
along  in  rotation.  Then  as  each  crop  begins  to  ripen  it  can  be  treated  according 
to  its  special  requirements.  These  include  a  drier  atmosphere  and  considerable 
more  dryness  at  the  roots.     I  will  explain  both  the  bed  and  the  pot  systems. 

The  first  consideration  is  proper  soil.  Heavy  soil  is  not  good.  While  the 
plants  will  make  headway  for  a  time,  the  effects  of  improper  soil  will  begin 
to  show  toward  the  Winter,  for  the  roots  are  liable  to  decay.  The  soil  should 
be  of  an  open  nature,  that  can  be  thoroughly  firmed  around  the  plants  and  yet 
remain  porous.  I  have  found  it  at  times  almost  impossible  to  procure  just 
the  right  kind.  If  not  naturally  porous  it  must  be  made  so.  I  have  seen  good 
results  obtained  with  a  mixture  of  loam  and  coal  ashes,  using  enough  of  the 
latter  to  keep  the  soil  open.  Charcoal,  coarse  sand  and  leaf  mold  are  also  good 
and  will  insure  perfect  drainage.  Very  fine  fruit  has  been  grown  in  a  sandy 
loam — but  improved  with  fibrous  sod  land  used  in  a  rough  state.  The  Pine- 
apple will  stand  a  rich  compost,  and  this  must  be  applied  if  extra  large  fruit 
is  desired.  Ammoniacal  manures  have  been  successfully  used,  especially  for 
a  luxurious  growth.  Peruvian  guano,  used  occasionally  in  an  evaporating 
pan,  will  create  a  certain  amount  of  ammonia  in  the  atmosphere,  which  is  taken 
up  by  the  foliage,  imparting  new  vigor  to  it. 

PROPAGATION 

The  Pineapple  may  be  easily  propagated,  and  there  are  different  methods 
of  doing  this.  The  most  general  and  satisfactory  way  of  increasing  stock  is 
by  the  use  of  suckers,  that  is,  young  shoots  which  come  away  from  the  base 
of  the  parent  plant.  Some  varieties  reproduce  more  stock  than  others.  The 
Queen  Pine  usually  puts  forth  a  great  number  of  suckers,  which  may  be  removed 
at  any  time  for  propagating  purposes,  although  if  left  until  quite  strong,  quicker 
progress  will  be  made  by  the  young  stock  to  follow.     Suckers  for  future  planting 


THE  HOTHOUSE  PINEAPPLE  193 

should  be  remo\ed  by  gently  twisting  tiiem  oft"  with  tlie  hand;  then  remove  a 
few  of  the  small  lea\es,  and  make  a  clean  cut  at  the  base  of  tiie  shoot,  wiiich 
is  now  ready  for  potting  up.  The  size  of  the  pot  depends  on  the  strength  of 
the  sucker.  Generally  a  three-inch  to  four-and-one-half-inch  pot  will  be  sufTi- 
cient.  It  will  root  readily  in  a  mixture  of  loam  and  sand,  within  two  or  three 
weeks,    if  kept  in  a  pinestove  temperature,    especially   if  there  is  also  bottom 


Pineapple  Qleen 

The   above   illustration    shows    a    portion    of  a  house  of   Pineapples  planted    in  a    bed  of  soil. 

Thus  treated,  they  undoubtedly  make  more  rapid  progress  than  when  grown  in  pots 

heat.  It  is  therefore  well  to  secure  the  young  stock  early  in  the  Spring,  while 
the  fires  are  still  running,  or  to  wait  until  the  fires  are  again  started  in  the  Fall. 
While  the  suckers  will  also  root  at  any  time  in  the  Summer  without  bottom 
heat,  the  stock  set  out  with  bottom  heat  will  root  more  quickly  and  will  come 
on  more  satisfactorily. 

One  thing  is  to  be  noted  here:  never  allow  the  plants  to  get  potbound  or 
stunted  in  any  way  before  planting.  A  stunted  Pineapple  is  practically  useless,  for 
it  would  make  an  attempt  to  fruit  before  being  strongenough  to  support  its  load. 


194  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

Stock  from  scarce  varieties,  or  from  those  tiiat  are  stubborn  m  sending  out 
suckers,  must  sometimes  be  obtained  by  otiier  means.  The  smooth-leaved 
Cayenne  is  not  nearly  so  prolific  in  offshoots  as  the  Queen.  Where  suckers 
are  not  plentiful,  good  plants  may  be  propagated  from  the  crowns  taken 
from  the  fruit,  although  these  are  not  equal  to  suckers,  nor  will  they 
make  as  rapid  a  growth;  or  by  gills,  which  are  offshoots  produced  at  the 
base  of  the  fruit,  but  these  make  even  slower  progress  than  crowns. 
The  two  latter  methods  are  therefore  only  resorted  to  when  stock  cannot 
be  produced  otherwise. 

There  are  still  other  ways  of  propagating  \cry  scarce  kinds.  The  old  plant 
may  be  pulled  up  after  the  fruit  is  cut,  stripped  of  its  foliage,  placed  in  a  shallow 
box  covered  with  some  light  material,  as  leaf  soil  and  sand  about  an  inch  thick, 
and  treated  to  a  brisk  bottom  heat;  the  dormant  eyes  will  then  start  up.  I 
have  seen  good  stock  produced  by  this  method.  In  general,  there  should  be 
little  difficulty  in  getting  a  good  supply  of  young  stock  at  all  times,  as  the  plant 
roots  readily  under  favorable  conditions,  with  plenty  of  heat  and  moisture. 
The  soil  in  the  pot  should  be  kept  on  the  dry  side. 

CULTURE  AND  FEEDING 

The  Pineapple  grower  must  absolutely  know  the  requirements  of  his  plants  and 
the  general  treatment  they  demand  throughout  the  year,  if  he  is  to  be  succe^s- 
ful.  I  have  said  that  top  and  bottom  heat  is  essential,  especially  during  t!.e 
Winter.  This  plant  cannot  endure  "cold  feet."  The  soil  around  the  roots 
should  be  as  warm  as  the  atmosphere  of  the  house.  The  most  rapid  growth 
is  made  from  Spring  until  Fall  and  more  moisture  is  needed  at  this  time.  The 
temperature  and  watering  are  important.  From  Spring  to  Fall  there  should  be 
70°  at  night  and  80°  to  85°  by  day,  with  a  moist,  humid  atmosphere.  During 
the  Winter  5°  less  may  be  maintained. 

In  the  planting  out  system,  wliich  I  rceoniniend,  a  compost  should  be  se- 
lected that  will  keep  porous,  and  will  not  turn  sour.  Pines  will  not  thrive  in 
a  stagnant  bed,  for  the  roots  will  decay.  When  the  root  action  is  good,  they 
will  take  a  fair  amount  of  feeding.  In  preparing  the  compost,  all  the  ingredi- 
ents that  are  mixed  in  with  the  soil  should  be  of  a  lasting  nature.  Blood  and 
bone  are  excellent  for  promoting  a  steady  growth.  Take  about  half  a  bushel 
to  an  ordinary  cartload  of  soil,  a  fairly  coarse  grade  of  bone,  with  a  light  sprink- 
ling of  wood  ashes.  Potash  is  necessary  in  the  soil  for  Pines.  The  compost 
should  not,  however,  be  made  over-rich,  for  a  surface  dressing  may  be  easily 
applied  after  the  plants  get  established  thoroughly. 

In  setting  out  the  stock  into  the  permanent  beds,  only  strong,  thrifty 
young  suckers  should  be  selected,  preferably  such  as  are  well  established  in  live- 
inch  or  six-inch  pots.  They  should  be  set  twenty-two  inches  apart,  as  they 
want  plenty  of  room  to  spread  out.  Firm  the  soil  thoroughly  around  the  young 
plant;  this  will  make  the  growth  more  substantial  and  stocky,  with 
roots  that  will  perform  their  work  and  are  nut  so  liable  to  decay  as  when 
growing    in    a    loose    soil. 


THE    HOTHOUSE    PINEAPPLE  ig5 

If  a  bed  of  this  kind  is  carefully  prepared  with  good  drainage,  a  couple  ol 
crops  may  be  gathered  before  renewing  the  soil  and  stock.  When  the  first 
crop  is  off,  a  strong  sucker  will  usually  come  away  at  the  base  of  the  old  plant; 
the  latter  can  then  be  cut  down  and  the  sucker  may  take  its  place.  If  a  por- 
tion of  the  surface  soil  is  now  removed  and  a  good  top  dressing  applied,  this 
sucker  will  make  rapid  headway,  and  another  crop  may  be  had  within  nine  or 
ten  months  if  all  goes  well.  But  it  depends  upon  circumstances.  If  root  action 
is  poor,  it  would  be  foll\-  to  make  the  attempt.  If  the  bed  is  in  good 
condition,  two  good  crops  may  be  gathered,  with  a  saving  in  time  and 
labor.  The  plants  should  be  sprayed  lightly  in  the  morning  and  again 
in  the  afternoon,  except  in  damp  or  very  cloudy  weather.  Do  not  spray 
while  they  are  in  flower. 

Feeding  requires  good  judgment.  The  plants  must  be  in  a  good,  strong 
condition  before  the  fruiting  stage  is  reached,  otherwise  they  cannot  bear  large 
fruit;  light  feeding  may,  therefore,  be  of  benefit  before  they  set  their  fruit, 
although  the  bulk  of  feeding  will  generally  be  done  while  the  fruit  is  developing. 
Excellent  results  are  obtained  by  the  use  of  blood  and  bone,  also  potash  and 
ammoniated  foods.  All  these  should  be  applied  with  a  view  to  building  up  the 
plant  and  bringing  the  fruit  to  the  highest  state  of  perfection.  Even  a  little 
nitrate  of  soda  may  be  used  to  good  advantage  when  the  fruit  is  swelling,  in  the 
proportion  of  a  small  tablespoonful  to  three  gallons  of  water,  and  applied  a  couple 
of  times  while  the  fruit  is  developing;  this  will  increase  the  weight  and  make 
for  perfect  finish.  Drainings  from  the  horse  stable  are  also  good,  if  so  diluted 
as  to  avoid  danger  of  burning  the  roots.  Quite  a  little  ammonia  may  be  ob- 
tained in  this  manner.  In  any  case,  this  treatment  seems  peculiarly  adapted 
to  the  Pine,  which  will  respond  freely  to  it,  if  everything  else  is  working  satis- 
factorily. But  it  will  avail  nothing  unless  root  action  is  perfect  at  all  times; 
with  sluggish  root  action  no  amount  of  food  will  do  any  good.  If  the  Pineapple 
plant  under  glass  is  checked  even  once,  and  loses  its  roots,  it  may  as  well  be 
cast  aside  and  a  fresh  start  made.  While  fruit  may  be  had  from  a  plant  that 
has  received  a  setback,  such  fruit  will  be  undersized,  poor  in  quality,  and  not 
worthy  the  name  of  hothouse  fruit.  But  if  the  compost  is  carefully  selected 
and  of  a  kind  that  will  not  readily  sour,  there  should  be  no  difficulty  in  pro- 
ducing a  fine  crop  under  glass.  There  is  no  outdoor  fruit  to  compare  with  the 
hothouse  Pineapple  as  a  dessert  delicacy;  but  if  it  is  treated  carelessly  in  the 
matter  of  watering  and  airing,  it  will  certainly  react  and  be  a  cause  of  disap- 
pointment. 

Top  dressing  is  of  importance  in  producing  active  roots.  The  same  material 
as  that  recommended  for  the  bed  should  be  given,  although  a  larger  quantity 
of  blood  and  bone  may  be  added.  When  first  planting  a  house  it  is  well  to  allow 
space  for  top  dressing  about  twice  during  the  season.  The  plants  will  show 
their  appreciation  of  such  treatment  within  about  a  week  by  sending  their  roots 
through  the  soil  with  new  energy  and  more  intense  color  to  the  foliage.  While 
plants  cannot  talk,  as  is  often  said,  their  actions  occasionally  speak  plainer  than 
words.  If  we  watch  plant  life  closely,  we  may  learn  many  valuable  lessons  from 
their  mute  behavior. 


196  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

WATERING 

Pines  thri\e  niucli  better  and  make  a  more  substantial  growtii  if  tiiey  are 
kept  on  the  dry  side;  they  will  not  endure  an  over-supply  of  moisture  at  the 
roots.  Yet  if  they  are  healthy,  especially  during  the  Summer  months,  when 
they  should  be  making  rapid  headway,  they  will  take  considerably  more  moist- 
ure than  when  in  poor  condition  for  want  of  the  necessary  bottom  heat  or  atmos- 
phere, or  both;  in  this  case  they  cannot  evaporate  any  large  quantity  of  moisture, 
and  too  much  of  it  then  will  favor  decay.  But  enough  water  should  be  given 
to  moisten  the  bed  from  top  to  bottom;  this  soaking  through  is  important, 
for  the  bottom  heat  will  absorb  moisture,  and  merely  a  light  watering  will  give 
a  moist  surtacc,  with  a  dry  bottom,  a  combination  that  is  by  no  means  satis- 
factory to  the  plant,  and  would  bar  e\entual  success.  Therefore,  water  thor- 
oughly once,  and  no  more  until  absolutely  necessary.  As  during  the  Winter 
the  plants  make  slower  progress  they  want  less  moisture  at  the  roots,  but  they 
will  withstand  a  good  supply  of  it  in  the  atmosphere,  in  the  way  of  dampening 
down  the  walls,  walks  and  all  corners.  Dry  corners  are  a  breeding  place  for 
undesirable  insects.  While  growth  is  less  active  in  the  short  days,  we  must 
remember  that  the  Pineapple  has  no  resting  period,  from  the  time  the  sucker 
is  planted  until  the  fruit  is  matured;  therefore,  it  should  not  be  allowed  to  get 
dried  out  to  the  extent  of  checking  the  growth.  Moreover,  during  the  Winter 
months  the  water  must  be  of  about  the  same  temperature  as  the  house;  there 
is  nothing  worse  than  to  apply  cold  water  either  to  the  roots  or  the  foliage  in 
the  Winter  months,  as  this  causes  a  chill. 


SHADING 

The  pineapplchouse  will  withstand  all  the  light  and  sun  it  can  get  during 
four  or  five  months  of  the  Winter,  but  from  Spring  until  Fall  it  must  have  a 
light  shade.  This  may  be  secured  either  with  roller  shades  or  by  painting  the 
glass  with  naphtha  and  white  lead,  just  enough  to  break  the  strong  rays  of  the 
sun;  otherwise  the  foliage  will  burn  and  cause  disfigurement,  with  serious  dam- 
age to  the  plant.  Watch  the  foliage  very  closely  in  Spring,  and  as  soon  as  it 
turns  a  bit  brown  the  shade  should  be  given.  Again  in  the  Fall  the  foliage  needs 
attention.  If  naphtha  and  white  lead  is  used,  it  should  be  removed  by  degrees, 
to  accustom  the  foliage  gradually  to  the  sunlight.  This  will  avoid  the  risk  of 
scalding  or  disfigurement,  that  would  remain  as  an  eyesore  all  through  the 
Winter,  aside  from  weakening  the  plant. 

FEEDING 

Feeding  will  depend  on  circumstances.  If  the  roots  are  lively,  more  food 
can  be  given,  which  will  increase  the  size  of  tiic  fruit.  Every  grower,  of  course, 
wants  fruit  of  the  largest  size,  and  this  can  be  obtained  only  by  perfect  root 
action  and  systematic  feeding.  Although  I  do  not  think  it  is  wise  to  use  much 
liquid  manure  from  the  farmyard,  yet  it  may  be  applied  a  couple  of  times  to 


THE    HOTHOUSE   PINEAPPLE 


1 
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1 

Pineapple  Smooth-Leaf  Cayenne 

A  fully  matured  Pineapple,  grown  under  glass.     This  fruit  is  wonderfully 

improved  by  hothouse  treatment 


,c,8  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

good  purpose;  chemicals,  also,  are  effective  and  keep  the  beds  in  an  open,  porous 
condition.  Ammoniated  manures  and  potash  promote  the  healthy  growth  of 
Pines.  Ichthemic  guano,  in  the  proportion  of  one  part  of  guano  to  ten  of  soil, 
may  be  applied  as  a  light  dressing  whenever  the  plants  are  in  need  of  water, 
for  it  is  best  to  water  this  in  as  soon  as  put  on.  Clay's  manure,  however,  is 
best  adapted  for  using  in  the  water,  a  small  handful  to  a  three-gallon  can  of 
water. 

AIRING 

Proper  airing  requires  good  judgment.  Carelessness  here  will  destroy 
otherwise  good  work,  particularly  in  the  Spring,  when  we  have  sharp,  cutting 
winds.  At  this  time  no  more  air  should  be  admitted  than  is  really  necessary. 
There  are  two  points  to  be  borne  in  mind  here:  in  the  first  place,  if  so  much  air 
is  admitted  as  to  lower  the  temperature  suddenly,  it  would  cause  a  severe  check; 
and  in  the  second  place,  it  would  cause  too  dry  an  atmosphere,  which  would 
not  be  agreeable  to  these  hothouse  plants.  The  best  plan  to  follow  is  to  admit 
a  crack  of  air  when  the  temperature  registers  78°  or  80°;  then  allow  it  grad- 
ually to  climb  up  to  85°  with  sun,  adding  a  trifle  more  air  if  necessary.  Keep 
the  house  in  a  fairly  steady  condition,  with  plenty  of  moisture  all  through  the 
growing  season,  or  until  the  fruit  begins  to  ripen,  when  a  drier  atmosphere  should 
be  maintained,  with  less  water  at  the  roots.  This  will  cause  a  much  richer 
flavor.  The  perfume  of  the  Pineapple  as  it  begins  to  ripen  is  very  pleasant. 
As  the  fruit  gets  colored  it  may  be  cut,  and  it  is  improved  by  being  hung  up 
in  the  house  for  a  day  or  two  before  using;  it  will  then  be  thoroughly  softened 
and  may  be  eaten  with  a  spoon.  It  will  be  found  full  of  rich  juice,  with  an 
exquisite  flavor,  which  must  be  tasted  to  be  appreciated. 

Stock  for  replanting  should  not  be  lost  sight  of.  Much  time  may  be  saved 
by  having  good,  thrifty  young  suckers  in  six-inch  pots  ready  to  replant  whenever 
the  old  plants  are  discarded.  Then  it  will  take  only  a  day  or  two  to  put  in  new 
soil,  allowing  a  day  more  for  it  to  warm  up  before  setting  in  the  new  plants. 

A  grower  following  the  methods  herein  described  may  be  reasonably  sure 
of  success,  for  we  have  an  ideal  climate  for  the  culture  of  Pines,  and  all  they 
need  at  our  hands  is  care  and  good  treatment. 

POT  SYSTEM 

More  Pines  have  probably  been  cultivated  under  the  pot  system  in  former 
years  than  in  any  other  way.  I  gained  my  first  experience  with  them  in  this 
way  and  with  the  same  climatic  conditions  under  which  I  was  working  then, 
I  should  prefer  it.  Climate  of  any  kind  certainly  has  a  wonderful  influence  upon 
plant  life,  even  though  it  be  under  a  glass  roof.  I  do  not  gainsay  the  advisa- 
bility of  confining  the  Pineapple  plants  to  pots  in  a  moist,  moderate  climate 
like  that  of  England,  where  at  times  very  little  fire  heat  is  needed,  especially 
in  the  south,  and  where  there  is  much  more  moisture  in  the  atmosphere,  as 
compared  with  the  American  climate.  What  applies  to  one  climate  may  there- 
fore not  be  suitable  to  another,  and  while  I  shall  indicate  the  methods  of  pot 


THE    HOTHOUSE    PINEAPPLE  igg 

culture,  I  do  not  hesitate  to  say  tliat  I  prefer  the  planting  out  here  in  our  drier 
atmosphere.  It  involves  less  trouble,  and  the  plants  will  make  a  quicker  and 
stronger  growth. 

The  instructions  as  to  soil,  perfect  drainage,  etc.,  given  for  bed  planting 
apply  also  to  pot  culture.  The  size  of  the  pots  should  be  taken  into  considera- 
tion. A  twelve-inch  pot  is  ample  for  the  final  shift,  or  what  is  generally  called 
the  fruiting  pot.  Nor  is  it  well  to  give  too  small  shifts,  as  the  potting  soil  is 
best  used  in  a  fairly  rough  state.  Repot  from  six-inch  to  nine-inch  and  from 
nine-inch  to  eleven-inch  or  twelve-inch,  thus  allowing  space  to  use  the  compost 
in  a  rough,  lumpy  state.  Firm  potting  is  essential,  and  the  watering  should  be 
done  carefully  until  the  roots  penetrate  through  the  new  compost.  Do  not 
pot  Pines  in  cold  soil — warm  it  up  first.  I  need  not  go  into  details  here  as  to 
feeding  and  general  culture,  for  what  is  good  for  the  Pine  in  the  bed  is  also  good 
for  the  Pine  in  the  pot.  The  latter  may  require  somewhat  more  feeding,  but 
otherwise  the  culture  is  the  same.  Bottom  heat  is  equally  essential  for  best 
results.  While  we  might  grow  a  few  Pines  in  one  end  of  a  plantstove,  without 
bottom  heat,  there  would  be  no  comparison  between  the  two.  The  same  shaped 
beds  as  recommended  for  planting  out  will  be  about  right  for  the  pot  system. 
Plunge  the  pots  into  some  light  material;  tanbark  is  excellent  and  will  keep 
wholesome  for  a  year,  and  the  slight  odor  given  off  by  the  bark  seems  agreeable 
to  the  pines.  The  most  important  point  to  bear  in  mind,  here  as  elsewhere, 
is  perfect  drainage.  The  pots  should  be  carefully  crocked,  so  as  to  ensure  a 
perfect  outlet  for  all  surplus  water,  particularly  when  transferring  to  the  fruit- 
ing pot,  for  the  plants  will  remain  in  these,  their  largest  pots,  for  a  long  time. 
If  a  Pineapple  plant  is  not  looking  happy,  the  cause  will  generally  be  found  in 
clogged  or  imperfect  drainage,  showing  plainly  the  importance  of  this  simple 
matter. 

INSECTS 

Insects  are  not,  as  a  rule,  \ery  troublesome  in  the  pinestoxe,  if  the  proper 
amount  of  moisture  has  been  maintained.  The  best  antidote  is  a  steady  tem- 
perature with  enough  moisture  to  keep  up  a  healthy  growth.  Very  curiously, 
scale  attacks  a  sickly  plant  in  preference  to  a  healthy  one.  But  in  any  case,  a 
sharp  watch  should  be  kept  for  any  insects  that  may  appear  and  means  should 
be  adopted  at  once  to  check  their  spread,  but  there  is  not  much  danger  of  this 
if  the  spray  or  syringe  is  used  effectively.  It  is  fortunate  that  this  is  so, 
for  the  pineapplehouse  when  the  plants  are  full-grown  is  more  like  a  little 
forest  than  a  collection  of  plants.  The  cheapest  way  and  the  one  best  for  the 
health  of  the  plants,  is  to  adopt  precautionary  measures,  even  though  the  plants 
be  clean.  I  have  found  a  weak  solution  of  whale  oil  soap  for  syringing  the 
foliage,  say  once  in  three  or  four  weeks,  admirably  effective  in  keeping  the 
foliage  clean  and  healthy:  a  piece  of  soap  about  the  size  of  an  egg  to  four  gal- 
lons of  water. 

Mealy  bug  should  be  watched  closely,  for  it  will  increase  very  rapidly  in 
the  pinestove  temperature.  It  works  its  way  around  the  axils  of  the  leaves  and 
then  into  the  fruit.     There  is  also  a  fine  scale  which  is  even  more  destructive 


200  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

than  mealy  bug  if  allowed  to  go  on  unchecked.  This  white  scale  usually 
appears  on  sickly  plants,  or  is  caused  by  too  dry  an  atmosphere,  or  the  two  to- 
gether favor  its  rapid  spread.  But  with  initiatory  methods  that  are  disagree- 
able to  insect  life  there  should  be  little  trouble  in  keeping  the  plants  free  from 
these  pests.  I^ed  spider  will  also  play  havoc  with  careless  management.  The 
best  way  to  fight  these  pests  is  never  to  allow  them  to  establish  themselves. 

A  good  preventive  against  mealy  bug,  red  spider,  etc.,  is  a  spray  once  in  a 
while  with  any  of  the  insecticides  recommended  for  that  purpose.  The  pine- 
stove,  to  be  successful,  must  be  kept  free  from  all  noxious  insects,  and  this  will 
be  an  easy  matter  if  taken  in  hand  in  time. 

VARIETIES 

Although  there  are  quite  a  number  of  varieties  under  cultivation,  it  is  not 
necessary  for  the  individual  grower  to  have  a  large  assortment.  About  half  a 
dozen  of  the  kinds  best  adapted  for  hothouse  work  is  sufficient.  The  stock  should 
also  be  selected  with  a  view  to  pot  or  bed  culture,  for  some  varieties  are  stub- 
born to  handle,  especially  when  the  foliage  gets  large.  Where  the  Pines  are 
planted  in  beds,  the  spiny  margin  of  the  leaf  does  not  matter  so  much  as  in 
potting,  but  it  is  not  very  pleasant  to  repot  a  plant  with  rough,  jaggy  foliage. 
However,  some  of  the  varieties  with  the  spiny  margin  leaf  are  excellent  for  fruit- 
ing  under   glass. 

One  of  the  best  for  pot  work  and  easiest  to  handle  is  Smooth-Leaf  Cayenne, 
which  is  very  fine  either  for  growing  in  pots  or  planting  out.  Unfortunately, 
it  is  very  shy  in  producing  stock,  often  refusing  to  throw  out  suckers.  But 
Queen  Pineapple  will  always  produce  an  abundance  of  excellent  stock.  Both 
of  these  kinds  have  been  grown  for  many  years,  and  are  still  as  good  as  any  for 
fruithouse  work. 

Charlotte  Rothschild  has  been  classed  as  an  extremely  large  Queen;  I  have 
known  it  to  produce  fruit  weighing  from  seven  to  ten  pounds  each.  Although 
it  bears  the  Rothschild  name,  its  history  is  somewhat  doubtful;  it  is  supposed 
to  have  originated  in  Baron  Rothschild's  garden  near  Paris. 

Lady  Beatrix  Lambton  is  a  variety  raised  at  Lambton  Castle,  Scotland, 
about  i860;  it  also  has  produced  some  very  large  fruit.  Mr.  Hunter,  while 
gardener  at  Lambton  Castle,  is  said  to  ha\e  picked  a  fruit  of  this  \aricty  weigh- 
ing over  eleven  pounds  ! 

The  following  list  gives  a  sufficient  assortment  and  may  be  relied  upon  for 
forcing  purposes:  Queen,  Smooth-Leaf  Cayenne,  Lady  Beatrix  Lambton, 
Charlotte  Rothschild,  En\  ille,  Lord  Carrington,  and  Black  Jamaica.  The  two 
best  among  these  are  Queen  and  Smooth-Leaf  Cayenne. 


VEGETABLES  UNDER  GLASS 


FORCING  OF  LETTUCE 


CHAPTER  XXXI 


VEGETABLES  UNDER  GLASS— FORCING  OF  LETTUCE 

Treatment  of  Lettuce  and  How  to  Keep  a  Constant  Supply — Soil  for 

Vegetable  House— Distance— Temperature— Airing— Feeding- 

Watering— Diseases — Varieties    of    Lettuce    for 

Growing    Under    Glass 

PROBABLY  all  establishments  make  provision  for  vegetables.  Where 
fruit  is  grown  out  of  season,  there  will  also  be  accommodations  for 
the  Winter  crop  of  vegetables,  which  are  just  as  essential  as  the  fruit. 
The  two  crops  will  work  in  harmony,  and  no  establishment  is  complete  unless 
it  can  produce  a  liberal  supply  of  vegetables  at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  There 
is  always  a  brisk  demand  for  these  products  of  the  soil  and  commercial  groweis 
have  long  since  undertaken  to  satisfy  it  all  the  year  round.  During  the  past 
few  years  mammoth  houses  have  been  built  for  this  purpose.  Fifteen  or  twenty 
years  ago  such  structures  would  have  been  considered  mere  folly.  I  am  not 
in  a  position  to  state  the  exact  increase  in  this  line  of  hothouse  work,  but  I  know 
that  its  growth  has  been  phenomenal,  a  convincing  proof  that  the  consumers' 
•demands  yearly  grow  larger  and  larger.  While  the  Northern  grov\er  has  to 
compete  with  the  Southern  outdoor  product,  the  latter  cannot  compare  in  qual- 
ity with  that  emanating  from  houses  especially  built  for  the  purpose. 

I  do  not  class  vegetables  as  a  luxury,  but  rather  as  a  necessity  of  life,  and  it 
is  not  an  expensive  undertaking  to  grow  them.  The  requirements  in  fuel  are 
trifling  when  compared  with  those  of  many  of  our  exotic  houses,  the  temperatures 
needed  being  entirely  difl'erent.  Much  credit  is  due  to  the  commercial  grower 
for  advancing  and  popularizing  the  indoor  product,  which  is  sent  to  the  open 
market  where  the  consumer  may  see  and  appreciate  its  standard  of  excellence. 
Private  establishments  have  probably  been  growing  vegetables  and  salads  ever 
since  greenhouses  came  into  use,  but  these  are  not,  as  a  rule,  sent  to  market. 
This  private  industry,  therefore,  has  had  little  effect  in  educating  consumers  in 
general  to  appreciate  the  hothouse  product.  Artificial  market  gardening  brings 
in  fair  returns,  aside  from  providing  steady  labor  for  a  large  number  of  hands. 
Many  years  ago  it  was  thought  necessary  to  have  the  salad  growing  up  near  the 
glass,  but  we  now  know  from  experience  that  some  of  the  best  results  are  ob- 
tained in  the  enormous  houses  built  especially  for  the  purpose  of  vegetable 
.culture. 


204  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

In  making  preparations  for  growing  vegetables  under  glass,  each  grower 
will  be  governed  by  the  circumstances  peculiar  to  his  case.  If  a  commercial 
enterprise  is  intended,  the  greater  returns  will  come  with  the  larger  house;  but 
for  private  purposes  the  man  in  charge  will  probably  know  best  the  needs  of  the 
table  he  is  to  supply.  Some  families  will  require  more  salads  than  others,  and 
when  the  necessary  vegetables  are  scarce  they  seemingly  consume  to  the  limit. 

Whatever  style  of  house  is  contemplated,  let  it  be  a  light  one,  with  plenty 
of  sun  from  morning  till  night.  A  location  of  this  kind  is  necessary  in  order  to 
produce  good  vegetables  and  salads.  Some  of  the  old-style  houses,  with  enough 
lumber  in  them  to  build  an  ordinary  dwelling,  have  more  than  half  of  their  sun 
shut  off  in  the  short  days,  by  woodwork  and  rafters.  Most  of  these  have,  for- 
tunately, now  passed  along  the  way  of  things  that  have  outlived  their  useful- 
ness, and  more  suitable  structures  are  reared  at  the  present  day. 

Great  credit  is  due,  as  I  have  already  said,  to  the  different  growers  for  im- 
proving the  varieties.  Take  Lettuce,  for  instance:  I  do  not  think  that  I  am 
overstepping  the  mark  when  I  say  that  it  is  now  forced  by  the  millions  as  com- 
pared with  thousands  a  few  years  ago.  This  huge  expansion  may  be  explained 
by  the  fact  that  the  improvement  in  greenhouse  construction,  with  the  increased 
and  better  facilities,  has  stimulated  the  growers  to  improve  their  products 
correspondmgh'. 

Vegetables  have  been  grown  in  every  conceivable  kind  of  structure — leanto, 
three-quarter  span,  span  roof,  and  years  ago  the  sunken  greenhouse  or  pit 
was  much  in  vogue.  The  most  satisfactory  house,  however,  for  the  forcing 
season  through,  is  a  span  roof  about  twenty  feet  wide  and  fifty  or  more 
feet  long,  according  to  the  requirements.  A  vegetable  house  may  run  east 
and  west  or  north  and  south;  the  latter  is  preferable,  as  it  gives  more  even 
sunlight  on  each  side.  But  where  the  location  demands  it,  the  house  may 
run  east  and  west  without  detriment  to  the  stock,  if  judgment  is  used  in 
planting.  Tall  vegetables,  such  as  Tomatoes,  etc.,  may  be  planted  in  rows 
crosswise  of  the  house,  thus  allowing  the  sun  to  shine  between,  which  will 
help  to  firm  up  the  growth. 

There  is  quite  a  variety  of  vegetables  that  will  respond  to  indoor  culture. 
The  staples,  which  I  may  call  the  bread-and-butter  kinds,  are  Lettuce,  Cucum- 
bers, Tomatoes,  Radishes  and  Mushrooms.  Years  ago  a  large  part  of  the 
vegetables  produced  under  glass  was  grown  on  raised  benches,  and  even  now 
this  is  an  excellent  way  during  the  short  days  of  Winter  for  Tomatoes,  Cucum- 
bers, Beans  and  the  like,  or  what  I  may  call  warm-blooded  vegetables.  While 
we  may  see  all  kinds  of  vegetables  growing  and  flourishing  together  in  the  open 
garden,  it  is  better  in  the  hothouse  to  keep  the  cold-blooded  kinds  apart.  Let- 
tuce, Cauliflower  and  Radishes  thrive  splendidly  together,  and  solid  beds 
are  without  question  the  best  for  them.  They  will  feel  more  at  home 
in  such  a  location,  and  both  Lettuce  and  Cauliflower  will  be  much  larger 
and  in  every  way  of  better  quality,  and,  above  all,  a  quick  growth  will  be 
obtained. 

I  shall  take  up  each  variety  separately,  giving  prominence  to  those  kinds 
that  are  in  most  general  demand. 


FORCING  OF  LETTUCE  205 

More  space  is  probably  devoted  to  Lettuce  today  than  to  any  other  vege- 
table or  salad.  There  is  always  a  heavy  demand  for  it  in  every  month  of  the 
year,  and  the  hothouse  produce  is  generally  away  ahead  of  salad  grown  in  the 
garden  or  open  field,  especially  when  grown  in  solid  beds.  The  private  gar- 
dener knows  well  enough  how  important  it  is  to  have  always  a  full  supply  on 
hand.  The  general  public  also  has  been  educated  to  appreciate  the  value  of 
this  health-giving  green  all  the  year  round.  Another  thing  in  favor  of  the  grower 
is,  that  the  returns  are  quick,  as  three  or  four  crops  may  be  gathered  from  a 
house  during  the  forcing  season. 

TREATMENT  OF   LETTUCE  AND  HOW  TO  KEEP  A  CONSTANT  SUPPLY 

Proper  soil  plays  an  important  part  in  the  successful  culture  of  Lettuce. 
When  growing  this  crop  in  the  open,  we  find  that  it  thrives  splendidly  in  a  rich 
sandy  soil  with  good  drainage.  While  it  will  withstand  much  moisture  at  the 
roots,  good  drainage  is  necessary.  If  grown  in  solid  beds,  it  does  not  often 
require  water.  Sometimes  the  surface  will  appear  dry,  but  on  close  examina- 
tion plenty  of  moisture  will  be  found  below.  This  will  encourage  root  action 
to  penetrate  down,  whereas  watering  often  will  keep  the  surface  wet  and  en- 
courage surface  roots.  With  Lettuce  we  prefer  to  have  the  roots  work  down, 
for  then  we  shall  have  a  strong,  vigorous  growth,  that  will  stand  by  the  plant 
until  maturity.  Rich,  open,  porous  soil  that  will  make  Lettuce  grow  well  in 
the  garden  will  do  the  same  in  the  house.  Quick  growth  is  essential  in  Lettuce, 
and  this  cannot  be  had  on  impoverished  soil. 

SOIL  FOR  VEGETABLE  HOUSE 

For  a  vegetable  house  with  solid  beds  ten  inches  or  a  foot  of  rich  soil  is 
none  too  much,  provided  there  is  perfect  drainage  below.  A  good  coat  of  farm- 
yard manure,  thoroughly  decayed  if  possible,  seems  to  suit  the  requirements 
of  vegetables.  I  do  not  approve  of  green  manure  for  an  indoor  crop.  A  light 
coat  of  wood  -ashes,  according  to  the  nature  of  the  soil,  may  be  sowed  on  the 
surface  just  before  planting  time.  Wood  ashes  is,  in  fact,  good  for  all  green- 
house vegetables. 

The  greenhouse  Lettuce  crop  should  come  in  about  the  time  when  the 
outdoor  supply  is  cut  down  by  frost,  which  will  occur  any  time  from  the  middle 
of  October  to  the  first  of  November,  within  a  radius  of  about  200  miles  of  New 
^'ork  City.  Preparations  should  therefore  be  made  to  have  the  supply  about 
ready  at  that  time.  In  many  private  establishments  vegetables  in  frames 
take  the  place  of  the  outdoor  product  for  at  least  a  month  or  six  weeks.  Ex- 
cellent Lettuce  can  be  produced  in  this  way,  until  severe  freezing  sets  in,  when 
it  is  less  troublesome  to  rely  on  the  greenhouse  product.  Lettuce  for  framework 
should  be  sowed  about  the  end  of  August;  then,  if  everything  goes  well,  the  first 
crop  should  be  ready  for  use  about  the  first  of  November.  The  seed  may  be 
sown  in  flats,  and  for  early  planting  frames  are  convenient  to  bring  them  along. 
Later  on  the  lettucehouse  can  furnish  the  supply  for  the  Winter. 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


FORCING  OF  LETTUCE  207 

Before  sowing  Lettuce,  give  tiie  soil  a  good  watering.  Tlie  seed  should 
be  covered,  according  to  the  old  reliable  method — putting  on  soil  twice  tiie 
thickness  of  the  seed.  The  smaller  the  seed,  the  less  soil  will  be  necessary. 
I  believe  that  mucii  good  seed  has  been  ruined  by  placing  it  too  deep 
in    the    soil. 

Transplant  the  seedlings  when  they  are  large  enough  to  handle  and  before 
they  become  in  any  way  drawn.  Place  them  three  or  four  inches  apart,  and 
in  sufficient  quantity  to  satisfy  the  demand.  They  may  be  transplanted  into 
flats,  or  a  bed  prepared  for  the  purpose  if  a  large  quantity  is  required,  in  about 
three  or  four  weeks,  according  to  the  season.  In  early  Fall  they  will  make  quicker 
headway  than  in  Midwinter.  This  work  should  be  done  in  any  case  when  they 
have  grown  into  nice,  thrifty  young  plants,  and  before  they  crowd  into  each 
other.  This  transplanting  will  induce  a  plentiful  supply  of  roots.  When 
they  are  transplanted  into  their  permanent  bed  for  maturity,  they  may 
be  lifted  with  considerable  soil  adhering  to  the  roots,  and  as  a  result  they 
will  grow  away  without  a  check.  It  is  not  necessary  to  have  the  seedling 
bed  of  quite  as  rich  a  compost  as  the  permanent  bed.  If  the  soil  is  made 
over-rich  for  seed  beds,  the  roots  at  that  stage  are  not  in  condition  to  with- 
stand such  treatment. 

From  the  time  the  first  batch  of  Lettuce  matures,  whether  produced  in  the 
frame  or  the  vegetable  house,  there  should  be  a  continuous  supply  Irom  the  first 
of  No\-ember  until  March,  or  later  if  necessary.  This  may  be  easily  accom- 
plished, with  sufficient  space  at  command,  by  sowing  seed  about  every  ten 
days.  These  subsequent  plantings  are  treated  exactly  like  the  first.  I  would 
recommend  the  following  as  a  good  method  for  attaining- this  greatly  desired 
result — a  steady  supply.  Every  grower  has  probably  some  plan  as  to  the  space 
he  will  devote  to  his  Lettuce,  or  to  any  other  kind  of  vegetable.  I  think  it 
well  to  ha\e  some  definite  idea — w^hat  I  might  call  a  kind  of  schedule — as  to  the 
apportioning  of  space. 

Granted  that  we  have  decided  on  our  Lettuce  plot,  we  will  divide  it  into 
four  parts,  or  in  other  words,  make  four  plantings,  each  about  ten  days  apart. 
When  the  space  is  filled,  the  lot  first  planted  will  be  about  gathered,  and  there 
will  be  plants  to  follow  along  in  rotation,  which  will  give  a  steady  supply  all 
through  the  Winter.  The  amount  that  can  be  produced  under  glass  is  remark- 
able, when  crops  are  made  to  follow  each  other  through  the  forcing  season. 
Whether  the  vegetable  house  is  twenty-five  feet  long  or  two  hundred  feet,  with 
system  we  can  have  our  four  crops  or  sixteen  plantings  altogether,  or  more  if 
we  have  nice  plants  ready  to  replace  the  crop  just  gathered. 

It  will  not  be  necessary  to  add  manure  for  each  crop,  if  a  good  coat  was 
added  in  the  Fall  just  before  setting  the  first  crop.  In  preparing  the  beds  for 
permanent  planting  a  couple  of  inches  of  manure  may  be  dug  in  thoroughly. 
Decayed  manure  from  the  horse  stable  is  good  for  this  purpose,  digging  the  beds 
at  least  a  foot  deep.  This  coat  should  be  sufficient  to  carry  the  crops  through 
the  season,  but  a  light  sprinkling  of  wood  ashes  for  each  crop  planted  would 
not  be  amiss,  if  scattered  on  before  preparing  the  bed  for  replanting.  The  ashes 
will  then   be  well   incorporated  with  the  soil. 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


Most  Lettuce  grown  under  glass  is  probably  head  Lettuce  of  the  Boston 
Market  type.  Some  varieties  of  tliis  are  somewhat  stronger  growing  than 
others.  May  King,  for  instance,  which  does  exceedingly  well  under  glass,  re- 
quires to  be  planted  nine  inches  apart  each  way,  but  for  most  other  head  Let- 
tuce eight  inches  each  way  is  about  right.  Have  the  beds  moist  when  planting 
or  just  in  a  friable  condition.  Where  the  loose-headed  type  is  grown,  such  as 
Grand  Rapids,  a  space  of  ten  inches  each  way  may  be  allowed.  Grand  Rapids 
will  also  thrive  better  in  a  somewhat  heavier  soil;  at  least,  heavier  heads  can  be 
grown  in  such  soil.  There  is  apparently  more  demand  for  head  Lettuce  m  the 
\'icinity  of  New  \'ork  than  for  anything  else. 

TEMPERATURES 

There  may  be  a  difference  of  opinion  among  growers  as  to  temperatures 
for  Lettuce.  Undoubtedly,  if  it  is  kept  around  50°  at  night  and  correspond- 
ingly high  in  the  day,  it  will  mature  somewhat  quicker.  But  Lettuce  forced 
to  the  extreme  will  be  of  poor  grade,  and  the  gain  in  time  is  offset  by  loss  in 
quality,  color  and  weight.  As  it  is  the  high  grade  article  that  is  most  in  demand, 
I  cannot  see  the  advantage  of  severe  forcing,  and  I  do  not  recommend  it,  for 
several  reasons.  In  the  first  place,  the  plants  are  more  liable  to  go  wrong,  and  in 
the  second  place,  few  people  want  those  soft,  loose  heads.  Where  Nature  is 
allowed  to  do  her  work,  we  find  Lettuce  in  its  full  glory,  that  is,  when  the  nights 
are  cool  and  the  days  around  60  .  Then  why  advocate  a  warm  night  tem- 
perature? When  Lettuce  is  brought  along  in  a  comparatively  low  night  tempera- 
ture, particularly  when  it  begins  to  head  up,  its  progress  will  be  rapid.  This 
is  a  clear  enough  indication  that  cool  nights  are  agreeable  both  to  the  health 
and  the  vigor  of  the  plant.  Each  grower  must,  however,  use  his  own  best  judg- 
ment. When  the  weather  is  bright  and  clear,  rather  than  have  a  setback,  it 
will  do  no  harm  to  allow  about  65°,  with  a  fair  amount  of  air  on;  but  on  a  dark, 
cloudy  day  tliis  would  be  a  serious  error.  I  consider  a  reliable  Lettuce  tem- 
perature about  40°  to  45°  by  night,  with  a  rise  of  10  to  15  during  the  day, 
according  to  the  weather. 


Airing  is  an  important  factor  in  a  successful  Lettuce  crop,  for  it  is  naturally 
a  fresh  air  plant,  and  cannot  withstand  a  close,  humid  atmosphere.  It  is  well 
to  leave  a  crack  of  air  on  both  day  and  night,  at  least  until  the  frost  sets  in. 
Such  treatment  will  make  the  plants  more  thrifty  and  less  subject  to  disease. 
Careless  airing  is  one  of  the  first  causes  of  failure,  for  while  Lettuce  is  not  es- 
pecially sensitive  to  cold  blasts  when  growing  in  the  open,  it  will  not  withstand 
careless  treatment  under  glass.  The  great  secret  of  success  is  to  grow  it  along 
without  a  check,  from  the  time  the  seed  is  sown  until  it  is  ready  for  cutting. 
The  result  of  careless  airing  is,  a  check  and  other  troubles,  as  disease,  green  fly, 


FORCING  OF  LETTUCE  209 

etc.,  will  lollow.  Airing  should  always  be  done  by  degrees,  not  admitting  too 
much  at  once.  Growers  should  bear  in  mind  that  the  temperature  for  an\- 
plant  should  be  changed  gradually,  both  in  the  morning  when  increasing  and 
at  night  when  reducing  it.  Air  should  never  be  admitted  to  the  extent  of  lower- 
ing the  temperature  suddenly.  It  is  poor  policy  to  allow  the  temperature  to 
rise  more  than  five  degrees  over  night  before  increasing  the  air.  There  should 
be  a  steady  rise  with  a  steady  increase  of  air.  This  suggestion,  of  course,  refers 
to  the  Winter  temperature.  In  the  early  Fall  and  again  in  the  Spring  quite  a 
bit  of  air  should  be  left  on  all  the  time.  Good  growers  know  the  importance 
of  carefully  regulating  the  ventilators.  The  inexperienced  should  study  this 
matter  until  they  have  mastered  it,  for  the  welfare  of  the  plant  depends  largely 
on  it.  At  times  airing  seems  like  a  nuisance,  but  it  is  one  of  those  troublesome 
things  that  we  cannot  afford  to  neglect. 

FEEDING 

It  is  not  necessary  to  feed  a  Lettuce  crop  much  if  the  soil  in  the  bed  is  well 
supplied  with  manure;  but  if  the  soil  needs  any  assistance,  this  may  be  given 
between  crops,  for  it  is  not  easy  to  feed  a  growing  crop.  Nitrate  of  soda,  how- 
ever, is  good  to  give  as  the  Lettuce  is  beginning  to  head,  for  it  will  increase  the 
size  and  hasten  maturity.  The  most  effective  w^ay  of  using  the  soda  is  in  water 
in  the  proportion  of  a  tablespoonful  to  three  gallons.  Give  the  plants  a  moderate 
watering  with  this,  keeping  it  off  the  foliage  as  much  as  possible.  Do  not  use 
the  nitrate  of  soda  when  the  soil  is  dry.  It  is  better  to  give  the  bed  a  moderate 
watering  first,  allow^ing  this  to  settle,  and  then  give  the  soda  on  the  following 
day.  This  applies  where  Lettuce  is  grown  on  a  moderate  scale,  but  where  it 
is  grown  in  wholesale  quantities,  the  soda  may  be  sprinkled  in  between  the 
rows  and  then  watered  in;  considerable  labor  will  be  saved  in  this  way.  But 
in  whichever  way  it  is  given,  a  moderate  amount  of  soda  is  excellent. 

WATERING 

The  ad\antage  of  solid  beds  becomes  apparent  in  watering,  for  they  do 
not  require  water  \-ery  often,  especiallj'  after  the  crop  is  well  established.  When 
water  is  needed  give  a  thorough  watering  and  then  no  more  until  necessarj-.  A 
thorough  soaking  when  the  plants  begin  to  head  will  help  to  increase  the  size 
and  assist  the  heading.  A  good  drenching  at  this  stage  is  usually  sufficient 
to  finish  up  the  crop.  No  set  rules  can  be  laid  down  in  this  matter,  however,  as 
much  depends  on  the  nature  of  the  soil.  Some  soils  take  considerably  more 
water  than  others.  As  a  general  rule,  when  the  soil  gets  dry,  water  must  be 
applied. 

DISEASES 

Lettuce  is  unfortunately  subject  more  or  less  to  disease.  Much  has  been 
written  on  this  question  and  considerable  advice  gi\en.  The  Lettuce  disease 
has  been  called  sunburn,   but  this  term  is  misleading,  as  the  disease  spreads 


2,0  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

more  rapidly  in  cloudy  weatlicr  than  when  it  is  clear.  I  am  inclined  to  at- 
tribute it  to  poor  root  action,  or  cold,  imperl'ect  drainage,  or  lack  of  free  ven- 
tilation, each  of  which,  singly  or  combined,  will  bring  on  this  dreaded  disease. 
I  will  not  attempt  to  give  anj-  remedy  or  cure  for  it;  the  best  suggestion  I  can 
make  is,  to  give  all  the  fresh  air  possible  and  have  the  foliage  dry  over  night. 
When  badly  infected,  it  is  not  worth  while  to  waste  any  time  over  the  plants, 
but  just  pull  them  up  and  start  afresh.  Here,  again,  the  grower  must  make 
preparations  for  a  clean  start,  or  the  trouble  will  be  likely  to  reappear  with  the 
new  crop. 

When  this  fungus  once  gets  into  the  beds,  measures  must  be  taken  to  eradi- 
cate it.  A  grower  with  the  necessary  equipment,  or  having  a  steam  plant  instead 
of  the  hot  water  system,  can  sterilize  the  soil  and  thus  kill  all  the  fungous  growth, 
Have  a  series  of  perforated  pipes  buried  in  the  beds  and  attached  to  the  steam 
system.  Let  the  holes  be  about  one  foot  apart,  and  of  a  size  in  accordance  with 
the  steam  pressure.  Cover  the  bed  with  some  close  mateual,  as  canvas,  before 
beginning  to  steam  it.  Place  enough  pipes  in  the  soil  to  heat  it  up  to  near  200°. 
Establishments  not  equipped  with  steam  must  adopt  other  methods.  In  a 
bad  case  of  infection  remove  about  an  inch  of  the  surface  soil  and  replace  it 
with  fresh  soil,  adding  a  light  coat  of  air-slaked  lime.  But  with  a  compost 
that  is  free  and  open,  which  induces  free  root  action,  there  should  be  little  cause 
for  disease. 

Another  thing  to  guard  against  is  the  destruction  caused  by  aphis.  Lettuce 
will  absolutely  refuse  to  grow  when  infested  with  green  fly.  Various  methods 
may  be  adopted  to  fight  this  insect.  The  very  best  plan  is,  not  to  wait  until 
the  plants  get  infested,  but  to  take  precautionary  measures  at  the  right  time. 
There  are  several  good  fumigating  materials  that  are  excellent  for  destroying 
insect  life.  Any  one  of  these  used  in  a  mild  form  before  the  fly  appears  is  de- 
cidedly better  than  waitii.g  until  it  is  there.  There  is  nothing  so  efTecti\e  in 
eradicating  insect  life  as  hydrocyanic  gas.  If  this  is  used  once  or  twice  while 
the  Lettuce  is  still  young,  or  before  it  begins  to  head,  there  will  be  no  trouble 
with  lly  afterward,  for  it  certainly  makes  clean  work  with  the  fly,  without 
harm  to  the  growing  crop.  Hydrocyanic  acid  gas  is  one  of  the  most  simple 
remedies,  and,  abo\c  all,  one  of  the  most  economical.  It  is  death  to  the  fly, 
even  in  a  very  mild  form.  In  using  it,  however,  we  must  remember  that  we  are 
dealing  with  a  deadly  poison,  and  it  should  be  treated  as  such  at  all  times;  but 
there  is  absolutely  no  danger  when  it  is  handled  carefully.  A  close  house  is 
necessary;  the  gas  will  escape  if  there  is  any  outlet,  either  above  or  below  grade. 
If  there  is  an\  hole  where  the  pipes  enter  the  house,  as  is  often  the  case,  this 
should  be  iilled  up  with  leaves  or  anything  else  that  will  hold  back  the  gas. 
The  cyanide  of  potassium  can  be  purchased  of  different  strengths,  up  to  ()8%. 
The  kind  I  have  always  used  is  50  fuse  or  $0%  pure,  using  one-half  ounce 
to  every  1000  cubic  feet  of  space.  Earthenware  receptacles  must  be  used; 
two  will  be  sufTicient  for  a  house  fifty  feet  by  twenty  feet.  Place  them  at  an 
equal  distance  apart,  and  have  the  jars  considerably  larger  than  necessary  to 
hold  the  material.  Gallon  jars  are  not  any  too  large.  The  operation  seems  so 
simple  and  withal  so  clfectix  e,  that  it  is  strange  that  this  gas  is  not  more  generally 


FORCING  OF  LETTUCE  211 

used.  People  are  perhaps  sh\  about  liandling  this  poison  until  they  ha\e  used 
it  a  few  times,  alter  \\  hich  they  will  admit  it  to  be  one  of  the  simplest  of  fumi- 
gating materials.  It  is  merely  a  question  of  knowing  the  proper  strength  for 
destroying  insect  life.  Anyone  who  has  not  had  experience  with  this  gas  should 
experiment  with  a  very  weak  application  at  first,  gradually  increasing  the 
strength  until  satisfactory  results  are  obtained.  The  foliage  must  be  dry  when 
the  gas  is  used,  and  choose  a  calm  night.  The  first  operation  w  ill  in\ oK  e  a  little 
more  trouble,  on  account  of  the  preliminaries.  First  <  f  all  we  must  compute 
the  cubic  content  of  the  house.     Then,  if  two  or  more  receptacles  arc  required. 


Ideal  Lettuce 


ill  be 
large  1 


Lettuce  Ide.^l 
cellent  fur  growing  through  the  short  days.     Although 
t  is  quick  to  mature  and  produces  solid  heads 


the  cyanide  must  be  divided  into  equal  parts,  and  each  package  tied  in  tissue 
paper.  There  must  be  enough  water  and  sulphuric  acid  in  the  jars  to  just 
cover  the  cyanide,  or  one  pint  of  water  and  one-half  pint  of  sulphuric  acid  for 
two  or  three  ounces  of  cyanide.  Get  the  best  commercial  acid.  When  every- 
thing is  ready  and  the  house  closed  up  tight,  pour  first  the  water  into  the  jar  and 
then  the  sulphuric  acid,  then  drop  in  the  cyanide,  starting  at  the  far  end  and 
working  toward  the  door.  Merely  drop  in  the  poison  and  get  out  as  quick  as 
you  can,  not  waiting  to  see  whether  it  is  beginning  to  boil  up  or  not.     Then 


212  FRflTS    AND    VEGETABI.es    UNDER    GLASS 

lock  tlic  door  and  keep  the  house  closed  up  tight  for  about  an  hour,  or  witli  mild 
fumigation  it  may  remain  closed  all  night.  It  would  be  well  to  ha\e  the  cyanide 
broken  u|)  in  small  pieces  before  using  it. 

\  ARIETIES  OF   LETTUCE  FOR  GROWING  UNDER  GLASS 

There  is  quite  an  assortment  of  Lettuce  that  will  submit  to  the  forcing 
process,  but  those  varieties  should  be  selected  that  will  head  up  quickly,  such  as 
the  Boston  Market  type,  or  May  King.  While  the  latter  requires  more  space 
than  some  of  the  other  head  Lettuce,  yet  perfect  heads  can  be  produced  under 
glass. 

The  following  varieties  will  all  respond  to  indoor  treatment:  Boston  Market, 
Rawson's  Hothouse,  Rawson's  Crumpled  Leaf,  May  King,  Golden  Queen, 
Ideal,  Hittinger's  Forcing,  Glasshouse  and  Big  Boston.  Loose-headed  \ariety: 
Grand  Rapids,  an  excellent  forcer  and  shipper. 

This  list  is  sufficient  for  all  practical  purposes,  and  includes  probably  more 
names  than  the  average  grower  will  need.  Each  may  choose  that  which  he 
prefers,  for  they  are  afl  adapted  to  the  forcing  process  and  good  results  may  be 
obtained  from  all  with  proper  treatment. 


CAULIFLOWER 


CHAPTER  XXXII 

CAULIFLOWER 
Watering  and  Feeding — Varieties 


CAULIFLOWER  requires  exactly  the  same  treatment  as  Lettuce  in  regard 
to  temperature  and  solid  beds,  but  it  will  be  decidedly  improved  by 
a  heavier  soil.  If  grown  in  a  soil  tiiat  is  in  any  way  light,  the  heads 
will  be  light,  and  the  plants  are  also  likely  to  be  troubled  with  clubroot;  when 
this  once  sets  in  it  is  difficult  to  overcome,  and,  in  any  case,  it  limits  the  produce 
to  very  small  heads,  or  what  are  termed  "  buttons,"  not  worthy  the  name  of 
Cauliflower.  The  soil  should  be  a  fairly  heavy  loam,  with  good  drainage,  and 
well  enriched  with  thoroughly  decayed  farmyard  manure.  During  the  season 
of  growth  the  plants  should  be  well  fed  with  food  rich  in  nitrogen.  I  do  not 
know  of  any  vegetable  that  is  more  improved  by  nitrate  of  soda  than  the  Cauli- 
flower. Give  a  couple  of  applications,  the  last  just  as  the  plants  begin  to  head 
up.  Nitrate  of  soda  seems  to  impart  color  and  vigor,  with  extra  weight  of  head, 
provided  there  are  other  stimulants  in  the  soil  agreeable  to  a  steady  growth. 

Cauliflower  under  glass  proves  a  successful  crop,  if  planted  in  a  good,  rich 
loam,  as  there  is  no  disease  to  trouble  it,  with  the  exception  of  clubroot,  brought 
about  by  too  light  a  soil  or  a  check.  As  a  preventive  against  green  fly  the  plants 
may  be  liberally  sprayed  at  any  time;  plentiful  moisture  in  the  foliage  is  more- 
over beneficial.  Under  these  conditions  the  grower  need  not  worry  over  insect 
life. 

This  vegetable  grown  under  glass  is  an  immense  improvement  on  the  outdoor 
product,  and  it  is  all  the  more  appreciated  for  coming  along  during  the  short 
days.  It  should  appeal  to  all  private  establishments  as  a  Winter  forcing  vege- 
table. While  it  may  be  held  over  quite  a  while  in  frames  after  the  frost  has 
cut  down  the  outdoor  supply,  yet  there  should  be  pro\ision  for  at  least  one  or 
two  crops  in  the  vegetable  house. 

In  making  preparations  for  Winter  Cauliflower,  one  important  item  should 
be  borne  in  mind,  namely,  that  from  the  time  the  seed  is  sown  until  the  crop 
is  ready  for  gathering,  it  must  not  receive  a  check,  either  by  want  of  water  or 
lack  of  anything  else  necessary  for  its  growth.  This  holds  good  particularly 
in  the  early  stages,  so  as  to  avoid  premature  heading,  for  such  a  crop  is  small 
and  of  poor  quality  and  practically  worthless.  It  is  not  advisable  to  make  too 
early  a  start,  or  to  plant  in  the  house  until  the  nights  have  become  fairly  cool. 


FRUIIS    AND    \'F.GETAB[.ES    UNDER    GLASS 


^^.1_  .ff 


Cm  lit  LOWER  Snowbm  I 

A  glimpse  of  a  crop  very  nearly  ready  for  use,  growing  in  solid  beds,  where  they  feel  more  : 

home   than   on    raised   benches 


CAULIFLOWER  215 

for  Cauliflower  cannot  withstand  any  great  iieat.  In  any  case  tlie  results  will 
not  he  the  same  as  those  obtained  with  a  normal  temperature.  Let  the  weather 
conditions  govern  the  first  sowing;  this  is  usually  safe  from  the  first  to  the  middle 
of  September.  The  seed  may  be  sown  in  a  flat  or  in  a  coldframe.  When  the 
young  plants  are  large  enough  to  handle,  transplant  four  or  five  inches  apart 
into  frames;  if  the  crop  is  intended  for  private  use,  where  only  fifty  to  one  hun- 
dred plants  are  needed,  they  may  be  transplanted  into  flats.  As  they  get  estab- 
lished, and  have  grown  a  good  supply  of  roots,  they  may  be  transplanted  into 
their  permanent  bed,  sixteen  or  eighteen  inches  apart  each  way.  Here  again 
preparations  should  be  made  for  a  steady  supply.  Seed  may  be  sown  in  suc- 
cession about  three  weeks  after  the  first  sowing,  or  three  or  four  plantings  may 
be  made  about  three  weeks  apart,  if  the  space  permits.  If  the  seed  is  started 
in  September,  the  plants  should  be  ready  for  cutting  some  time  in  December, 
that  is,  if  they  recei\"e  good  treatment  and  are  kept  in  a  fairly  cool.  Lettuce 
temperature. 

Cauliflower  may  be  planted  in  a  bed  from  which  a  crop  has  just  been  cleared. 
Much  time  may  be  saved  by  having  young  plants  ready  in  five-inch  pots  to 
set  in  the  place  of  the  last  batch;  but  these  plants  must  not  be  allowed  to  get 
potbound,  for  when  once  the  growth  is  checked  that  crop  may  be  regarded  as 
a  failure.  After  the  plants  are  set  out  and  established,  cultivating  the  surface 
soil  will  promote  a  healthy,  robust  growth.  Every  gardener  knows  the  value 
of  surface  cultivation  in  open  air  beds,  especially  after  rain,  when  the  soil  will 
work  freely.  The  same  applies  to  inside  culture.  Stir  the  soil  after  the  plants 
have  received  a  good  watering.  This  will  act  as  a  mulch,  prexenting  too  rapid 
evaporation  and  keeping  the  soil  sweet  and  wholesome. 

WATERING  AND  FEEDING 

Cauliflower  requires  an  abundance  of  water  at  all  stages  of  its  growth, 
taking  much  more  than  Lettuce.  Spra>-  the  foliage  two  or  three  times  a  day 
unless  it  is  very  damp  outside,  for  then  spraying  is  of  no  benefit  at  all.  As  to 
feeding,  I  think  it  is  much  better  to  feed  light  and  often,  rather  than  give  too 
much  at  one  time,  and  more  food  can  be  applied  to  good  advantage  in  this  way. 
Overfeeding  is  worse  for  the  health  of  any  plant  than  no  food  at  all.  Cauli- 
flower wants  food  rich  in  nitrogen,  but  it  is  not  necessary  nor  even  wise  to 
depend  on  one  manure  alone.  Potash  may  be  used  in  the  shape  of  hardwood 
ashes,  which  will  give  color  and  substance  to  the  crop.  Begin  to  feed  when 
the  plants  are  thoroughly  established,  or  quite  a  while  before  they 
begin  to  head.  Try  to  build  up  a  good,  strong,  thrifty  growth  before 
the  plants  show  any  sign  of  heading,  for  such  growth  is  necessary 
in  order  to  obtain  good-sized  heads.  Cow  manure  in  a  liquid  form  is 
excellent,  and  may  be  applied  two  or  three  times.  Supplement  this 
with  nitrate  of  soda,  used  either  in  the  water  or  sown  over  the  surface 
and  then  watered  in.  Remember  that  soda  is  a  powerful  chemical  and 
must  be  used  with  judgment;  while  a  little  of  it  is  excellent,  an  overdose 
acts    as    a    poison.     A    safe    proportion    is   a    tablespoonful    to    a    three-gallon 


2,6  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

can  of  water,  and  about  the  same  strength  if  sown  on  the  surface.  Cauli- 
flower readily  responds  to  a  couple  of  applications  of  soda. 

I  have  occasionally  heard  objections  to  extra  large  heads  of  Cauliflower, 
as  being  coarse,  and  this  is  true  if  they  are  left  on  too  long;  but  if  we  can  produce 
size  while  the  plant  is  still  young  and  tender,  then  we  have  both  quality  and 
size  combined.  The  heads  should  be  cut  when  quite  solid.  If  a  leaf  is  turned 
over  as  the  heads  begin  to  develop,  to  prevent  the  sun  from  striking  into  it,  we 
get,  not  a  bluish,  but  a  snow-white  head. 

The  most  destructive  insect  is  perhaps  the  caterpillar.  In  early  Fall  we 
often  see  white  butterflies  busy  among  the  plants,  depositing  their  eggs  on  the 
under  side  of  the  leaves;  in  a  short  time  these  develop  into  a  small  green  worm, 
which  must  be  destroyed  either  with  a  dusting  of  slug  shot,  or  removal  by  hand 
before  much  damage  is  done  to  the  foliage.  Later  in  the  Winter  the  moths 
will  not  be  active,  and  there  will  be  no  other  insects  to  bother. 

VARIETIES 


The  Early  Erfurt  strain  and  the  Early  Snowball  are  the  best  for  growing 
under  glass.  The  following  four  will  give  good  satisfaction:  Extra  Early  Dwarf 
Erfurt,  Early  Snowball,  First  and  Best,  and  Gilt  Edge.  Some  people  object 
to  Cauliflower  when  grown  in  the  open,  as  it  is  at  times  a  bit  strong,  but  this 
disagreeable  feature  disappears  when  it  is  grown  under  glass.  Greenhouse 
Cauliflower  may  rightly  be  classed  as  one  of  the  choicest  vegetables  for  table 
use. 


CHAPTER   XXXIII 


RADISHES 


A  CONSIDERABLE  quantity  of  Radishes  is  forced  every  Winter  botii  for 
the  market  and  for  private  use.  As  a  commercial  enterprise  and  with 
good  demand,  quick  returns  may  he  reahzed,  for  two  crops  may  be 
gathered  to  one  of  Lettuce.  Different  methods  have  been  recommended  from 
time  to  time  for  producing  Radishes  under  gLass.  They  may  be  grown  as  a 
catch  crop,  sown  between  other  growing  crops,  such  as  Lettuce,  Cauliflower, 
etc.,  for  they  are  ready  to  gather  before  the  others  are  nearly  matured.  Many 
growers  probably  follow  this  plan,  especially  where  the  space  is  limited.  But 
I  do  not  approve  of  such  mixed  planting.  In  the  first  place,  if  each  vegetable 
is  growing  in  its  own  allotted  space,  the  house  will  have  a  neater  appearance; 
and  while  a  few  dollars  may  seemingly  be  saved  by  this  double  cropping,  yet  it 
will  be  at  the  expense  of  quality,  for  a  crop  that  is  allowed  free  scope  will  natur- 
ally develop  better.  I  think  that  one  good  crop  is  preferable  to  two  medium 
ones.  In  greenhouse  culture  the  aim  should  be  a  perfect  product.  If  mixed 
crops  are  grown  in  a  garden  we  easily  attribute  any  failure  to  climatic  con- 
ditions, but  the  grower  under  glass  has  no  such  excuse,  although  he  also  is  de- 
pendent on  the  sun  during  the  Winter  to  firm  up  his  crop. 

Better  Radishes  can  be  produced  in  solid  beds  than  on  raised  benches.  A 
Lettuce  temperature  is  ideal  for  Radishes,  and  a  suitable  soil  liberally  supplied 
with  thoroughly  decayed  farmyard  manure  will  promote  rapid  growth.  Rad- 
ishes will  grow  satisfactorily  in  Lettuce  soil,  though  it  may  be  a  bit  more  sandy, 
and  if  rich  in  manure  a  much  quicker  growth  will  be  obtained  and  roots  more 
uniform  in  size.  The  soil  must  be  free  from  insects  or  worms  that  eat  into 
the  roots.  I  am  a  strong  advocate  of  hard,  unleached  wood  ashes  for  all  vege- 
tables, particularly  root  crops.  If  these  ashes  are  properly  applied,  there  should 
be  no  occasion  to  complain  of  worms  destroying  the  plants.  Aside  from  keep- 
ing the  insects  in  check,  the  ashes  also  improve  the  Radishes. 

Radishes  may  be  sown  broadcast  or  in  drills,  preferably  the  latter,  as  it 
is  much  easier  to  keep  them  clean.  For  an  indoor  crop  the  best  seed  obtainable 
should  be  sown.  Radish  seed,  when  purchased,  usually  does  not  run  even, 
but  has  a  percentage  of  small  seed,  which  will  produce  only  small,  inferior  roots. 
Better  results  may  be  obtained  if  the  smallest  seed  is  separated  by  means  of  a 
fine  screen;  this  will  give  an  average  strength  of  seed.  With  seed  of  high  quality 
and  germinating  power  it  is  not  necessary-  to  sow  it  so  thick,  for  nearly  every 


■i8 


FKUITS    AND    \FGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


seed  may  then  be  counted  upon  to  respond.  In  this  \\;i>,  also,  considerai)le 
time   will   be  saved    in   tiiinning. 

An  important  factor  in  Radisli  culture  is  the  selection  of  \arieties  that  are 
quick  to  mature,  with  got)d  a\'erage-sized  roots  and  not  too  much  foliage.  Any 
\ariety  possessmg  these  qualities  may  be  used  for  forcing.  Radishes  may  be 
sown  in  drills  six  or  seven  inches  apart,  and  about  one  inch  apart  in  the  rows. 
I  ha\e  seen  Radishes  left  fairly  thick  in  rows  and  not  pulled  until  they  are  large 
enough  for  use,  but  in  that  case  the  quality  will  not  be  of  the  best,  and  the  roots 
are  liable  to  be  old  before  the\  are  full  grown.  The  roots  should  be  given  full 
room  for  quick  growth  and  free  expansion.  If  they  are  permitted  to  remain 
in  the  soil  alter  a  certain  stage,  they  get  pithy  and  unfit  for  table  use. 

For  a  steady  supply  for  the  table,  seed  should  be  sown  every  week  or  ten 
days,  in  sufficient  quantity  to  supply  the  demand.  Radishes  may  also  be  sown 
in  a  seedbed  and  then  transplanted.  They  will  stand  this  treatment  readil\-. 
I  lia\e  grown  them  in  this  way,  but  1  ha\e  come  to  the  conclusion  that  the  most 
satisfactory  method  is  to  sow  the  best  seed  obtainable  in  drills. 

Radishes  may  be  kept  fairly  moist  from  the  time  the  seed  is  sown  until 
maturity.  They  should  be  gathered  at  the  proper  stage  of  development,  or 
while  the  roots  are  brittle  and  tender. 

VARIETIES 


The  following  varieties  are  excellent  for  forcing:  Early  Scarlet  Forcing, 
Farly  Carmine,  Scarlet  Globe,  Non  Plus  Ultra  and  French  Breakfast.  These 
can  be  relied  upon,  but  others  may  be  added  if  necessary,  to  suit  indi\idual 
tastes. 


CHAPTER   XXXIV 


TOMATOES 

Planting    and    Training — Watering    and    Feeding — Temperatures    and 
Airing — Setting  the    Fruit — Tomatoes    as   a  Catch    Crop — Prepara- 
tions FOR  Spring  Crop— Insects  and  Fungous  Diseases — Varieties 

WE  come  now  to  a  class  ol'  \egctables  that  require  a  warmer  atmos- 
phere, and  in  roliowing  cultural  directions  for  this  crop  the  grower 
should  be  governed  b.\-  the  season.  For  a  Spring  or  early  Summer 
crop  solid  beds  are  excellent.  When  the  lettucehouse  is  beginning  to  get  too 
warm  for  its  own  crop,  nice  thrifty  Tomato  plants,  which  have  been  grown  in 
four-inch  or  five-inch  pots,  may  be  planted  in  the  beds,  where  they  will  pro- 
duce an  excellent  crop  until  the  outdoor  product  comes  into  season.  The  adapta- 
bility of  Tomatoes  for  forcing  purposes  has  been  known  for  years,  and  it  is 
today  one  of  the  main  Winter  staple  crops  under  glass,  both  for  the  market 
and  for  private  purposes.  As  a  forced  vegetable  (or  fruit)  the  Tomato  is  pecu- 
liarly responsive  to  glass  culture,  bearing  heavy  crops  of  well-developed  fruit, 
generally  of  better  quality  than  can  be  grown  in  the  open  field  or  garden,  unless 
the  season  for  the  latter  is  unusually  favorable — that  is,  comparatively  dry; 
the  fruit  is  then  more  solid  and  firm.  When  grown  under  glass,  the  conditions 
can  therefore  be  created  that  will  give  the  best  results.  Aside  from  the  ad- 
vantage of  having  fresh  fruit  always  at  command,  it  is  interesting  to  watch 
their  development  through  the  Winter  months,  the  vines  loaded  down  with  their 
weight  of  fruit  when  everything  outside  is  dormant. 

Tomatoes  are  not  difficult  to  handle  under  glass  at  any  season.  Of  course, 
they  will  need  much  closer  attention  during  the  short  days  than  on  toward 
Spring  and  early  Summer.  I  may  as  well,  therefore,  confine  my  remarks  to 
Winter  treatment.  There  is  no  difficulty,  as  a  rule,  in  obtaining  a  rapid,  luxu- 
riant growth,  but  this  is  often  more  harmful  than  beneficial.  Strong,  thrifty 
vines  are  of  great  importance,  but  do  not  lose  sight  of  the  fact  that  we  must  also 
have  a  short-jointed,  firm  growth,  rather  than  a  soft,  rapid  development  of 
vine  and  foliage.  All  plant  life  is,  of  course,  benefited  by  a  certain  amount  of 
nitrogen  in  the  soil,  but  it  should  be  used  sparingly  with  Tomatoes,  or  we  may 
get  a  rank  growth  at  the  expense  of  fruit.  Combined  with  the  proper  treatment, 
potash  and  phosphoric  acid  are  two  important  elements  in  building  up  the  vines 
with  the  view  to  a  plentiful  supply  of  fruit,  as  I  shall  explain  later. 


220  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

The  first  requisite  to  be  considered  is  a  suitable  iiouse.  The  Tomato  re- 
quires an  abundance  of  sunlight,  and  any  attempt  to  produce  a  satisfactory 
Winter  crop  without  this  will  be  but  a  partial  success.  Tomatoes  may  be  grown 
successfully  in  any  house  during  the  Winter,  if  situated  so  as  to  get  full  benefit 
of  the  sun.  It  may  be  either  a  leanto,  three-quarter  span  or  span  roof.  Most 
of  the  houses  erected  now,  however,  are  of  the  even  span  type,  and,  taking  every- 
thing into  consideration,  this  is  the  best  for  both  Winter  and  Summer  Tomatoes. 
The  house  may  run  either  east  and  west  or  north  and  south;  if  the  former,  the 
plants  are  best  set  in  rows  crosswise  north  and  south,  thus  allowing  the  sun  to 
penetrate  between  the  rows.  Raised  benches  give  the  best  results  during  the 
\\  mter  months,  for  the  soil  will  be  warmer  and  the  root  action  more  lively;  the 
beds  will  dry  out  oftener,  and  hence  more  feeding  can  be  done.  With  outdoor 
crops  the  most  prolific  are  generally  obtained  from  medium,  open  soil,  neither 
heavy  nor  too  sandy — what  I  may  call  a  medium  loam.  This  is  excellent  also 
for  the  indoor  beds,  especially  if  secured  from  land  where  no  vegetables  have  been 
growing  before.  Tomato  compost  may  be  prepared  about  a  month  before  it  is 
needed.  To  three  or  four  loads  of  soil  add  one  load  of  well-decayed  manure, 
with  bonemeal  in  the  proportion  of  about  a  bushel  to  three  wagon  loads 
of  soil.  This  should  be  sufficient  to  support  the  plants  until  they  com- 
mence to  bear  fruit,  when  food  may  again  be  applied,  according  to  the 
condition  of  the  \ines. 

The  plants  should  be  started  so  as  to  obtain  a  good  set  of  fruit  before  the 
dark,  short  days  of  Winter  come — say  by  the  end  of  October.  The  seed  nia>  be 
sown  any  time  from  the  first  to  the  middle  of  August  in  a  pan  or  flat,  according 
to  the  number  of  plants  required.  When  large  enough,  transplant  into  other 
flats  or  into  a  prepared  bed,  or  they  may  be  potted  into  thumbpots  and  kept 
growing  in  pots  up  to  four  or  five  inches  before  being  set  in  their  fruiting  quar- 
ters. This  system  may  require  a  little  more  labor,  but  if  the  young  plants  are 
well  cared  for  and  kept  thrifty  and  stocky,  they  will  more  than  repay  for  it 
when  set  in  the  beds,  and  thrive  much  more  satisfactorily. 

PLANTING  AND  TRAINING 

Soil  four  or  five  inches  deep,  on  raised  benches,  is  sufficient  to  produce  a 
heavy  crop,  with  systematic  feeding.  Before  planting,  it  is  well  to  consider 
the  mode  of  training  to  be  followed.  For  indoor  culture  the  single  stem  system 
is  to  be  preferred,  especially  for  Winter  forcing.  The  plants  may  be  set  in  rows 
eighteen  inches  apart,  leaving  about  two  and  one-half  feet  between  the  rows. 
Have  a  wire  running  parallel  with  the  rows,  about  five  feet  above  the  bench. 
Then,  as  the  plants  need  support,  they  can  be  stayed  with  six-foot  wire  rose 
stakes  secured  to  the  wire  above.  This  arrangement  will  give  a  steady  sup- 
port, with  very  little  trouble.  Pinch  off  the  side  shoots  as  the  plants  put  them 
forth,  leaving  but  the  one  main  shoot.  If  grown  in  this  manner,  they  must  be 
kept  stocky  and  short-jointed,  and  to  facilitate  this,  the  soil  in  the  benches 
should  be  thoroughly  firmed  down  after  planting.  This  is  best  done  when 
it   is  on  the  dry  side,  or  just  before  the  plants  need  water. 


WATERING  AND  FEEDING 

Better  results  will  be  obtained  through  the  Winter  by  keeping  the  plants 
slightly  on  the  dry  side.  The  best  plan  to  follow  is  to  give  a  thorough  watering 
when  needed  and  no  more  until  absolutely  necessary.  The  Tomato  benches 
will  often  be  dry  on  the  surface,  but  so  long  as  the  foliage  stands  out  boldly  and 
seemingly  full  of  sap,  we  can  rest  assured  the  plants  are  not  suffering  for  want 
of  moisture.  It  would,  however,  be  a  serious  error  to  allow  them  to  lack  mois- 
ture at  the  roots.  I  also  believe  in  growing  them  in  a  fairly  dry,  bracing  atmos- 
phere, as  there  is  not  much  insect  life  to  bother  the  vines,  except  white  fly,  which 
can  be  easily  eradicated  with  hydrocyanic  acid  gas.  Tomato  vines  do  not  need 
spraying  from  the  time  they'  are  planted  until  through  fruiting;  then  the 
vines  are  pulled  out  and  replaced  wdth  young  stock  if  necessary. 

The  feeding  will  depend  on  the  weight  of  the  fruit  on  the  \ines.  With  seed 
sown  early  in  August,  when  everything  has  gone  well  there  should  be  a  heav\ 
crop  of  fruit  by  the  end  of  October  or  early  in  November — fruit  that  will  ripen 
through  December  and  January,  and  perhaps  February.  Apply  food  when  there 
is  a  good  set  of  young  fruit  on  the  vines;  but  it  is  far  better  to  feed  light  and  often 
than  to  give  too  much  at  one  time.  Tomato  roots  are  easily  damaged,  but 
when  they  get  accustomed  to  feeding,  the  strength  of  the  application  can  be 
gradually  increased.  The  main  food  should,  however,  be  given  for  fruit  develop- 
ment and  firming  up  the  wood.  Potash  and  phosphoric  acid  or  a  good  grade 
of  Peruvian  guano  will  afford  good  stimulation.  But  remember  that  the  true 
Peruvian  guano  is  powerful  and  should  be  used  sparingly.  In  many  cases  a 
change  of  food  is  better  than  use  of  the  same  material  time  after  time.  Even  a 
watering  with  liquid  manure  from  the  farm  once  or  twice  will  not  prove  amiss. 
Feeding  depends  largely  on  conditions.  If  the  plants  are  in  any  way  soft, 
it  would  be  a  mistake  to  use  liquid  manure;  bonemeal  is  far  better,  or  anything 
of  that  nature  which  will  firm  the  growth,  and  at  the  same  time  assist  the  develop- 
ment and  increase  the  weight  of  the  fruit.  Wonderful  results  may  be  obtained 
by  systematic  feeding  at  the  proper  time.  The  weather  must  also  be  consulted. 
Feeding  is  of  no  advantage  in  a  long  spell  of  dark,  cloudy  days,  for  it  will  then 
encourage  too  rank  a  growth,  and  this  must  be  a\oided.  Many  growers  err 
more  or  less,  at  times,  in  overfeeding,  and  great  harm  may  be  thus  done.  I 
have  learnt  from  many  years  of  experience  that  it  is  better  to  feed  light  and 
often.  Top  dressing  seems  to  put  new  life  and  energ\'  into  the  vines.  Room 
should  be  left  for  about  an  inch  of  new  soil,  to  be  applied  after  the  vines  have  a 
liberal  set  of  fruit.  This  will  assist  the  development  and  encourage  root  action, 
especially  if  a  seven-inch  pot  full  of  Ichthemic  guano  per  wheelbarrow  load 
of  soil  is  added,  with  a  sprinkling  of  bonemeal. 

TEMPERATURES  AND  AIRING 

Proper  regulation  of  temperature  and  airing  may  seem  a  simple  matter, 
and  such  it  is  to  the  skilled  grower,  but  carelessness  in  these  points  will  coun- 
teract all  otherwise  good  work.     The  Tomato  vine,  as  I  have  said,  must  make  a 


221  FRUITS    AND    \EGETABLIiS    UNDER    GLASS 

firm,  solid  fiiowth,  and  while  this  may  be  induced  by  the  proper  food,  proper 
temperature  and  \entilation  are  also  of  assistance  in  bringing  about  the  desired 
results.      ihe  one  is  just  as  important  as  the  other. 

Tomatoes  may  be  classed  as  a  warm-blooded  \egetable  and  need  a  certain 
amount  of  heat  to  keep  them  growing  in  a  thrifty  condition,  but,  like  all  other 
plants,  they  want  an  abundance  of  fresh  air.  If  kept  in  a  close,  humid  atmos- 
phere, the  most  liberal  feeding  will  not  prevent  them  from  producing  long-jointed, 
soft  growth,  and  the  same  will  happen  if  they  are  kept  too  warm  both  day  and 
night.  While  a  temperature  of  65°  by  night  and  correspondingly  higher  by  day 
will  induce  a  much  quicker  growth,  the  crop  will  fall  short  in  weight,  size,  solidity 
and  color.  High  temperatures,  furthermore,  are  favorable  to  mildew  and  many 
other  diseases  that  attack  the  Tomato  vine.  A  steady  Winter  temperature 
of  60°  by  night  and  -0°  or  75°  with  sun  by  day,  with  a  fair  portion  of  air  on, 
is  sufTicient;  nothing  is  gained  by  having  it  higher.  As  the  temperature  ad- 
vances in  the  morning,  or  when  the  thermometer  registers  6s°,  admit  a  crack 
of  air,  and  increase  steadily  as  the  mercury  goes  up.  It  is  a  serious  mistake 
to  wait  until  the  house  gets  overheated  and  then  open  the  vents  all  at  once.  No 
good  results  can  be  expected  with  such  treatment.  The  temperature  and  airing 
require  thought  and  good  judgment.  In  the  Fall,  when  the  nights  are  getting 
a  bit  cold,  it  is  much  better  to  send  a  little  heat  through  the  pipes  and  leave  a 
crack  of  air  on.  Closing  down  tight  all  the  time  without  some  fire  heat, 
would  cause  the  humidity  in  the  house  to  condense  and  fall  on  the  foliage,  in- 
ducing mildew  and  other  diseases;  and  if  this  trouble  once  makes  headway, 
it  is  difficult  to  eradicate.  Careful  adjustment  of  the  ventilators,  with  a  steady 
temperature  and  a  fairly  dry,  bracing  atmosphere,  will  be  found  the  best  means 
of  guarding  against  the  diseases  that  the  Tomato  under  glass  is  subject  to. 

SETTING  THE  FRUIT 

In  order  to  secure  a  good  set  of  fruit,  it  is  necessar\  to  pollinate  the  blos- 
soms; tills  is  a  simple  operation,  but  it  must  be  attended  to  faithfully.  Im- 
perfectly set  fruit  will  not  develop  satisfactorily;  it  will  be  either  deformed,  or 
will  refuse  absolutel\  to  swell.  When  the  blossoms  are  ready  for  pollinating, 
in  a  dry,  bracing  atmosphere,  merely  a  gentle  tap  should  dislodge  the  pollen. 
There  are  different  methods  in  use.  I  prefer  to  tap  the  vine  lightly  with  one 
hand,  catching  the  pollen  on  my  finger,  and  then  bringing  the  pistil  gently  in 
touch  with  it;  in  this  way  all  the  blossoms  can  be  gone  over  rapidly.  The  main 
point  is,  to  have  the  pollen  dry,  so  that  it  will  distribute  itself  freely.  About 
noon  on  a  bright  day  is  the  time  most  suitable  for  the  operation.  Blossoms 
treated  then  will  swell  away  more  rapidly.  Toward  Spring,  when  the  days 
lengthen  and  the  sun  becomes  more  powerful,  these  precautions  are  not  so  neces- 
sary, and  a  light  tapping  of  the  vines  is  sufficient.  Here,  again,  there  is  a  decided 
advantage  in  having  a  firm,  stocky  growth,  for  such  vines  will  produce  a  plentiful 
supply  of  pollen,  and  there  will  be  no  difficulty  in  obtaining  a  heavy  set  of  fruit; 
whereas  if  the  blossoms  are  weak,  on  soft,  long-jointed  vines,  there  will  be  very 
little  pollen  to  work  with.     Such  conditions  are  most  discouraging. 


TO    ROCHFORD 


I  Midwinter  crop  growing  on  i 
healthful  vegetable  is  greatl 


^ed  benches.      During  the  short  da 
appreciated 


224  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

TOMATOES  AS  A  CATCH  CROP 

There  are  many  pri\ate  establishments  that  do  not  set  aside  a  special 
house  for  this  important  crop.  A  batch  may  very  well  be  grown  in  any  other 
house  where  a  suitable  temperature  can  be  maintained,  with  full  sunlight.  I 
have  seen  excellent  Tomatoes  grown  in  bo.xes  about  eight  inches  wide,  six  inches 
deep  and  long  enough  to  accommodate  three  or  four  plants.  They  may  even 
be  grown  along  in  pots,  up  to  eleven  or  twelve  inches  for  fruiting,  and  quite 
a  good  crop  may  be  had  in  this  way.  Tomatoes  can  be  highly  recommended 
for  this  mode  of  culture.  A  rosehouse  temperature  is  excellent.  The  only 
difference  in  treatment,  especially  with  the  pot  plants,  is  that  they  require 
perhaps  a  little  more  food. 

PREPARATIONS  FOR  SPRING  CROP 

When  growing  Tomatoes  by  the  single  stem  system,  plants  that  have  been 
cropping  during  the  late  Fall  and  Winter  are  about  played  out  by  the  end  of 
February.  Young  plants  in  four-  or  five-inch  pots  should  therefore  be  ready 
to  replace  the  old  ones;  these  may  be  obtained  either  from  cuttings  or  from 
seed.  I  decidedly  prefer  the  latter,  for  the  seedlings  seem  to  grow  more  evenly. 
In  order  to  have  these  young  plants  ready  by  the  end  of  February  or  the  first 
of  March,  the  seed  should  be  sown  in  January,  for  their  progress  is  slow  in  the 
Winter  months.  Keep  the  plants  near  the  glass,  to  keep  them  from  becoming 
spindly.  It  is  also  advisable  to  replenish  the  soil  on  a  raised  bench,  as  the  roots 
from  the  old  vines  will  have  penetrated  through.  While  fairly  good  fruit  may 
be  grown  by  working  some  manure  into  the  old  beds  before  planting  again,  yet 
a  finer  crop  will  be  assured  by  renewing  the  soil.  For  a  Spring  crop,  however, 
solid  beds  can  be  relied  upon  to  yield  a  heavy  crop.  Tomatoes  planted  in  solid 
beds  from  the  Spring  onward  will  not  require  the  same  close  attention  as  those 
produced  on  raised  benches.  Such  conditions  are  ideal  for  late  Spring  and 
early  Summer  cropping. 

INSECTS  AND   FUNGOUS  DISEASES 

The  Tomato  under  glass,  especially  when  grown  in  any  way  soft,  is  easily 
attacked  by  different  diseases;  but  these  may  be  kept  down  by  following  the 
instructions  given  as  to  careful  airing  and  steady  temperature,  with  a  dry, 
bracing  atmosphere  at  night.  If  the  vines  are  once  attacked,  the  disease  will 
spread  rapidly.  Tomato  rust  or  mildew  appears  in  the  form  of  fungus  patches 
on  the  under  side  of  the  leaf,  and  this  alone  will  ruin  a  crop  in  a  short  time.  This 
growth  must  be  checked  as  soon  as  it  is  detected;  any  of  the  fungicide  mixtures 
will  do  the  work,  but  it  is  well  to  select  one  that  will  not  disfigure  the  white 
paint  of  the  house.  Copper  solution  is  about  as  effective  as  anything  else,  and 
leaves  but  few  marks  behind.  These  remedies  must  be  used  carefully,  for  the 
Tomato  foliage  is  very  easily  burnt,  and  even  the  copper  solution  should  be 
made  weaker  than  the  directions  call  for. 


TOMATOES  225 

Fruit  rot  is  at  times  a  bit  trouijIcsimK-,  but  I  think  it  is  due  more  or  less 
to  une\en  temperature  in  tlie  earl\  ["all.  This  we  cannot  control,  tor  we  may 
get,  e\en  in  the  late  I'all,  a  few  extremely  hot  da.\s.  Howexer  this  may  be, 
we  know  that  the  trouble  will  disappear  as  soon  as  we  can  keep  up  a  fairly  steady 
temperature.  The  only  remedy  that  I  can  suggest  is  to  gather  up  the  diseased 
fruit  and  burn  or  bury  it.  Where  clubroot  is  troublesome,  the  soil  may  be 
sterilized;  but  when  Tomatoes  are  affected  either  by  blight  or  clubroot,  it  is 
useless  to  waste  any  time  on  them. 

White  fly  will  spread  rapidly  if  allowed  to  go  unchecked.  It  was  difTicuIt 
to  eradicate  before  the  time  of  hydrocyanic  acid  gas,  for  none  of  the  tobacco 
concoctions  affect  it  to  any  extent,  either  in  liquid  form  or  by  fumigating;  but 
a  %ery  mild  dose  of  gas  will  destroy  them.  One-half  ounce  of  cyanide  for  every 
1000  cubic  feet  of  space — using  50%  cyanide — is  sufficient  to  kill  white 
fly,  with  no  harm  to  the  vines.  If  the  cyanide  is  over  50'^,  use  less  than 
one-half  ounce,  and  follow  the  directions  gi\en  for  the  fumigation  of  Lettuce. 

VARIETIES 

Of  varieties  that  are  adapted  for  inside  work  there  are  quite  a  number. 
A  few  points  should  be  noted  here  before  making  a  selection.  A  Tomato  in- 
tended for  forcing  should  be  solid,  with  good  color,  and  should  be  above  all  a 
free  setter.  Some  fifteen  or  twenty  years  ago  the  Lorillard  Tomato  combined 
all  these  qualities,  but  for  some  reason  it  did  not  retain  them  and  hence  lost 
its  place  as  a  forcing  Tomato.  The  following  varieties  will  respond  to  Winter 
forcing,  and  while  some  others  might  be  added,  nothing  is  gained  by  growing 
many  varieties  under  glass.  The  question  resolves  itself  into  selecting  a  lew 
of  the  best,  which  are:  Rochford,  The  Don,  Comet,  Sutton's  Winter  Beauty, 
Sutton's  Earliest  of  All,  Sutton's  Best  of  All,  and  Stirling  Castle.  The  last 
named  is  a  bit  under  size,  but  has  well  shaped  fruit  and  good  setting  qualities. 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


CHAPTER  XXXV 


CUCUMBERS 

ACCORDING  to  ancient  writers,  the  Cucumber  has  been  cuiti\ated 
since  the  earliest  ages  and  has  always  been  esteemed  as  a  table  luxury. 
In  recent  years  forcing  through  the  Winter  months  has  advanced  by 
leaps  and  bounds,  more  so  commercially  than  for  private  purposes,  though  most 
private  establishments  now  include  Cucumbers  among  their  forcing  vegetables. 
In  former  years  the  demand  for  a  regular  supply  at  all  times  was  not  so  keen, 
but  now  they  are  a  necessity  through  the  shortest  days,  as  well  as  in  the  late  Fall 
and  early  Spring.  While  they  require  more  strict  attention  in  the  way  of  treat- 
ment in  the  Winter  months,  and  are  more  expensive  to  produce,  yet  there  is 
then  the  most  brisk  demand,  and  the  best  prices  can  be  obtained. 

Whatever  the  season  of  the  year,  the  crop  must  be  kept  growing  along  witii- 
out  a  check.  If  once  stunted  it  is  difficult  to  get  the  Cucumber  into  good  condi- 
tion again.  The  White  Spine  types  are  those  chiefly  grown  for  the  market, 
while  many  of  the  private  places  prefer  the  English  or  Telegraph  strain.  Both 
of  these  are  worthy  of  consideration,  and  are  excellent  for  forcing  purposes. 
The  Telegraph  would  probably  be  grown  still  more  extensively  were  it  not  that 
they  require  a  somewlf&t  higher  temperature  for  the  best  results;  if  produced 
under  favorable  conditions  the  weight  of  fruit  that  they  yield  is  astonishing,  but 
as  they  are  not  grown  commercially  to  any  extent,  their  good  qualities  are  not 
so  widely  known  as  those  of  the  White  Spine  varieties.  Decided  improvement 
has  been  made  in  recent  years  with  both  types  as  to  size,  shape,  high  quality 
and,  above  all,  productiveness,  so  that  now  we  have  a  splendid  selection  for  grow- 
ing under  glass. 

Good,  thoroughly  ripened,  carefully  selected  seed  is  the  first  requisite  for 
success.  The  seedsmen  in  this  country  are  doing  good  work  in  sending  out  im- 
proved, substantial  seed  material,  with  strong  germinating  power,  that  will 
insure  an  abundant  crop,  under  suitable  treatment. 

Cucumbers  are  grown  both  in  solid  beds  and  in  raised  benches;  the  latter 
are  preferable  for  Winter  forcing.  For  the  short  days  it  is  not  necessary  to  have 
a  large  body  of  soil.  Equal  success  may  be  obtained  in  different  kinds  of  houses, 
ranging  from  the  mammoth  commercial  establishment  to  a  house  fourteen  or 
fifteen  feet  wide.  The  demands  to  be  supplied  will  govern  the  size  of  the  house. 
For  private  use  a  span  house  about  fourteen  feet  wide  will  be  sufficient.  The 
vines  may  be  trained  on  vertical  wires,  though  a  trellis  about  a  foot  from  the  glass 


CUCUMBERS  227 

is  more  desirable;  tiie  Telegrapii  types,  in  fact,  should  not  be  trained  in  any 
other  way,  and  the  English  varieties  also  will  not  withstand  the  same  amount 
of  sun  as  the  White  Spine.  Toward  Spring,  therefore,  when  the  sun  becomes 
more  powerful,  a  light  shade  should  be  used — just  enough  to  break  the  sun's 
rays  without  darkening  the  house. 

The  soil  is  an  important  item  and  it  should  be  carefully  selected.  The  vines 
should  make  a  quick,  healthy  growth;  for  this  there  must  be  free  root  action 
and  the  compost  should  be  of  such  a  nature  that  the  roots  will  rapidly  penetrate 
through  it.  Stagnant  root  action  is  a  serious  drawback.  Sod  land  soil  is  the 
best,  prepared  about  a  month  before  being  required.  The  nature  of  the  soil 
will  determine  the  materials  to  be  added  so  as  to  get  the  best  root  action.  If  it 
iS  heavy,  add  a  liberal  quantity  of  leaf  soil,  and  even  thoroughly  decayed  manure. 
It  is  not  easy  to  give  definite  rules  as  to  soil,  for  even  men  of  wide  experience  may 
err  on  this  point.  The  soil  in  different  places  will  act  differently,  and  it  will 
sometimes  take  several  months  or  a  year  for  a  grower  in  a  new  place  to  learn 
just  how  to  handle  his  soil  to  the  best  advantage. 

SOWING  SEED  AND  CARE  OF  YOUNG  PLANTS 

The  seed  may  be  sown  at  any  time  from  the  first  to  the  middle  of  .August. 
I  prefer  small  pots  for  the  purpose,  with  a  compost  of  loam  and  leaf  soil,  but  no 
manure.  Fill  the  pots  to  within  an  inch  of  the  top,  pressing  it  moderately 
firm;  then  place  a  couple  of  seeds  in  each  pot  and  cover  with  one-half  inch  of 
soil.  Give  a  light  watering  and  cover  the  pots,  or  if  there  are  not  many,  place 
them  in  a  flat  and  cover  the  same  with  a  piece  of  glass,  with  heavy  paper  on  top, 
to  prevent  the  sun  from  striking  through.  If  they  are  kept  in  a  close,  dark  place 
until  germination,  the.\-  will  not  need  any  watering  after  the  first  application 
until  germination  takes  place;  when  the  seedlings  break  through  the  soil  they  must 
be  brought  into  the  light.  There  will  be  no  difficulty  in  raising  young  plants 
during  August,  as  the  surroundings  are  warm;  but  in  the  Winter  months  a  fairly 
brisk  heat  is  necessary;  a  temperature  of  75  is  advisable.  Grow  the  seedlings 
along  in  pots  up  to  about  five  inches.  They  should  then  be  strong,  thrifty 
young  plants,  in  condition  to  grow  rapidly  when  set  in  their  fruiting  quarters. 
The  weather  in  the  early  Fall  is  usually  fine  for  a  free,  rapid,  healthy 
growth.  The  Cucumbers  should  be  ready  to  gather  by  the  first  of  November. 
It  is  not  well  to  allow  the  vines  to  carry  a  heavy  crop  until  they  are 
fairly  strong.  The  White  Spine  types  will  begin  fruiting  ahead  of  the  Tele- 
graph varieties. 

For  Cucumbers  grown  on  raised  benches,  it  is  not  advisable  to  have  a  large 
quantity  of  soil  at  the  first  planting.  If  they  are  to  be  trained  up  the  roof,  they 
may  be  planted  along  the  bench  about  three  feet  apart,  preferably  on  mounds; 
then  as  the  roots  penetrate  through  the  compost,  add  more  soil.  This  will 
induce  a  lively  root  action,  with  a  strong,  vigorous  growth.  I  do  not  recommend 
a  large  body  of  soil  for  carrying  Cucumbers  through  the  short  days;  it  is  better 
to  depend  on  feeding.  Soil  to  fill  a  space  two  feet  wide  and  (i\e  inches  deep  will 
be  sufficient  to  carry  a  heavy  crop.     Where  Cucumbers  are  grown  in  a  wide  house. 


228  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

they  slioulcl  ho  platitcd  in  rows  and  trained  to  xcrtical  wires;  set  the  plants  tliree 
feet  apart,  and  ha\e  tiie  rows  fi\e  or  six  feet  apart. 

WATERING-FEEDING 

Cucumbers  deiijiht  in  an  abundance  of  nuiisture  in  the  atmosphere,  partic- 
ularly so  after  the  fires  have  been  started.  Nor  should  they  suffer  for  want  of 
moisture  at  the  roots;  but  they  must  not  be  watered  to  the  extent  of  souring  the 
soil,  or  the  roots  will  decay.  If  they  are  kept  a  bit  drier  at  the  roots  before 
beginning  to  bear  fruit,  the  vines  will  be  in  better  condition  to  carry  a  heavier 
crop.  A  good  rule  lor  this,  as  for  all  other  vegetables  under  glass,  is  to  give  a 
good  watering  once  and  no  more  until  necessary. 

Feeding  will  be  in  order  when  the  vines  are  carrying  a  heavy  crop.  Manure 
water  from  the  cow  barn  is  excellent  for  producing  a  good  vine  and  foliage. 
But  food  should  also  be  given  with  a  view  to  improving  fruit,  such  as  bone  and 
potash.  Cucumbers  will  take  more  nitrogen  and  less  potash  and  phosphoric 
acid  than  many  other  crops;  still  these  ingredients  are  necessary  to  all  fruit- 
bearing  plants.  A  cucumberhouse  in  full  crop  is  a  handsome  sight,  and  with 
systematic  feeding  the  vines  will  bear  or  produce  Cucumbers  for  a  long  time. 
The  exact  duration  of  a  crop  is  hard  to  foretell,  as  it  depends  largely  on  the 
condition  of  the  \inc.  As  long  as  they  are  hung  full  with  fruit,  it  would  be  lolly 
to  disturb  them,  but  whenever  the  vines  show  signs  of  deterioration,  it  is  better 
to  discard  them  and  start  afresh  with  young  plants.  The  soil  should  then  be 
renewed,  for  it  is  merely  a  waste  of  time  to  try  to  recuperate  Cucumbers  when 
they  once  begin  to  get  stunted  or  worn  out. 

AIRING— TEMPERATURE 

Cucumbers  are  \er\-  exacting  as  to  airing  and  temperature,  and  any  neglect 
or  oversight  in  these  matters  will  react  upon  the  plants.  The  temperature  best 
suited  to  them  is  65  by  night  and  75°  or  80°  with  sun  by  da>-.  Admit  a  crack 
of  air  when  the  thermometer  registers  about  "^2°.  Even  then  good  judgment 
must  be  exercised,  and  it  would  he  well  to  admit  the  air  on  the  opposite  side.  If 
there  is  a  brisk  south  vsiiul  blowing  admit  a  eraek  of  air  on  the  opposite  side. 
There  is  nothing  worse  than  a  cold,  cutting  wind  blowing  directly  on  the  vines; 
in  fact,  they  will  not  stand  it  during  the  short  days,  especially  the  Telegraph 
strain,  which  is  somewhat  more  delicate  than  the  White  Spine  variety. 
The  latter  may  be  grown  successfully  in  a  somewliat  lower  temperature. 
It  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  both  kinds  are  sensitive  to  sudden 
changes.  Therefore,  a  steady  temperature  must  be  maintained  and  the 
airing  done  carefully.  The  atmosphere  must  he  kept  sufhciently  moist, 
and  the  foliage  may  be  sprayed  a  couple  of  times  a  day  in  bright  weather. 
With  such  treatment  the  vines  should  not  he  sick  or  puny,  nor  be  troubled 
with  insects,  which  will  always  attack  a  i)lant  that  is  checked  through  care- 
lessness or  neglect. 


CUCUMBERS 


Cucumber  Improved  Telegraph 
A    batch  of  Cucumbers   grown   in  boxes— proof   sufficient   to   convince   anyone  that   this 
may  be  cultivated  successfully  during  the  Winter  with  a  small  body  of  soil 


■KUnS    AND    XEGHTABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


TRAINING  AND  PRUNING 

The  Cucumber  is  naturall>  a  rapid  grower,  and  if  alKiwed  t(j  go  unrestrained 
It  will  soon  be  beyond  control.  Considerable  pinching  and  pruning  are  neces- 
sary. We  pinch  both  to  produce  fruit  and  to  keep  the  vines  witiiin  bounds, 
and  the  same  applies  to  pruning.  Whenever  the  foliage  gets  crowded  remove 
some  of  the  weaker  and  older  growths,  to  allow  room  for  tying  in  the  young 
growths.  Nothing  is  gained  by  crowding.  One  well-de\elopcd  leaf  is  better 
than  two  poor  ones.  The  young  vines  may  be  allowed  to  grow  up  to  four  or 
live  feet  before  pinching  out  the  center;  the  lead  being  thus  checked,  lateral 
growths  will  come  from  the  axils  of  each  leaf,  and  the  fruit  will  form  from  these 
laterals.  If  the  vines  are  strong  enough  to  carry  the  first  lot  of  fruit  that  appears, 
it  may  remain,  but  it  is  not  w'ell  to  allow  them  to  bear  fruit  until  strong  enough 
to  withstand  the  strain.  Many  a  promising  house  has  been  damaged  more  or 
less  by  such  an  error.  Nothing  is  gained  by  \  er\  early  cropping;  it  seems  to  be. 
on  the  contrary,  a  disadvantage. 

The  trellis  should  be  covered  with  foliage,  but  not  crowded.  Pinch  one 
leaf  beyond  the  fruit,  and  in  a  short  time  growths  will  extend  again  from  the 
shoots  that  have  been  pinched,  with  a  showing  of  fruit,  which  should  again  be 
pinched  one  leaf  beyond.  By  this  method  there  will  be  a  continuous  supply 
of  Cucumbers. 

If  the  vines  and  foliage  are  overcrowded,  they  must  be  pruned.  Cut  away 
as  much  of  the  old  vine  as  possible,  to  make  room  for  the  young  growths,  as  we 
ha\e  to  depend  on  this  for  our  constant  supply  of  fruit.  Do  not  relieve  the 
vines  of  too  large  a  quantity  of  foliage  at  once,  for  this  has  a  tendency  to  check 
them.  It  is  much  safer  to  remove  the  surplus  foliage  by  degrees.  Cucumber 
vines  will  occasionally  produce  far  more  fruit  than  they  should  be  allowed  to 
carry,  especially  the  Telegraph  types,  and  in  such  cases  it  is  better  to  pinch 
some  off. 

SETTING  THE  FRUIT 

The  Cucumber  bears  both  male  and  female  flowers,  like  the  Melon,  but, 
unlike  the  latter,  it  need  not  be  fertilized.  Cucumbers  may  be  grown  success- 
lully  without  any  fertilization  whatever,  especially  the  Telegraph  strain.  But 
if  seed  is  wanted  for  reproduction,  the  female  flower  must  be  fertilized  with  the 
male;  if  no  seed  is  required,  I  prefer  to  grow  the  Telegraph  strain  without  any 
fertilization  whatever.  The  White  Spine  types  may  also  be  grown  in  this  man- 
ner, hut  they  will  swell  more  evenly  if  fertilized.  Where  a  large  quantity  is 
grown,  bees  are  better  for  this  work  than  anything  else. 

The  Cucumber  crop  is  not  bothered  with  many  insects.  Green  fly  may 
appear  once  in  a  while,  but  an  occasional  light  fumigation  will  keep  it  in  check. 
Nico-Fume  is  good  for  this  purpose.  Mildew  or  spot  on  the  foliage  is  far  more 
serious  than  fly,  and  much  more  difficult  to  eradicate;  but  if  the  ventilators 
are  regulated  properly  and  a  congenial  atmosphere  is  maintained,  there  is  no 
occasion  for  mildew  or  spot  on  the  foliage.  This  disease  is  usually  brought 
about  by  uneven  temperatures,  or  perhaps  by  too  cold  nights,  both  conditions 


CUCUMBERS  231 

being  unfavorable  to  a  healthy  growth.  When  this  disease  once  gets  into  a 
house,  it  seems  almost  impossible  to  bring  the  vines  back  into  a  healthy  state, 
and  it  is  probably  a  waste  of  time  to  attempt  to  do  so.  The  best  advice  I  can 
give  is  to  pull  up  the  vines  and  make  a  fresh  start. 

VARIETIES 

The  list  of  Cucumbers  advertised  is  a  long  one,  and  has  been  so  for  many 
years.  A  trial  of  118  varieties  was  made  at  Chiswick,  England,  in  1861,  and 
out  of  this  number  the  Fruit  Committee  selected,  I  believe,  fifteen  for  growing 
under  glass.  It  is  not  necessary  to  have  a  long  list  for  this  purpose;  it  is  better 
to  depend  on  those  kinds  that  will  respond  most  freely  and  give  the  best  results. 
Nearly  all  will  withstand  forcing. 

Of  the  White  Spine  types  Rawson's  Hot  House  is  the  leader,  and  this  can 
safely  be  relied  upon  as  the  mainstay  of  the  house.  Any  of  the  White  Spine 
types  will  force  readily. 

Among  the  English  varieties  Telegraph  has  been  papular  for  nian\  \ears. 
The  true  jtrain  of  Improved  Telegraph  is  one  of  the  \ery  best  all-around  \arie- 
ties  for  Winter  forcing.  The  illustration  on  page  229  plainly  shows  the  free 
fruiting  qualities  of  Improved  Telegraph;  this  photograph  was  taken  in  Mid- 
winter. Among  other  prolific  bearers  are  Sutton's  Delicacy,  Sutton's  Satis- 
faction, Rochford's  Market,  Tender  and  True,  Sutton's  Everyday;  all  of  these 
may  be  relied  upon  to  produce  abundant  crops.  I  could  add  many  more,  but 
I  do  not  think  that  a  long  list  is  necessary  for  forcing  Cucumbers  under  glass. 


C^c^^=CD 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


WT 

1 

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Q       3 


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O      is 


MUSHROOMS 


CHAPTER  XXXVI 


MUSHROOMS 

MUSHROOM  growing,  if  done  successfully,  is  a  profitable  enterprise. 
Much  has  been  written  by  experienced  growers  in  regard  to  the  culti- 
vation of  this  important  crop,  but  every  one  of  them  probably  has 
some  failures  to  record  along  with  his  successes.  I  have  grown  Mushrooms 
for  many  years,  and  I  know,  from  sad  experience,  that  one  bed  may  give  entire 
satisfaction,  while  another,  a  few  weeks  later,  may  be  a  failure,  with  exactly  the 
same  treatment,  seemingly.  Such  variation  is  difficult  to  explain.  Some  won- 
derfully successful  crops  of  Mushrooms  have  been  grown  artiliciall\ ,  and  tlicre 
have  been,  doubtless,  failures  just  as  remarkable. 

The  cultivation  of  Mushrooms  is,  however,  interestmg  work,  all  the  more 
so  on  account  of  the  uncertainty  attending  it.  The  Mushroom  bed  is  probably 
watched  as  carefully  as  any  other  crop  grown  artificially.  When  we  first  see 
the  weblike  spawn  working,  spreading  through  the  soil,  we  feel  encouraged, 
but  not  until  four  or  five  weeks  after  spawning,  when  the  Mushrooms  are  break- 
ing through,  do  we  have  any  certainty  that  our  labors  will  be  rewarded. 
A  successful  crop  is  largely  dependent  on  conditions.  We  may  see  Mush- 
rooms growing  in  all  conceivable  places — in  cellars,  under  greenhouse  benches, 
and  in  houses  especially  built  for  them,  though  there  may  be  many  a  mushroom- 
house  not  up  to  the  requirements  of  the  plant  or  fungus.  The  essential 
point  is  to  bring  the  crop  along  without  adding  much  water  to  the  beds. 
Where  they  dry  out  often  and  much  watering  is  required,  the  result  in 
most  cases  is  failure.  It  seems  a  simple  matter  to  give  directions  for  preparing 
a  Mushroom  bed.  If  we  hear  of  a  grower  who  has  wonderful  success  year  after 
year,  we  may  be  certain  that  the  situation  of  his  beds  is  ideal  for  the  purpose. 
While  it  is  necessary  to  be  familiar  with  the  culture  of  this  crop,  yet  the  man 
who  strikes  the  conditions  agreeable  to  it  is  fortunate;  with  good  treatment 
his  failures  will  be  few.  Anyone  who  has  grown  Mushrooms  in  one  place  only 
will  not  realize  the  force  of  this  argument,  while  those  who  have  had  experience 
in  growing  them  in  different  houses  will  appreciate  it. 

Some  years  ago  I  had,  for  several  seasons,  charge  of  a  house  in  which  a 
failure  was  rare;  the  Mushrooms  always  made  a  healthy  growth.  I  confess 
that  I  was  successful  enough  to  get  a  bit  conceited,  thinking  that  I  had  become 
perfect  in  the  art  of  producing  a  bountiful  crop  of  Mushrooms  year  after  year, 
taking  all  the  credit  to  myself  and  giving  none  to  the  surroundings.     But  lo  and 


234  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

bcliold!  in  time  1  went  tu  anotlier  place,  wliere  I  also  was  in  charge  of  a  mush- 
roomhouse,  and  here  I  had  more  failure  than  success;  in  fact,  my  work  was  a 
failure  from  beginning  to  end — so  much  so  that  in  a  few  years  we  gave  up  fur- 
ther attempts.  I  then  realized  that  my  previous  successes  were  due  more  to 
the  house  than  to  my  own  skill. 

Of  two  houses  that  are  apparently  alike,  one  may  dry  out  much  more  rapidl\ 
than  the  other.  The  best  success  is  obtained  where  a  house  is  built  into  a  bank, 
with  natural  soil  overhead,  or  rather,  natural  soil  above  the  brick  arches.  Such 
a  location  requires  very  little  artificial  heat  to  keep  up  the  proper  temperature, 
and  a  certain  amount  of  ventilation  is  all  that  is  necessary.  In  a  house  of  this 
nature  the  heating  pipes  should  be  rather  small,  and  so  arranged  that  each  may 
be  turned  on  separately,  as  needed. 

There  are  two  modes  of  preparmg  the  manure  for  successful  Mushroom  grow- 
ing. The  one  generally  used  is  to  secure  fresh  horse  manure  from  grain  fed 
horses;  manure  that  has  been  lying  around  for  any  length  of  time  and  has  become 
heated  almost  up  to  a  state  of  burning,  is  practically  useless.  The  quantity 
of  manure  depends  on  the  size  of  the  house.  Large  growers  can  procure  it  in 
carload  lots,  while  private  establishments  may  get  fresh  manure  from  the  horse 
stable  every  morning  until  sufficient  is  collected  to  make  a  bed  of  the  desired 
size.  This  manure  should  be  placed  in  an  open  shed  and  turned  over  once  a 
day  for  a  few  days,  when  loam  may  be  added,  in  the  proportion  of  one  wheelbarrow 
of  loam  to  six  of  manure.  The  loam  seems  to  assist  the  spawn  in  working  better 
through  the  bed.  Two  or  three  days  after  adding  the  soil  the  manure  should  be 
in  condition  to  be  placed  in  the  bed.  Here  good  judgment  is  necessary.  The 
manure  should  be  neither  too  dry  nor  too  wet,  for  in  either  case  it  might  kill 
the  spawn.  It  often  needs  a  light  watering  before  the  bed  is  made;  it  should  be 
moist  but  not  saturated.  A  good  way  to  test  it  is  to  take  up  a  handful  and 
squeeze  it;  there  should  be  just  enough  moisture  to  keep  the  material  together 
with  no  surplus  water  running  off  under  the  pressure.  Manure  in  this  condition 
is  about  right  for  a  healthy  growth  of  spaw  n.  It  should  be  placed  in  the  bed  in 
layers  and  thoroughly  firmed  down  by  tramping  with  the  feet  or  pounding  with 
wooden  mallets,  so  as  to  produce  a  solid  foundation.  Mushrooms  will  not  be  a 
success  when  the  manure  is  soft  and  spongy.  The  bed  should  not  be  too  shallow- 
ten  to  twelve  inches  is  not  any  too  deep  if  it  is  to  last  any  length  of  time. 

If  the  manure  was  in  good  condition,  the  thermometer  will  likely  reach 
100  in  the  bed  within  a  few  days,  probably  more;  spawn  must  not  be  inserted 
until  the  heat  has  receded  to  8o°  or  90°.  English  spawn  may  be  put  in  when  the 
heat  is  just  below  90°,  while  Pure  Culture  spawn  may  be  put  in  at  80°.  Insert 
it  in  the  bed  about  three  or  four  inches  deep  and  about  five  inches  apart  each  way, 
using  pieces  about  the  size  of  a  walnut.  Then  firm  the  manure  down  again  thor- 
oughly. In  about  a  week  or  ten  days  place  two  inches  of  good  maiden  loam 
over  the  bed.  This  also  should  be  in  a  moist  condition,  or  in  such  shape  that  it 
will  pack  down  fairly  solid  with  the  back  of  the  spade.  If  the  beds  are  made  firm, 
they  will  not  dry  out  so  quickly  and  less  water  will  be  needed.  A  quick  drying 
out  of  the  beds  is  injurious  to  the  healthy  development  of  the  Mushrooms,  but 
if  the   manure  gets  dry,   the   bed   must   be   watered.     The  temperature  of  the 


MUSHROOMS  235 

water  should  be  75°  or  80°.  Alter  the  soil  has  been  placed  on  the  beds,  it  is 
well  to  cover  them  with  hay  or  straw,  say  about  an  inch  in  thickness,  as  a  preven- 
tion against  rapid  evaporation,  until  the  Mushrooms  start  to  come  through, 
when  the  material  should  be  removed. 

I  am  often  asked  what  time  elapses  between  spawnin-i  and  the  gathering  of 
the  Mushrooms.  I  cannot  answer  this  question  with  any  degree  of  certainty. 
I  have  gathered  Mushrooms  within  five  weeks  of  spawning,  and  at  other  times 
I  have  had  to  wait  considerably  longer.  Why  this  should  be  so  is  difficult  to 
explain.  Two  theories  have  been  advanced  to  account  for  it.  In  the  first  place, 
manure  and  moisture  must  work  together  just  right  for  the  quick  action  of  spawn; 
then,  again,  we  may  be  fortunate  at  times  in  securing  spawn  with  more  life  in 
it.  If  we  have  gathered  one  rousing  crop,  we  naturally  try  to  make  the  next  bed 
just  like  it.  There  is  probably  more  elation  over  a  successful  crop  of  Mushrooms 
than  over  any  other  crop. 

The  habit  of  this  fungus  when  grown  by  Nature's  unaided  cllorts  shows 
plainly  that  it  delights  in  an  atmosphere  charged  with  moisture.  In  the  latter 
part  of  September,  when  dews  are  prevalent,  the  Mushrooms  may  be  seen 
pushing  their  way  through  the  pasture  land.  While  the  sod  may  often  be  dry, 
the  dampness  in  the  air  from  the  fogs  during  the  night  and  morning  calls  them 
forth.  Therefore,  when  we  grow  them  artificially,  we  should  keep  up  a  fairly 
moist,  humid  atmosphere,  and  this  may  be  done  by  keeping  the  wails  and  walks 
moist. 

When  the  first  crop  is  gathered,  a  little  fresh  soil  may  be  added  to  the  bed, 
with  watering  if  necessary,  and  a  light  application  of  soda,  and  the  chances  are 
that  a  new  crop  \\ill  appear  within  a  short  time.  But  this  depends  on  circum- 
stances. Some  beds  may  be  kept  lively  for  at  least  three  months,  while  others 
will  not  last  half  that  time.  No  rules  can  be  laid  down  here  but  the  one:  hold 
on  to  a  bed  as  long  as  it  is  profitable  to  do  so,  whether  it  is  for  two  months  or  lour 
months. 

Judgment  should  be  used  in  gathering,  for  serious  damage  ma\'  be  done  by 
carelessness.  The  best  way  is  to  take  each  Mushroom  separately,  and  pull 
rather  than  cut  it;  if  it  is  twisted  gentlx'  off  its  stem,  the  >oung,  undeveloped 
ones  near  it  will  not  be  disturbed. 

Having  described  the  general  method  of  culture,  I  will  add  a  few  words  as 
to  my  own  method.  Get  the  manure  fresh  from  the  stable  and  add  about  one- 
half  of  old  Mushroom  manure,  or  enough  to  prevent  burning.  Mix  the  two  thor- 
oughly; leave  the  mixture  in  a  pile  for  one  da.\-  and  then  make  the  bed.  The 
moisture  in  both  manures  should  be  about  equal.  Made  in  this  way  beds  will 
hold  the  moisture  perhaps  longer  than  when  made  in  the  way  above  mentioned 
and  it  is  certainly  a  saving  of  time  and  labor.  I  have  grown  many  successful 
crops  in  such  beds  and  have  not  found  them  inferior  to  any  others.  \\'ith  the 
proper  Mushroom  temperature,  congenial  atmospheric  conditions  and  a  due 
amount  of  care,  there  is  no  occasion  for  failure. 

Proper  temperature  is  an  important  matter.  Mushrooms  will  thri\c  splen- 
didly in  55°,  or  if  kept  at  60°  when  the  spawn  first  begins  to  run,  which  can  be 
detected  by  its  weblike  appearance  spreading  all  over  the  surface,  it  would  be 


236 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


well  then  to  gradually  drop  to  yj  as  the  Mushrooms  begin  to  appear.  They  may 
develop  somewhat  more  slowlj'  at  this  degree,  but  will  more  than  make  up  for 
the  time  in  solidity  and  weight. 

It  is  curious  that  while  the  culture  of  Mushrooms  is  so  very  simple,  with 
but  few  details  to  note,  it  is  more  or  less  often  a  failure.  This  may  be  due  to 
different  causes.  Here  is  an  instance  from  my  own  experience.  Some  years  ago 
two  lots  of  spawn,  secured  from  two  different  places,  were  used  in  a  bed.  The 
result  was  that  one-half  of  the  crop  was  satisfactory  while  the  other  half  was  a 
complete  failure.  This  was  sure  enough  proof  that  the  failure  was  due  to  poor 
spawn.  However,  houses  handling  Mushroom  spawn  are,  as  a  rule,  particular 
as  to  its  quality,  since  they  know  well  enough  the  importance  of  fresh  spawn. 

Until  recent  years  Mushroom  growers  relied  mainly  upon  the  English  Mill 
Tract  spawn,  and  this  is  still  used  by  many;  but  there  has  been  much  less  demand 
for  it  since  the  introduction  of  the  Pure  Culture  spawn.  This  latter  has  made 
many  friends  because  of  its  productivity,  growing  heavy  Mushrooms  in  large 
clusters.  It  is,  however,  decidedly  more  prolific  by  spawning  in  a  temperature 
five  degrees  lower  than  that  recommended  for  the  English  spawn.  Either  kind 
may  be  relied  upon  to  give  satisfaction  if  the  surroundings  are  adapted  to  a 
healthy  growth,  and  this  cannot  be  obtained  in  a  house  which  dries  out  too 
C|uickly. 


CHAPTER   XXXVH 


RHUBARB 

THE  popular  demand  for  Rhubarlj,  both  in  and  out  of  season,  is  steadily 
increasing,  and  the  hothouse  production  is  keeping  pace  with  this  demand. 
The  readiness  with  which  Rhubarb  responds  to  forcing  has  been  recog- 
nized for  many  years,  and  no  wonder,  since  the  plant  is  not  pretentious  as  to  its 
surroundings.  It  will  grow  in  the  dark  as  well  as  in  the  light,  under  the  bench 
or  wherever  else  convenient,  provided  it  gets  the  proper  amount  of  moisture  and 
heat.  It  will  also  produce  growth  in  various  temperatures,  ranging  from  50 
to  70°,  the  only  difference  being  that  the  stalks  will  be  a  bit  more  spindly  if  grown 
very  warm.  From  ^s°  to  60°  will  give  the  best  results,  and  more  may  be  got 
out  of  the  crowns  with  a  moderate  heat  than  if  they  are  rushed  along  too  fast. 

Different  methods  are  used  in  bringing  this  crop  along  out  of  season.  In 
private  establishments  the  roots  are  generally  dug  up  in  the  Fall  and  brought 
into  heat  from  the  latter  part  of  December  on,  about  two  or  three  weeks  apart, 
according  to  requirements.  After  the  roots  have  gone  through  this  forcing 
process,  they  are  useless  for  further  planting.  Where  Rhubarb  is  to  be  forced 
year  after  year,  new  stock  will  have  to  be  obtained  either  by  division  of  old  stock 
or  by  seed.  Rhubarb  beds  are  improved,  after  being  planted  four  or  five  years 
in  one  place,  if  they  are  lifted  and  the  crowns  divided;  but  Rhubarb  is  more  gen- 
erally increased  by  sowing  a  little  seed  each  year. 

Where  it  is  grown  commercially  on  a  large  scale,  roughly  constructed  houses 
are  used.  These  are  built  over  the  beds,  in  w^hich  plants  have  previously  been 
growing  two  and  one-half  feet  apart,  and  have  been  cut  down  by  frost.  Rough 
boards  are  used  for  the  sides  and  ends,  lined  with  paper  as  a  protection,  while  the 
roof  may  be  made  up  of  any  ordinary  sash.  This  mode  of  construction  is,  of 
course,  only  advisable  when  the  plant  is  grown  on  a  large  scale.  A  house  of  this 
kind  may  be  twenty-five  feet  wide  or  more  and  of  any  desired  length.  Either 
steam  or  hot  water  may  be  used  to  keep  up  the  necessary  temperature.  A  steam 
plant  is  the  cheapest  to  put  in.  This  method  can  only  be  recommended  when 
grown  on  an  extensive  scale  for  market  purposes,  the  advantage  of  this  method 
being  that  the  roots  will  not  be  disturbed,  hence  a  heavier  crop  may  be  expected. 

The  main  factor  in  successful  Rhubarb  forcing,  whether  the  plants  are  dug 
up  or  forced  where  they  stand  in  the  ground,  is  a  strong,  healthy  root.  It  is  use- 
less to  attempt  to  force  any  roots  that  are  not  robust  and  healthy.  While 
Rhubarb  is  hardy  and  will  withstand  considerable  rough  treatment,  yet,  like 


238  FRUITS    AND    \EGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

all  other  \egctal)les,  it  will  respond  to  good  culture,  and  the  successful  grower 
will  be  liberal  with  manure.  A  gtxid  batch  of  thrifty  Rhubarb  in  the  forcing 
house  during  the  Winter  or  early  Spring  is  a  pleasant  sight,  and  the  man  who 
brings  it  along  in  this  condition  deserves  all  credit.  Yet  the  material  in  those 
crowns  must  be  stored  up  before  they  are  subjected  to  the  forcing  process.  The 
crowns  may  be  brought  to  the  proper  condition  by  good  cultivation  and  a  liberal 
supply  of  farmyard  manure;  it  is  impossible  to  produce  a  strong  growth  in  impov- 
erished soil.  As  I  have  said,  the  general  method  of  increasing  stock  is  by  seed; 
but  we  may  occasionally  have  an  excellent  strain  that  is  very  productive,  in  which 
case  the  stock  should  be  kept  up  by  division  when  it  gets  to  be  four  or  five  years 
old  and  has  grown  a  goodly  number  of  crowns.  They  may  then  be  divided  and 
replanted  again.  When  increased  by  seed,  part  of  the  crop  will  often  be  found 
coarse  and  undesirable. 

Forced  Rhubarb  is  \ery  delicate  in  appearance,  especially  when  grown  in 
the  dark;  it  will  thrive  here  equally  as  well  as  in  the  light,  the  only  difference 
being  less  leaf  and  longer  stalks;  the  acidity  is  also  diminished,  though  there  is 
still  enough  to  give  the  true  Rhubarb  flavor.  Less  sweetening  will  be  required  to 
make  it  palatable  and  this  is  a  point  in  its  favor  as  against  the  outdoor  product. 

In  selecting  plants  with  extra  strong  crow^ns  for  forcing  purposes,  far  better 
results  will  be  obtained  when  the  foliage  has  died  down  and  before  hard  freezing 
sets  in.  Enough  roots  should  be  dug  up  to  carry  through  the  forcing  season. 
In  regard  to  quantity — every  one  will  be  governed  according  to  demand,  although 
in  digging  up  those  roots  one  should  secure  all  the  roots  possible;  also  leave  as 
much  soil  as  will  remain  among  the  fibrous  roots.  It  is  absolutely  necessary  for 
best  results  to  allow  those  roots  to  go  through  a  freezing  process  before  they  are 
placed  in  their  forcing  quarters;  better  results  will  then  be  obtained,  as  the 
crowns  will  throw  up  more  freely  when  Nature  has  done  her  part  in  freezing 
them.  The  roots  may  be  allowed  to  stay  in  the  open,  but  when  frozen  they 
should  be  staked  in  piles  and  covered  with  long  manure  to  prevent  constant 
freezing  and  thawing;  roots  then  can  be  selected  for  the  forcing  house  whenever 
needed.  Anj-  time  in  December  a  batch  of  roots  may  be  put  into  heat,  either 
under  a  greenhouse  bench,  where  a  minimum  temperature  of  55°  to  60  can  be 
maintained,  or  in  a  mushroomhouse;  Rhubarb  will  thrive  splendidly  in  either  of 
these  locations.  The  roots  should  be  placed  close  together,  filling  in  the  open, 
hollow  spaces  between  them  with  soil,  leaf  mould  or  anything  else  that  will  hold 
moisture. 

Enough  material  should  be  used  to  cover  the  roots,  and  also  the  crowns 
slightly.  Very  little  watering  is  required  until  the  growth  commences,  when  the 
plants  should  be  kept  fairly  moist.  A  constant  supply  may  be  had  by  bringing 
fresh  roots  into  heat  every  three  weeks,  from  Christmas  until  the  outdoor  product 
comes  around  again.  It  takes  very  little  labor  and  attention  to  furnish  this 
healthful  table  delicacy.  No  doubt  there  have  been  failures  in  this  crop  due  to 
bad  selection  of  old  roots,  which  are  not  suited  for  forcing.  Plants  three  years 
old  are  of  just  the  right  age,  if  they  have  been  under  good  culture  in  rich  soil. 
Older  plants  may  also  be  used,  but  they  will  be  slower  in  starting  into  growth, 
and  the  stalks  will  be  much  smaller.     The  best  roots  possible  should  be  obtained. 


for  herein  lies  tiie  main  secret  of  success  in  forcing  Rluiljarb  tiiat  will  please  both 
the  grower  and  the  consumer. 

As  the  process  ol  raising  this  crop  artificially  is  so  very  simple,  ansone  with 
little  or  no  experience  may  undertake  it  and  feel  reasonably  sure  of  success.  It 
is  not  even  necessary  to  have  a  greenhouse  or  mushroomhouse.  I  have  seen 
excellent  stalks  produced  in  a  cellar  with  a  temperature  of  50°  to  55°,  the  plant>- 
being  placed  in  a  corner  where  they  could  be  supplied  with  moisture.  What 
other  plant  is  there  which  will  put  up  with  such  varying  conditions  and  jiroduce 
a  successful  crop?  There  is  really  no  reason  why  it  should  not  be  more  generally 
forced  even  than  it  is  now.  AH  the  varieties  will  submit  to  forcing.  W.  W.  Raw- 
son,  of  Boston,  recommends  Burbank's  Winter  Crimson  for  forcing;  this,  from  so 
high  an  authority,  deserves  to  be  noted.  Among  the  others  that  may  be  relied 
upon  are  Mitchell's  Roval  Albert  and  Myatt's  Victoria.  Taking  any  desired 
variety,  the  most  important  point  is  to  have  vigorous  plants. 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


CHAPTER  XXXVIII 


ASPARAGUS 


ASPARAGUS  forces  as  readily  as  Rhubarb,  and  the  operation  is  equally 
simple.  While  it  is  probably  not  forced  to  any  great  extent,  yet  it  is 
most  acceptable  during  the  Winter.  It  would  be  folly  to  rely  on  old, 
e.xhausted  beds  and  expect  them  to  produce  satisfactory  results,  for  the  best  we 
could  get  out  of  them  would  be  a  quantity  of  small,  spindly  shoots.  The  mode 
of  culture  generally  adopted  in  private  establishments  with  a  system  for  Winter 
vegetables,  is  as  follows:  Before  hard  freezing  sets  in  in  late  Fall,  the  number  of 
crowns  necessary  are  lifted,  selecting  good,  thrifty,  robust  roots,  preferably  not 
over  three  or  four  years  old,  for  older  crowns  are  difficult  to  remove  on  account 
of  their  tangled  mass  of  roots.  They  must  be  lifted  carefully,  with  as  much  soil 
as  possible  adhering  to  the  roots.  For  Asparagus  at  Christmas  they  should  be 
brought  into  heat  three  weeks  in  advance.  It  is  best  to  put  them  in  a  position 
where  they  receive  a  certain  amount  of  light,  perhaps  under  a  greenhouse  bench 
with  a  temperature  of  about  60°.  Place  the  roots  close  together,  run  a  four- 
inch  board  along  the  sides  and  put  on  light  soil,  filling  in  all  the  hollow  spaces 
with  enough  to  cover  the  crowns  two  or  three  inches;  give  a  good  watering  to 
settle  the  soil  well  around  the  roots.  The  returns  will  be  quick,  and  if  the  batch 
is  carefully  handled,  it  will  last  quite  a  while.  Where  a  supply  is  to  be  kept  up, 
another  batch  must  be  brought  in  within  three  or  four  weeks.  Plants  that  are 
dug  up  for  forcing  may  remain  out  in  the  open  and  be  brought  into  heat  as  needed. 
Pile  them  up  and  cover  the  roots  with  soil  and  leaves  or  light  manure  on  the  out- 
side, according  to  the  weather.  Th.is  method  will  give  free  access  to  the  roots 
at  all  times.  In  any  case,  the  roots  must  be  protected  or  covered  so  as  to  keep 
in  the  moisture. 

Excellent  Asparagus  may  also  be  brought  along  in  frames,  especially  if  there 
are  hot  water  pipes.  Even  a  hotbed  of  manure  will  answer,  otherwise  the  soil 
will  be  cold  and  progress  slow.  Bottom  heat  of  60°  to  70°  will  bring  it  along 
nicely.  At  the  same  time,  it  is  not  well  to  depend  entirely  on  the  hotbed;  there 
should  be  some  artificial  heat  in  reserve.  When  the  roots  are  dug  up  for  forcing, 
they  get  a  considerable  check,  even  though  they  be  lifted  carefully,  and  the  shoots 
will  not  be  equal  in  quality  to  those  of  undisturbed  roots.  It  is,  moreover,  a 
sacrifice  to  a  certain  extent,  for  the  crowns  arc  useless  after  having  been  forced; 
but  there  are  times  wlicn  sacrifices  are  not  to  be  considered  so  long  as  certain 
results  are  obtained. 


ASPARAGUS  241 

Much  finer  slioots  may  probably  be  obtained  by  I'ollowing  tiie  metliod  of  tlie 
commercial  Riiubarb  establisliment:  Construct  a  rough  house  over  a  bed  planted 
with  that  end  in  view.  This  is  a  good  plan  where  a  large  supply  is  needed;  but 
it  is  not  necessary  for  private  use,  if  the  roots  are  grown  nearby,  so  that  they  are 
not  handled  much;  the  method  of  lifting  the  roots  and  bringing  them  in  as  needed 
cannot  well  be  impro\ed  upon. 

The  forcing  of  Asparagus  is  very  simple,  as  compared  with  that  of  other 
vegetables,  although  the  shoots  are  sometimes  not  of  tiie  highest  grade.     In 


The  story  of  forced  Asparagus  is  told  in  this  picture, 

showing    the    delicate,    succulent,    young 

growths  almost  ready  for  use 


order  to  obtain  the  best  results,  the  utmost  care  must  be  exercised  in  handling 
the  roots  before  they  go  into  heat.  If  the  soil  where  they  are  growing  is  of  such 
nature  that  a  quantity  can  remain  with  the  crowns,  the  growth  will  start  much 
stronger  and  yield  a  steady  cut  for  a  longer  time.  These  roots  should  be  forced 
in  a  moderate  temperature.  Out  in  the  open  beds  it  is  one  of  the  first  vegetables 
to  be  gathered,  showing  plainly  that  it  does  not  need  a  great  amount  of  heat  to 
start  into  growth. 

I  have  seen  Asparagus  roots  forced  in  the  mushroomhouse,  but  while  the 
growth  may  come  along  all  right,  fla\or  is  not  the  same  as  when  more  light  is 
given.  Different  methods  have  been  used  in  former  years  for  growing  Asparagus 
out  of  season.     It  has  even  been  planted  in  beds,  with  space  enough  between  the 


2^2  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

beds  tor  a  trencli  eighteen  to  twenty  inches  wide,  which  was  filled  with  stable 
manure,  or  half  manure  and  half  leaves;  then  frames  were  placed  over  the  beds 
and  the  manure  brought  up  level  with  the  top  of  the  frames.  This  may  be  done 
near  large  cities,  where  the  manure  can  generally  be  had  in  quantity.  I  think 
this  method  of  producing  early  Asparagus  was  followed  on  a  large  scale  years 
ago  in  the  suburbs  of  Paris,  France,  and  excellent  crops  were  undoubtedly  pro- 
duced; but  the  handling  of  such  large  bulks  of  manure  involves  considerable 
labor.  With  us  here  it  is  a  question  of  getting  the  largest  results  with  the  least 
outlay  of  labor,  and  this  is  best  done  by  forcing  lifted  plants,  although  they  may 
be  useless  afterward  and  are  therefore  a  loss.  But  aside  from  this  disadvantage, 
Asparagus  does  not  require  much  labor  and  hardly  any  coal,  as  it  may  be  forced 
under  a  bench  of  other  crops,  in  space  that  is  not  needed  for  anything  else.  So 
taking  everything  into  consideration  it  is  not  an  "expensive  crop.  Any  of  the 
standard  varieties  will  submit  to  the  forcing  process. 


CARROTS— BEETS-STRING    BEANS 


CHAPTER     XXXIX 


CARROTS— BEETS— STRING  BEANS 

YOUNG  Carrots  are  often  in  demand  and  may  be  had  with  little  troiihie. 
I  Iiave  also  seen  good  Carrots  grown  in  frames  with  artificial  heat.  The 
best  sorts  for  forcing  are  the  Early  Short  Horn  types.  For  a  siippl\  of 
young  Carrots  during  the  Winter,  a  sowing  may  be  made  once  a  month,  from 
about  November.  The  dwarf  forcing  varieties,  which  will  not  produce  much 
top,  may  be  sown  in  drills  six  inches  apart,  and  when  the  seedlings  are  large 
enough,  thin  to  about  one  inch  apart  in  the  rows. 

These  early  forcing  Carrots  may  be  grown  either  on  raised  benches  or  in 
solid  beds.  They  want  a  fairly  loose,  rich,  warm,  friable  soil  for  quick  growth, 
with  a  steady,  even  temperature.  They  may  also  be  grown  under  lettuce  or 
tomatohouse  conditions,  but  whatever  temperature  they  have  become  accustomed 
to  should  be  followed  up.  There  is  nothing  better  for  enriching  the  soil  than  good 
farmyard  manure  thoroughly  decayed,  with  a  fair  coat  of  wood  ashes  worked 
into  the  soil.  Carrot  land  is  improved  somewhat  with  nitrogen  and  also  where 
potash  is  available. 

A  considerable  quantity  of  roots  may  be  got  out  of  a  comparatively  small 
space,  and,  fortunately,  there  are  no  insect  pests  or  diseases  to  bother  them 
Toward  Spring  excellent  Carrots  can  be  grown  in  regular  hotbeds,  although  it 
is  not  advisable  to  attempt  too  early  a  start,  at  least  not  until  the  grower  is  reason- 
ably sure  of  maintaining  a  suitable  temperature.  From  about  the  first  of  March 
Carrots  will  make  a  good,  healthy  growth  where  the  temperature  of  the  soil  can 
be  maintained  at  about  60  . 

BEETS 

Beets  require  exactly  the  same  treatment  as  to  heat,  soil,  etc.,  the  only 
ditTerence  being  that  as  they  produce  more  top,  more  space  is  required  for  devel- 
opment. They  may  be  sown  in  drills  one  foot  apart  and  thinned  in  the  rows  to 
two  or  three  inches.  Another  method,  by  which  space  may  be  saved,  is  to  sow 
the  Beet  seed  in  flats  and  then  transplant  into  the  beds.  The  earliest  maturing 
varieties  should  be  selected  for  growing  under  glass. 

Beets  and  Carrots  are  not  forced  to  any  extent;  but  the  young,  fresh  grown 
roots  are  far  superior  to  the  stored  crops,  by  which  the  Winter  demands  are  gen- 
erally supplied.     Vegetables  that  adapt  themselves  to  forcing  are  certain  to  give 


244  FRUITS    AND    VLCETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

general  satisfaction.  W'itli  many  of  them  the  labor  is  trifling  as  compared  with 
that  bestowed  on  other  products  of  the  forcing  process.  A  house  de\oted  to 
vegetables,  when  kept  fully  stocked  with  growing  crops,  will  yield  a  large  supply. 


A  tvpe  of  Carrots  best  adapted  for  forcing  purposes. 

One  should  always    aim   to   select   the    very 

earhest    and  quickest  niatiirint; 

\arieties  for  this  work 


STRING  BEANS 


Beans  are  easily  forced  during  the  Winter,  and  in  private  places  where 
choice  vegetables  are  in  demand  they  are  highly  appreciated,  as  they  are  far 
superior  to  any  that  can  be  procured  in  the  open  market.  If  they  are  grown 
inside,  they  do  not  receive  any  check;  they  get  the  heat  and  moisture  suited 
to  their  best  development,  and  are  tender  and  of  rich  flavor.  Furthermore, 
they  are  not  exacting  as  to  temperature,  although  the  most  satisfactory  is  a 
minimum  of  60  with  a  ma.ximum  of  75°.  Years  ago  I  saw  excellent  crops  pro- 
duced in  eight-inch  pots  on  shelves  near  the  glass  in  pinestoves.  In  this  loca- 
tion the  soil  is  of  course  of  the  same  temperature  as  the  atmosphere,  and  herein 
lies  probably  the  secret  of  success  in  growing  Beans  under  glass,  whether  they 
be  m   pr)ts  or  planted  on   a   bench.     Raised   benches  are   therefore  preferable. 


CARROTS— BEETS— STRING    BEANS  24s 

with  pipes  running  below  or  under  tiie  benches,  to  keep  a  congenial  warmth 
in  the  soil;  this  will  induce  healthy  root  action  and  substantial,  steady  growth. 
They  cannot  be  grown  successfully  through  the  short  days  when  the  roots  are 
much  cooler  than  the  tops.  In  our  climate,  where  sunshine  is  abundant,  the  bench 
system  is  to  be  preferred  to  pot  culture,  as  it  requires  much  less  labor. 

As  to  the  variety,  a  strain  should  be  selected  that  does  not  produce  an  o\er- 
abundance  of  foliage,  especially  through  the  shortest  days,  and  also  those  kinds 
that  mature  quickly.  There  are  quite  a  number  of  varieties  that  can  be  grown 
successfully  under  glass. 

Beans  delight  in  a  rich,  mellow  soil,  well  supplied  with  humus.  Select 
soil  of  the  same  nature  that  grows  them  satisfactorily  in  the  garden.  This 
crop  will  make  a  rapid  growth  with  plenty  of  moisture  at  the  roots,  combined 
with  sufficient  heat  to  produce  a  healthy,  luxuriant  foliage.  The  best  material 
for  enriching  the  soil  is  thoroughly  decayed  farmyard  manure,  adding  enough 
to  produce  a  substantial  growth.  The  Beans  may  be  grown  in  about  li\  e  inches 
of  soil  on  raised  benches,  planted  in  rows  si.xteen  inches  apart  and  one  inch  apart 
in  the  rows.  Cover  the  seed  with  about  one  inch  of  soil.  From  early  maturing 
varieties  Beans  may  be  gathered  in  seven  weeks  after  planting.  If  plantings 
are  made  about  everv  ten  days,  a  constant  supply  can  be  maintained.  A  tem- 
perature of  60°  to  6j°  by  night  and  -5°  by  day  is  agreeable  to  a  healthy  develop- 
ment.    Air    must    be   admitted    whenever   the   weather   permits,    as   too    much 


vays  a  call  for  tender  young  Beets.      The  only  way  to  secure  a  supply 
during  the  Winter  is  by  producing  them  under  glass 


246  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

coddling  invites  disease  and  mildew.  The  latter  will  play  havoc  with  a  batch 
of  Beans  in  a  short  time,  and  the  same  may  be  said  of  red  spider.  When  these 
once  get  a  start,  dryness  of  the  air  will  encourage  their  rapid  spread. 

The  foliage  may  be  sprayed  every  bright  day  until  the  plants  begin  to 
bloom;  keep  it  a  bit  drier  during  the  flowering  period,  but  never  allow  Beans 
to  suffer  for  want  of  moisture  at  the  roots  at  any  time. 

\\  hen  the  crop  is  gathered,  the  vines  nia\'  be  cleared  off  and  the  beds  re- 


Black  Valentine 


The  excellent  qualities  of  Black  Valentine  have  long 

been  recognised.     It  is  a  prolific  cropper,  both 

in  the  open  and  under  glass.     Responds 

admirably  to  the  forcing  process 

planted,  after  a  sprinkling  of  bone  or  wood  ashes.  If  fertilizers  are  applied 
in  this  manner,  the  roots  will  get  the  benefit  gradually.  During  the  short  Winter 
months  I  prefer  this  method  of  feeding  to  surface  dressing  or  liquid  manure. 

The  main  factor  of  success  with  this  crop  is  a  suitable  house,  where  it  will 
get  plenty  of  light  and  sun.     In  such  a  location,  and  with  reasonable  care,  there 


CARROTS-BEETS-STRING    BEANS 


should  be  no  difficulty  in  producing  a  good  suppiv  of  young  Beans  for  \\  inter 
use.  I  do  not  recommend  this  crop  for  commercial  purposes,  as  the  returns  are 
much  lighter  than  from  such  crops  as  Lettuce,  Tomatoes,  etc.,  but  it  is  an  ex- 
cellent crop  for  private  requirements,  and  its  excellent  qualities  as  a  forced 
vegetable  have  long  been  recognized.  Red  spider  and  mildew  are  two  of  its 
worst  enemies,  which  will  spread  rapidly  if  once  started.  The  only  safeguard 
against  these  pests  is  a  steady  temperature  and  spraying  the  foliage  when  the 
weather  is  clear. 

As  to  varieties.  Black  Valentine  is  one  of  the  best,  a  healthy  grower  and 
heavy  cropper.  Other  good  varieties  are  Selected,  Ne  Plus  Ultra,  Wonder  of 
France,  Sutton's  Forcing,  and  Osborn's  Forcing,  all  of  which  will  crop  well  under 
glass. 


248 


FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 


CHAPTER  XL 


SIZA  KALE  AND  CHICORY 

A  CONSIDERABLE  quantity  of  Sea  Kale  is  forced  in  Europe  during  the 
Winter  and  early  Spring;  most  establishments,  in  fact,  set  apart  quite 
a  plot  for  this  \egetable  and  devote  a  good  deal  of  attention  to  it.  it 
may  be  forced  in  the  open,  or  the  cro\\ns  can  be  lifted  and  forced  inside.  To 
ensure  thorough  blanching  it  must  be  grown  in  a  dark  place,  as,  for  instance,  a 
mushroomhouse.  Being  a  native  of  England,  it  naturally  does  not  require  a 
high  temperature;  the  crowns  would  probably  refuse  to  start  if  subjected  to 
high  heat.  When  grown  out  of  doors,  it  will  make  a  strong,  vigorous  growth  in 
a  temperature  of  50  to  55  ;  therefore  when  it  is  brought  into  the  forcing  process, 
it  will  make  a  stronger  and  more  substantial  growth  with  a  moderate  heat. 
This  particularly  holds  good  when  it  is  first  started  up. 

When  the  forcing  of  Sea  Kale  is  contemplated,  the  best  mode  of  producing 
strong  crowns  should  be  considered.  An  open  location  is  to  be  preferred;  the 
foliage  will  be  weak  if  the  plant  is  grown  in  a  shady  place.  Any  good  garden 
soil  should  produce  a  satisfactory  growth,  though  it  should  not  be  of  a  very 
heavy  texture,  but  rather  a  rich,  deep,  sandy  loam,  or  such  as  will  oroduce  good 
Asparagus,  with  about  the  same  treatment  as  to  manure,  etc.  Nitrate  of  soda 
may  be  applied  a  couple  of  times  during  the  season  of  growth,  sown  broadcast 
between  the  rows;  this  stimulates  a  healthy,  clean  growth. 

The  plants  may  be  increased  by  seed  or  from  root  cuttings;  the  latter  are 
preferable  when  the  stock  is  available,  as  they  grow  into  plants  suitable  for 
forcing  in  less  time  than  seedlings.  When  seed  is  used,  sow  it  in  the  Spring 
in  drills  two  feet  apart  and  thin  out  to  six  or  eight  inches  in  the  rows.  The 
following  season  prepare  a  i^iece  of  ground  for  transplanting,  as  one-year-old 
seedlings  are  not  strong  enough  for  forcing.  At  this  planting  more  space  must 
be  given  for  full  development;  two  and  one-half  or  three  feet  between  the  rows 
is  not  too  much,  with  three  feet  apart  in  the  rows.  When  lifting  plants  for 
transplanting,  the  top  of  each,  or  the  crown  bud,  should  be  cut  off,  as  a  preven- 
tive against  running  into  seed.  By  this  method  new  crowns  are  formed,  and 
there  is  not  much  danger  of  the  plants  producing  seed  after  being  planted.  Insert 
them  so  that  the  crown  will  be  a  couple  of  inches  below  the  surface.  Encourage 
a  free  growth  as  they  come  up;  a  mulch  of  manure  may  be  given  occasionally, 
especially  in  a  dry  spell. 

When  digging  up  plants  for  forcing,  some  of  the  roots  may  be  secured  for 


SUA    KALE    AND    CHICORY  24.) 

stock,  althougli  thc\-  should  not  be  robbed  of  many.  It  is  better  to  grow  a  few 
stock  plants  solely  lor  root  cuttings.  iMedium-sized  root  cuttings  are  prefer- 
able to  oversturdy  ones,  and  the  young  roots  will  ultimately  make  better  plants 
than  would  be  obtained  from  transplanting  older  and  thicker  parts.  At  times, 
when  stock  is  somewhat  scarce,  root  cuttings  are  made  from  plants  that  have 
been  forced,  but  I  do  not  approve  of  this  method,  for  the  constitution  of  a  plant 
which  has  gone  through  the  forcing  process  is  considerably  weakened,  and  it  is 
not  a  fit  subject  for  reproduction. 

Root  cuttings  should  be  made  four  or  five  inches  in  length.  Cuttings  set 
out  in  early  Spring  should  make  plants  strong  enough  for  forcing  by  the  fol- 
lowing Winter.  The  number  of  plants  intended  for  Winter  forcing  should  be 
lifted  before  hard  freezing  sets  in,  and  stored  in  a  cool,  moist  place.  Introduce 
them  into  heat  from  December  on,  a  batch  about  every  ten  days.  Insert  the 
roots  in  a  loose,  moist,  open  soil,  placing  them  rather  close  together,  as  the 
blanched  sprouts  should  be  cut  before  they  get  very  large,  or  when  they  are 
four  inches  to  six  inches  long;  they  are  then  crisp  and  tender.  TlieN  do  not 
require  much  water,  provided  the  material  around  the  roots  is  moist. 

A  mushroomhouse  is  the  best  place  for  forcing  Sea  Kale,  but  before  being, 
put  into  it  the  plants  might  be  acclimatized  for  a  few  days  in  a  cool  greenhouse 
This  can  be  done  with  very  little  trouble  by  providing  boxes  deep  enough  and  of  a 
size  to  be  handled  easily,  and  placing  the  crowns  in  them,  so  that  they  need  not 
be  disturbed  again.  Renio\e  them  to  the  mushroomhouse  as  they  show  signs  of 
growth.     While  this  may  involve  a  little  extra  labor,  the  growths  will  be  stronger. 

Toward  Spring  tender  blanched  sprouts  may  be  had  from  the  beds  outside, 
without  lifting,  with  the  aid  of  Sea  Kale  pots  or  large  drain  pipes,  and  fresh  stable 
manure  placed  around  them.  This  method  brings  them  in  considerably  ahead  of 
their  natural  season. 


Chicory  can  be  forced  in  the  same  way  as  Sea  Kale.  The  French  probably 
use  more  Chicory  for  salads  than  any  other  \  egetable.  A  nati\e,  also,  ol  lingiand, 
it  may  be  brought  into  growth  with  a  comparatively  low  temperature.  It  is 
cultivated  in  the  same  way  as  Endive;  in  fact,  Witloof,  which  is  the  best  for 
forcing,  is  often  called  French  Endive. 

The  seed  should  be  sown  late  in  the  Spring,  in  drills  eighteen  inches  apart, 
and  w  hen  large  enough,  thin  to  about  eight  inches  in  the  rows.  This  is  preferable 
to  transplanting  as  they  produce  long,  tapering  roots.  Before  sowing,  the  soil 
should  be  cultivated  deep.  It  should  be  fairly  rich,  but  without  containing  new- 
manure.  The  best  time  to  apply  the  manure  is  the  Fall,  when  most  of  the  leaves 
die  down.  Dig  the  roots  up  carefully  before  hard  freezing  sets  in  and  store  them 
in  a  cool  place.  Two  or  three  weeks  before  the  blanched  roots  are  wanted,  put 
a  batch  in  the  mushroomhouse,  or  some  other  dark  place  where  a  temperature 
of  about  50"  can  be  maintained. 

The  roots  should  be  planted  in  some  light  material,  with  just  enough  moisture 
to   start   the  fibers   into   motion.      Ha\e  the  crowns   projecting  about  one-half 


2,„  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

inch  out  of"  the  soil.  Tlic  lea\es,  when  grown  in  the  dark,  will  be  a  delicate, 
creamy  white.  They  may  be  cut  for  use  when  they  are  about  a  foot  long.  By 
placing  fresh  roots  about  every  ten  days  a  constant  supply  may  be  had. 

Chicory  is  very  tender  when  thoroughly  blanched,  and  is  much  liked  as  a 
salad,  being  wholesome  with  an  agreeable,  slightly  bitter  flavor.  As  a  forcing 
plant,  it  requires  very  little  care  or  attention.  The  main  point  is  not  to  gi\e  the 
roots  too  much  water.  It  may  be  had  without  the  aid  of  either  greenhouse  or 
mushroomhouse,  if  there  is  a  cellar  at  hand  warm  enough  to  produce  growth. 
The  roots  may  be  grown  in  the  garden  during  the  Summer,  in  preparation  for 
the  Winter.  It  is  interesting  to  watch  this  plant  de\elop,  while  everything  is 
dormant  outside,  quite  aside  from  the  utilitarian  aspect.  Witloof  Chicory  is 
used  both  as  a  vegetable  and  salad. 

A  surprising  number  of  vegetables  and  salads  can  be  produced  with  com- 
paratively little  cost,  if  every  available  space  is  systematically  occupied  through- 
out the  forcing  season.  And  the  successful  production  of  these  greens  is  a  source 
of  pleasure  and  enjoyment  alike  to  the  grower  and  employer. 


CLASSIFIED  INDEX 


CLASSIFIED     INDEX 

FRUITS  UNDER  GLASS 

APPLES.     See  Pot  Fruit. 

APRICOTS.     See  Pot  Fruit. 

CHERRIES.     See  Pot  Fruit. 

FIGS:  Page 

Drainage i  59 

Feeding i6o,  163,  164 

Gathering  the  Fruit 164 

Planting 160,  162 

Propagation 1 58 

Pruning  and  Training 164,  165 

Root  Pruning 162 

Second  Crop,  Preparations  for: 

Pinching 162 

Temperature — Pruning 163 

Soil 160 

Temperature i6o 

Varieties  Best  Suited  for  Forcing 165 

Ventilation I  59 

GRAPES: 

Commercial  Grape  Culture 65,  66 

Cool  Storehouse    82,  83 

Cultural  Directions: 

When  to  Start  Early,  Mid-season  and  Late  House — Temperature 38 

Airing  the  House 38,  40,  41 

Spraying 40 

Feeding 41 

Disbudding 53 

Exhibition,  Handling  Grapes  for 83,  84,  85 

History  of  the  Grape  Vine 17,  '8 

Houses  Best  Adapted  for  Growing  Grapes: 

Size — Ventilation — Elevation 20 

Heating — Piping 21 

Insects  and  Diseases: 

Mealy  Bug— Red  Spider. 75 

Thrips — Vine  Weevil — Mildew  76 

Scalding  of  Berries — Rust 78 

Shanking 79 

Keeping  Qualities  of  Grapes 80,  81 

Packing  Grapes  for  Forwarding 83 

Pinching  or  Stopping  Shoots 54.  5 5>  56 

Planting  Young  Vines: 

When  to  Plant— Selection  of  Canes— Soil— Fertilizer— Watering 43 

Plants  Rooted  from  Eyes— Correct  Trellis 45.  46 

Pot  Culture: 

Vines  Grown  from  Eyes 85,  86 

Soil — Fertilizer — Repotting — Cutting  Back 86 

Watering — Feeding — Temperature — Methods  of  Training  Vines 88 

Varieties  Best  Adapted  for  Pot  Work 89 

Pot  Grape  Vines  for  Fruiting — Temperature — Watering 89 


252  FRUITS    AND    VEGETABLES    UNDER    GLASS 

GRAPES— Continued. 

Propagation,  Various  Systems  of:  Page 

When  to  Propagate — Propagation  from  Eyes 22 


Layering — By  Inarching 
Grafting — Bv  Seed  Cross  Fertili: 


Pruning  the  Vine,  Methods  of: 

^'oung  Canes — The  Short  Spur  System 

Long  Rod  System 

Tying  the  Vines — Adventitious  or  Aerial  Roots. 

Keeping  Fruit  Healthy 

Setting  the  Fruit 

Thinning  Grapes 


Varieties  Best  Adapted  for  Early  and  Late  Use: 

Best  Varieties  for  Pot  Vines 

.Muscat  Grapes 

Sweetwater  Grapes 

Vinous  Grapes 


S6 
■,  61 

,  i7 
.63 

68 
69 
^0 

2y 

32 

.  33. 

.  3+ 

Vine  Borders: 

Inside  and  Outside  Borders,  Locatio 

Draining  a  Border 

Fertilizer 

Watering — Root  Action 

MELONS: 

Feeding 1-4,  175 

Fertilizer 1 6g 

Gathering  the  Fruit 177 

House,  Style  of 167,  169^ 

Insects 177 

•Mildew 178 

Planting 172,  173 

Seedlings : 1 6-,  1 70 

Setting  the  Fruit 1-3,  1-4. 

Soil 1 69 

Temperature 169 

Varieties 1-8 

Watering 1-4 

■^'oung  Plants,  Raising.  .  170 

PEACHES  and  NECTARINES: 
Borders  and  Their  Construction: 
Drainage. 


Soil — Fertilizer 

Budding 

Cultural  Directions: 

Cleanliness  in  the  House — Soil — Fertilizer 

Feeding 

Temperature— Spraying — Ventilation — Watering 

Disbudding  and  Tying  the  Young  Growths 

Diseases  and  Insect  Pests: 

San  Jose  Scale 

Peach  Borer 

Green  Fly— Mildew — Fruit  Rot  or  Blight 

Gathering  the  Fruit 

Treatment  of  Trees  after  Fruit  is  Gathered 

I  louse  or  I  louses  Best  Adapted  for  Growing 

Span  Roof — Location — Ventilation 

Crosswise  System — Size  of  House — Leanto  or  Three-Quarter  Spa 
Planting: 

When  to  Plant— Selection  of  Stock 

Soil-Fertilizer-How  to  Plant 

Pruning  and  Training 

Thinning  the  Fruit 

Varieties  for  Forcing  Purposes,  Selection  of 


iM. 

"14. 

1 1  5 

loH. 

109 

23, 

124, 

126 

PEARS.     Se-'  Pot  Fruit. 


CLASSIFIED    INDEX  253 

PINEAPPLES:  Page 

Culture 194,  19;,  196 

Feeding 195,  196,  197 

Fertilizer 192,  194,  195 

House,  Suitable 191,  192 

Insects: 

Mealv  Bug — Red  Spider 200 

Pot  System: 

Atmosphere — Size  of  Pots — Repotting — Bottom  Heat — Drainage 199 

Propagation 192,  193 

Shading 1 96 

Soil 192,  194 

Spraying 195 

Temperature. . . .' 191,  192,  194 

Ventilation 198 

Varieties 200 

Watering 1 06 

PLUMS.     See  Pot  Fruit. 
POT  FRUIT: 

Advantages 127,  128,  129 


Cultural  Directions: 

When  to  Start  into  Growth — Temperature.  132 

Ventilation — Watering 133 

Spraying — Hand  Fertilization 134 

Feeding: 134.  135,  '37 

Diseases  and  Insect  Pests: 

Green  Fly 142 

Red  Spider— Leaf  Roller.  .  144 

.Mildew— Borer I4=i 

Houses  Suitable  for  Pot  Fruit 129 

Size — Style — Ventilation — Temperature 131 

Pinching  the  Shoots 1 38,  1 39 

Thinning  the  Fruit 139,  141 

Treatment  of  Trees  After  Fruit  is  Gathered 146 

Soil 147 

Repotting — Drainage 148 

Pruning 1 48.  1 40 

Varieties  Adapted  for  Orchardhouse  Work: 

Peaches  and  Nectarines 152 

Pears 1 52 

Plums I  53.  '  54 

Cherries 1 54 

Apricots 155,  156 

Figs 1 56 

Apples 156,157 

STRAWBERRIES: 

Crown,  Growing  the  '85 

Drainage 187 

Fertilizer 184 

Forcing,  Process  of '83 

Frost 188 

Fungus 189 

Gathering  the  Fruit '84 

Insects: 

Red  Spider— Green  Fly 188 

Potting '8; 

Runners,  Selecting  the '81,  182 

Soil 18;,  186 

Temperature '80,  183 

Varieties  for  Forcing .' '89.  '90 

Watering >84.  >87 


FRUITS  AND  VEGETABLES  UNDER  GLASS 


VEGETABLES   UNDER  GLASS 

ASPARAGUS:  Page 

Crowns,  Lifting  the 240 

Methods  of  Growing 241,  242 

Temperature 240 

BEANS: 

Feeding 246 

Insects  and  Diseases 247 

Soil 24  5 

Spraying 246 

Temperature 244,  245 

Varieties 247 

Ventilation 246 

BEETS 243,  244 

CARROTS 243 

CAULIFLOWER: 

Feeding 213,  21  5 

I  nsects 216 

Soil 213 

Sowing  the  Seed 215 

Spraying 213 

Transplanting 215 

Varieties 216 

Watering 215 

CHICORY: 

Feeding 249 

Soil    249 

Sowing  the  Seed 249 

Temperature 249 

CUCUMBERS: 

Diseases 230,  23 1 

Feeding 228 

House,  Size  and  Style 227 

Insects 230,  231 

Pruning 230 

Setting  the  Fruit 230 

Soil 227,  228 

Sowing  the  Seed 227 

Temperature 227,  228 

Training 230 

Varieties 231 

Ventilation 228 

Watering 228 

LETTUCE: 

Distance  to  Plant 208 

Feeding 209 

Insects  and  Diseases: 

Fungus 210 

Aphis 210,  21 1,  212 


SoiL 


.205 


Sowing 205 

Temperature 208 

Transplanting 207 

Varieties 212 

Ventilation 208,  209 

Watermt;  207,  209 


CLASSIFIED  INDEX  255 

MUSHROOMS:  Page 

Atmosphere 235 

Gathering , 235 

Location  Suitable  for  Growing 234 

Manure,  Desirable 234 

Temperature 236 

VNatering 235 

RADISHES: 

Fertilizer 217 

Gathering 218 

Soil 217 

Sowing  the  Seed 217,  218 

Varieties 218 

RHUBARB: 

Fertilizer 238 

Forcing,  Methods  of 237 

Freezing  and  Roots 238 

House,  Construction  of 237 

Temperature 237,  238 

Varieties 239 

Watering 238 

SEA  KALE: 

Feeding 248 

Root  Cuttings 249 

Soil ; ^248 

Sowing  the  Seed 248 

Temperature 248 

TOMATOES: 

Catch  Crop,  As  a 224 

Feeding 221 

House,  Suitable 220 

Insects  and  Fungous  Diseases: 

Tomato  Rust  or  Mildew 224 

Fruit  Rot — Clubroot — White  Fly 225 

Planting  and  Training 220 

Setting  the  Fruit 222,  223 

Soil 220 

Sowing  the  Seed 220 

Spring  Crop,  Preparations  for 224 

Temperature 22 1 ,  222 

Varieties 225 

Ventilation 221,  222 

Watering 221 


D.  H.   H'LL  LIBRARY 

North  Carol  o-  !;    -       College 


HOR  TICUL  TURAL    BOOKS 


CARNATION,  THE  AMERICAN 

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